Dramatic chronology: Skopje, Macedonia

Facts of life.

As we travel from Ohrid to Skopje we get a taste of the verdant countryside  with picture perfect villages. We come across different graveyards,as is usual, just outside the towns and villages or beside churches.  

Notably,the gravestones with Moslem names show the crescent and star symbol. Other graveyards also have very simple rectangular  tombstones. 

We arrive at a town for lunch and are surprised to see double decker buses plying the routes. DrInk and I walk into a large store to get something to eat and also to spend our leftover Macedonian Dinars for they would be of no use to us when we leave the country the next day. We find only chocolates and Turkish delights that are unique to the Balkans.

A double whammy

Our next stop is Matya Canyon. Once our bus is parked we walk along quite a ways towards a gate. But there is still a long distance to go. Those who have opted to go on a boat ride, that would take them on the crystal clear water flanked by rugged cliffs to a short hiking trail into a cave from where they would hike back, are advised to use the toilets before boarding. It is no piece of cake. A slope leads up to restaurants, and various stalls. At the end of a long laborious walk, after a steep climb over the stone stairs are the public washrooms. Our group is appalled that it costs 1 euro each. Not many of them have the required cash for it. Toilets are free at the restaurants only if you eat there. 

The main overlook

We huff and puff towards the dam after which is the water ride platform.  Ticket booths are busily selling tickets for a lot  of activities like hiking and boat trips here. The restaurants lining the path along the canyon are rustic, mostly built of stone and wood, adorned with rose bushes. What steals our attention most is an open air antique store. The gelato vendors are doing a roaring business. These and the souvenir shops only accept local currency. The restaurant accepts credit cards.

A precarious venture

The path continues further into the higher parts of the canyon. A few people are loping up the path hugging the side of the  cliffs. It looks easy and therefore tempting. So I decide to give it a go and ambitiously think it might lead me to the cave. The path is rough rock except for a few steps. Apart from being uneven the path is narrow at times as well slanting down towards the waters way down below. The hand rails look a little wobbly. So I simply hold on to them tentatively and also hang on to the cliff wall. To my surprise a sturdy rope  anchored to the cliff at intervals helps boost my confidence. Manipulating the sharp bends and abrupt, heartstopping  steeper slopes does sap my energy, so much so that I content myself with great views of the canyon from different heights and angles from where I am. All thoughts of reaching the cave (which is actually not accessible from where I am) are abandoned. The teal waters of the river, rugged cliffs punched with caves, and peaceful surroundings (not many people hiking) are quietly dramatic.

From tumultuous history to religious diversity

As we leave Matka Canyon for Skopje most of our fellow travellers fall asleep from exhaustion. At Skopje we are dropped at the old down in the shadow of a fortress. As always, our local guide has been advised to keep us in the shade as much as possible. 

We are standing beside a plateau on which sits Mustafa Pasha Mosque, an Ottoman-era mosque, characterised by its opulent architecture and a serene courtyard. We get a glimpse only of the domes above a wall from where we are.  It is reminiscent of the Hagia Sophia of Istanbul. It is certainly as tranquil as is touted to be. 

A few metres away is an ancient old oaken door. The guide tells us the door opens into a churchyard that holds the sarcophagus of a revolutionary. 

This is the Church of the Ascension of Jesus of  Eastern Orthodox heritage, adding yet another historical dimension to the city.

More revelations

We are then led to the well preserved bazaar, the second largest in the world after Istanbul’s dating back to the 12th century. Walking along the stone paved alleys we are shown a traditional hamam(now a museum) , Turkish baths, several mosques and a caravanserai which has been converted into a restaurant with Byzantine touches. There's a synagogue too.The bazaar is famous for its traditional craftsmanship. It hosts numerous art galleries, museums, and cultural institutions making it a cultural center . 

Here a statue, there a statue . . .

As we leave the bazaar we enter Macedonia square,a completely contrasting space. It's a spacious square that spans the Vardar River. We see the back of a statue,  poised on an extraordinarily high pedestal, ahead of us holding his sword aloft. Wouldn't it be that of Alexander the Great, the very first name that pops up at the mention of Macedonia? The statue looks spanking new. And then there are several modern buildings around the square housing cultural and political institutions. There's also a mall. Only after we come to the front of the statue do we realise that the statue is not of Alexander but of Phillip, his father. Appearances can deceive. In the background is the Hamam.

And then it hits. Here a statue, there a statue, everywhere a statue. Definitely a dense population of past men of note. It may seem all too overwhelming but it does certainly help make history endure and give the city a pseudo classical feel.

The more prominent statues with fountains are those of Alexander's mother nurturing her child in the different stages of his childhood. There's also a statue devoted to mothers. 

And  there stands Alexander the Great mounted on his horse rearing to conquer more lands.it is an overwhelming 8 stories high!

The other side

Crossing over to the opposite bank across the iconic stone bridge (the Old Bridge),a 214 meter long bridge made of solid stone blocks resting on 12  arcs, we get views of the three modern bridges lined with statues of prominent people, from different generations and different walks of life, who have contributed to the growth of the country over the centuries. Each bridge has a theme. That's when we enter Macedonia Street. This is  obviously Skopje's  industrial, commercial, and administrative centre. 

We are led to a tree which stands in place of the house Mother Teresa was born into an Albanian family in 1910. Ethnically, therefore, she is Albanian. That is the reason why Tirana, Albania takes pride in  her through statues in her memory. A few meters away is the humble Mother Teresa Memorial House on the 2nd floor of which is a gallery of pictures and icons related to the Saint. 

Italian irritation

Our tour leader has booked us dinner at the Italian restaurant in a vast mall which is strangely very quiet in spite of the abundance of shoe shops and a few branded clothing stores. The waiters are brusque with us since we have asked for late dining. We are served pasta and a dessert that I wouldn't call Italian. They are very happy to whisk away our plates, mostly unfinished portions, and call it a day.

Brand new accommodation 

We are in for a surprise. Our hotel for the night is directly opposite the memorial. It's a slim building which makes us conjure up what our rooms would look like. However we are not going in yet for our tour bus has to find a way to get to the closest road where parking is limited to 10 mins. The trees in the vehicle-free Macedonia Street have wrap-around seats. Exhausted, we slump on to these while others waddle into the hotel lobby. It is fun to see night life beginning to pick up all around us and the temperatures falling. Finally, after nearly an hour, our bus driver has been advised by the hotel to pull up at a back street from when we could pick up our luggage. It's quite a trudge. We do get bellboys who handle the bulkier suitcases.

We have the best rooms on the trip so far. Partly it's because the hotel is just a few months old, the Vietnamese staff speaks English, the towels are brand new, etc. There is a weighing machine as well! It's definitely five stars and more.

Living up to expectations 

As the lights go on we go out into the city retracing our morning route. At the river bank on Macedonia Street the large green park which is an oasis during the day has transformed into a dynamic space. A large group of people surrounds a few artists- painters, a magician, acrobats- demonstrating their work alive. .it is teeming with people enjoying a leisurely stroll or engaged in various activities. We arrive at the even more vibrant and busy old bazaar with restaurateurs calling out to customers. Craft and souvenir shops take on a magical aura. 

It is then that we decide to try the new Bridges of Civilisation parallel to the stone bridge lit by beautiful street lamps. We now notice the triumphal arch covered in marble reliefs that depict important scenes from the history of Macedonia, including images of Alexander the Great. This depiction led into an official complaint by the Greek government since Greece has claims to the man who cut the Gordian Knot.

The street on the other side is awash with colourful lights displaying restaurants that offer diverse culinary experiences 

Dawn in Skopje

It's our morning routine to take a walk in the city before breakfast. The square and the street are still except for the occasional pedestrian up and about for work. As we cross the stone bridge the seemingly calm waters of the river reflect the surrounding buildings. The book shop with its attractive shutter and scooters for hire await customers after a busy night. 

We reach a space just next to the bazaar where we find ourselves just across the highway to the city under the imposing fort that we only had a glimpse of the previous day. 

While on the stone bridge a stray dog follows as though it was protecting us for it barked if birds flew near us and left us abruptly as soon as we finished the crossing.

The bazaar is silent. The stillness makes us more aware of our surroundings and the unimaginable huge statues placed in the midst of fountains. Then there are quirky statues. 

As we look up from anywhere in the vicinity, the Millennium Cross( one of the world's tallest) perched atop Mt Vodno, proudly supposed to celebrate 2000 years of Christianity in the region. Also it is twice the size of Christ the Redeemer in Rio. At night it is lit up

On our way back we come across a bull reminiscent of the one in New York City. Its tail is broken. The bull symbolizes the strength and fertility of the Macedonian people.

We also spot the old feudal tower that withstood the earth quake of 1963, before we reach our hotel for an excellent buffet breakfast.

That's when we realize how walkable this city of 500,000 is.

A new Church close to the mother Theresa memorial is nearing completion.

We  cover everything on foot within an hour which just goes to show how compact the city is.

Remarkable

The city was destroyed twice. The earlier destruction was caused by a fire started by Austrian troops in 1869 that burned for 2 days destroying the city and reducing the population from 60,000 to 10,000. It is also conjectured that the city was burnt down to eradicate the cholera epidemic.

Around 30 mosques within the city are testament to Ottoman, as are several hamams and inns .

Point of contention:

Greek or not?Ancient Macedonians spoke Greek and had a Hellenic culture. While modern North Macedonians speak a Slavic language from the 5th century onward. 

The Greeks believe that Macedonia also encompasses most of northern Greece and parts of western Bulgaria. Calling Skopje’s country Macedonia creates territorial implications. So this should not be used as the name of the country due to the territorial implications this could have.

Alexander the Great is called Warrior on A Horse in Macedonia because the Greeks claim him for themselves.

Internationally, the mini-state still has to call itself the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia – the title it was given by the UN shortly after independence – inspit of the fact that 132 countries have recognised it as the Republic of Macedonia.

Ohrid,Macedonia: A crazy history!

Full of promise

A heavy complimentary breakfast at Tirana has prepared us for a 2 1/2 hour journey to Ohrid, North Macedonia. I'm a little excited about Macedonia because of its association with Alexander the great. 

The winding, undulating route keeps my eyes peeled on the stunning landscape dotted with villages, interspersed with furrows of flowering plants, vegetables, and the conical haystacks topped with a knot.  We are surrounded by mountains cradling villages in its folds. Most of the way a river rushes along our side, pouring over weirs. And then there are tall bridges straddling hills. They support old railway tracks. Plus there are tunnels. 

Unpretentious mosques stand out simply because of their minarets.  Along the way we stop for a toilet break. We are surrounded by flowers..

Border checkpoint with a ‘tip’

Our tour leader has warned us that a 2 to 3 hour addition to our journey might be inevitable. It depends on the number of vehicles at the crossing. Sometimes officers would require that every bus passenger alight and meet an officer face to face. At other times the passports are collected by the driver who then passes them on to the officer. God forbid that an Albanian bus is ahead of us. It gets a thorough check which may take up to an hour for each bus.

We are lucky. Our driver hands over some bottled water to the concerned person and we are off in about 30 mins. 

Well fed lake extraordinaire 

Almost within an hour we are in Ohrid, the lake for which it is named and of which we have had tantalizing blue glimpses along our route. The lake shimmering in the heat has more than meets the eye with respect to nature and  culture. 

It shares the shoreline with Albania, its neighbouring country, on whose side is the town called Progdac. Over there are the springs of Drilon, one of the sources that feed the lake.  Modest tributaries fill it in from the north. Hear this! It is mainly fed by underground streams in the east which trickle through from  Lake Prespa 10 km away and at a higher altitude. 

We are not done yet! The water at the surface of Lake Ohrid moves mostly in a counter-clockwise direction along the shore. Why? The force of the  wind and the rotation of the Earth.

Here's more. It is one of Europe's deepest and oldest lakes, with a unique aquatic ecosystem, with more than 200 endemic species.

Unearthing the city on the slopes

Our local guide tells us that our tour of the old quarters begins with some gradual steps and slightly steeper slopes nearer the top. We brace ourselves for the hike. As we step into the old world we are confronted by a well preserved massive stone tower at Lower Gate. It is part of Samuel's Fortress. We step onto an iron grid over a cellar like depression. Apparently, in ancient and medieval times, before visitors could enter the gates they had to ‘ditch’ all they were carrying into the trench, to be reprieved later. Reason: to prevent contamination and to protect denizens from spreadable diseases. The entrants were also quarantined. 

It is easy to get lost in the labyrinthine alleys, charming narrow cobblestoned or flagstone streets lined with cafes, artisan shops (including a workshop that taught old fashioned paper making), stone walls, tiled roofs, etc. 

It gets a little steeper as we ascend. History has it that when the Turks came to Ohrid, they restricted the town’s Christian population to the walled area which enclosed the steep slopes of the city. That is why  parts of the town feel a little claustrophobic, with tall houses towering over narrow alleyways, throwing shadows.

It is also the reason why all the churches are found in this part of town.  

Architectural elements

We walk by  the Robev Family House, built in the 1900s, a significant example of a traditional Ottoman Turkish house and therefore an architecturally important cultural monument. It is now an Archaeological Museum, 

Blame it on constraints

Looking above in the narrow streets we see distinctive Ohrid architecture.  Each upper storey protrudes over the lower to add to the living area as the family expands  over the generations. The bottom floor is stone while the upper floors are constructed of wood. Wall niches and wood carved ornaments decorate the ceilings. 

Strict rebuilding codes

Do you want to own a house here? You are bound by law to adhere to traditional styles, and use appropriate material consistent with the historical context. Most importantly if renovation uncovers artefacts you may not be allowed to build over it!

‘Jerusalem of the Balkans’: spiritual hub

As we climb further we see crosses over the rooftops of small humble buildings. We pass by the Church of the Virgin Mary, which is one of the 365 ( one a day for the whole year)mostly tiny churches said to be in the town. Ohrid was after all a spiritual hub in the Macedonian region. Nobody's counting now.

Similar to Hagia Sophia in Istanbul

We do stop at the Church of Saint Sophia which has an old world charm. Built in the 9th century it is of Byzantine architecture with frescoes when it served as a Cathedral. Later it was transformed into a mosque. The frescoes were covered with lime. After World War 2, restoration uncovered the frescoes that are regarded as the finest examples of medieval art in the Balkans.

Hellenic: even more ancient.

We are almost at the top of the hill. From the base of a steep incline we catch sight of an amphitheatre surrounded by two hills. This was discovered when the land was to be used for building homes. Excavation for the foundation revealed parts of the theatre. Thanks to the strict rules no buildings were allowed over it. Instead the whole theater was excavated. Probably built around the 2nd century the theatre includes a stage in the middle. The acoustics would have been fantastic since the stage was protected from the winds by the two hills. The theater had also been used for gladiator flights.

Buried for a grisly reason

The theatre was where the Romans  executed the Christians. Naturally the site was highly disliked by the local residents.  Subsequently it was abandoned and buried.

Panting up to a breathtaking view

The gravel road along the theatre leads to stairs above which is a newer residential area. In the distance, just above the rows of houses is a hill that flies a huge flag. This marks Samuel's Fortress.  We are too limp to climb up even further for the fantastic views of the lake and the Church of Saint John at Kaneo, a picturesque gem perched on a cliff overlooking the azure waters of Lake Ohrid. Dating back to the 13th century, this small yet magnificent church is famed for its remarkable frescoes.  

There are pearls and then there are pearls!

I've heard of and seen Japanese pearls, Hyderabad pearls, cultured pearls, black pearls and pink pearls. Add another to the list: the Ohrid pearl which is not at all like a regular pearl. These are made from balls of powdered shells. Then they are covered layers of an emulsion made of fish( only found in ohrid) scales. The emulsion creates the rich colours and the shine. The exact process is a secret known only to two people.

This is a Bazaar?

All that is left for us to do is to explore the bazaar, more accurately a street paved with cobblestones and bits of marble lined with souvenir shops, especially for Ohrid's unique pearls. We think it is better to have some cash on hand especially if we found a bargain. We have been told that neither the USD nor the Euro will be accepted here. Most shops do not have the means to process credit cards. And this is true of most of the Balkan countries. A cheerful man at a booth does the exchange to Macedonian Denar over the counter in a matter of mins.

The elegant pearls stand out.they are e timing. I walk in and out of several,  find a few I like. But the price tags, even if they are reasonable, prevent me from buying any from the practical aspect.

‘Enlightenment’

We decide to go for ice cream in a cup for it is a scorching day and our dinner is an hour away. We find a tree just in front of the mosque and sit in its shade. Turkish ice cream is heavenly. The mosque with a prominent dome, elegant minarets, intricate carvings, and vibrant mosaics within and without is none other than the historic Ali Pasha Mosque. Besides  being considered the largest mosque in Ohrid it is also  a significant religious monument signifying the period of Ottoman rule. 

And.. we are sitting under a 900 year old plane tree also called the cinar tree.

Grilled trout

We meet members of our group at a lakeside restaurant at the stipulated time. Our dinner is fantastic except for the dessert which looked like a cheese cake which had more cake than cheese. The grilled trout served with a squeeze of lemon, roasted potatoes and fresh vegetables helped csp the day very well indeed. 

A panorama

Our hotel for the night is in a quiet part of town about 20 mins away from the old town. The rooms are not great but it is on the shores of the lake. The clear waters, the waves creating plumes across the rocks. Ohrid neatly tucked away on the hills far away made for a beautiful setting. I was able to catch the vibrant sun set against the hills in the distance.

Before an excellent breakfast the next day we decide to explore the vicinity. To our delight we found a park with a broad route for joggers and cyclists. The lone cypress tree at the hotel stood like a sentinel. The previous day we had walked in the central park, filled with rose bushes and shade trees, along the shores 

Trivia

The town is a UNESCO World Heritage due to its exceptional cultural and natural significance. 

This fortress used to be the capital of the First Bulgarian Empire back in the 11th century. Yes, Bulgarian. Leave it to the locals to fight it out.

North Macedonia was part of Yugoslavia and only got its independence in the early 90s.

Russian script on the signboards! No, no, says the Macedonian. It was Bulgarian before it became Russian!

Transformation and progress :Tirana, Albania

Dubai Airport intimidates

Our flight to Tirana included a 3 hour transit in Dubai. Little did we know that those 3 hours would be tense. The Airport has 3 terminals. We arrive at Terminal 1 through an aerobridge.  Our tour leader warns us that it could take us a good portion of our transit time to make our way to our next departure terminal, Terminal 2, which is on the opposite side of the airport. For transiting passengers a shuttle service runs between the terminals. We have to keep checking that none of our group is missing. There is literally no time to see what the airport has to offer. We wait together with our boarding passes for our next flight which are checked before we can board the airport bus to shuttle us. Two of our members have to answer nature's call and so the tour leader stays back to shepherd them after giving us clear instructions as to where to wait for him. Our transport drives along the fringes of the airport for what seems like ages. Terminal 2 is like a bus station. By the time we find seats it's already time to board. There's such a long queue that some of us approach the staff and, citing our age, ask if we could skip the line. They were condescending. What do we skip the line for? Only to enter a holding area where the ‘gatekeeper’ wants to be sure we are bound for Tirana. A bus comes by. We board as quickly as we can without pushing and shoving. Standing room! Luckily the ride is not too long. Small consolation that the gangway to our smaller aircraft is a ramp with non-slip slats at intervals which means rollered hand luggage can be wheeled in without the huff and puff.

Frenzy at the carousel

We have also been advised not to sleep during the 6 hr flight for we will be landing in time for lunch, after which we will have a guided tour.

After the 16 hour travel with the tiresome transit in Dubai, fellow group members are quite exhausted by the frenzy at the baggage carousel in Tirana. All our bags come in quite late. Besides, anybody could have walked out with our bags with so many passengers crowding around the various carousels and flitting between them.  

Peripheral Vision: did anybody else notice?

When in a group tour there are so many instructions to follow and to keep track of the ‘flag’ that appreciating the surroundings takes a back seat. Thank goodness for peripheral vision that the facade of the airport caught my eye. The facade covers an entire building. If I had not looked closer I would have dismissed it as a poor replica of the bird's nest stadium at the China Olympics. But this is even more intricate employing Balkan motifs, proudly highlighting local culture. It's impressive.

Lots of questions

I'm sitting on the right side of the tour bus with a blocked view but my eyes are all agog. That's when I get a glimpse of a dreary stooped figure aloft a high pedestal. Mother Teresa?  

We are driven to a modern part of the city and dropped close to a  huge new building that has majestic minarets and domes. It resembles the Hagia Sophia of Istanbul, Turkey. It looks majestic and very new. 

We walk towards a restaurant for lunch. It's Chinese food prepared by an Albanese chef. We have Muslim women in our group. Our tour leader ensures their Halal needs are met. We are in the Balkans but our first meal there is 4 course Chinese. Perhaps to acclimatise our digestive system?

Dodging the heat

Our local tour guide, a tall slender female, joins us. We drive to the city centre. Our tour is estimated to take from 45 mins to an hour. DrInk, feeling sleepy, decides to take a rest in the gardens nearby while the rest of us follow our guide walking along beautiful boulevards and tree-lined avenues. It is a very hot day . Our guide has been advised to keep us in the shade as much as possible.   

Black and white facts on red and black

She leads us to Skanderbeg Square named after a military leader who led a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire. He is said to have called himself "Lord of Albania". Nearby is a huge blood crimson flag with a black double headed eagle motif in the centre. It depicts the turbulent history of Albania through  various reigns, from the Roman to Ottoman to socialism,  communism and then democracy. Red signifies strength, courage and sacrifice, while the eagle represents the Roman origins of Albania.

We are standing in a vast beautifully tiled space surrounded by significant buildings. Closest to us is the Palace of Culture ( the old Bazaar was razed to build this during communist times). It is occupied by the National Library of Albania as well as the National Theatre of Opera and Ballet.  Across from it is the national History Museum which includes a pavilion for Mother Teresa.

Expect the unexpected

Next to us stands a unique colourful mosque: Et'hem Bey Mosque. Frescoes appear both in the interior and exterior. What makes them different from generic mosques are themes that are rarely found in Islamic art as well as vibrant colours.. 

Adjacent to it is the heritage clock tower of the Ottoman Era. It has a square base and is topped by a belfry resembling those of churches. In the background is the "Book Building" whose name is derived from the facade that looks like a very large tome with the concave cuts at the page edges to mark chapters or sections.

A few feet away stands a huge structure, a skeleton of a twisted shell. The square is getting ready for an Expo.

Auditory draw

 As we walk towards more government buildings we are surrounded by a recording played from a speaker beside a bunker. This is Bunker Art 2. It seems we are hearing the names of the political prisoners of the communist rule.  The dome shaped entrance has its walls covered with their pictures. According to our guide the bunker consists of 24 rooms and one apartment to be used by the minister of the interior. It also has a large meeting hall that is now used to display exhibits, as well as surveillance and interrogation rooms. 

Paranoia 

The minister is said to have built more than 150,000 bunkers throughout the country. His fear of invasion from the United States and the Soviet Union caused him to have these bunkers built throughout his rule. 

Traces of various civilisations.

The mosque and the tower are unmistakably Ottoman. The several governmental  buildings in the vicinity show different architectural styles:Roman, Byzantine, Communist, Italian and modern. The building whose walls are adorned with pink tiles stands out.. The Orthodox church is visible in the distance. 

A cage for visiting dignitaries

The former Hotel Dajti, with broad red carpeted steps leading up to its entrance  is rather deceptive. The suspicion begins with its stark structure.. It was the primary center for international visitors and diplomats during Albania's socialist period; the guest rooms were bugged with microphones, and there was a sub-basement floor for listening staff.

Taiwan in Tirana

Opposite this building is Rina Park which the locals affectionately call their Taiwan. It was built by the family that had visited Taiwan and decided to imitate it in a pavilion surrounded by restaurants. The Park itself is a welcome cool, green area in the centre of a bustling city.

In the clouds but also rooted in reality

Colorful Installation art in the form of human figures made out of rectangular dowels line the bridge we cross next. This leads us to the art gallery in front of which stands a structure made out of metal and plastics. It's like playground equipment, only larger in scale. You can sit under it or climb all over!It is none other than THE CLOUD! made  by a Japanese architect for Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park, in London. Later it was moved to Tiranaa. It is used for cultural events. 

Far behind it is the rebuilt castle which is not in our itinerary. Neither is the Orthodox Church.

Memorial or Mausoleum?: towards progress

Before us stands a huge white pyramid. Sixteen stairs, with nearly 300 steps each, all around the pyramid lead up to the top with a 360-degree view of the city. Oiginally a museum about the legacy of the long-time leader of Communist Albania. His daughter  co-designed it. When the regime collapsed it  ceased to be a museum and was then repurposed. Now it is an IT centre for youth.

The disappearance

We have now finished our tour and so wait in a shady spot till the  us comes to pick us up. The driver calls back in panic. He couldn't find DrInk and I'm unable to contact him. The guide kindly lets me use her phone to call him . He is not where I thought he would be,i,e taking a nap under the trees. We spend a frantic 20 minutes trying to figure out where he could be. The driver's search in the gardens under shady trees turns up nothing. And then, after what seems like infinity, the driver calls back to say the missing person has returned to the bus.

With a collective sigh of relief we head towards our hotel for a welcome bath and nap.

Supermarket forage

Our hotel is in a posh area. Soon after we check in and take a little rest we go out to shop for our dinner and for the next day's lunch. We have been given simple directions to the local supermarket. We follow the directions  but do not find any. We approach a couple of women at the bus stop. They search both electronically and physically, conveying to us in English in which direction to go. We had actually passed by the supermarket whose entrance was on the other side. Looking for yogurt took nearly 30 mins because the sales girls on the ground floor speak no English. Then we have to look for jam. We search in the basement floor and approach a salesgirl there.She speaks a little English. Going up and down the escalator several times we are able to finally get everything we need, including a 2 litre bottle of water, to be on the safe side.

Relaxed enough to appreciate the surroundings. 

Walking the neighbourhood is pleasant especially because it is pedestrian friendly and compact. The well-lit squares are surrounded by posh apartment complexes that include play areas which are all well maintained . Along the way are  trendy boutiques, upscale shops, fashionable restaurants, and vibrant bars

Just outside the hotel is the canal with several neon lit pedestrian bridges. The walkway is lined with beautiful clusters if street lamps lit by solar power.

The  contrast

Early in the morning we decide to explore the other side of the canal which seems bleaker, quieter and darker. But first we do a 15 min walk towards the city to see if we can spot remnants of the old Fort but to no avail. But I do get closer to another installation art that I had wanted to explore further the previous day. Again it's a variation of the eagle motive with separate wings soaring high on tall poles.

Walking the residential area across the canal is a revelation. The area is gloomier, shabby and littered. The buildings are generally grey with ubiquitous striped awnings. At 5 am people are beginning to gather at bus stops. A few route buses are ready to take passengers to work. A few cafes are ready for customers for their morning boost. The grocer has already piled vegetables and fruits into the raised bons and boxes but has not opened his shop yet. Another is cleaning out the area around his restaurant.

The low down on transformation

In the days of communism functional grey concrete buildings had dominated the landscape. In 2000 the mayor was keen on repairing the city but there was little money available. Being an artist himself he had the idea to paint these buildings in bright colours. That is why Tirana is so colorful.

The area where we are housed in was an upscale area that used to be off-limits to the general population as it was reserved for the Communist elite only. It has evolved into a most desirable  and expensive real estate.

Other notable features:

Public transport seems to be good. The long buses are well maintained and on schedule.

The traffic lights do not always display the iconic walking man but the double headed eagle.

Drivers obey traffic rules, especially at zebra crossings.

Questions answered.

Mother Teresa was not born here, but her family in Albania.

The new mosque that had walked by is The Namazgah Mosque or the Great Mosque of Tirana. It is the largest mosque in the Balkans. We are told that  Turkey built it for Albania.

60  % of the population is Muslim.

An eye opener

One of the wettest and sunniest cities in Europe did not disappoint.  In fact there was a lot to learn about the transformation. Tirana looks like a jumble

of Russia, southern Europe and South America and some modern buildings. there is an explosion of colour metaphorically reflecting the joy  of being rid of communism.