Las Palmas: palm tree and the palm
As soon as we docked and got over our sea legs we made a quick walk to the ‘center’ and was it truly a centre! The road sign painted on the tarmac in various coloured radii each terminating with a balloon indicating what to expect in each of the directions is the literal road map.
As usual, we choose to visit the furthest part from the Pier and work our way back. That means we first go to the old town of Las Palmas called Vegueta. Clearly, walking there would eat up most of the time we have in the port. The alternative is to take the local bus and we do. Rain clouds loom as we drive by the beautiful esplanade and the marina aflutter with sailboats.
Theatres galore
We get off at Triana, starting at the beautiful huge wrought iron spiral, a street lined by a gorgeous mix of old and new buildings filled with shops and cafés. The street leads towards Teatro Pérez Galdós. The classic, stately,historical facade of intricate columns and sculptural details certainly distinguishes it for what it is – the most important venue for opera and classical performances in the city. Imagine what it would be like inside to so endear it to the Canarians!
The unconventional, modernistic building that we next come across is Teatro GuiniGuada. Appropriately, originally a cinema, it has adapted to changing audience demands. It now also hosts stage performances!
Within a short walk an attractive, graceful building stands before us. It's all a powder blue, with windows and details painted white, punctuated by brown balconies. This is none other than The Palacete Rodríguez Quegles. The story is that the mansion was built for a wealthy businessman. So it was a residence for nearly 70 years before the city bought it. It then housed the music conservatory until it evolved into a cultural centre. Had the building been open, we would have seen its stained glass windows.
Passage into discovery
We have by now crossed into Vegueta, stepping onto cobbled streets in the oldest neighbourhood of Las Palmas. The Plaza San Antonio Abad oozes history. San Antonio Chapel is an unassuming building. For a fee we could have gone in to admire richly decorated carvings. But it suffices us to learn that Christopher Columbus may have prayed here before he set off on his voyage across the Atlantic.
Casa de Colón (Museo Canarias) is just next to it. Its focus is on Columbus's voyage, but it also claims to have the largest collection of Cro-Magnon skulls in the world! We choose to skip it.
The piece de resistance
We've been having glimpses of orthodox, pinkish bell towers all along. As we saunter into Santa Ana Plaza, there standing before us is the iconic 16th century, gothic style Cathedral of Santa Ana , the very first church (built in the 16th century) of the Canary Islands. Inside, the towering columns seemingly branch out into the vaulted ceiling, creating an impressive shape of palm fronds. Was las palmas named after palm fronds? The building is surrounded by colonial style historic buildings with wooden balconies. Going by the mixture of locals and tourists relaxing and soaking in the atmosphere it is highly popular, indeed. Though enigmatic, the eight bronze dog statues in the square have become the symbol of Las Palmas . It is a popular gathering place for locals and tourists and often hosts concerts and festivities.
Plaza de Espíritu Santo: triangular square
A stone's throw away we encounter a triangle, not a square. Its attraction is the covered Hispanic fountain, one of the few of its kind. The flora in the ‘square’ is an illustration of the link between the Canary Islands and the Americas.. The square is surrounded by stately, colourful buildings.
Our next stop is Plaza de Santo Domingo,named for the 17th century Church of Santo Domingo de Guzmán. Again stately houses and trees contribute to the serenity and loveliness of it all. We're almost where we started our walk of discovery.
Suggestive names
Gabinete Literario ( literary cabinet)? Your guess is as right as mine. It is a library as stunning as its name.
Plaza de las ranas ( frog square):
Yes, lots of foliage and plenty of frog sculptures.
Walking through quiet and quaint alleys and catching sight of the city skyline from afar ends our visit to the historic quarter. A few hours immersed in the historic but vibrant atmosphere is enough to seal our admiration for Las Palmas's pride in its heritage and its subtle adaptation to modernity.
Sand art with the help of palms
Back at the pier and after a quick meal there's still about two hours before we set sail. It's begun to drizzle. Will there be time to explore the other side of the city? I decide to take a gamble. A brisk walk takes me to the mercado and the eateries that seem not so busy. Taking peremptory peeks between the buildings I get glimpses of a sandy beach. A short street takes me there and I am stunned. Before me is a wide expanse of beach all full of Biblical scenes carved into or built of sand. The landscape is often Canarian. They are incredibly huge. Certainly not the work of just one artist per scene. The elaborate, large-scale artistic creations definitely involve professional sculptors.
Trivia:
Las Canteras beach is one of the best urban beaches in Europe notably for the great weather and proximity to a bustling city.
It has more that 200,000 visitors a year
The first sand sculptures were made at Christmas in 2006
Prestigious artists are often involved.
Everyday life
On the way back to the ship I make a quick visit toThe Mercado del Puerto, the very first food market in the Canary Islands. It Was once a very traditional Spanish fruit, veg, meat and fish market but has transformed into a fashionable bustling night scene. The colourful Christmas stalls both outside and inside are bustling with souvenir hunters.
Closer to the ship is a mall. Another stunning display of nativity scenes in dioramas. Capping it up is the glittering pumpkin carriage drawn by a reindeer.