City of lights: Paris 2014 (day 2)

 Whitest Church we've ever seen

Early on Day 2 in Paris the Metro takes us to the Basilica of Sacré Cœur de Montmartre (Sacred Heart of Montmartre). Its dome is two hundred meters above the Seine overlooking all of Paris and its suburbs. Apparently it is the second most popular tourist destination in the capital after the Eiffel Tower. Walking the porch of the church takes us through the several bays built in the  Romano-Byzantine style.Amazingly this basilica remains perpetually white seemingly untainted by the weather. The secret lies in the type of limestone used in the building. It is an extremely hard stone with a fine grain that exudes calcite on contact with rainwater, making it exceptionally white.

The familiar and the unexpected

One curiosity was the meditative fountain. The not so curious was the quotidian beggar.

Cameras are forbidden which is just as well since the inside is dimly lit giving a mystical aura to the glasswork and mosaics. 

We join the people sitting along the sloping lawns soaking in the atmosphere afforded by the 2nd most popular tourist attraction in Paris.

Useful keepsake 

A short walk after that stops us at a souvenir shop that sells a tempting array of  berets. We get three of them and the males cover their pates with the soft round hats symbolic of French culture.

Wander to  discover: history infusion

Our preferred way of  exploring the city without a plan is very ideal for Paris for even though it feels like a city it is surprisingly small. A walk near the Tuileries Garden takes us to a prominent sight in the Parisian landscape thanks to its famous gilded Dome. Hotel de ville ( city hall) is known not only for royal celebrations of marriages and births but also for executions.

We were not aware that the Tomb of Napoleon I was in the vicinity. 

In the distance is the 150 year old Palais Garnier, the stunningly opulent and majestic legendary theatre.

Exploration gives the grandchildren a taste of the history and culture surrounding them as in discovering ( rather than identifying) something, like the 381  mascarons (masks) along pont Neuf. Crossing it we come by Daphne Place, a triangular square with a row of houses across from the base of the triangle  of which only two retain their original appearance. 

An architecturally  beautiful building with red brick outlines and an eye-catching bas relief is Carrefour  Curie. The next marvel is the hallowed Military School and the large shallow pool along the Champs de Mars into which children, adults and dogs casually dip their feet and little paper boats float with abandon.The Champ-de-Mars, which originally served as the school’s parade ground leads us up to the Eiffel Tower.  

Inside the laced steel 

Now we are at the base of the Eiffel tower. Should we get the tickets to take the elevator up to the viewing platform? The queue seems long and stationary. We decide to sit on the lawn which is quickly becoming  crowded. The queue seems to have moved a little. The grandchildren and I decide to take our chances. We join the line. To our delight the line is moving faster now. We have got our tickets. But the wait seems to be forever. There is no turning back now. Might as well marvel at the jumble of steel that insanely makes the tower built for a Expo the most popular tourist attraction in Paris. We understand why the wait is long. The viewing platform, for safety's sake,can only handle a certain number of visitors at a time. The number of visitors leaving the platform will decide how many from the line can go up in the next batch! 

Going up in a glass walled elevator gives us glimpses of Paris between the gaps in wrought iron lattice that makes up the light airy and strong tower. 

Appreciation of the beautiful whether day or night

We are at the top. It's about 9: 30 pm. A glorious sunset is awaiting us. In the interim we are treated to great views of all the places we'll have to miss on this trip.  We spy L’Arc de Triomphe and the boutique strip that goes all the way to Pariss largest square, Place de la Concorde. Then we get a quick look at the 60 lush acres that make up the  Luxembourg gardens and the palace in the distance. In another direction appears Place du Trocadéro, where the Palais de Chaillot,a complex  used for three museums and one theatre, stands. In about 30 minutes we have had a superb view of the city. The sun sets at 10pm and we reluctantly leave for the ground. 

Drink is handing me a single long rose stem! It's never happened before. I had earlier seen peddlers selling them for what I thought was a prohibitive price. This is Paris, a City of Love,  after all. I had also seen some discarded rose stems. But, I was going to give him the benefit of the doubt and accepted the gesture in good humour.

Can't complain

All through the evening we've been hearing all kinds of music at different venues. And then there were the roses. Was it an everyday thing! Surprise,surprise! This, the 21st of June 2014,  is the longest day of the year. The Summer solstice  is celebrated with the Festival of Music. I've read that every block hosts parties and great performances all completely free to the publ8c. We have been feted by the city – be completely free to the public! The first festival in Paris was such a huge success, that today, the concept has been exported throughout France and to over 100 countries around the world! Well done Monsieur Lang!For the last 43 years in France, the 21st June is not just the longest day of the year but also the day of the fête de la musique

Scenic city on the Seine: Paris (2014) Day 1

 Voilà! Paris, we are here

Driving down from Brussels, Belgium, we arrive late having got caught in the traffic jam near Charles de Gaulle Airport. We missed the agent by more than an hour at the building where our AirBnb apt is. We have no clue as to where to park our rental vehicle. All the lots along our road are taken. Being a one way street the driver had to go all the way around the building

Which meant going into mainstream traffic and then trying to maneuver several lanes so as not to miss the turn into our area. It takes nearly 30 mins. Meanwhile the older grandson spots a car pulling out and he immediately makes his way to the empty space and stands there to stake a claim! As luck would have it we meet a young woman walking into the building who kindly calls our agent. After what seems like ages he turns up and cheerfully passes on the keys for the particular apartment. It happens to be on the ground floor. Raising the shutters we are heartened to see that the windows favourably open out to the very road on which we have parked. We find it easier to pass our bags in through the wide open windows than to keep repeatedly opening three consecutive doors to enter the apt.

A pricey historical neighbourhood once a swamp

It is late evening. People are walking about probably returning from work or going about their evening  activities. Most of the pedestrians we see are obviously Jewish: side-curled and skull-capped males in suits,females in modest skirts and blouses with some sporting headscarves. No wonder since France has the world's 3rd biggest Jewish population.

This stylish and chic area is called Le Marais (the “Swamp”).  It is the place where Jews found refuge during the Middle Ages. The aristocratic residences they built have since been divided into small apartments. It transpires that we are occupying one of the most expensive real estates in the world!

We are not sure about the parking rules in the vicinity. Rather than take a chance we find a garage a few minutes away. We can sleep well knowing that the car is legally parked.

It is a pity that we have only two whole days in Paris. We will have to miss out on ambling through this most popular neighbourhood. Hunger leads us to a boulangerie where we have a pick of Parisian patisseries for dinner.

Wallet weary

We are close to many iconic Parisian landmarks.

The next morning we walk to the main thoroughfare and thence to the Metro. Our plan is to get a 3 day ticket each. Drink pulls out his wallet to slide out a few Euros. The agent at the ticket counter agitatedly asks him to put the wallet away immediately and to keep a close eye on it. He is warning us about the frequent pick pocketing incidents on the Metro of which we have heard much about. We should literally hold on tight to our wallets. 

The word metro now used in 55 countries is a derivative of Metropolitan ( Greek ‘mother city’)

Stepping back in time

The Metro is very affordable and  convenient once we get used to the individual metro maps. It is surprising how the old underground  metro stations continue to function without modern amenities like elevators. The beautiful old stations from the 1900s still work flawlessly. Young parents deftly pick up perambulators and climb up the stairs. Older folk carry heavy luggage up the stairs. Sinewed and resolute indeed.

Grand old Notre Dame ( Our lady of Paris)

Only a short train ride away and still in the Jewish quarter. Walking along the Seine we spy two islands,Ile de la Cité and Ile Saint-Louis, and the unmistakable steeple and Bell towers of the ubiquitous Notre Dame on the former. Trudging along the Pont Neuf( New Bridge) we join the crowds waiting in line to enter the building. Had we entered I would have seen first hand what inspired Victor Hugo’s The Hunchback of Notre Dame. We opted to spend time gazing at the 12 century Gothic architecture,  intricate statuary, the facade (particularly the details of The Last Judgement on the  central portal) the bell towers, the stained glass rose windows and the flying buttresses.

Bloody history of a chic neighbourhood 

This island, the birthplace of Paris, also bears the Gothic Sainte-Chapelle, and the site of the prison where Marie Antoinette was held before being beheaded for treason. “If you are out of bread eat cake instead”, she said to the poor multitudes. It would have been gracious had she offered the cake.That's how disconnected the last queen of France was with her subjects. Is it any wonder that the frivolous queen fell out of favour?

Yet another of the multitude of bridges, old and new, connects this island with the other. A quick walk reveals its bucolic nature. 

Another grand dame

Wandering along the river bank we find ourselves in a large, sunny,beautiful square. The fountains burble and tinkle adding to the majesty of the building they grace. It is the famed Hotel de Ville, the town hall that characterises  Parisian history and culture in all its grandeur through its Renaissance facade.

Bastille Battle Cry: "Liberty, Equality, Fraternity.”

We now board a bus that should take us to the historical fortress. The aristocratic and vibrant Jewish quarter has been left behind. This is the working class district, the setting for the rebellion by Parisians who stormed the heavy wooden gates of the fortress to show their anger towards the despotic monarchy and dire economic conditions. The battle cry was said to be"Liberty, Equality, Fraternity, or Death.” The last word was removed to soften the implications of excessive violence.

But where is the royal fortress that also housed the prison?

The only evidence we have at the historic site is the July Column topped by Génie de la Liberté (the spirit of freedom). The square is surrounded by galleries, some under renovation.  The only remnants have become paving stones in the square and underground metro platforms. Today the Place de la Bastille is populated by zebra striped cylindrical concrete perches. We are told that the nearly empty square transforms into a bustling nightlife spot. 

Provocative vicinity: off the beaten path

We are in reality right behind the Palais Royal where the famed Louvre is. There is hardly anyone in the gardens surrounding it. We are away from all the hustle and bustle strolling through manicured gardens and gurgling fountains that are practically devoid of visitors.

Then a row of houses with their ubiquitous chimneys visible above the tall hedges call for attention. The story is that just before the French Revolution the Palace passed on to the Duke of Orleans. The womaniser quickly ran out of cash. Hence he built blocks of rental apartments, with shops on the ground floor, around three sides of the Royal Gardens. He also connected the gardens to the Opera House. Astute indeed!

Latin quarter: Pizza a la France?!

Our grandsons have decided on Pizza for lunch. The 9 year old decides to use his Google Maps to find us one. We will find one in the Latin Quarter, of course. None of the others in our family group has a smartphone, and this is the year 2015! He leads. The route takes us to the left bank of the Seine, over one of the modern bridges, through cobbled alleyways, narrow streets, and historic architecture. After some doubtful turns and frequent technical hiccups we arrive only to find the restaurant closed for renovations. Not one to give up, with a little  more fumbling he finds a Café that serves Pizza. The prim waiter, with a towel folded over his arm, takes our orders. He is a little taken aback that we do not order water or soda. For the first time in our life, perhaps also the last, we dig into pizza with forks and knives.

Well, we had a meal in a Parisian Cafe, not Al Fresco, and managed to befuddle the waiter.

That we are in the vicinity of the Sorbonne makes no difference to the young ones.

Louvre: a treasure trove

And then we are ready to take on one of the world's oldest and largest museums with exhibits from around the world. The metro entrance  from which we emerge is an unmistakable clue that we are at the Louvre. It is a Fairy tale-like structure that looks like a domed carriage made of strung lustrous baubles of all sizes and colours. Then, of course there is the distinct transparent pyramid. 

Gratis: kind, courteous and thoughtful

As we enter we are awed by the size of the atrium. We know that the children have free entry. Even as we take a few steps forward a couple just leaving thrusts their tickets towards us, “ Please use these. They are valid till the museum closes for the day”. 

The elusive Mona Lisa

One grandchild has evinced interest in art, especially painting and so we decide to explore the Renaissance wing. One of the deciding factors is that the Mona Lisa  falls into the category. The halls are long and lined appropriately with seating from which to ponder over the works that  so realistically and aesthetically  portray the aesthetic ideals of the ancient world through conjuring up  transcendent and serene settings.

The little ones have had a sampling and now they can't wait to see the Mona Lisa. They go quite close to every portrait to inspect. But the Mona Lisa remains elusive. Where is the crowd? We dare not take a turn into some of the branching corridors in case we mistakenly enter another section and miss Mona Lisa entirely. The children are already beginning to drag their feet and droop their heads. Oh! There's a crowd there. It's worth checking. The crowd is made of various tour groups each with its own guide shouting over and above the others. Did we hear the ML word? The children wedge their way through the crowd to reach a rope that is cordoning off an area of about a 2 metre radius. And there hangs the elusive painting. Do we need binoculars to study the painting? 

After the iconic painting we move on to more paintings like the Wedding feast at Cana and then to the  frescoes which lead us to ancient marble statues  like the Caryatids and Venus de Milo. By the time we reach the Egyptian exhibits the children are dog tired and so are we. We have to call it a day.

Everything in one place

Paris is so easy to get around. Everything  that makes Paris the city is accessible through an efficient metro network and bus routes. Also available are bicycles for rent. The iconic buildings are all within walking distance. 

Thirsty? There's always a Wallace fountain. Need a washroom break? There's  a clean one nearby  but you may have to look for it.

End of day 1.

My next blog will cover Day 2.