Voilà! Paris, we are here
Driving down from Brussels, Belgium, we arrive late having got caught in the traffic jam near Charles de Gaulle Airport. We missed the agent by more than an hour at the building where our AirBnb apt is. We have no clue as to where to park our rental vehicle. All the lots along our road are taken. Being a one way street the driver had to go all the way around the building
Which meant going into mainstream traffic and then trying to maneuver several lanes so as not to miss the turn into our area. It takes nearly 30 mins. Meanwhile the older grandson spots a car pulling out and he immediately makes his way to the empty space and stands there to stake a claim! As luck would have it we meet a young woman walking into the building who kindly calls our agent. After what seems like ages he turns up and cheerfully passes on the keys for the particular apartment. It happens to be on the ground floor. Raising the shutters we are heartened to see that the windows favourably open out to the very road on which we have parked. We find it easier to pass our bags in through the wide open windows than to keep repeatedly opening three consecutive doors to enter the apt.
A pricey historical neighbourhood once a swamp
It is late evening. People are walking about probably returning from work or going about their evening activities. Most of the pedestrians we see are obviously Jewish: side-curled and skull-capped males in suits,females in modest skirts and blouses with some sporting headscarves. No wonder since France has the world's 3rd biggest Jewish population.
This stylish and chic area is called Le Marais (the “Swamp”). It is the place where Jews found refuge during the Middle Ages. The aristocratic residences they built have since been divided into small apartments. It transpires that we are occupying one of the most expensive real estates in the world!
We are not sure about the parking rules in the vicinity. Rather than take a chance we find a garage a few minutes away. We can sleep well knowing that the car is legally parked.
It is a pity that we have only two whole days in Paris. We will have to miss out on ambling through this most popular neighbourhood. Hunger leads us to a boulangerie where we have a pick of Parisian patisseries for dinner.
Wallet weary
We are close to many iconic Parisian landmarks.
The next morning we walk to the main thoroughfare and thence to the Metro. Our plan is to get a 3 day ticket each. Drink pulls out his wallet to slide out a few Euros. The agent at the ticket counter agitatedly asks him to put the wallet away immediately and to keep a close eye on it. He is warning us about the frequent pick pocketing incidents on the Metro of which we have heard much about. We should literally hold on tight to our wallets.
The word metro now used in 55 countries is a derivative of Metropolitan ( Greek ‘mother city’)
Stepping back in time
The Metro is very affordable and convenient once we get used to the individual metro maps. It is surprising how the old underground metro stations continue to function without modern amenities like elevators. The beautiful old stations from the 1900s still work flawlessly. Young parents deftly pick up perambulators and climb up the stairs. Older folk carry heavy luggage up the stairs. Sinewed and resolute indeed.
Grand old Notre Dame ( Our lady of Paris)
Only a short train ride away and still in the Jewish quarter. Walking along the Seine we spy two islands,Ile de la Cité and Ile Saint-Louis, and the unmistakable steeple and Bell towers of the ubiquitous Notre Dame on the former. Trudging along the Pont Neuf( New Bridge) we join the crowds waiting in line to enter the building. Had we entered I would have seen first hand what inspired Victor Hugo’s The Hunchback of Notre Dame. We opted to spend time gazing at the 12 century Gothic architecture, intricate statuary, the facade (particularly the details of The Last Judgement on the central portal) the bell towers, the stained glass rose windows and the flying buttresses.
Bloody history of a chic neighbourhood
This island, the birthplace of Paris, also bears the Gothic Sainte-Chapelle, and the site of the prison where Marie Antoinette was held before being beheaded for treason. “If you are out of bread eat cake instead”, she said to the poor multitudes. It would have been gracious had she offered the cake.That's how disconnected the last queen of France was with her subjects. Is it any wonder that the frivolous queen fell out of favour?
Yet another of the multitude of bridges, old and new, connects this island with the other. A quick walk reveals its bucolic nature.
Another grand dame
Wandering along the river bank we find ourselves in a large, sunny,beautiful square. The fountains burble and tinkle adding to the majesty of the building they grace. It is the famed Hotel de Ville, the town hall that characterises Parisian history and culture in all its grandeur through its Renaissance facade.
Bastille Battle Cry: "Liberty, Equality, Fraternity.”
We now board a bus that should take us to the historical fortress. The aristocratic and vibrant Jewish quarter has been left behind. This is the working class district, the setting for the rebellion by Parisians who stormed the heavy wooden gates of the fortress to show their anger towards the despotic monarchy and dire economic conditions. The battle cry was said to be"Liberty, Equality, Fraternity, or Death.” The last word was removed to soften the implications of excessive violence.
But where is the royal fortress that also housed the prison?
The only evidence we have at the historic site is the July Column topped by Génie de la Liberté (the spirit of freedom). The square is surrounded by galleries, some under renovation. The only remnants have become paving stones in the square and underground metro platforms. Today the Place de la Bastille is populated by zebra striped cylindrical concrete perches. We are told that the nearly empty square transforms into a bustling nightlife spot.
Provocative vicinity: off the beaten path
We are in reality right behind the Palais Royal where the famed Louvre is. There is hardly anyone in the gardens surrounding it. We are away from all the hustle and bustle strolling through manicured gardens and gurgling fountains that are practically devoid of visitors.
Then a row of houses with their ubiquitous chimneys visible above the tall hedges call for attention. The story is that just before the French Revolution the Palace passed on to the Duke of Orleans. The womaniser quickly ran out of cash. Hence he built blocks of rental apartments, with shops on the ground floor, around three sides of the Royal Gardens. He also connected the gardens to the Opera House. Astute indeed!
Latin quarter: Pizza a la France?!
Our grandsons have decided on Pizza for lunch. The 9 year old decides to use his Google Maps to find us one. We will find one in the Latin Quarter, of course. None of the others in our family group has a smartphone, and this is the year 2015! He leads. The route takes us to the left bank of the Seine, over one of the modern bridges, through cobbled alleyways, narrow streets, and historic architecture. After some doubtful turns and frequent technical hiccups we arrive only to find the restaurant closed for renovations. Not one to give up, with a little more fumbling he finds a Café that serves Pizza. The prim waiter, with a towel folded over his arm, takes our orders. He is a little taken aback that we do not order water or soda. For the first time in our life, perhaps also the last, we dig into pizza with forks and knives.
Well, we had a meal in a Parisian Cafe, not Al Fresco, and managed to befuddle the waiter.
That we are in the vicinity of the Sorbonne makes no difference to the young ones.
Louvre: a treasure trove
And then we are ready to take on one of the world's oldest and largest museums with exhibits from around the world. The metro entrance from which we emerge is an unmistakable clue that we are at the Louvre. It is a Fairy tale-like structure that looks like a domed carriage made of strung lustrous baubles of all sizes and colours. Then, of course there is the distinct transparent pyramid.
Gratis: kind, courteous and thoughtful
As we enter we are awed by the size of the atrium. We know that the children have free entry. Even as we take a few steps forward a couple just leaving thrusts their tickets towards us, “ Please use these. They are valid till the museum closes for the day”.
The elusive Mona Lisa
One grandchild has evinced interest in art, especially painting and so we decide to explore the Renaissance wing. One of the deciding factors is that the Mona Lisa falls into the category. The halls are long and lined appropriately with seating from which to ponder over the works that so realistically and aesthetically portray the aesthetic ideals of the ancient world through conjuring up transcendent and serene settings.
The little ones have had a sampling and now they can't wait to see the Mona Lisa. They go quite close to every portrait to inspect. But the Mona Lisa remains elusive. Where is the crowd? We dare not take a turn into some of the branching corridors in case we mistakenly enter another section and miss Mona Lisa entirely. The children are already beginning to drag their feet and droop their heads. Oh! There's a crowd there. It's worth checking. The crowd is made of various tour groups each with its own guide shouting over and above the others. Did we hear the ML word? The children wedge their way through the crowd to reach a rope that is cordoning off an area of about a 2 metre radius. And there hangs the elusive painting. Do we need binoculars to study the painting?
After the iconic painting we move on to more paintings like the Wedding feast at Cana and then to the frescoes which lead us to ancient marble statues like the Caryatids and Venus de Milo. By the time we reach the Egyptian exhibits the children are dog tired and so are we. We have to call it a day.
Everything in one place
Paris is so easy to get around. Everything that makes Paris the city is accessible through an efficient metro network and bus routes. Also available are bicycles for rent. The iconic buildings are all within walking distance.
Thirsty? There's always a Wallace fountain. Need a washroom break? There's a clean one nearby but you may have to look for it.
End of day 1.
My next blog will cover Day 2.
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