Vivified: Agadir, Morocco, 2014

 Run-of-the-mill 

Our experience in Agadir is totally different from the other ports we visited in Morocco. For starters, the port is far away from the city. As far as we can see only sand and rocks are visible. It is a desert. So we are in a port where there is no point wandering around. There is a shuttle bus to the town.  Should we walk there? Secondly, an elderly couple suggests we share a taxi to take us around the city. We do and we are not disappointed. 

Predictable tourism in a unique port

Our driver-cum-guide drives past the Marina (none of our fellow passengers expresses interest in it). But almost immediately our attention is drawn by huge nets piled on boats, some spilling onto the pier. It is the fishing port. In fact, it is  considered the first sardine port in the world. It is not only the busyness that attracts us but also the auction. It is hard to tell the difference between the auctioneers and the bidders for lack of understanding of their language. Strangely there is only a hint of the sea food odor. The last time we had experienced that was in Helsinki's fish market.

Shipyards: quite an experience

As we drive by we catch glimpses of shipbuilding. Quite curious, we take a stroll down the pier and get to see shipbuilding from the skeleton to the almost completed traditional wooden fishing boats built by hand. It is hard to tell the difference between what is being  built and what is being repaired. We have since found out that shipbuilding, especially of newer and bigger ships with steel hulls, is now considered Morocco's mainstay for its  economy.

Inescapable,  yet wondrous

Of course, our driver-cum-guide does the tour-guide requisite. He takes us to an Argan oil (a highly coveted multi purpose miracle oil) cooperative to show us the traditional methods of production. An expert tells us how unique and precious the tree is to this part of the world, how the kernel is harvested, extracted and processed and, then, its traditional uses. Predictably we are introduced to the other products, including black seed oil ( anti inflammatory and antibacterial) which we are already familiar with, produced or sold in the facility. It is fascinating how the wide array of goods testifies to the popularity of homeopathic treatments.

The return to sightseeing:Mosques 

Our next stop is a mosque. Just like most of Morocco, visitors are not allowed inside, but the façade has us admiring the richly decorated horse-shoe shaped doors. The walls just under the eaves and along the pillars sport blind arcades with intricate stucco carvings made up of calligraphy and decorative patterns mostly in brown and beige. Only when we peek in through the turquoise  grilles at the top of an immense staircase do we see the traditional greens and blues. The roof of green porcelain tiles looks  like a slim edge from below.  It offers a charming outline contrasting with the earthy hues of the facade. 

Lebanese  Mosque

We did not have a tour of this building with a less prominent minaret. Allegedly this mosque welcomes visitors of all faiths and also offers guided tour. 

Kasbah

Next we go up the hills that can be seen from anywhere in the city just as the Alps are in most cities in Austria. We are near the ruins of the ancient Kasbah in the midst of restoration. It is no longer a bustling city with souks, mosques, or a medina. The bulk of the city was destroyed in the earthquake of 1960. Most of the history is gone except for what is displayed in a museum. 

Interestingly, as we go up the hill to simply be in the vicinity of what was once the Kasbah, we are taken to a viewpoint that gives us stunning views of the sea side.

A renewal : the progressive spirit

All is not lost. The destruction of historical structures meant rebuilding. The renewal has included gardens and parks, big hotels and the inclusivity and tolerance of the  Lebanese mosque. Most of the buildings, a mix of the modern and traditional, are white, hence earning the city the nickname  ‘White City'. 

Beach

Finally we take a stroll along the crescent shaped beach which caters to tourism . The 10 km seafront t is a tourist haven complete with magnificent views  of the blue Atlantic waters. The Promenade is broad and it runs all along g the coast starting g from the Marina.

Of note:

One of the symbols of modernity appears in a curious form. What's that strange looking palm tree in the park? It's actually a transmission tower!

Trivia:

 Agadir is famous for the largest collection of beehives in the world. 

Rattled in Rabat, Morocco, 2014

 Expect the unexpected

At the railway ticket counter in Casablanca we are told only cash in local currency will be accepted. So one of us ( a group of 5, 2 men and 3 women)goes to a money changer, gets the necessary cash and then buys the return tickets. We wait in the station that is bright and shiny with clean efficiency.

The country side

Our train ride reveals rural Morocco interspersed with urban areas that reflect the country's development. The farms are in various stages of agriculture depending on the crop. The modest life stock graze peacefully in verdant pastures.Closer to Rabat stands a stadium.

Capital efficiency 

The station at Rabat has typical Moroccan pendant lamps with cast iron detailing at the entrance. It's all very neat and tidy.

As we step out we see clean trams and tram tracks. But the city seems to be compact enough to explore on foot. Again French is widely spoken. Sign boards appear in French as well

A calm before the storm?

The chic of the young women and men going about their business is impressive. But tourists are few and far between. The sum result is that it is calmer than Tangier, not to speak of Marrakech  and Fez  which are, of course, the prime tourist cities for Morocco. As a result we feel very relaxed as we go about.

At a leisurely pace

Ahead of us, as we walk in the general direction of the city centre is the long rampart ubiquitous to Morocco. The square minaret of the Hassan Mosque stands out. That must be the whereabouts of the medina. The minaret stands alone. Of the once exquisite Mosque ( the the second largest in the Islamic world)only the minaret remains. Most of the medieval city was destroyed by the Portugese in the 16th century. Adjacent to it is the mausoleum  of Mohammed V. We simply walk by having already taken in the green roofs from a distance. 

Large gates lead into the palace grounds, replete with enchantingly pruned trees standing majestically along the path while another leads into the medina revealing  and arched walkway. It is cast in shadows with an intermittent golden glow between the pillars. It seems to be gloomy since it is devoid of activity.

Ville Nouvelle: new town

A little further out are white buildings that mark the modern city. Palm lined boulevards and little parks with boxed trees add to the charm. The most interesting building  is the art museum with filigree arches on the verandah surrounding the building, a little like a building you'll find in New Orleans. The French influence.

The ‘storm’: a hasty retreat

Just when we feel we should return to the station for our return journey to Casablanca so as not to miss our boat, we notice that the traffic which had picked up a little earlier has now subsided. There are lots more men walking about. In front of the minaret, out on the lawn, men are seated on their prayer mats ready for prayers. We get strange looks at first. And then we get 10 metre piercing looks. It seems to get more threatening  by the moment. 

All eyes on us, our adrenalin pumping, the missing variable suddenly strikes home: today is a Friday , the holiest day for Muslims. The three women in our group are bare headed.

Tourist etiquette: 

Nothing to it but to make a hasty exit out of respect for the local culture.

Friday evening prayers have brought all the Muslim men to their knees. Women worship in a separate, usually enclosed, area. The city has virtually come to a standstill.

Luckily for us, our train back to Casablanca efficiently runs on schedule .

A bonus with little time to spare

As we return to our ship and feast on tacos we realise that we have local currency that is practically worthless anywhere else but in Morrocco. Casablanca, our present port, is the last stop in Morocco. We have to use  it up. As we entered the port earlier in the day we walked by a huge tented temporary market for Moroccan craft including leather bags. It has started rainng. I grab an umbrella and make a 10 min dash to the only stall that is open. it has leather handbags. Glad that the choice had narrowed, I select one and ask for the price. It is a lot more than the cash I have on hand. The salesman has to close shop. Ideal for bargaining. There is a small remonstrance. I show him the amount I have. He takes it quietly and hands me the bag. I rush back to the ship before the rain begins to pelt, minutes before the gangway is reeled in. 

In ordinary circumstances I would never have bought a leather hand bag. We do not invest in souvniers. What a day of contrasting emotions.

Casablanca, Morocco: Far from romantic

 Where is the romance?

When we arrive at Casablanca, Morocco's chief port, an artificial one, we expect to see Rick's Cafe as in the movie of the same name as the city. In reality, the movie was not shot in Morocco but almost entirely in a Hollywood studio. The cast was international but not a single Moroccan was on the list. No enchanting cafe near us. A blanca (blank) as far as it is related to the movie. 

In the distance we spy a tall minaret glimmeringly sitting partly on water. But something else catches our eye.

A diversion

As we walk out of the port a most beautifully intricate facade, a combination of Islamic art and Art deco beckons more than a once-over. It's the railway station! Walking in we find that a train is due to leave for Rabat, the capital of Morocco. Why not? The ride will take an hour but perhaps we'll be treated to rural scenes.

The visit to Rabat warrants a separate blog

A rich history

Upon our return after several hours we take a stroll towards the medina. As always a minaret beckons. It is actually a square clock tower, conjoined to the rampart, standing ideally between the medina and the French quarters. Walking along the protective walls of the medina, and a gate to its entrance, which we skip, leads us to the French quarters. The clock is special for it emblematically stands for the rich cultural heritage of the city: French colonialism and the then European institutions and culture. Being the residential quarter for expatriates the buildings are said to have been financed  from French ministers, Jewish industrialists, and even Moroccan pashas. Appropriately the architecture is a blend of  French, North Africa, and American.

Living it up: vibrancy

Our 3 km ramble, past the Mohamad V square, leads us further into United Nations Square, radiating from which are several boulevards. A bustling place studded with exclusive shops, hotels and restaurants. It is well connected by the tram system.The architecturally majestic buildings befit the largest city in Morocco, the eighth largest in the Arab world, and also the nation's economic and business centre.  A white spire in the distance is not to be confused with a minaret.

To press it further, noticeably almost every building is white. No denying that it lives up to its name, White (blanca) House(casa), after all! As the name indicates, French is widely spoken in Morocco. Road signs appear in French as well.Manicured squares tree lined boulevards startlingly contrast with the white.

The ‘floating’ edifice

The glimpse we had from the port of a glittering building with a minaret in the far distance is now just beside us but we are cut off by the wall bearing numerous hoardings. All said and done , the Hassan Ii Mosque is not something we are going to visit. For one it is late in the day and we may not be able to take it all in before we set sail.

Situated right on the shore of the Atlantic Ocean. It is  the second largest mosque  in Africa, the seventh largest in the world. Its minaret is the second largest in the world.

The stupendousness of it all hits home when in the realisation that the vast complex encompasses a madrasa (religious school), museum, conference facility, library, and hammams! Virtually a city in itself.

Unfortunately, the interior of the mosque can only be visited on a guided tour. Fortunately for us we have no regrets not visiting it.

But it is not all white and sleek

A little detour into a side street lined with cars and elegant homes leads into the old medina that shockingly reveals dilapidated homes. It is all quite eerie as we do not see anyone out and about. Right next to the royal palace of Casablanca which is closed to the public. But there are cats, and then cats!  Had we come earlier in the day we would probably have seen a little  more life especially with what looked like little shops. It was a Friday after all – a sacred day for Muslims.

Wound in a Culture: Tangier, Morocco (2014)

The ascent 

As we disembark at the Port of Tangiers a wide road devoid of cars and pedestrians leads our eyes to a fort-like structure on the hill, overlooking the buildings on the slopes. Our strategy has always been to tackle the strenuous first and then ease our way down. So here we go. Right beside us is a road leading up the slope lined with official looking large buildings. One of the buildings that makes us pause has Spanish Architecture and colours. We continue our walk uphill, simply following the curvy road. 

We arrive at flat land with green lawns and gardens, having passed by a Jewish cemetery. St Andrews English church is nearby. This is Mendobia garden.

As we sit in the park to catch our breath there's much activity in the open air market around us. We are just above the Grand Socco (souk/market) filled with shops and stalls overflowing with fruits, vegetables, ceramics, spices, clothes etc. Just down the slope beside us is a pick up truck loaded with bright golden oranges making a brisk sale. Tea shops are patronised by men sitting all day chatting. Hardly any women there. The few women out and about are either selling or buying.  Shouldn't be surprised.

Protector of the city: All gates lead to the Medina

As we walk further up a slope lined with houses and a staircase sidewalk with lush orange trees, in full foliage dotted with gold globes, planted at regular intervals, we are on the outside of the ramparts and towers that were visible from the port. A gate and a notice board are close by. It's a map of all the 8 gates from the Royal Citadel (Kasbah) into the old town (Medina). Taking a chance with the nearest one, Bab(gate) Kasbah, just a few steps away, we enter to find ourselves in the Kasbah courtyard with its historic towers.

The commercial and cultural centre

Another Bab leads us into the Medina. What we see are winding alleyways, some so narrow we have to walk single file. In some parts the paths are arched over. In others staircases lead to the different levels. 

America's historic first

We have just passed by what we think is just another Moorish building with an impressive wooden door topped by colourful tiles.. We are surprised that it is the Tangier American Legation building. The United States diplomatic mission to Morocco was originally housed here. It bears the fame of being the very first American public property outside the US. It is also the only U.S. National Historic Landmark in a foreign country. Presently it is a museum.

Life in the spiral

There are street lights and running water in spite of the tightly knitted streets.. Doors of most of the dwellings are closed. Some have plants adorning their outside walls. In wider areas children find space to play. We even see a crib against an outside wall.

Traffic.

Mostly pedestrian but there are cyclists and an occasional motorbike too! No harmful fumes. We can walk forever, if only we could be sure we can find our way back to the port well before departure time. It would never do to miss the boat.!

All Quiet 

Vegetable and fruit shops have basket lined fronts. Carpet shops display samples on the outside walls. Arrays of colourful Morrocan shoes line another opening. Most pleasing is the fact that the salesmen are not pushy or loud. We are not hassled by touts hindering  us from savouring the splendour and cultural richness of it all.

Tourist etiquette 

At one point, as a group of tourists pass by a blue door, a woman seen through a crack in the door angrily tells people not to look into their private space. Responsible visitors have to remember that this a Muslim country and anything to do with Muslim culture is highly sensitive.

As though to reinforce it, the incident happens close to the ancient mosque with its green minaret and doors.

We are lost

When we think we've seen it all we try to find our way back to the port. It has to be easy for we have only to follow paths going downhill. We get it all wrong. It gets very confusing. The labyrinthine network of cobblestoned streets throws us off. Our best bet is to look for a gate, peek out, get our bearings, and then try again. 

Gateway to discovery

We do find a gate. Not done yet. We have more to savour. We are at the crumbling walls facing the Strait of Gibraltar and the Mediterranean sea with a view of Spain across the waters. We should be able to see the African coast too. Below us, somewhere further away are ancient Phonecian tombs. Over a sandy ridge are two dromedaries waiting for rides! Another view gives us a clear view of the path that took us from the port to the Kasbah.

Sounds of the city

We have our bearings now. Back we go into the Medina and tackle the streets with more confidence. We can still get lost. Sounds of the modern city, motorbikes honking and revving up their engines, clearly indicate that we are almost out of what seems like the bowels of a city.

Now we are on the broader streets leading to a wide promenade. The bigger shops are all her. More carpets, harem pants, vibrant tapestry and leather goods. The downhill walk offers us a vista of the enticing bright blue Mediterranean  Sea.

Geographical location

From the upper levels of the Medina, on a clear day, both the continents of Africa and Europe can be seen. Except at the Gardens we did not see lawns in the city.

The tapestry that is Tangiers 

Definitely the fact that it is not crowded with tourists.

All the signs are in French as well as Arabic

It is  immersive in that it reflects a rich history in its bustling souks and  historical buildings depicting various architectural styles all within the Medina. There is a unique blend of Moroccan, Arab and European influences all reflecting the past, from the Phonecian origins  to the Romans and then the Arabs. It was later occupied by the Portuguese, passed on to the Spanish and then gifted to the English as a dowry and then taken over by a Sultan. No wonder it has a vibrant culture.