Incredulous history:Saxons in Transylvania
I've always associated Saxons with Britain partly because I'm familiar with the term Anglo-Saxons. But Saxons in Romania?Just as the Ottoman rulers of old in the Balkans have left an indelible mark in the culture of the region, so have the Saxons in what was Transylvania. Who are these Saxons? They were all from the German speaking regions, and therefore a Germanic tribe. Why were they in Transylvania? Well, the sparsely populated Transylvania of the 12th century was part of Hungary. The then king invited these people to populate the area and consequentially defend it from marauders. The first group to arrive settled in Sibiu (to be covered in my next post ) in the southern parts of Transylvania.
In the 13th century the Hungarian ruler granted the Brasov area to the Germanic tribe. They in turn attempted to establish their own state. The area needed defence not internal strife and so the wise king granted them many privileges so that they would remain loyal to Hungary. They were exempt from taxes and duties. In return they made a yearly payment for the lands they received as well as provide soldiers for the king.
In other words, the Germanic tribe was an immigrant community invited for the defence of Transylvania and to contribute to its economic development.
They were expert craftsmen and tradesmen. They formed guilds. They contributed greatly to the growth of Brasov as a city. They helped to maintain the walls and bastions. The seven citadels (one of which is mentioned in my previous post) in the area stand testament to their valuable contribution to the 6th largest city in Romania.
Ominous start
We walk down the main street under a sky laden with clouds. Our introduction to Brasov begins with the boutiques, cafes and souvenir shops, housed in and between historic buildings including a church, probably Orthodox, built during the Soviet era, that line the pedestrian Strada Republici. The side is artistically paved.It is certainly a picturesque town with varied architecture styles and colourful facades. We simply pass by insinuatingly squeezed alleys reminding me of Venice. What stories would we have uncovered? The narrowest street in Europe is somewhere here.
The long street leads us right into Piața Sfatului (Marketplatz, in German), the heart of the old town. A marquee and chairs arranged in a circle tell us that some event is on. There is some music and movement of people but we are clueless as to what exactly is going on. Our local guide is droning on about the history of Brasov intent on taking us to the Black Church. Perhaps he did say something about how the central square is always bustling with people, and that numerous events take place here.
The phenomenon
The first building that rises before us is the very Viennese looking administrative building of the University of Transylvania. And then we feel the drizzle picking up. Hurriedly we unfurl our umbrellas, and seek shelter in a narrow space in the buildings fringing the square. The rain pierces the umbrellas held at angles to form a wall. It is not rain but ice crystals in the form of long needles! Of course, they almost immediately form puddles at our feet. That phenomenon turns out to be a great setting for what we are about to learn. A few 100 years ago the square was used for public executions, punishments and public humiliation (for crimes including witchcraft), just as in Piazza San Marco in Venice, Italy.
Trodding on the entombed
But that's not all. When the rain lets up we walk along the gravel around the church, skipping puddles. Why was it not paved? Hold your breath! A complex of 1,400 graves lie under our feet! Also underneath us are archaeological remains of a civilisation.
The Council House in the centre of the square, now a Museum of History, has displays of artefacts from the various historical eras in the area.
Biserica Neagra: Black Church
This majestic Lutheran church, originally Roman Catholic, was built in the 14th century by the Bulgarians over a period of 100 years. (Sagrada Familia( Barcelona, Spain) was started 144 years ago and is still not complete.) This blackened church reminds me of Kholn, Germany. The Kholn cathedral was constructed of sandstone before the industrial revolution. Over the years natural aging, pollution and damage during World War II contributed to the darkening of the facade.
The same can be said of the Black Church, but with a difference. Instead of war it was ravaged by a big fire at the end of the 17th century.
More impressive details.
Had we entered the church we would have seen a collection of oriental carpets, and that reminds me of Hagia Sofia (Istanbul, Turkey) with a history of the Byzantine church, mosque and museum.
More impressive is the Baroque organ, built in the 19th century, with 4,000 pipes – the biggest working organ in the country.
It is also known for its six-ton bronze bell.
There's a lot more to explore, especially the various towers spread across the city each one specialising in storing a particular commodity of a guild.
The merchant houses in market square have dormer windows in their tiled roofs that look like eyes peering out.from the square We have a good view of Tampa mountain the lush greenery of which forms a contrasting the white letters spelling out the name of the city, reminiscent of Hollywood.
Amusing amenity
Our short visit almost at an end we wait at the local bus station just beside a park with inviting red benches. We are in for some amusement. A bus rolls by towing a bike rack. Three cyclists mount their bicycles in a series and strap them to the metal frames.
A Twist
Had we continued past the Black Church we would have entered the Schei district through a gate. The Bulgarians began settling in the area beginning the 14th century. They were not allowed to settle in the Saxon fortified city. Not only were they allowed entry I to the citadel through a gate only at specific times to sell their goods but also to pay tolls for vending within the walls. As mentioned above they worked on the Black Church. After three centuries they became assimilated and all the former restrictions were
