Berth rights
The day before our arrival in Cape Town we have an unusual presentation at the Theatre that seats 800. We are to be briefed about immigration procedures at the upcoming port. What could be so complicated that it would require 45 mins to explain? It is all rather fishy and strange. Conspiracy theories abound. First we hear that we will not be docking at the passenger terminal for it was occupied! We have permission to dock at the container/cargo dock. A rather inconvenient proposition. It would be about a kilometre from the passenger terminal and most unsafe because of the heavy equipment operating there. Only the cruise terminal has immigration clearance facilities.
Mobility and red tape
Now, how can it be made more conducive to the mostly elderly passengers? With great effort from the ship's officers the port has agreed to supply shuttle buses between the docks. Each shuttle bus would make a 20 min trip inclusive of boarding and alighting time. The officers at the cruise terminal would need at least 4 hours to clear all 4000+ of us. How long can older folk wait in line? Solution:Get the immigration officers on board. One of the lounges will be prepared for them with seats and tables to place the necessary equipment. Passengers can line up in the comfort of the ship's corridors.
The air clears
Incredibly, it is announced later in the evening that the passenger pier is available. And that means as we get off the ship we will queue up at the cruise centre. The lines could be long and the waiting could be agonising. Besides, we haveo consider those who booked shore excursions. Then there are the independent travellers besides those who are disembarking. Those who have flights to catch risk missing their flights because of the delays. Priority goes to shore excursions. Next come the independent explorers who have to hope that the transport and guide they have booked will allow for the delay. The officers do their best to accommodate all their needs.
As it happened
We arrive in Cape Town in dense fog with 0 visibility. Only the lighthouse beam is visible. Fog horns are sounding frequently. The port is closed and so our pilot boat and tug boats are unavailable. Our ship idles for nearly an hour before the fog hesitantly and gradually lets up. The moment we can make out the sea the said boats arrive and guide us through a narrow passageway that requires meticulous navigating between jutting piers and docked container ships.
We couldn't have gotten into the breakwater without them. Instead of docking at 7:30 am we only do around 10:30, All well made plans could easily be thwarted. So, most of us stay put, having a relaxed breakfast, and then lunch, before it is announced that the priority guests have already been processed. We have ours processed at 2:00 pm.
The day is now quite sunny and bright. It's all looking up for us. The cloud over Table Mountain clears in the afternoon.
Weathering the weather
The next morning is rather cloudy and there's heavy rain to boot. We sit it out. It clears a little after 9:00 am and then the day is bright and shiny again. But table Mountain is covered in clouds and cable car rides have been cancelled.
At departure we see that the breakwater is agitated. We are experiencing strong winds that make maneuvering a ship in a narrow channel highly dangerous. Waves dash against the pier. We have to reverse and then turn into the channel into the open sea. The wind is so strong that besides the normal pilot boat and two tug boats we need a third one to help nudge us away from collisions with the other moored ships. Finally we are out in the open sea.
Do's and don'ts
We have been warned repeatedly about unsafe drinking water, advised to dress down to avoid being mugged, as well as to avoid lonely streets,and about capricious weather.
At least two more people on the streets, a well dressed and well spoken woman of Indian origin and a friendly traffic policeman have given us the same advice.
The Cape of Good hope: Something to celebrate and respect
There have been many other times when cruise ships have had to miss Cape Town mostly because of the fog and strong winds. The ship wrecks of explorers from past centuries caught in the cross currents of the Indian Ocean and the Atlantic while rounding the continent at Cape of Good Hope have tales of courage to tell.
