Ho Chi Min to Vung Tau: Vietnam unveiled (1), 2010

A private beach, personal attention

A 4 hour drive from HCM takes us to Vung Tau- Loc An Resort.Our B&B has large rooms spread over two floors. We are a group of 6.The landscaped garden and gazebos provide some respite from the relentless heat. We are actually in a secluded wooded area in a remote corner of the famed Vung Tau beach which is not at all visible from here.  The owners and the kitchen helpers happily let us into the kitchen to guide them as to how we would like our eggs and toast done.The person sitting in the kitchen where we place the orders for our food, speaks a smattering of English. We manage to communicate. Apparently he has a daughter in the US and a son in Australia. We find out later that he owns the hotel. His wife too speaks a little English. We can walk into the kitchen any time and fill our bottles with boiled water cooling in a huge drum with a tap at the bottom; we also get a flask of hot water for each room where s\we can make our own coffee or tea. They also prepare a sumptuous lunch which we savour in the small cosy pavilion enjoying a natural breeze.

We do have a private beach that disappears

We take a walk along the beach though it is already dark. When we drive by next day we foid that it had been low tide, and at high tide there would have been no sandy beach at all, at least at that spot! Later we walk back to the isolated beach to be washed over by the waves-I am reluctant to go further than two meters from the shore because the sea might suddenly become deeper and none of us were swimmers. But the waves were pretty high and we allowed the sea to propel us a few inches towards the shore and back again!

Boat ride to shell trawl

The sampan belongs to the resort and the beach on theother side of the back waters also belongs to the resort. A long pole that hits the bottom of the lake every now and then propels us forward.

Walking along the beach we watch folk trawl in heavy nets filled with shells . It’s backbreaking work. A very long tubular net fitted to a triangular frame at the top is thrust into the water where the folk have crated temporary trenches with their feet and their frames; when the waves rush back into the sea the sea shells are washed into the nets. It takes two people to drag the nets onto the shore and tip the contents into sacks, Each had about three sacks of shell which they would probably use to prepare white wash. The more perfect shells would perhaps be used to make decorative items

Burrow might versus tech might

Since we have a hired van with a driver, we drive to the Long Phuoc Tunnels, not connected to the more famed Cu Chi tunnels but equally vital in fending off enemies, especially because Vung tau was the naval military base for the western forces.We manage to follow an Australian who is married to a Vietnamese woman and who runs a restaurant in Vung Tau. If not for him we wouldn't have known about the amphitheatre and the hideout of the soldiers. But we lose him because we are distracted by other things. Then we are followed by a few Vietnamese children and they happily keep us company in an otherwise lonely route.

 It is a huge rocky area dotted with shade trees and broad steps which is, of course, the amphitheatre.Young people are picnicking. Our wandering takes us to an exposed tunnel with models of soldiers. These tunnels are larger than those at Cu Chi which might accommodate Incas, not the hefty who will have to scuttle in a crouch  through a space 1.2 meters in height and 0.6 and 0.8 meters in width, making it large enough to accommodate Vietnamese soldiers but too small for any enemy trespassing. We can imagine how  swift footed stealth took the fighters between rocks and trees when they surfaced.It's amazing how the grit of the Vietcong and these clever tunnels that include living areas, kitchens and other common areas helped them overcome their technologically more powerful combatants.

That evening we enjoy a steam boat dinner t a resort hotel.

Imposing Redeemer

Next day we drive to Vung Tau city centre, about 20 mins away from our accommodation. From there it's only a few minutes to the famed beach dotted with portable hammocks and foldable beach chairs for rent by the hour.As we sit on the chairs an attendant comes buy and sells us tickets for the use of deck chairs. He pins the tickets to the back of the chairs and then saunters off. We all doze off for nearly an hour

Walking along the beach we notice a statue of Jesus Christ on a hill, something the waitress from the day before had told us about. It is certainly not a copy of Brazil's Christ the Redeemer, but at that time the tallest in Asia. We decide to take up the challenge of 800 steps. Another 133 spiral steps within would lead us to the statue's shoulder. But we are already content with the panoramic views and the breeze at the top.

No respite in a chain store

Tired, we think we should try starbucks which would certainly be cheaper than the chain stores in developed countries. It's a hot walk downtown. Another in our small group gets some cold soda. None of us really cares for the chain anyway and so our choice was only a brownie that we share. 

Our driver, who doesn't speak a word of English, cracks up whenever we gesture to him that we are hungry and need to stop. We have dinner at the same resort but we make individual orders from the menu so we could taste a variety of dishes, including what we thought we could palette from the local cuisine.

My next post will take DRink  and me to Dalat.

Lerwick,Shetland Islands: loch, broch and pony

The anticipation

As we approach the harbour it is clear that we are going to experience yet another beautiful undulating island with rolling hills and stone and mortar buildings. What has this island in store for us?  We are at Lerwick, the capital of Shetland Islands, Scotland, about 200 km from the mainland.

Reality

As soon as we disembark it is obvious that we are on Commercial street. The flagstoned street is lined with craft shops and cafés, strung with bunting.  Will the rest of Lerwick be as charming?

Gladdened: poetic justice

We decide to take the winding, flagstone paved, commercial street lined with enchanting ancient buildings paralleling the sea front for the undulations naturally imitate the gentle waves of the sea. The series of narrow lanes, appropriately called closes, leads us through the old town with 18th and 19th century buildings huddled together tightly. 

Acclimatised accommodation: clustered and cloistered

Adding to the charm is the crookedness of the buildings and their erratic positions. Even the streets have different widths and slopes along the same stretch. Well, Lerwick is known for windiness. I was told by the librarian that the wind takes on various characters and blows unpredictably every which way with varying intensity. Hence the  robust buildings and  doors placed strategically in narrow sheltered lanes to avoid the direct path of the wind and give respite from the sea. Wouldn't living in clusters create a close community with a strong identity? There's  no denying that the character of the wind has bestowed a quaint touch to the old town.

Denotation Enigma

Compounding the enchantment are the alleys ( da lanes) which have baffling names, as well as an alternative name. In actuality, the street signs display both the old and new names for the streets and alleys.

The postmen must be well versed in them. Makes me wonder if there's a system to their sorting, if not technical, or they are as good as the London taxi driver. Perhaps their knowledge of local history is excellent, for the clue to the quirkiness is to be found in the history of the islands.

Amusing Chronicles

In the 17th century Lerwick was initially established as a seaport to trade fish with the Dutch Fishing Fleet. This original  settlement was largely a collection of timber huts. Then it was mortgaged by Denmark to Scotland! In the mid seventeenth century a military outpost was established, Fort Charlotte and around it the first stone buildings constructed. In the 19th century the Police Commissioners voted to modernise the names.

Betty Mann's Closs became Crooked Lane. 

Leather Lane became Union street. 

Sheriff's Closs became Law Lane. 

Steep Closs became Hang Cliff Lane.

Yet another wonder: beach between Lodberries

At the end of Commercial Street (Da Lane) we are met with a small tidy beach flanked by old stone houses standing on the sea. These  lodberries are stone merchant houses built on the seafront by merchants in the 18th century. They reach into the water with their jetties over the shingle beach. This made it easy for their haul to be dropped straight from the boats into dry storage.

Loot to boot

The Lodberries also had another underground function. They were often used to smuggle tea, tobacco, and other goods onto the island. The merchants who lived on Commercial Street even had secret tunnels built from the lodberries into their homes so that they could move their cargo unnoticed.

We walk towards Commercial Road to take in Charlotte's fort. On the way we pass Town Hall, an aristocratic building. The doors are closed. Assuming it is not open to visitors we walk past, just admiring the façade.

Fort Charlotte: fathoming the plumbing

In the mid seventeenth the fort was built as a military outpost was established. It was rebuilt after its first war and the again after a second war when it was named Fort Charlotte. It has not been manned since.What had dominated the shoreline is now in the heart of the town, the town having grown around it. The pentagonal layout is well preserved. There is a panoramic view of Brassey Island.

But what caught my eye most was how nature( ocean waves) took care of flushing out nature's calls

Repurposed

A little later we find ourselves opposite the peer at the Tollbooth. Yes, it was built to collect taxes, but it has served as a jail, museum, post office, etc. Now the navy has taken it over for one of its branches.

Oil industry fuels modern town

We now enter the modern town.traditional occupation did not meet family needs but the discovery of oil immediately opened up avenues. The Co7ncil gained from the oil industry and dutifully invested it in infrastructure, housing and schools. We come across a modern school, a rugby club. Lo and behold! we find ourselves at a lake. We decide to walk around it. We walk quite some time before we realize that  very few people are up and about. As we pass by some of the new houses along the lake we see some life.

The elusive animal:short and sturdy

We spent nearly a whole day in town. Where are the Shetland ponies that have roamed the island for 4000 years?  Just as I was about to give up hope, one stands contentedly grazing right beside me. It's nowhere near the Arabian breeds that are elegant. This workhorse is shaggy, has short legs, and is only slightly more than a metre tall. After all, they were mostly used for carrying heavy items in slung baskets.

There are not many around for they are in the crofts (small farms) farther from town.

Broch in a loch

A few metres more and we face a circular structure. A 2000 year old (iron age)  stone fortification that waS probably built  by some wealthy person to show his wealth and power. It is said to be double walled, the interior l8ned with living quarters around a central court. Being in a loch it was not accessible until a causeway was built. We were at the causeway but decided to Forgo a visit. We are quite counted to be in the vicinity.

A peek turns to disbelief

We are back at the town hall.there is some movement at the doors, so we decide to go for it. Surprise. Anyone can go in  through the doors that seemed tightly shut. How mislead we were! We should have come to the doorstep to check. But here we are. The climb up the hilly polished wooden staircase leads to a massive function room. I'm stunned by the stained glass windows that depict the colourful history of Shetland Islands. These impressive works of art are accompanied by relevant information.

The fifteen panels around the main hall occupying the whole of this floor, depict the early history of the islands through the major figures like the Norse kings and earls. There is no way we would have known about the stunning hall for little of the brilliance is visible from the outside.

Lerwick flower par

In our wanderings we come across The Jubilee Flower Park that also has a bowling green and other recreational facilities. The park had started off as a piece of waste ground which was to be used for housing. However the Council bought it for recreational purposes. It is a beautiful setting for walks.

Trivia

1. The lodberries  have been made famous by the BBC TV series called Shetlands. Jimmy perez who stars as the detective inspector lives in one of the Lodberries

2. Lerwick has a population of about 10,000 in total but the town is quiet for about half  the population lives in a radius of 10 miles. It is vibrant in the newer parts of town. Hence there is no crowd anywhere in the old town.

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Torshavn, Faroe islands: an unassuming bureau (2019)

 A far away borough

When cruising the fjords Torshavn, in the Faroe Islands, was on our itinerary. We knew very little about the island except what we gleaned from a tour excursion promotional talk which went over our heads. 

A walk about in the downtown area should give us an idea and then we'll wing it from there.

Stumbling upon the magical: ocean on the doorstep

As we approach the port we are galvanized by charming red buildings with green roofs. A not so distant lighthouse also beckons. It is very clear where we are going to start our journey to discovery and our route there onwards.

We skip the downtown area and head towards the enticing buildings. They are actually built on the rocks of a promontory. These crammed wooden buildings with delightful sod roofs were originally warehouses. They have now been converted to house the Government of the Faroe islands. We could easily have missed the prime minister's office since the narrow cobble-stoned alleyways, some leading under equally narrow, covered, windowed overhead corridors connecting adjacent buildings are all too much to take in at a glance and make sense of. Of course, that meant stumbling upon beautiful surprises. That includes the unassuming (but attractive nevertheless) staircased Prime Minister’s Office and the half-timbered Danish style 17th century vicarage.

Intimate and understated

The promontory, named Tinganese, also boasts the oldest Parliament in the world. Politicians have met here for more than a thousand years.

It is amazing that a country is ruled from unassuming quarters, while most of the world insists on outrageously opulent buildings for the same purpose! The office buildings seem crowded together but in spite of the narrow paths there is no crowd to weave through and nudge against.

Skankin fortress: backdrops to the town

Our walk away from the Tinganese old town leads us seamlessly towards the lighthouse atop a hill. We first reach the fortress of which only a few grassy mounds remain. The lighthouse is on yet another mound a little above the fortress. It overlooks the town and provides sweeping vistas of the harbour and the sea. In fact, the facility was built in 1580 in order to protect the city against pirates. Ever since World War II when the British army stationed some cannons here the mound has been used primarily for gun salutes.

Free range native hens, sedate pace

Back in town, adjacent to the old town is a group of squat black tarred buildings with white-framed windows under turf roofs. The alleyways are still traversed by hens which they've been doing since time immemorial. These traditional dwellings are small for practical reasons. Timber is scarce on the islands and they are easier to heat. The governor’s house is in the vicinity. A grotto graces the front yard of his home.

Apart from these dwellings and government offices there are also numerous other reconstructed buildings in traditional Faroese architecture. Of these, the most iconic is Torshavn Cathedral. The second oldest (19th century) church in the islands, it has a sky blue ceiling matching the ocean around it. Models of ships symbolic of the sea faring people are suspended from it. At the altar is the Last Supper. The quiet, sublime and respectful atmosphere is partly attributable to the organ pipe ranks that stand stately in the upper gallery.

Trappan park: a mini forest in a treeless land

Forests are rare in the Faroe Islands. But a beautifully designed city park is the proud home to one. It is a little patch of trees at the top of a picturesque winding stairway from where we are treated to breathtaking views of the harbour and the dramatic coastline.Trappan, the beautifully designed city park in Tórshavn, serves as a vibrant testament to the stunning natural beauty and rich cultural heritage of the Faroe Islands. No doubt, the lights add to the charm in the evenings.

The National Library 

For most cruisers the public library is a must visit, especially for the wifi. The vibrant colours and a plethora of events makes it a well visited facility. The librarian tells me that the organisation's main task is to collect, record, preserve, and disseminate knowledge of literature related to the Faroe Islands. It is no surprise then that The National Library also functions as a research library.

Native wool

We then traipse back to the ship for lunch. As we do we summarily pass by the various boutiques and galleries with their attractive displays of sweaters and craft all incorporating designs inspired by the islands’ rugged landscapes and rich history. The sweaters are made from the wool of native sheep known for their soft inner wool and coarser outer wool as you can tell from the picture.

Idyllic coast that is mostly cliff

Energised by lunch we walk along the cliffs overlooking the coast for more vistas. The idyllic nature of the surroundings, is augmented by Hans Pauli Olsen's sculptures. There are many more miniature painted rocks.  Down some of the slopes native sheep graze contently while native fowl snuggle comfortably in their alluring grassy surroundings overlooking the ocean 

The facts:

At the start of the visit I had made a mental note to read up on the Faroe Islands to correct the gap in my knowledge and I thought these to be interesting:

• The archipelago is made up of 18 islands
• The islands belong  to Denmark but are self-governed
• They are nestled in the Atlantic Ocean, halfway between Iceland and Norway
• Tórshavn, on Streymoy Island, is the capital city 
• Of the population of 40,000. more than half live in the town itself. No wonder there is plenty of elbow room.
• Faroese derives from Old Norse and is closely related to Icelandic, Norwegian, Danish and Swedish. Not surprisingly,Icelandic, Norwegian and Swedish are understood and spoken in many places, and most people are capable of communicating in English too. 

Hanoi: exquisite artistic atmosphere

Immersive storytelling

Just a day after our arrival, after having visited the touristy Ngoc Son Temple on  Hoan Kiem lake, I notice that we seemed to be close to Mural Street. A street dedicated to murals definitely needs exploration. Could it be something like in Sao Paulo? Drink isn't interested. Consulting Google maps, while still connected to the local wifi, I work out the route, commiting names and directions to memory. With very slight confusion, only because I wasn't quite familiar with the area, I almost walk past the first few murals simply because I don't know where to look. It takes me a while to realize the paintings are so realistic that they blend seamlessly into the life around them . A closer look reveals the wood canvas on which artists depicted scenes from history, local folklore,and daily life. Everyday aspects stand out in vibrant colours and in three-D for they also include structural elements that pop out. It's as though the artists have woven a tapestry showcasing the cultural heritage of the historic city. 

While strolling back ‘home’ I noticed locals playing traditional board games. The storytelling theme becomes as vivid as it can because anyone can join the locals and learn to play these games immersing themselves into the culture. 

Missing the obvious: a daunting venture

Having heard of the Ceramic Murals we decide it is time to look for them. You can’t miss them on the drive from the airport into Hanoi, but we did. 

We walk into the city centre for the map indicated that it began somewhere there.We have to ask at a boutique whose sales-girls kindly show us the way. It is quite complicated but we do find the murals on the other side of the highway confronting us. At the intersection where a ramp meets the highway  we have a few nerve wracking moments figuring out how to get as close as possible to the said murals without getting into an accident for we are actually on a highway with motorbikes, cars and trucks  bumper to bumper, whizzing by and impatiently honking at each other.

We decide not to cross it and it's a good thing too for these murals are better appreciated from a distance. We walk along the narrow uneven curb performing a dangerous balancing act every now and then. There is no visible end to the Ceramic Murals. 

Is there a way to get off the highway? We find a small break in the curb, with rough stones set down like stairs on the downward slope. Hoping they were steady we manage to wobble down onto the side road. This is probably an improvised shortcut created by impatient locals living across the highway. It serves us well.

Surprise at our doorstep 

We think  we should call it a day. Since we are now more familiar with the terrain we are able to find our way back home easily. And then we see more of these murals! The wall is actually part of the Red River dike system protecting the historic centre. To our surprise our accommodation is on the other side of the wall. Had we started from here it would have been a little easier and  we would have walked right beside the murals all the way to the city centre. But there would  be no escaping the traffic conundrum.

The next day we take up where we left off and continue to walk along the murals which takes us towards the Long Bien market ( described in a previous blog) and thence under the famous Long Bien bridge. 

A spectrum

The murals  cover nearly a 7 km stretch of which we did nearly 5. When we identify cultural icons from various countries it becomes clear that this long stretch of murals is no ordinary feat. The Hanoi mosaics not only  show different periods of Vietnamese history and  iconic scenes, but also tributes from other countries with their unique designs. 

Is it any wonder then that the mega pictorialisation created to celebrate Hanoi’s millennium anniversary in 2021, has earned it the Guinness World Record for the largest ceramic mosaic?  

 

Inextricably intertwined: art and culture and religion 

The mosaics continue with us as we walk towards West Lake, the biggest freshwater lake in Hanoi. As we approach it we are surrounded by posh restaurants and hotels interspersed with lush gardens and opulent villas. But the Tran Quoc pagoda nestled on an  islet charms us no end.

Founded in the 6th century it was relocated in the 17th century to escape the silt of the Red River. Renamed asTran Quoc (National Defense), it has evolved into a symbol of resilience and spiritual continuity. In its garden stands a Bodhi tree( a gift from India), said to be a descendant of the tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment. The garden also houses several towers and aesthetically designed stupas. The red 11-story stupa and the yellow facade as well as the bonsai dioramas add a quiet beauty to the spiritual serenity. 

Eiffel in Hanoi

Yes, Long Bien Bridge was  originally built by Gustav Eiffel, the very man  famed for the Eiffel Tower and the Statue of Liberty. The cantilevered bridge was once the longest bridge in Asia. It was bombed during the Vietnam War and then restored. We find a stairway that leads from the ceramic murals to the railway station after the bridge  bridge. Since the sun is about to set and the day has cooled down we decide to walk along the bridge which has lanes only for bikes and pedestrians. 

Though rickety at places we walk the half of the 2km bridge from where we have views of the red river mud flats. It's like another tapestry but of lush vegetation both floating and otherwise, interjected by a boat or two making watery tracks on a green surface. The banks are again a tapestry of vegetable gardens. The lanes on the bank sport artististic sculptures from recycled plastic bottles and incense burning drums. Walls are covered with murals depicting lily or lotus ponds.

As luck would have it

As we return to the railway station we see a crowd. It is getting dark and most are staying put. We hang around for a while and when we decide to move off, the tracks begin to vibrate. There is a gust of wind. The anxious wait of nearly 10 min is worth every minute. We are actually going to see the train that will chug past us into the tracks that lie between restaurants and pubs adorned with attractive graffiti, just two steps away from the tracks. Another surprise: the tracks go along the top of the wall that is famous for its murals and continue on a raised track into the old quarter shopping area.  We've been to the places before but were completely unaware of the proximity of the tracks.

Aesthetics every which way

Everyday street art abounds from the way vendors arrange their goods on carts, the intricately embroidered dainty baskets to the flower bouquets and wreaths. Pop up cards  of iconic Vietnamese buildings and mythical creatures are sold as souvenirs.

One day we noticed sea creatures made of recycled plastic bottles sitting on the pedestrian bridge over the 6 lane thoroughfare that we cross everyday to get to the old quarter.  The next day the collection increased with more of these animals and waveforms. By evening they were hung up and being wired. We left the day after but now I know that a group of artists had transformed the bridge into a vibrant,  buoyantly delightful, illuminated work of art in the evening.

We chose well

We hadn't realised we were just across the old quarter when we booked our airbnb.Historic landmarks, cultural delights,  tourist sites quite central, fairly walkable, old quarter, French quarter.