Pass(ed)over: Easter Island, Chile

 What's in the name? 

This tiny 163 sq km island is a triangular piece of land seemingly in the middle of nowhere. The Chilean coast to the west is 3500 km away. The closest island to the east is 2000 km away. It is populated mainly by people of Polynesian descent who call their home Rapa Nui. In the days of historic perilous voyages the Dutch were the first Europeans to set foot here. It happened during Passover, exactly on Easter Sunday. Hence the name Easter

How does the remote and sparsely inhabited island survive?

The original inhabitants farmed and fished. Most of the 8000 inhabitants live in the only town. Their main business now is tourism. Two flights per week from Santiago, Chile, helps bring the tourists.  

What brings the tourist?

The statues, of course! The Moai (statues) each standing on a ceremonial platform, the Ahu. Anywhere from one to twelve stand on a single Ahu. Were they important personalities deified after their death? This Unesco world heritage site is respectful of local belief and tradition. Do not even think of climbing onto the platforms and touching the statues. In 2008 a Finnish tourist did precisely that, breaking the ear off a moai in the process. He was not only punished with a fine of USD 17,000 but also banned for three years!

These huge statues are made from solidified volcanic ash, found on the island’s Rano Raraku volcanic crater; the islanders sculpted them with stone chisels. So how did they move these massive statues around the island? It would be interesting to find out given that the figures are massive. Imagine a rock 4m x 1.6m x1.6m. It would weigh about 12.5 tons.

On the watch: through the lens

It is no wonder then that they would be visible from as far as 12 nautical miles, the international waters boundary. That works out well for us especially since our cruise liner had to skip the port purportedly due dangerous sea conditions. But we would be sailing by as close as possible. 

Will we be able to spot the statues from this distance? Guests in higher end cabins were provided with binoculars. Some guests had their own. 

Sadly on this particular voyage we did not bring ours. But there's always a way. I whip out my camera and zoom it. Wah lah! I can see the coast even though it is a bit hazy. Everybody is agog and anxious, with eyes glued to the coast hoping not to miss the stone figures. After what seems like ages I catch sight of tall pillars. So I simply click away. After about half an hour the disgruntled turn away. Next I spy the village. More clicks. 

Did we miss THEM? Not really. 

In the conversations that followed after the event we find out that the casual cruiser had expected to identify the sculpted figures not really knowing much about their size and configuration. In actual fact all the rectangular sculpted heads and torsos are turned inland for the moai are there to protect the denizens. So,of course they look like pillars planted in a row!

And then we are moving away. Time to check the shots. Lo and behold! I caught the Rapa Nui. Was I lucky or smart? I knew that the statues all look inward from the shore. 

What we did not miss : rolled heads and rough paths

Of the thousands of statues those further inland are scattered far and wide. Stone heads have toppled and rolled away. These are only reachable through long walks, steep paths and uneven roads. Even If the island is reputed for its guides we wouldn't have done the hikes.

What we missed: pristine air and waters

Peace and quiet. The island being as remote as it is, and its economy being based on tourism, it is largely free from pollution. Had we gone a little closer we would have been in the clearest ocean waters in the world. The waters are said to be transparent to a depth of 50 to 60 meters.

Bora Bora tripped up!

Been there, seen that

While cruising we meet lots of different kinds of people. Which is all very interesting. There's  always a few who do not really know much about the ports, the country. Their knowledge is superficial at best. They rely on the ship's tours and excursions and the quick sales talk on board. Been there, done that is all they really care about. Sometimes that is all there is to it because of circumstances,

Why Bora Bora?

We have Bora Bora on our cruise itinerary.  Where is Bora Bora? It is one of the islands in the South Seas belonging to French Polynesia of which Tahiti (on which the capital Papeʻete is) is the biggest island. The only way to get to Bora Bora is to fly to Tahiti and then sail to the island.

Why is it considered a dream destination? It is a tiny island  surrounded by a ring of islets. All transport is on water only.  Its blue lagoons, clear waters, remoteness, and overwater bungalows are deemed to be out of the world. This last was invented here! You don't ever have to leave the cottage. Everything you need is boated in while you enjoy the water around and under you! You enjoy beautiful  sunsets. All services are by boat only.

Weather dictates

What's on the itinerary sometimes gets canceled mostly due to inclement weather especially if tendering is required. That is what happened. We would be sailing past as close as we could so we could see as much as we can, for the ocean conditions are not conducive to tendering. Good for those who remembered to bring their binoculars.

Did we miss anything? You decide!

We forgot ours. But the camera can zoom in enough to appreciate what we might really miss. 

We are not great beach lovers and certainly not honeymooners and so the pictures I took sufficed to show us the island's natural beauty. Even from afar we can see the dividing line between the brilliant aquamarine lagoon waters near the island from the indigo of the ocean. The dormant volcano and craggy peaks stand out proud and majestic. We have our own hotel on the sea with five star restaurants and happy people all around us. There is no sunset to describe. There will be beautiful ones as we continue sailing!

Pape'ete,Tahiti: French Polynesia

Tahiti: “The Queen of the Pacific”

Chances are that you have conjured up images of hibiscus, fragrant frangipani, lissome bronze bodied dancers, blue lagoons, balmy sea breezes, scenic mountains, a laid back life in a tropical climate, etc. It's all there.

A skip and a step

Sure enough, when we disembark in Papeʻete ( each vowel to be pronounced separately), the capital of French Polynesia, we are greeted by dancers, adorned with flowers and modestly clad with coconut shells. Holding our umbrellas we dance to the tune of monsoon rains, around puddles formed by it. The dancers sway their hips. We skip! Fittingly Papeʻete means “water from a basket”.

Never in limbo

We have no definite plans such as taking a tour to the further reaches of the island to absorb the beauty of the mountains, forests, waterfalls and lagoons. We are not even thinking of tours to the surrounding islands.

So, we walk towards the public market very close to the port. In no time at all, we are inside the huge, lively and colorful market brimming with basketry, pandanus hats, mats, bags, accessories, clothes, fish, fruits, vegetables etc. It's fun to watch fellow cruisers alight upon likely souvenirs.

I keep being drawn towards the admirable handicraft, especially artisan wood sculptures, as we make our way out of the market and onto the waterfront.  Now we are on a picturesque boardwalk, the Quay, that runs along the shoreline leading us to the opulent Marina. Views of majestic mountains in the distance are not obstructed by the rain.

History and mystery 

Continuing along we see the OPT (the post office) building. History has it that in the early 1900s the old post office was literally trundled off to a new location. I still have not found out where.

Momentous history

Just next to the OPT is the verdant and tranquil Parc Bougainville named after the first French explorer to circumnavigate the globe.  The park had previously been named Albert Park (after a Belgian King and WWI hero). 

Nearby are stylised tiki idols. Stone tikis appear almost everywhere for they are greatly revered as guardians in Polynesian culture.  Placed outside a house they protect people and ward off bad energies. 

A memorial site draws our attention away from the scenic views to reveal something even more interesting. This site commemorates the nuclear tests conducted by the French on the Mururoa and Fangataufa atolls over 30 years (1966 - 1996).  Imagine the fallout and lives affected by radiation akin to that experienced in Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Classified information was revealed only pretty recently.

Investigation leads to an accidental treat 

A  little more chastened we follow a stream into a complex of small buildings . It is still drizzling. There is no signboard nearby as to what these buildings are for. There are fences blocking parts of the garden.We happen to find a gap.  There is not a single soul in sight to ask. The simple map from the ship does not tell us much. Are we trespassing? No idea. The plants draw us further into the gardens to reveal even more beauty.  At the end of the gardens there is a natural spring filling a pool with koi and lilies.  

We are actually at the administrative buildings, the Territorial Assembly building ( we do see a sign board in French and Tahitian), the high commissioners building, once a popular guest house of Paul Gaugin, a French artist. By the stream had been the ancient royal house and therefore the Polynesians believed that the waters here are pure. The Queen bathed here. Memorial statues abound in the manicured gardens. Most plants are labelled just as in botanical gardens. There are even herb patches along the stream.

The royal gardens were renamed the gardens of Tarahoi i Vaiete when they were redesigned in 2013. It is now a vast park of over 1200 m2. There is a small freshwater pool where Queen Pomare IV used to bathe and a botanic trail to follow. The gardens are free but not often visited by tourists because they are behind the Assembly building.

Going back to the promenade takes us to yet another garden 

Paofai Gardens

Between the promenade and the arterial Boulevard are the Paofai Gardens with fountains, walking trails and  playgrounds etc. Best of all, we have a great view of the island of Moorea, the "magical island", for honeymooners!

The shops

The streets of Papeete are narrow, but  sidewalks are safe. We come the Robert Wan shop. We are interested mainly because  of the Chinese name. There's nothing to disappoint, since it is also a well curated museum.  Black pearls seem to be their speciality. But there are also umpteen other hues I wouldn't have associated with pearls. The expensive jewellery is impressive as well. Renowned figures in the likes of queen's and first ladies are among its visitors.

Localised churches 

Cathedral of Notre Dame of Papeʻetē, a bright yellow building, catches the eye both outside and inside. The Stations of the Cross are in a style that clearly reflects that of Paul Gauguin. The statue of Mary holding Jesus has Polynesian facial features. Figures carry fruits of the bread tree.

We skip The Papeʻetē Tahiti Temple of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.

Our ship leaves late at night so there is time to visit the very busy Roulottes. It is filled with food trucks and swings with night life

Gaffe

You may have noticed me and the receptionist wearing flowers on the ear. She is wearing it on her right ear and so am I. Months later I discover that im wearing it on the wrong ear. Im married and hence not available. I should be wearing it on my left (closer to the heart) to indicate that status . Well, being a wet day, people were so busy watching their steps they had no time to flirt with me! 

The same goes for men!

Trivia

Papeʻetē is a setting in Mutiny on the Bounty

The Falkland Islands/ Islas Malvinas: as remote as can be

Admiration for brave explorers at the ‘end of the earth’

It is December. Having sailed down the long long coast of Chile taking in the views of snow clad mountains and glaciers, we pass through the Beagle Channel, named after Darwin's ship, with a rare treat to glimpses of wild marine life on the rocky crags in a primaeval environment near Punta Arenas, Argentina. We then sail the straits of Magellan, named after Ferdinand Magellan who rounded the perilous Cape Horn, located at the southernmost tip of South America. Before the Panama canal was opened this was the only trade route between East Asia and Europe, and which connected the East and West coasts of North America! The horn of Africa is where the Pacific and the Antarctic oceans crash tumultuously into each other, causing havoc to the clippers of yore. 1000s of sailors were lost in shipwrecks. 

We are the closest we would ever be to Antarctica. We have been blessed with calm seas.

Luck and fact: Port Stanley, The Falklands

We are headed towards Port Stanley. So far we have been lucky because the seas in this area are unpredictable. More than often ports are cancelled. Many of the crew have been on this route several times without ever being able to go ashore. Several of our cruise friends have experienced cancellations before. There are also conspiracy theories. Perhaps our shipping line has not paid port duties! Let's face the facts: Port Stanley has one of the worlds highest risks with unpredictable blustery winds and huge swells. The day before and after our visit ships could not get in at all. The calm sea allows for a gentle tender ride to the port.

One ship too many

We are not the only ship in the port. There is another. The ship's excursion buses are filling up. They are going to the penguin colonies. We have not planned anything. There is a local shuttle to the nearest penguin colony for $20 return. Really? For 7 km? Oh, and the long lines. This will not do. We hear of a few people planning to walk. 7 km return is doable depending on the terrain. Are we ready to walk? Why not explore the city first. It is quite small and within 30 mins we think we have seen it all. We have plenty of time. Why not walk to penguin cove? We could always take a ride back.

Comfort in company.

We check with a local for directions. He points the other way and we trust him. We have a rough idea. We pass by a residential area with fenced in homes, vegetable gardens, chicken coops, etc. There are a few trees here and there. And then? The road goes on and on. There must be walking trails. Sure enough we see a family with children in tow weave their way through the ground cover. They seem so sure. We follow them. The ground is springy. I am wondering if it is peat or bog. Will we get stuck? Will our calls for help be heard? The town seems so far away. We were actually walking on heath and gorse with their yellow flowers (the stuff that I had read about in Victorian novels but never actually thought I would experience). But an hour’s walking gives us some confidence about the terrain. We are careful to avoid the various nesting and squawking birds, like the rock albatross. We think we are almost there when we come across a bridge leading to a floating dock. It's scary walking along the mesh. It's all rather quiet. When we reach the container dock there's nary a soul. A sign board tells us that we are trespassing and so we quickly exit.

Now we do not have anyone to follow. We don't have a compass. We'll just have to wing it. We walk along the small bay with a wrecked ship. And then there are the hills. Will we see the bright blue sea over the next hump? We have walked more than an hour and we are exhausted. Our feet feel heavy. But, wait. We see people over the hills. Energised we plod forward. Three more hills to climb and we are on a gravel path lined with patches of tall wild grass leading to a ragged cliff overlooking a pristine beach. Penguin haven!

 

Penguin sanctuary: ensured by landmines!

We are actually at the remote Gypsy Cove and the adjoining York Cove known for its quicksand. We see mostly Magellanic Penguins. Some are active either collecting pebbles for their nest or taking the chicks out for a swim. Some are standing with their wings fanned out, cooling themselves. Others seem to be lifeless, lying with their faces down on the sand. Also cooling off. They are simply relaxing without a care in the world. A sign board warns us not to go beyond the barbed wire. Landmines. 30,000 of them. Left behind in the 1982 war between Britain and Argentina. Wouldn't the penguins set them off? Apparently a penguin on a landmine is like a fly on a rock. Humans can set them off. Oddly,the penguins are protected by the very killer weapons. They deserve to be for they are no part of the war. 

Remoteness pays.

Blustery Winds 

The wind picks up. It's getting colder. Will the weather turn for the worse. Shouldn't we be leaving the island before the seas become dangerous for our tender to navigate? We have to wrench ourselves from the panorama and make our way back to port. 

Surprise! We are just in time for the shuttle bus. As we are about to pull out the wallet to pay for the trip we are quickly ushered into the bus. No-one bothers to ask for a ticket. Perhaps the assumption is that everyone has a return ticket. By the time we realise it we are already at the port. 

The wind has died down and there's still time before we tender back to the ship. And so we make good use of it to explore the very same places we had started off with in the morning. Starting with the bust of Margaret Thatcher, the esplanade takes us to the Whale bone structure at the 150 year old Church, a graveyard of hulls of more than 20 ships destroyed by torturous north atlantic storms, the museum, the government house, etc

Trivia:

Port Stanley is the only town on the Falkland Islands

Penguin News Weekly

Red phone booths, driving on the left are unmistakably British 

There is not a single ATM

Popular chain stores? None

Private beach: privileged penguins 

We've seen penguins in Philip Island's (Australia)Penguin Parade, where we sat on wooden bleachers at sunset awaiting the return of the penguins to their nest underneath our seats and also in Boulder Beach penguin Colony, near Cape Town. The African penguins here are protected by boulders. We walk along a boardwalk. But the penguins in Falkland Islands seem to have the most private beaches!

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