Intriguing immersions in Bali (June 2002)-- Part 4

Monotheists and polytheists living in harmony

From Lovina we criss crossed the island to an unpretentious village, in the outskirts of Manggis, and found a room to stay. The bathroom was shared with the family. We found out later, to our delight, that this village was unique since the upper caste Balinese and Muslim residents lived in perfect harmony. Our accommodation was one star but the hosts were very accommodating. We sat together for dinner. The next morning we went to the local market so I could purchase a greater variety of vegetables. Bringing them home, with my host's help in their kitchen, I put together a meal which we all shared.

Public bath

Walking about in the village in the evening we came across a public bath. All the houses in this village got their water from a spring in the hill ( we were at the foot hills of a dormant volcano, Batur)  behind the house accommodation. This public bath had spouts built into a wall at a reasonable height. Water channeled down 24/7 through several spouts.The baths were sectioned off, separating the women from the men. The women said they enjoyed the communal baths and shared the village gossip while scrubbing their clothes.

Dignity of Indigenous people 

Nearby was another village which, we found to our delight and surprise, has unique Bali Aga culture maintaining the original traditions, ceremonies and rules of ancient Balinese. The earthen-wall enclosed house compounds faced a broad avenue. Each compound was made up of multiple units of  self-contained houses belonging to an extended family. 

An elongated pavilion was where the village council discusses community affairs. On the day we visited women dressed in traditional white ( which reminded me of Kerala women)were preparing a feast in the raised pavilion which housed the community longhouse, running the length of the village. This community is also known for pandanus leaf fighting. These pandanus leaves have serrated edges and are used like swords.

In one of the houses we were treated to ikat dyeing (tie and dye) but with the yarn before weaving it into a fabric.

Ballet on the waves

From Tenganan we drove to wards Kuta. We were attracted by a huge impressive hotel along the way. Parking was free along any of the side roads and so we parked. The place was swarming with surfers, mostly locals. The beach was almost entirely made up of black sand, pebbles, and rough slabs and chunks of rocks – all volcanic. The beach is certainly not meant for walking. But it was most certainly a surfer's delight. This was Medewi beach.

We decided to stay the night here. Our room was sticky from all the salty air. We felt sand under our feet. We had noisy neighbours -- the stereotypical youthful surfers. A walk along the volcanic rock beach to enjoy the sunset and watch enthusiastic surfers ride the gigantic waves that curled in towards the shore took our minds off the discomforts. The surfers' performance was akin to a ballet performed, with the sky for a backdrop and waves for props, to the claps of admiration from fellow surfers on the shore.

Bollywood moment

Having experienced the touristy side of Bali, we drove off continuing towards Kuta. We discovered the Bat caves on the way. As soon as we got off the car we were surrounded by about 10 little girls trying to sell beaded accessories. They were interested in my tilak, the vermillion dot on my forehead, thanks to their exposure to Hindi movies. I had a packet in my tote bag. since we were nearing the end of our holiday in Bali, I would have plenty to spare and so we gave some out. Seeing what was happening a lot more girIs came running towards us and so we ended up giving out all the rest except a couple. You should have seen the delight on their faces already feeling like movie stars once they had the tilak on their foreheads. It was then that we could even begin to look at yet another of Bali 's important temples.

Bat(tling) the odour: Goa Lawah(Bat Cave)

Goa Lawah stands in the centre of a complex temple flanked by several other shrines . the temple standing between the mountain and the seas, is dedicated to Girinatha, protectore of the mountain, and Baruna, ruler of the sea. We were first met with two huge banyan trees. A little beyond was the cave's entrance. The strong smell of guano assaulted our noses preparing us for what to expect in the cave- thousands of bats hanging from the ceiling and nonchalant worshippers kneeling in prayer. It is said that the cave’s pathways lead all the way to Bali’s mother temple. Familiarly dragon motifs adorned the stunning shrines in the temple complex bordering the black sand beach.

Photo Op 

Driving towards Kuta we had an unexpectedly picturesque view of the famed Tanah Lot. Seeing it from atop a cliff was good enough, for we did not want to baked alive in the sandy beach.

We decided to retire in Kuta for the night. We found a chalet within a compound with many such chalets. From the ours we could walk across the grassy grounds onto the beach. The moment we sat on the beach there started a persistent parade of masseuse and vendors of all kinds selling beach towels, wraps, beaded accessories etc. The beach did not afford us much peace.

No surprise

We also drove around Kuta with its numerous shops, boutiques and high end bars, restaurants, brand names, - very popular with tourists. Best of all we found a restaurant selling Indian food. We had great North Indian cuisine prepared and served by an Indonesian chef. The conversation added value to our meal.

Traffic conductor in plain clothes

A quick drive took us to the newly built Monument of Vishnu mounted on Garuda, his vehicle. The cultural park was not yet open to the public. When we drove back to the villa, we were stuck in a massive traffic jam of mostly motorbikes. At the crucial turn towards the villa we waited for more than half an hour for the traffic to abate so I could make a safe right turn. It didn't seem as if it would happen. So Drink got out and stood in the middle of it all. He raised his hand to stop the traffic so I could inch the car into the turn. As usual Drink came to the rescue with a bold idea fit for a desperate moment.

Bombed

Hardly a month after our visit to the tourist centre it was bombed by terrorists.