Not one but two seats of government!
We are docked at Santa Cruz, the largest city on Tenerife , the largest of the Canary Islands. It is not only the capital of the island but also one of the two political capitals of the autonomous community of Canary Archipelago, Spain. The other is Las Palmas in Gran Canaria.
All roads lead to the ‘oasis’: Plaza España
Very close to the port are spectacular man made slopes landscaped with cacti, grass and other tropical ground cover reflecting onto a massive shallow pool. This is Plaza de Espana, dating from 1929, built over the remains of a castle. The garden only happened around 2006. The pool reflects all the modern architecture of emblematic buildings ( the grand Palacio with its clock tower, the post office, the monument to the fallen) typical of a capital city, around it. What's more, it is a very busy place. One of the reasons it is so busy is that it is at a crossroads. Almost every avenue extends out from here and hence a happy vibrant mix of locals and tourists. It's a good place to people watch and to relax.
The volcanic origins of the island is unmistakable in the hilly terrain surrounding the capital which is in the only lowland.
History bonanza
Walking through the various streets and avenues it is obvious that Santa Cruz has preserved its historical buildings very well, indeed, making it a bonanza for history buffs. The churches attest to the Catholic tradition. The Church of the Immaculate Conception has a bell tower reminiscent of a minaret. The Guimera Theatre, a revered cultural institution, is the oldest theater in the Canary Islands.
Dragons and swords: a world record.
The parks and avenues are shaded by various types of palm trees. Other trees are dressed up in colourful crochet. But the umbrella shaped tree with a dense canopy is a road stealer. Its leaves are sword shaped. They grow in dense tufts. Tucked among them are white flowers and choral berries. The trunk is said to contain dragon's blood, aptly named for its red gum valued for its values. We are told that in a distant town called Icod de los Vinos, stands what is thought to be the oldest in the world: at least 800 years old, 18 metres tall20 metres in diameter
Urban sculptures
Parks abound in Santa Cruz. They are populated generously with urban sculptures and other artsy work like the trunks clothed in crocheted lace! A bronze statue of a mackerel near a dragon tree, a wind sculpture, a 25-meter tall monument that honors those who fought in the Spanish Civil War , a huge bronze mask, the Courage Group just to name a few. There is a statue for Agatha Christie somewhere, for she wrote one of her books while residing in Santa Cruz.
Reusing in a season for buying presents
Christmas is around the corner so the streets are festooned, faces decorated,etc. Nut ruck, between all this is a museum with its doors welcomingly ajar. Lo and behold! It's an exhibition of scenes, including the Nativity scene, all created from paper, cans, cardboard boxes, etc.
A chip off the Sydney Opera House?
A strange canopy seemingly providing shade to a fort bears traces of the Sydney Opera house. It is none other than Auditorio de Tenerife. Avenida de la Constitución. The specs are stupefying for a diminutive looking building. The main hall has capacity for 1616 spectators and a 16.5 m wide stage. The already diminutive 17th century fortress, Castillo de San Juan bautista, on a tiny island, is dwarfed by the modern complex.
Since all the forts look alike and sit along the sea shore we are not sure we saw the Castillo de San Cristóbal. But we know that the oasis was built over its ruins. They now have tunnels that take you underground to see the remains.
Our Lady of Africa: fascinating name for a market
The Spanish name is Mercado Municipal Nuestra Senora de Africa. The arched entrance is aptly ornate with two sculptures. One is of a barefoot Milkmaid, balancing a jug in one hand and a basket of dairy products on her head. The second is of two fishermen launching a boat. Of course, their main catch was the mackerel, which is emblematic of the once poor fishing village and hardworking citizens.
It's a colourful local market, with a colonial ambiance, with two floors filled with all kinds of canarian goods.. The bakeries and butchers are on the ground floor. Tourists are most attracted to the fish market and seafood cafes in the basement.
The craft stalls are a feast for the eyes. o was particularly drawn to the
Tenerife lace ( which is drawn work embroidery) and the intricate doilies
On Sundays the market spills outdoors.
