Torshavn, Faroe islands: an unassuming bureau (2019)

 A far away borough

When cruising the fjords Torshavn, in the Faroe Islands, was on our itinerary. We knew very little about the island except what we gleaned from a tour excursion promotional talk which went over our heads. 

A walk about in the downtown area should give us an idea and then we'll wing it from there.

Stumbling upon the magical: ocean on the doorstep

As we approach the port we are galvanized by charming red buildings with green roofs. A not so distant lighthouse also beckons. It is very clear where we are going to start our journey to discovery and our route there onwards.

We skip the downtown area and head towards the enticing buildings. They are actually built on the rocks of a promontory. These crammed wooden buildings with delightful sod roofs were originally warehouses. They have now been converted to house the Government of the Faroe islands. We could easily have missed the prime minister's office since the narrow cobble-stoned alleyways, some leading under equally narrow, covered, windowed overhead corridors connecting adjacent buildings are all too much to take in at a glance and make sense of. Of course, that meant stumbling upon beautiful surprises. That includes the unassuming (but attractive nevertheless) staircased Prime Minister’s Office and the half-timbered Danish style 17th century vicarage.

Intimate and understated

The promontory, named Tinganese, also boasts the oldest Parliament in the world. Politicians have met here for more than a thousand years.

It is amazing that a country is ruled from unassuming quarters, while most of the world insists on outrageously opulent buildings for the same purpose! The office buildings seem crowded together but in spite of the narrow paths there is no crowd to weave through and nudge against.

Skankin fortress: backdrops to the town

Our walk away from the Tinganese old town leads us seamlessly towards the lighthouse atop a hill. We first reach the fortress of which only a few grassy mounds remain. The lighthouse is on yet another mound a little above the fortress. It overlooks the town and provides sweeping vistas of the harbour and the sea. In fact, the facility was built in 1580 in order to protect the city against pirates. Ever since World War II when the British army stationed some cannons here the mound has been used primarily for gun salutes.

Free range native hens, sedate pace

Back in town, adjacent to the old town is a group of squat black tarred buildings with white-framed windows under turf roofs. The alleyways are still traversed by hens which they've been doing since time immemorial. These traditional dwellings are small for practical reasons. Timber is scarce on the islands and they are easier to heat. The governor’s house is in the vicinity. A grotto graces the front yard of his home.

Apart from these dwellings and government offices there are also numerous other reconstructed buildings in traditional Faroese architecture. Of these, the most iconic is Torshavn Cathedral. The second oldest (19th century) church in the islands, it has a sky blue ceiling matching the ocean around it. Models of ships symbolic of the sea faring people are suspended from it. At the altar is the Last Supper. The quiet, sublime and respectful atmosphere is partly attributable to the organ pipe ranks that stand stately in the upper gallery.

Trappan park: a mini forest in a treeless land

Forests are rare in the Faroe Islands. But a beautifully designed city park is the proud home to one. It is a little patch of trees at the top of a picturesque winding stairway from where we are treated to breathtaking views of the harbour and the dramatic coastline.Trappan, the beautifully designed city park in Tórshavn, serves as a vibrant testament to the stunning natural beauty and rich cultural heritage of the Faroe Islands. No doubt, the lights add to the charm in the evenings.

The National Library 

For most cruisers the public library is a must visit, especially for the wifi. The vibrant colours and a plethora of events makes it a well visited facility. The librarian tells me that the organisation's main task is to collect, record, preserve, and disseminate knowledge of literature related to the Faroe Islands. It is no surprise then that The National Library also functions as a research library.

Native wool

We then traipse back to the ship for lunch. As we do we summarily pass by the various boutiques and galleries with their attractive displays of sweaters and craft all incorporating designs inspired by the islands’ rugged landscapes and rich history. The sweaters are made from the wool of native sheep known for their soft inner wool and coarser outer wool as you can tell from the picture.

Idyllic coast that is mostly cliff

Energised by lunch we walk along the cliffs overlooking the coast for more vistas. The idyllic nature of the surroundings, is augmented by Hans Pauli Olsen's sculptures. There are many more miniature painted rocks.  Down some of the slopes native sheep graze contently while native fowl snuggle comfortably in their alluring grassy surroundings overlooking the ocean 

The facts:

At the start of the visit I had made a mental note to read up on the Faroe Islands to correct the gap in my knowledge and I thought these to be interesting:

• The archipelago is made up of 18 islands
• The islands belong  to Denmark but are self-governed
• They are nestled in the Atlantic Ocean, halfway between Iceland and Norway
• Tórshavn, on Streymoy Island, is the capital city 
• Of the population of 40,000. more than half live in the town itself. No wonder there is plenty of elbow room.
• Faroese derives from Old Norse and is closely related to Icelandic, Norwegian, Danish and Swedish. Not surprisingly,Icelandic, Norwegian and Swedish are understood and spoken in many places, and most people are capable of communicating in English too.