We are at the Gateway of India in Mumbai(Bombay), the arch that was built in 1911 to commemorate King George V's visit to Bombay. It's right next to the luxurious Taj Mahal Palace Hotel which was completed in 1908.
Yet another site where stones speak
Just beside the Gateway is the pier from which to take a ferry to an island merely a half hour ride away from the hubbub of Mumbai. Almost everyone on the boat gets excited when sea gulls try to steal the snacks held out overhead enticingly as we glide on the sparkling Arabian sea.
A Layered history: What's in a name.
We alight at the jetty on the island only to find out we still have a long way to walk. It is a hot day. We choose to take the toy train for a small fee which takes us to the foothill of the Elephanta Caves. When the colonial Portuguese arrived centuries ago, they discovered massive stone elephant statues on the island and named it “Elefante,” which eventually evolved into “Elephanta.” The one colossal elephant statue that remains is now at Jijamata garden in Mumbai.
Leading up to a frozen past
Our ascent begins on the 130 steep steps that test our stamina. We are flanked by souvenir shops all along and therefore a relatively comfortable climb in the shade. We seem to be at the top in no time at all.
Dramatic entrance to cave number 1
The top most step puts us at the entrance to Cave number 1, also known as the Great Cave, hewn into the hill. Three porticos framed by 4 pillars lead us into a vast pillared hall. Six columns in each row divide the space into smaller chambers. Surprise! The roof is supported by concealed stone beams and capitals: a marvel of ancient engineering. Standing inside the cool stone hall, with filtered light entering through the pillars we can't help but feel the vibes of the past, of what was once an active place of worship. Every wall of the mandapa tells a story from Shaivite mythology.
Distinctive in diversity
Massive friezes — each more than 5 meters tall — depict legends with provocative intensity. In one Shiva is depicted as the cosmic dancer. In another he is the supreme yogi. Even though the carvings have weathered the expressions remain captivating.
A little further in is an unassuming linga sanctum sanctorum. Grace and simplicity, not grandiosity, are the characteristics of an intense religiosity.
Piece de Resistance
But nothing prepares us for the moment we stand before the Trimurti.
Carved from a single monolithic rock and standing 5.45 meters (17.9 feet) tall. The three-faced Shiva — known as Trimurti Sadashiva — dominates the south wall opposite the main entrance.
The sculpture represents creation, preservation, and destruction — the cosmic balance of existence. It is both serene and overwhelming. The calm central face radiates stillness, while the side faces embody contrasting aspects of Shiva’s nature.
According to Hindu belief, this destruction is not arbitrary, but constructive. Shiva is therefore seen as the source of both good and evil and is regarded as the one who combines many contradictory elements.
A fusion, or an acceptance of similarities and differences?
The caves were probably hewn between the 5th and 7th centuries. Even though the place of worship fell into oblivion, and the art work and carvings suffered damage, attempts by the British India officials, and then the Archaeological Survey of India have helped prevent further deterioration.
On the hill next to the temple is a stupa, remnants of a Buddhist shrine.
Like the Ajanta and ellora caves, the Elephanta Caves, though much smaller in scale, are combination of different forms of belief or practice
