Vivified: Agadir, Morocco, 2014

 Run-of-the-mill 

Our experience in Agadir is totally different from the other ports we visited in Morocco. For starters, the port is far away from the city. As far as we can see only sand and rocks are visible. It is a desert. So we are in a port where there is no point wandering around. There is a shuttle bus to the town.  Should we walk there? Secondly, an elderly couple suggests we share a taxi to take us around the city. We do and we are not disappointed. 

Predictable tourism in a unique port

Our driver-cum-guide drives past the Marina (none of our fellow passengers expresses interest in it). But almost immediately our attention is drawn by huge nets piled on boats, some spilling onto the pier. It is the fishing port. In fact, it is  considered the first sardine port in the world. It is not only the busyness that attracts us but also the auction. It is hard to tell the difference between the auctioneers and the bidders for lack of understanding of their language. Strangely there is only a hint of the sea food odor. The last time we had experienced that was in Helsinki's fish market.

Shipyards: quite an experience

As we drive by we catch glimpses of shipbuilding. Quite curious, we take a stroll down the pier and get to see shipbuilding from the skeleton to the almost completed traditional wooden fishing boats built by hand. It is hard to tell the difference between what is being  built and what is being repaired. We have since found out that shipbuilding, especially of newer and bigger ships with steel hulls, is now considered Morocco's mainstay for its  economy.

Inescapable,  yet wondrous

Of course, our driver-cum-guide does the tour-guide requisite. He takes us to an Argan oil (a highly coveted multi purpose miracle oil) cooperative to show us the traditional methods of production. An expert tells us how unique and precious the tree is to this part of the world, how the kernel is harvested, extracted and processed and, then, its traditional uses. Predictably we are introduced to the other products, including black seed oil ( anti inflammatory and antibacterial) which we are already familiar with, produced or sold in the facility. It is fascinating how the wide array of goods testifies to the popularity of homeopathic treatments.

The return to sightseeing:Mosques 

Our next stop is a mosque. Just like most of Morocco, visitors are not allowed inside, but the façade has us admiring the richly decorated horse-shoe shaped doors. The walls just under the eaves and along the pillars sport blind arcades with intricate stucco carvings made up of calligraphy and decorative patterns mostly in brown and beige. Only when we peek in through the turquoise  grilles at the top of an immense staircase do we see the traditional greens and blues. The roof of green porcelain tiles looks  like a slim edge from below.  It offers a charming outline contrasting with the earthy hues of the facade. 

Lebanese  Mosque

We did not have a tour of this building with a less prominent minaret. Allegedly this mosque welcomes visitors of all faiths and also offers guided tour. 

Kasbah

Next we go up the hills that can be seen from anywhere in the city just as the Alps are in most cities in Austria. We are near the ruins of the ancient Kasbah in the midst of restoration. It is no longer a bustling city with souks, mosques, or a medina. The bulk of the city was destroyed in the earthquake of 1960. Most of the history is gone except for what is displayed in a museum. 

Interestingly, as we go up the hill to simply be in the vicinity of what was once the Kasbah, we are taken to a viewpoint that gives us stunning views of the sea side.

A renewal : the progressive spirit

All is not lost. The destruction of historical structures meant rebuilding. The renewal has included gardens and parks, big hotels and the inclusivity and tolerance of the  Lebanese mosque. Most of the buildings, a mix of the modern and traditional, are white, hence earning the city the nickname  ‘White City'. 

Beach

Finally we take a stroll along the crescent shaped beach which caters to tourism . The 10 km seafront t is a tourist haven complete with magnificent views  of the blue Atlantic waters. The Promenade is broad and it runs all along g the coast starting g from the Marina.

Of note:

One of the symbols of modernity appears in a curious form. What's that strange looking palm tree in the park? It's actually a transmission tower!

Trivia:

 Agadir is famous for the largest collection of beehives in the world.