From natural springs into fantastical fountains: celebration of ingenuity, Austria, Russia

Artful and crafty:Trick fountains, Hellbrunn, Salsburg

Playful host
Driving just a few kilometers from Salzburg of Sound of Music renown, we arrive at a seemingly unassuming palace of sorts. The interior with its frescoes on the walls and ceilings of the spacious rooms are reminiscent of the Roman renaissance painters. The Palace had been purpose built to entertain and so was never really occupied per se. The  Prince-Archbishop of Austria certainly had a playful side. He played practical jokes on his unsuspecting noble guests in a  palace built solely for entertainment. The gardens was a hive of tricks.Tantalized to sit at the supper table?  Lured along the walkway leading to an enchanted cave? Frozen by the irresistable beauty of the scupltures from Greek and Roman mythology incorporated into the fountains?  Be warned. Even if you already know what will happen, you will be thorougly drenched, when you least expect it, by the hidden nozzles which shoot water around and over you, or startle you with a cascade  from right above you! Imagine the amused face of the host! Children love to either dodge or surrender completely with glee. 
Note: The guides remain dry! Do they have control?

A Baroque city sprung into action by a natural spring
But, wait, there's  more. A mechanical theatre (no sophisticated computer programmes or remote controls) that incorporates  amazing musical instruments, simulations and dioramas, powered by nothing other than natural water pressure. The  water operated organ that accompanies the mechanical theater, playing an opera song, was built in 1750. It still works without a hitch!  The 163 figures, placed on several rotating tiers, depict the life of a small Baroque city. Figures carry out everyday activities like drawing water, sawing, milling etc.
Along a narrow canal  are 5 dioramas of water driven figures each repeatedly carrying out an everyday task. 
The budding engineer can take a peek behind the scenes to observe the mechanics behind the working parts. All the fountains and dioramas are fed by a natural spring guided through wooden pipes. An engineerIng marvel, indeed.
Man made wonder: Peterhof, St Petersburg 

Begrudging host
Visiting Russia is not so easy. Visas are complicated. Immigration officials do not smile. Yet, it has a rich history and so we book a shore excursion with our cruise line. They took care of the visas for a hefty amount. St Petersburg is known for the Church of the Spilled Blood, the Hermitage, Catherine's winter palace chock-full of world famous paintings and, of course, Peterhof.
It's a long drive from the city along a canal, a flyover, some dilapidated areas in the outskirts, and then a vast expanse of flush greenery. We drive through a treed avenue and gather at the  Grand Cascade with its gold figures glittering with the sunshine and water. The first thing we do is enter the palace. We are relieved of our jackets and bags at the cloakroom. A dour faced woman hands us tokens. We have our headphones to follow our guide's instructions. We enter room after opulent room, each seemingly more resplendant than the other, each with a theme. The walls are covered in printed satin and tapestry over which a thin plastic sheet is laid so that nothing gets tainted by itchy fingers. The ornate details and furnishing are jealously guarded. The attendants are hawk-eyed in protecting the extravagant artifacts. Even though the castle is small it is elaborately appointed. 

Dramatic effect
It is the gardens that delight us more because we are not confined or closely monitored. A 20m jet of water shoots up from the golden lion's mouth held open by Samson, 200 or more other gilded figures ( dolphins, lions etc), 64 fountains, at different levels, surrounding it, flanked by ladder cascades. This is the Grand Cascade  -- a grandiose entrance to the Palace via the stair case curving around it. Adding to the colossal effect is a 12 meter wide canal leading from it to the sea.
There are other cascades and fountains like the Chess board or the Pyramid and even a trick fountain which is activated when an unwary guest sets his foot on a paving tile, dousing him with a cold spray. There are a lot more fountains to marvel at in the gardens but our time is limited because we are on a paid tour and besides we are already exhausted by sensory overdose. 

Astonishing revelation
What is that cave like structure underneath and behind the cascade? 
It houses the enormous pipes that channel water to the fountains. 
Where does the water come from? 
From the hills 24 km away.
Is the water pumped into the pipes?
It runs through locks and canals into reservoirs on the upper terrace.
What makes the jets shoot as high as 21 ms?
Pumps?
No.
Other water lifting devices?
No.
Clue?
The nature of the terrain and fantastic engineering harnessing potential energy. Or simply, gravity.


 


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