Wheeling and dealing: word for word

Navigational hazard

You would have heard of the notorious traffic in Vietnam's  cities. It's a stream of moving cars between heaving rivers of motorbikes, criss-crossed by pedestrians and peddlers of all sorts on bicycles either pedalling or pushing. It can all be very intimidating for the newcomer. 

Attuning to the traffic

Our first experience with such traffic was in HCM city about 10 years ago. We stood waiting patiently for traffic to ease before crossing the road. After about 15 minutes we knew it was futile. And so we inched forward. Lo and behold! The sea didn't part, but the traffic flowed around us. Skilled drivers at low speeds cause little harm. But beware. Do not freeze in the midst of crossing for the motorcyclist may not be able to plan a manoeuvre for something not anticipated. The confusion could cause accidents. 

Unexpected ‘ride’

A friend who was travelling with us was gently hit. Not because she stalled while crossing. It happened even before we started. As usual we checked the traffic in the general flow before putting a step forward and that meant looking to the left. As soon as she put a foot forward she found herself straddling the wheel of a bike that came in the opposite direction! Luckily, no one was hurt. 

So, when you are crossing the road whether at a traffic light or not, just go across looking ahead. Those on wheels will go around you just as water finds a path of natural flow. Blinders are good, but do not close your eyes.

Visiting Vietnam again, this time in Hanoi, we find the same situation. We are jittery only for the first few hours. After that, nothing, not even the honking, bothers us. 

Alternatives: do they exist?

Are there no sidewalks? Of course, there are, but mostly occupied by parked motor bikes, in between the ubiquitous food vendors' temporary restaurants, or the spilling out of a permanent one. Motorists also stop to pick up food as though these vendors and cubby hole cafes were drive-ins. 

Wheels over legs

When you walk into a wholesale market with narrow aisles you expect pedestrians. But in the one I went to, every buyer came on wheels, bargained and purchased while still seated, had the vendor tie up the goods on a rack at the back, and then drove away. This means that the goods are packed in sturdy plastic bags guaranteed not to split while in the process of being transported. Also there is generous use of styrofoam boxes for handling seafood and meat.

Hustling and sidling

In Hanoi's biggest market, Dong Xuan, built in the 19th century by the French, we have to sidle down the aisles to avoid toppling mannequins. We are rudely brushed against by locals who know how to navigate crowds. Beware of pickpockets!

The several levels (housing hundreds of shops) now connected by escalators, are specialised sections  brimming with goods– clothes, shoes, household items, toys, accessories and Vietnamese textiles. The sales women seem to be doing more stocking than selling. 

Organised hodge podge: abundance in quintessential Old Quarter 

The covered market mentioned above is in the Old Quarter surrounded by umpteen streets lined with shophouses chock-full of goods. Each street specialises in a particular category of goods. You name it– soft furnishing, jewellery, textiles, tailors, prayer goods, religious  artefacts, candy, metal cookware, decorations, soft toys, basketry, stickers, soft toys, footwear, disposable packaging, ropes, even travel – they have it. It's amazing how they keep stock, and how the sales women are able fulfil a request or an order within a few mins. The purchaser does not have to leave the perch on his/her motorbike. The transactions are amazingly speedy. Amazing efficiency in what seems to be a labyrinthine layout.

Affordability and utility versus ecofriendliness

You would have seen pictures of motorcycles balancing a ton of goods either in sacks or plastic bags strung together strategically all around the rider. When we walk along the wholesale shops we see piles of clear plastic bags laid out ( to dry?) along the edge of the street. Large bins are overflowing with garbage. They are frequently emptied by the municipality. 

I now know that plastic is either reused or recycled, for the country in embracing a circular economy.