The ascent
As we disembark at the Port of Tangiers a wide road devoid of cars and pedestrians leads our eyes to a fort-like structure on the hill, overlooking the buildings on the slopes. Our strategy has always been to tackle the strenuous first and then ease our way down. So here we go. Right beside us is a road leading up the slope lined with official looking large buildings. One of the buildings that makes us pause has Spanish Architecture and colours. We continue our walk uphill, simply following the curvy road.
We arrive at flat land with green lawns and gardens, having passed by a Jewish cemetery. St Andrews English church is nearby. This is Mendobia garden.
As we sit in the park to catch our breath there's much activity in the open air market around us. We are just above the Grand Socco (souk/market) filled with shops and stalls overflowing with fruits, vegetables, ceramics, spices, clothes etc. Just down the slope beside us is a pick up truck loaded with bright golden oranges making a brisk sale. Tea shops are patronised by men sitting all day chatting. Hardly any women there. The few women out and about are either selling or buying. Shouldn't be surprised.
Protector of the city: All gates lead to the Medina
As we walk further up a slope lined with houses and a staircase sidewalk with lush orange trees, in full foliage dotted with gold globes, planted at regular intervals, we are on the outside of the ramparts and towers that were visible from the port. A gate and a notice board are close by. It's a map of all the 8 gates from the Royal Citadel (Kasbah) into the old town (Medina). Taking a chance with the nearest one, Bab(gate) Kasbah, just a few steps away, we enter to find ourselves in the Kasbah courtyard with its historic towers.
The commercial and cultural centre
Another Bab leads us into the Medina. What we see are winding alleyways, some so narrow we have to walk single file. In some parts the paths are arched over. In others staircases lead to the different levels.
America's historic first
We have just passed by what we think is just another Moorish building with an impressive wooden door topped by colourful tiles.. We are surprised that it is the Tangier American Legation building. The United States diplomatic mission to Morocco was originally housed here. It bears the fame of being the very first American public property outside the US. It is also the only U.S. National Historic Landmark in a foreign country. Presently it is a museum.
Life in the spiral
There are street lights and running water in spite of the tightly knitted streets.. Doors of most of the dwellings are closed. Some have plants adorning their outside walls. In wider areas children find space to play. We even see a crib against an outside wall.
Traffic.
Mostly pedestrian but there are cyclists and an occasional motorbike too! No harmful fumes. We can walk forever, if only we could be sure we can find our way back to the port well before departure time. It would never do to miss the boat.!
All Quiet
Vegetable and fruit shops have basket lined fronts. Carpet shops display samples on the outside walls. Arrays of colourful Morrocan shoes line another opening. Most pleasing is the fact that the salesmen are not pushy or loud. We are not hassled by touts hindering us from savouring the splendour and cultural richness of it all.
Tourist etiquette
At one point, as a group of tourists pass by a blue door, a woman seen through a crack in the door angrily tells people not to look into their private space. Responsible visitors have to remember that this a Muslim country and anything to do with Muslim culture is highly sensitive.
As though to reinforce it, the incident happens close to the ancient mosque with its green minaret and doors.
We are lost
When we think we've seen it all we try to find our way back to the port. It has to be easy for we have only to follow paths going downhill. We get it all wrong. It gets very confusing. The labyrinthine network of cobblestoned streets throws us off. Our best bet is to look for a gate, peek out, get our bearings, and then try again.
Gateway to discovery
We do find a gate. Not done yet. We have more to savour. We are at the crumbling walls facing the Strait of Gibraltar and the Mediterranean sea with a view of Spain across the waters. We should be able to see the African coast too. Below us, somewhere further away are ancient Phonecian tombs. Over a sandy ridge are two dromedaries waiting for rides! Another view gives us a clear view of the path that took us from the port to the Kasbah.
Sounds of the city
We have our bearings now. Back we go into the Medina and tackle the streets with more confidence. We can still get lost. Sounds of the modern city, motorbikes honking and revving up their engines, clearly indicate that we are almost out of what seems like the bowels of a city.
Now we are on the broader streets leading to a wide promenade. The bigger shops are all her. More carpets, harem pants, vibrant tapestry and leather goods. The downhill walk offers us a vista of the enticing bright blue Mediterranean Sea.
Geographical location
From the upper levels of the Medina, on a clear day, both the continents of Africa and Europe can be seen. Except at the Gardens we did not see lawns in the city.
The tapestry that is Tangiers
Definitely the fact that it is not crowded with tourists.
All the signs are in French as well as Arabic
It is immersive in that it reflects a rich history in its bustling souks and historical buildings depicting various architectural styles all within the Medina. There is a unique blend of Moroccan, Arab and European influences all reflecting the past, from the Phonecian origins to the Romans and then the Arabs. It was later occupied by the Portuguese, passed on to the Spanish and then gifted to the English as a dowry and then taken over by a Sultan. No wonder it has a vibrant culture.
