Athens,Greece: further reaches

The overlooked: Persitiri

Spelt  Περιστέρι in Greek. It is fun reading out street names and others spelt out in Greek using the alphabets we use in Math and Physics.

We find this place by accident when we spy a stadium while on a local bus from Syntagma towards the north. Then a church that  looks like that in Monastiraki comes into view.  And that's when we decide to explore Peristeri, for that is what this suburb is called. It's Greek for pigeon-dove. 

The area lives up to its name. It is quiet and peaceful as we walk up to the indoor basketball arena named for Papandreou, a former Greek prime minister.

The street is like a shopping mall in any suburb with bakeries and souvenir  shops – everyday markets and family businesses– selling olive oil, herbs and soaps. The stroll takes us towards  the  cathedral– the metropolitan orthodox cathedral – with its large central dome, symmetrical bell towers, and a cream colored stone and marble facade typical of Athens. The arched windows and decorative brickwork reflect Byzantine influence. 

Had we entered the church at an appropriate hour we would have heard Byzantine chants.

The thrill of discovery.

We are actually in the central square and beside us is a glass dome. What could it house?  The landmark is the sky light of the metro station below. Again we have the urban and the ancient existing in aesthetic harmony.  The skylight allows sunlight to the station levels. We find that it will take us to Piraeus and therefore we do.

Olympic Stadium

On another trip to Athens — this time with the grandchildren — the Olympic Stadium was high on their bucket list. From Syntagma Square we boarded the train, excitement building with every stop, until the great arches of the Olympic Stadium rose before us.

With its sweeping roof suspended from two colossal arches the immense structure seems to float above the arena, yet it is engineered to withstand fierce winds and even powerful earthquakes.

And then came the detail that left us speechless: even the lawn can move.It is not rooted in the earth but grown in 6,000 interlocking plastic capsules spread across the stadium floor. Automated sprinklers rise  water the grass according to a programme. When space for another grand event is needed, the entire lawn can be rolled away outside the stadium, transforming the space as if by magic.

Everything about the stadium speaks of scale and imagination. The roof stretches across 25,000 square metres, weighs nearly 19,000 tons, and glows beneath thousands of translucent panels. Standing beneath those soaring arches, with the grandchildren staring upward in wonder, it felt less like visiting a stadium and more like stepping into a monument to human ambition.

Watched over

A bus ride through the main thoroughfares reveals more modern structures with Greek embellishments housing universities and government offices. Everywhere the Acropolis looms fully into view—not just  a distant landmark, but something that watches over modern Greece in silence.

Athens neighbourhoods

Unbeatable views 

From atop the Acropolis we get spectacular views, stretching to the Aegean sea, of the various neighbourhoods of Athens: the ancient Agora, Plaka, Monastiraki and Philippopolis Hill.

The magnet:Agora

Beneath the revered hill of the Acropolis lies the ancient Agora, all in ruins —quiet reminders of what was once a vast and intricate marketplace. Here stood an assembly of administrative buildings, temples, altars, shaded arcades, and fountains around an open square. It was here that ordinary citizens gathered to debate, shape policy, and cast votes on the laws that guided Athens.

The Agora was not just a center of commerce and governance. The city’s mint, where silver currency was struck, operated here. 

Opposite the Acropolis

Another direction presents to us a conspicuous monument that sits atop  Philippopolis hill close to the Agora. It was built for a most beloved  man, one of Athen’s most important benefactors.

It is believed that Socrates, the philosopher, was imprisoned in the rock-cut chambers on the slopes of this Hill .

Not so ‘Little Monastery’?

Yet another reveals Monastiraki with its unmistakable church domes.

Plaka placates

The entrance gate we took to the Acropolis( right beneath it) is in  Plaka, the oldest section of Athens. Close by are the temple of Zeus and Hadrian's Gate. The whole area, being pedestrians only, is rather quiet. It's hard to believe that once it was a nightclub district. Strictly enforced government rules successfully reduced the racket of loud music. Now there are plenty of souvenir shops and restaurants. Even though the area has become commercial, it retains a quiet charm.

 Anafiotika: a secret island of defiance

As we climb, the air cools and the city noise tapers into a distant murmur. Whitewashed houses are squeezed together, their walls cracked with age, their paths uneven underfoot. Bougainvillea pours over in bright cascades over rooftops and balconies. The passages narrow into a disorienting maze. Have we wondered too far? Then, a dead end—and suddenly, it’s there. The Acropolis, the ‘high city’ rises above us.

Legend says Anafiotika was built in the 19th century by stone masons from the island of Anafi, who came to Athens to work and secretly constructed their homes at night, defying authority. Stone by stone, they recreated a fragment of their island life—hidden, resilient, and enduring.

Syntagma Square marches on with pom poms

We walk from Plaka to Syntagma Square, which lies at the heart of Athens, as the old Royal Palace—now the Greek Parliament – does. We see soldiers on guard and sense that something is going to happen as the crowd slowly swells. 

We are in for a treat. The guards, the Evzones,are moving! Within minutes a spectacular show takes place just a few feet away. The ritual of changing the guards takes place with meticulously choreographed  moves  synced to the marching band.

Their feet are clad in clogs topped with black pom poms,  Once they concealed blades!. Feet are raised high. When they descend with a cracking sound  the ground vibrates while the pom- poms sway every which way!

The rhythm continues to haunt us as we amble through the rest of the square in which parades and celebrations are held. It bustles with life. Behind the tomb is a garden, an oasis in the middle of a bustling area, which has an interesting story behind it.The event marked a turning point in history that made Greece what it is today.               

Monastiraki: tourist hot spot 

Yet another square that appealed to us from atop the Acropolis for its  flat domed building. We are surrounded by eager tourists, patrons of the flea market, roof top restaurants and cafes. The old meets the new. Not only are we treated to views of the Acropolis but also landmarks from the various eras viz Byzantine (Pantanassa Church),  Ottoman( Tzistarakis Mosque) and Roman(Hadrian’s Library).  

We pass by a hat shop that draws the attention of the grandchildren. We quietly steer them away so we have time to see the Olympic Stadium on their bucket list.             

Watch Switch: Changing of the guards

Yet another miss: Changing of the Guards, London  

4 times in London, espcially at St James Park, yet not a single view of the world famous Changing of the Guards at the adjacent Buckingham Palace. Most of the time we are busy loitering the streets of London steeped in history and then leisurely walking through the serene gardens when we tend to lose all sense of time. When we hear the Military Band along the Mall we already know it is too late for the show since we will not be able to see beyond he crowd. But the last time we visited London in 2019, the trip where we got lost (see Ditched by a london taxi), we had wet days. The day we are at St James Park the rain has let up. This time we are definitely going to watch the parade. We are hopeful that the drizzle would not hamper the event. I thought we were cutting close to the start of the event and that it would be a struggle to work through the inevitable crowd. Unbelieveably there are only a handful of would-be spectators hanging around. We are very lucky indeed. It has stopped raining. Expectantly we wait, and wait, and wait. Nothing is happening. A few officials are  walking to and fro sharing a few words, like ants meeting on their expeditions to exchange information. Show cancelled because of rain? Time to whip out the camera and zoom in on a black board close to the wall of the Palace. Confirmed. Well the smart ones probaly checked the website and knew that there isn't going to be a parade this day.  Well, we tried! 

Hard to Miss: Changing of the Guards, Stockholm

The first time we were in Stokholm was in the summer of 2014. Our grandchildren were travelling with us. After traversing the city centre by metro, bus, and foot we stroll through Gamla Stan, the Old Quarters of the city. After taking a look at the entrance to the Palace, we have just left the huge square in front of it. Its about noon and the young ones are begining to be restless when they suddenly perk up. There's a band playing music that gets the feet tapping. Our heads turn this way and that finally setttling on a Cavalry band that is making its way towards the Palace. We are in awe of the bright blue uniforms astride chestnut coloured  horses that lead the Procession. They play popular songs. After all Sweden is the land of ABBA. They are followed by foot soldiers, guards, from another direction. Mounted police make sure the parade route is clear of traffic and pedestrians.  The whole parade seems convivial without compromising precision and ceremony. The entire routine of 45 mins is delightfully entertaining.

Sweden is not only about Nobel, IKEA and ABBA,  but also rejoicing in ceremony. Is it any wonder that it is one of the world's happiest countries?

 

Not deterred by rain: Amalienborg, Copenhagen

Copenhagen is a very walkable city. We often start at the Central Railway Station and then walk towards The Little Mermaid. On the way we pass the Palace, the Cathedral, the Parks etc. In 2015, when our grandchildren travelled with us, we have a drizzle.  The trees at Nyhaven provide scant shelter. Might as well brave it and walk towards Amalienborg Palace, the royal residence.   Not much shelter there either accept under the arches connecting the four similar buildings that form the square in the middle. Normally it is devoid of people except for those who opt to visit the palace museum. Today, just as we approach one of the arches we hear marching , and there we are having exclusive views of the changing of the Guards. The Danish Royal Guards march from Rosenborg Castle, well known for its gardens, to Amalienborg Palace.The blue and black uniforms stand out. There is a band since the Queen is in residence, this being her winter abode. There is no fancy footwork. A far cry from London or Stockholm, indeed. At least, the normally quiet square was enlivened for a few minutes, with tourists, music and ceremony.

Stiff, formal Monaco makes up with views

Monaco's Palace, in use for 7 centuries (no newer palaces built because of land scarcity), sits atop a hill. We usually climb up the side of the  hill, walk through a garage, take an elevator to a higher level and then walk through the Princess Grace Gardens and Oceonagraphic centre before we reach the Palace. Just before 12 noon the roads are closed off so the square before the Palace is clear. The guards are in white. It seems they are dressed in black during the winter months. It is a very short drill, but ceremonious neverthless. It may not be exciting but the fantastic views of the harbour all around us more than makes up for the lack of oomph. It's not reasonable to expect grandiose performances of such a small area.

Athens: Pom-pom Pomp steeped in history

The first time we found ourselves in Syntagma Square only because the park had a bench under a shady tree where we could enjoy our sandwiches. When we look up from our mouthfuls we see strangely clad men marching with their feet swinging high with the pom-poms on their feet jiggling. Curious, we walk closer to find out what it is all about. We are actually at the Tomb of the Unknown soldier and the changing of the Guards has just ended. On our next visit, our grandchildren accompany us. They would certainly get a thrill out of this. And so, as soon as we finish our visit to the Acropolis, we head towards Syntagma Square just in time for the ceremony. It is actually below the Greek Parliament  and Presidential Mansion. 

The guards, called the Evzones, march in from the barracks behind the parliament to the accompaniment of a band. Apparently the sentry changes every hour, while the grand ceremony only takes place on Sundays. The distinction here is that the sentries do a slow march, perhaps to facilitate the return of blood circulation, having stood motionless for an hour. 

Their uniform, made up of twelve parts, is also unique -- handmade, intricately detailed:

▪︎soft red cap with a silk tassel, 

▪︎dark hand embroidered wool waist coat, 

▪︎wide sleeved white shirt, 

▪︎a kilt like garment made of 30 m of fabric with 40 pleats, 

▪︎3 kg white shoes (with at lease 60 nails on the sole), hand stitched, pointed upward, covered with huge black silk pom pom, 

▪︎woollen stockings, silk garters with tassels, 

▪︎a gun that weighs over 5 kg. 

It is easy to become dishevelled with all the tassels, pom-poms and loose clothes as they march or as the wind blows. That is taken care of by off duty guards who quickly do the 'touch up', adjusting the wayward pieces.

What happpens if the sentry on duty who does not move at all has a problem? That's where the gun is extremely useful. A heavy tap on the ground summons an off duty guard who verbalises possible problems to which the answers are made with blinks. Go figure the unique codes!  

There is a whole lot of history in the spectacle. Imagine the hours needed to put on the various layers of clothing and training to march in a unique style. Something to marvel at, indeed.

 Drum struck in Seoul

Fooled

From Incheon, our cruise port,  we take a local bus to Seoul and then walk the arterial road that leads us straight to the Grand Palace aka Gyeongbokgung Palace,.

As we approach the huge gate we see women dressed in Korean costume, the hanbok. Wondering if it is a special cultural event I approach a giggling young lady with my question. She doesn't speak English. I try another young woman. She said the hotel lent it to them for the day. Others had rented their costumes and these women were all foreign tourists, mostly from China. I later learnt that if you were dressed in a hanbok entry to the Palace was free! A great disappointment indeed that I was easily fooled! 

A Chinese boy, a tourist, took a liking to Drink nd happily posed for a photograph.

Appeased

The huge palace grounds accommodating the architecturally beautiful pavilions and pagodas, topped with Korean black tiles, set in scenic gardens, courtyards with cherry blossoms beside ponds, all against picturesque mountains in the background, easily took us an hour of walking. Just as we are about to find a place to rest our legs we hear drums and notice a crowd near the main gate.

Enraptured

As we approach gate, we see the  crowd  swelling and we also notice men in bright blue, red, green and yellow  traditional costumes bearing spears and swords.  There's excitement and anticipation in the air. We hear the band playing traditional music - drums, double reed oboe and the gong. The palace guards march towards the gate in precise formation that involves intricate movements and rituals syncing with beating drums and bellowing. Keys are then symbolically exchanged between the commanders of the outgoing and incoming guards. They have just reenacted  the historical changing of the Royal guards! All of 40 mins.

As we walk towards the city centre we have a glimpse of another enactment  at Deoksugung Palace replete with traditional musical instruments, and exchange of a password for verification followed by  guard ceremony . The palace doors then close.

Whether colourful or not, whether small or big, the changing of the guards is charged with music, precision, history and does suffuse awe!