Ohrid,Macedonia: A crazy history!

Full of promise

A heavy complimentary breakfast at Tirana has prepared us for a 2 1/2 hour journey to Ohrid, North Macedonia. I'm a little excited about Macedonia because of its association with Alexander the Great. 

The winding, undulating route keeps my eyes peeled on the stunning landscape dotted with villages, interspersed with furrows of flowering plants, vegetables, and the conical haystacks topped with a knot.  We are surrounded by mountains cradling villages in its folds. Most of the way a river rushes along our side, pouring over weirs. And then there are tall bridges straddling hills. They support old railway tracks. Plus there are tunnels. 

Unpretentious mosques stand out simply because of their minarets.  Along the way we stop for a toilet break. We are surrounded by flowers..

Border checkpoint with a ‘tip’

Our tour leader has warned us that a 2 to 3 hour addition to our journey might be inevitable. It depends on the number of vehicles at the crossing. Sometimes officers would require that every bus passenger alight and meet an officer face to face. At other times the passports are collected by the driver who then passes them on to the officer. God forbid that an Albanian bus is ahead of us. It gets a thorough check which may take up to an hour for each bus.

We are lucky. Our driver hands over some bottled water to the concerned person and we are off in about 30 mins. 

Well fed lake extraordinaire 

Almost within an hour we are in Ohrid, the lake for which it is named and of which we have had tantalizing blue glimpses along our route. The lake shimmering in the heat has more than meets the eye with respect to nature and  culture. 

It shares the shoreline with Albania, its neighbouring country, on whose side is the town called Progdac. Over there are the springs of Drilon, one of the sources that feed the lake.  Modest tributaries fill it in from the north. Hear this! It is mainly fed by underground streams in the east which trickle through from  Lake Prespa 10 km away and at a higher altitude. 

We are not done yet! The water at the surface of Lake Ohrid moves mostly in a counter-clockwise direction along the shore. Why? The force of the  wind and the rotation of the Earth.

Here's more. It is one of Europe's deepest and oldest lakes, with a unique aquatic ecosystem, with more than 200 endemic species.

Unearthing the city on the slopes

Our local guide tells us that our tour of the old quarters begins with some gradual steps and slightly steeper slopes nearer the top. We brace ourselves for the hike. As we step into the old world we are confronted by a well preserved massive stone tower at Lower Gate. It is part of Samuel's Fortress. We step onto an iron grid over a cellar like depression. Apparently, in ancient and medieval times, before visitors could enter the gates they had to ‘ditch’ all they were carrying into the trench, to be reprieved later. Reason: to prevent contamination and to protect denizens from spreadable diseases. The entrants were also quarantined. 

It is easy to get lost in the labyrinthine alleys, charming narrow cobblestoned or flagstone streets lined with cafes, artisan shops (including a workshop that taught old fashioned paper making), stone walls, tiled roofs, etc. 

It gets a little steeper as we ascend. History has it that when the Turks came to Ohrid, they restricted the town’s Christian population to the walled area which enclosed the steep slopes of the city. That is why  parts of the town feel a little claustrophobic, with tall houses towering over narrow alleyways, throwing shadows.

It is also the reason why all the churches are found in this part of town.  

Architectural elements

We walk by  the Robev Family House, built in the 1900s, a significant example of a traditional Ottoman Turkish house and therefore an architecturally important cultural monument. It is now an Archaeological Museum, 

Blame it on constraints

Looking above in the narrow streets we see distinctive Ohrid architecture.  Each upper storey protrudes over the lower to add to the living area as the family expands  over the generations. The bottom floor is stone while the upper floors are constructed of wood. Wall niches and wood carved ornaments decorate the ceilings. 

Strict rebuilding codes

Do you want to own a house here? You are bound by law to adhere to traditional styles, and use appropriate material consistent with the historical context. Most importantly if renovation uncovers artefacts you may not be allowed to build over it!

‘Jerusalem of the Balkans’: spiritual hub

As we climb further we see crosses over the rooftops of small humble buildings. We pass by the Church of the Virgin Mary, which is one of the 365 ( one a day for the whole year)mostly tiny churches said to be in the town. Ohrid was after all a spiritual hub in the Macedonian region. Nobody's counting now.

Similar to Hagia Sophia in Istanbul

We do stop at the Church of Saint Sophia which has an old world charm. Built in the 9th century it is of Byzantine architecture with frescoes when it served as a Cathedral. Later it was transformed into a mosque. The frescoes are covered with lime. After World War 2, restoration uncovered the frescoes that are regarded as the finest examples of medieval art in the Balkans.

Hellenic: even more ancient.

We are almost at the top of the hill. From the base of a steep incline we catch sight of an amphitheatre surrounded by two hills. This was discovered when the land was to be used for building homes. Excavation for the foundation revealed parts of the theatre. Thanks to the strict rules no buildings were allowed over it. Instead the whole theater was excavated. Probably built around the 2nd century the theatre includes a stage in the middle. The acoustics would have been fantastic since the stage was protected from the winds by the two hills. The theater had also been used for gladiator flights.

Buried for a grisly reason

The theatre was where the Romans  executed the Christians. Naturally the site was highly disliked by the local residents.  Subsequently it was abandoned and buried.

Panting up to a breathtaking view

The gravel road along the theatre leads to stairs above which is a newer residential area. In the distance, just above the rows of houses is a hill that flies a huge flag. This marks Samuel's Fortress.  We are too limp to climb up even further for the fantastic views of the lake and the Church of Saint John at Kaneo, a picturesque gem perched on a cliff overlooking the azure waters of Lake Ohrid. Dating back to the 13th century, this small yet magnificent church is famed for its remarkable frescoes.  

There are pearls and then there are pearls!

I've heard of and seen Japanese pearls, Hyderabad pearls, cultured pearls, black pearls and pink pearls. Add another to the list: the Ohrid pearl which is not at all like a regular pearl. These are made from balls of powdered shells. Then they are covered layers of an emulsion made of fish( only found in ohrid) scales. The emulsion creates the rich colours and the shine. The exact process is a secret known only to two people.

This is a Bazaar?

All that is left for us to do is to explore the bazaar, more accurately a street paved with cobblestones and bits of marble lined with souvenir shops, especially for Ohrid's unique pearls. We think it is better to have some cash on hand especially if we found a bargain. We have been told that neither the USD nor the Euro will be accepted here. Most shops do not have the means to process credit cards. And this is true of most of the Balkan countries. A cheerful man at a booth does the exchange to Macedonian Denar over the counter in a matter of mins.

The elegant pearls stand out.they are tempting. I walk in and out of several,  find a few I like. But the price tags, even if they are reasonable, prevent me from buying any from the practical aspect.

‘Enlightenment’

We decide to go for ice cream in a cup for it is a scorching day and our dinner is an hour away. We find a tree just in front of the mosque and sit in its shade. Turkish ice cream is heavenly. The mosque with a prominent dome, elegant minarets, intricate carvings, and vibrant mosaics within and without is none other than the historic Ali Pasha Mosque. Besides  being considered the largest mosque in Ohrid it is also  a significant religious monument signifying the period of Ottoman rule. 

And.. we are sitting under a 900 year old plane tree also called the cinar tree.

Grilled trout

We meet members of our group at a lakeside restaurant at the stipulated time. Our dinner is fantastic except for the dessert which looked like a cheese cake which had more cake than cheese. The grilled trout served with a squeeze of lemon, roasted potatoes and fresh vegetables helped cap the day very well indeed. 

A panorama

Our hotel for the night is in a quiet part of town about 20 mins away from the old town. The rooms are not great but it is on the shores of the lake. The clear waters, the waves creating plumes across the rocks. Ohrid neatly tucked away on the hills far away made for a beautiful setting. I was able to catch the vibrant sun set against the hills in the distance.

Before an excellent breakfast the next day we decide to explore the vicinity. To our delight we found a park with a broad route for joggers and cyclists. The lone cypress tree at the hotel stood like a sentinel. The previous day we had walked in the central park, filled with rose bushes and shade trees, along the shores 

Trivia

The town is a UNESCO World Heritage due to its exceptional cultural and natural significance. 

This fortress used to be the capital of the First Bulgarian Empire back in the 11th century. Yes, Bulgarian. Leave it to the locals to fight it out.

North Macedonia was part of Yugoslavia and only got its independence in the early 90s.

Russian script on the signboards! No, no, says the Macedonian. It was Bulgarian before it became Russian!

Ephesus, Turkey: to go or not to go

Tolerance Test at Kusadasi, Turkey.

A cruise port on our Mediterranean cruise happens to be Kusadesi. We have decided not to book a shore excursion to Ephesus, for as always a sizable portion of the time available would be taken up by the distance to travel to and fro. Besides, in our experience, the port of call would probably have more to be discovered and enjoyed at a leisurely pace. And so, we go down the gangway to be engulfed in a sea of cruisers from another liner. They are all young and enthusiastic, eagerly forming groups to hire private transport and thus share the cost. Quite quickly the groups evaporate. A small group is left still undecided. It looks as though it needs more to form a group. So Drink suggests we ask them if we could  join them. We believe we got a rude rebuff. For one thing they are all spritely caucasian Italians, from a celebrity cruise line, speaking animatedly in their own language. Here we are two older Asian adults who do not speak or understand a word of Italian. Perhaps we didn't even communicate. Even our facial expressions may not have registered.

Ego and enterprise seal a wonderful deal

Shouldn't the situation be pathetic? No way! Competition makes us more resolute. We should ask if anybody else would share a cab with us. And, as luck would have it, two couples toting professional cameras make their way down the gangway and into our entreating approach. That is a stroke of serendipity for they are well read, articulate and outgoing. Going to the museum afterwards in their erudite company is invigorating.

On our next trip to Ephesus we have our grandchildren with us. The men at the carpet shop are eager to talk to the young explorers. But it gets a little too cloying and so we find shelter at the tourist agent's office. We book with them, sit around for a while. The boys practically jump up to board the van as soon as our lady guide appears. They are more interested in the ride than inTurkish friendship, for now.

The Roman Capital of Asia Minor: an astounding synthesis of cultures

We drive through Selçuk district, towards Ephesus. We pass by a ruin and two distinct buildings. In the foreground is one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World: the Hellenistic Temple of Artemis (the many-breasted "Lady of Ephesus"). Only one column remains. Just behind it is the İsa Bey Mosque built during the Seljuk period ( Turco-persian-sunni Muslim).  In the background is the Seljuk Castle built during the Ottoman period. To think that we had seen it all in Istanbul/Constantinople, or even in Jerusalem, would be an overstatement. Add to this Classical, Hellenic, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and Christian. What a history, what a culture!

A Theatrical entry

As we enter Ephesus our attention turns to the lonely pear tree laden with fruit. A vestige or a stray? Our eyes are drawn towards the vast area of broken toppled stone pillars and slabs, then sweep upwards to the remains of the Odeon, an astonishingly large amphitheater, in fact, the largest in the Roman Empire. In its heyday it is said to have hosted 24,000 spectators. 

Right on the top, just behind the bleachers is the Fountain House that gave free access to water for the denizens of the city. Point to note: it was not controlled by aristocrats. An egalitarian society, indeed.

As the eyes turn back and downward, they settle on the broad, rutted, columned Harbour street. The road actually led to a harbour at the river mouth. Trade prospered. But the ravishes of natural phenomena silted the approaches so much that the port/commercial centre declined. It is easy to imagine how vibrant and prosperous the city would have been. 

A trove for the thirsty mind

An imposing two-storeyed facade towers ahead of us. It is the reconstructed Library of Celcius. Apparently, the facade was designed to make the building look imposingly enormous. When Ephesus flourished the building  housed 12,000 scrolls. The building faces East so that the reading rooms are flooded with the morning light. Notably, Celsius paid for it from his own pocket while his son built it. It is no wonder then that the sarcophagus of Celcius is buried beneath it.

It seems fitting that Ptolemy, the man who created the model of the universe with earth at its centre, was born and raised in Ephesus

Grand monuments: Symbols, mythological figures and heroes

As we walk,towards the terrace along the path that Antony and Cleopatra would have taken during their winter sojourns we get a sense of how well developed the city had been. 

A vestige of a pillar has the apothecary symbol carved on it. It is a chalice, the symbol of Hygieia, the goddess of health. This cup has a snake twining around it. The twining snake was the symbol of her father, Asclepius, god of medicine. She is partly credited with the Hippocratic Oath. In all probability the stump is a reminder of some kind of an infirmary at that spot.

Then there is the Memmius monument in Domitian square to commemorate a decorated soldier. The sculpted figures are realistically portrayed. Nearby is Nike, the goddess who personifies victory. And then at the Hadrian Temple is the Hercules (strong and courageous) Gate. Add to that the Gate of Augustus!

Evidence of a populous city buzzing with life.

The Trajan Fountain with beautiful sculptures tells of luxurious bath complexes. The row of toilet seats that had running water swishing through made it convenient for people sitting next to each other to share secrets, gossip, schemes etc. Little nooks,corners and tunnels speak of brothels and bars.

Stupendous in all respects: terrace houses

There appears a slope that seems like it is a cross-section of a hill. Brick arcs, pillars and walls are exposed. The excavation that exposed and tried to restore the rest of the city is still going on here. Now the terraced house complex is slowly and meticulously being Uncovered and restored bit by bit, shard, by shard. The grand mosaics are being fitted like a jigsaw puzzle. The frescoes are being painstakingly Uncovered and restored. Gladiators, floral motifs and Roman gods adorn the walls. The houses are multi-leveled and include even  fireplaces. The grandeur, the opulence and the amenities reflect how the wealthy lived.

A work in progress

After the city was abandoned (in the 15th century), people moving to higher ground on the surrounding hills, the marble sculptures had been ground to powder to make lime for plaster. The ruins of the temples became building blocks for new abodes. Some of the artifacts either in the original form, restored or recreated helped complete the experience of having traveled back in time.

Observing the work being done by the archaeologists we can't help but admire their patience, dedication and mental acuity to want to revive a glorious past that can evoke a country's sense of pride.

A Catholic pilgrimage

Many of our fellow cruisers also made a pilgrimage stop. A few miles from Selçuk is  TheHouse of the Virgin Mary. It is said that this was her last home before her assumption into heaven.