Yellow Brick Road: Sofia, Bulgaria

From Skopje towards Sofia.

Our drive takes us through verdant valleys and mountains. Crossing the border (we are crossing over from a non-shenzhen country into an EU country) is not as tedious as we thought it would be. The drive offers great views of the brilliant blue Lake Kalamantsi, an artificial lake created by a dam.

At a wayside restaurant we alight for lunch after which the group that opted for the UNESCO World Heritage Rila Monastery high up in the hills takes off. We have about 2 hours to kill. The restaurant looks over a small river that runs over a weir. It seems like a crude construction of a dam. We seek access to the river but find none. On the opposite side of the road is a flight of wood and stone stairs that looks as though it would lead to some old historic building. Maybe a monastery?There is no one save a dilapidated building. A hulking man appears from nowhere with a large can which he fills under a tap a few metres from us. We ask if the water is safe to drink. With gestures and guttural sounds he says it's  not. That being the only conversation possible we follow a well trodden path hoping it would lead to some copse or vista. Alas, it leads us back to the road. There's shade at the unassuming hotel beside the restaurant which is where we park ourselves. A lone man sits in the lounge with nary a word or a gesture of acknowledgement. As he walks out and drives away a small group of tourists arrive. There is a commotion in using the free washrooms and then, just like that, they disappear.

Worth the risk

We are getting restless and so we walk further up the road hoping to find access to the river. A dirt road leads us to it but on the way a gate warns us not to trespass. A few officers are slumped at the tiny little building. They look withered by the heat. We ask if we can go close to the river. A vehement ‘no’ arises. With hopes dashed we walk back to the restaurant where we use the washrooms and that's when we spot the stairs leading down to the waters edge. There's no holding us back. The officers had emphatically said it was out of bounds and there we are temptingly close. Yet, too far. The weir is well protected with barbed wire! 

First impressions of Sofia

Driving through the rolling hills patch quilted with various crops, we enter the outskirts of Sofia, where we are met with stark buildings, trams and a shopping mall. All trappings of the proverbial modern day city that reflect a humdrum life. Would the capital city be boring? 

Impressions do go wrong

And then we pass by buildings with an assortment of architecture. Ah! The unmistakable 2000 year history of the Balkans– Greek,  Roman,  Ottoman  and Soviet occupation –is reflected.

If only we had more time

Our local tour guide decides on a walking route that would take us to the major landmarks and attractions. The area is  designed to look like Vienna, especially the yellow brick road, thanks to the Austrian-Hungarian Emperor who questioned the durability of the original roads (I imagine they were muddy) when he visited Sofia. The ubiquitous yellow bricks were a gift from him.

Historical importance versus landmark.

As expected we are led to St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It's iconic alright with its gold coated domes. A relatively new building  built to honour Russian soldiers who died in the Russian-Turkish  war of the 1800s,the stunning building is quite a contrast to the stark tenements of the Soviet era. Oddly the church actually remained open during the Communist regime in Bulgaria.

But more important, historically, is the 4th century St Nedelya Church at the end of the main historic street. It’s the oldest church in Sofia. 

Nearby is the 10th century Eastern Orthodox St Sophia Church with its prominent central dome. It has undergone several reconstructions, the most significant of which was after it was bombed in 1952. Obviously this is where Sofia gets its name. The name of a woman? Uh, uh. Interestingly, Sofia is revered as the female version of Christ. 

Repurposed

We trot along the streets with our guide pointing out the various buildings, the significance and purport of each all drowned in his droning voice. We have cursory glances of the Bulgarian Academy of Sciences, the art Gallery, the Bulgarian Parliament, etc. Some research afterwards puts things in better perspective.

Sofia has an abundance of mineral springs which gave rise to the Central Mineral Baths. What served as a public bathhouse is now a history museum. A fountain in front is mostly occupied by pigeons. I hear the area has unsavoury characters. Perhaps that's why we just pass by.

Central Sofia Market Hall, also known as Tsentralni Hal, is identified by the relief of the coat of arms of Sofia above the main entrance. Originally a covered market for various goods, it was renovated and reopened in 2001. The three storied building is now full of shops selling items like clothing, groceries, jewelry, and fast food besides restaurants. 

Fountains and gardens and a near miss

Close to the aforementioned churches is the city gardens. On this hot day we are all tempted to find reprieve in its green open cool spaces, and the impressive fountains. The iconic fountain in the square in front of the presidential office is also inviting. 

But wait, did we miss the National Theatre of Bulgaria  with its unique red walls, tall white columns and gold embellishments?

Did we also miss the synagogue?

A persistent gnawing  

A cluster of shiny, colourful onion domes have been in our peripheral vision for quite a while. Being shrouded in greenery it is mysterious and captivating thus creating gnawing questions that desperately need to be addressed. This is yet another Russian Church, officially known as the Church of St Nicholas the Miracle-Maker. Reason: it includes the crypt of an Archbishop widely considered a miracle- worker. The building itself is a unique artistic piece within and without, plastered with multicoloured tiles,  all topped with 5 sparkling gold coated domes.

Easily identified

The National Archaeological Museum looks archaic enough since many  artifacts lie around the building.This museum is housed in the former Koca Mahmut Paşa Camii, an Ottoman mosque built in the 15th century.

A revealing peek: Celts in Bulgaria

Our eyes are drawn to the stiff guards in ceremonial uniform. Undoubtedly it is the Presidency Building with a modern structure embellished by stone accents. But our attention is quickly drawn towards a rotunda which appears in one of the arched walkways that leads into a square. You'd never guess that this is considered one of the oldest buildings in Sofia.Built in the 4th century as Roman baths it was converted into an Early Christian church within the ancient city of Serdica ( explanation in the next section)

We are told the church is famous for its frescoes inside the central dome, dating from the 10th to the 14th century. Would you believe it? It was founded by local Celts

Fleeting memories

Drowsily we pass by notable buildings like The National Art Gallery located in the historic Royal Palace building. The architectural styles and the supposedly impressive collection  of arts are all lost to us.

All that I remember of  the National Assembly Building  (a landmark building) is that it serves as the meeting place for the Bulgarian Parliament. It was once used as the Communist Party House.

Accidental digging into layers of history

At a metro station we are led  down into a spectacular subterranean world. We are in an ancient amphitheater which is an open museum. It has been so carefully excavated and the artifacts so well preserved that it feels like we are back in time, in the 4th century to be exact. We are in the ancient city of Sardika during Roman times. Did I just hear the gladiator battles and the fighting animals?

The amphitheater was found by accident in 2004 during the construction of the  Serdica Hotel. More  sections were discovered in 2005 and  2006 while excavating the foundation of a nearby office building.

Overshadowed but singularly quaint

We climb back into the city on the other side to find ourselves parked in a little square with souvenir shops. Our group suddenly becomes more energetic. We browse a couple of shops enough to get a strong feel for the local artistry and cultural icons and then find a place to rest our legs and backs till the shoppers are done. Our guide bids farewell.

Looking up I see the statue of St Sophia towering up behind the metro station. I'm sitting atop the wall of a raised garden behind a stone building. Curious, I walk to the other side and also discover an underground entrance. A plaque in a strange language tells me nothing until some later research tells me that I'm at the Church of St Petka of the Saddlers. It's a one-naved underground church dedicated to the patron of tanners and saddlers. Well hidden between modern structures, this medieval Orthodox temple of significant historic value,one of the oldest of its kind in Sofia,  could easily be missed. 

Serenaded into more than a hearty meal

Tonight's dinner is at Hadjidraganovite. The decor is old-style Bulgarian rustic. The ceiling is adorned with wagon wheel chandeliers, hanging lamps and various traditional or antique items, including what appears to be dried peppers and other hanging decorations. The lighting is muted by the decor. Initially subdued by the ambience we perk up as soon as the walking band serenades us.

The food is traditional Bulgarian, plentiful and very agreeably grilled. The freshly baked warm bread just daintily pulls off in delicate aromatic chunks so delectable that we are addicted to it. We do have ravenous appetites but the gargantuan portions overwhelm. Who can eat a mountain of salad and meat? More than half our servings go to waste.  

Morning round up

It's always fulfilling to walk the streets of a historic city, or any city for that matter, to observe daily life devoid of tourists. It's only a short walk to the city from our hotel. We retrace the steps of the previous day. Except for the few commuters we have the city to ourselves.

We get a closer look at Banya Bashi mosque, the only functioning mosque in town. Its red brick minaret and walls, large dome and typical lattice work with Islamic motifs speak much of Ottoman architecture. In fact, this particular mosque is often referred to as Mini Haigh Sofia, referring to the landmark in Istanbul. The name "Banya Bashi" means "many baths", and it is built on natural mineral springs.

We pause by the glass railings that give us a view of the archaeological excavations. It seems as though we are in Rome.

The relatively new statue of St Sophia watches over the city centre. 

On our way back to the hotel we make sure to take a picture at Lions Bridge (Lavov Most). Our fellow travellers have been talking about it being featured in a Bollywood movie. It's a short arched bridge over the Vladaya River.  The name is derived from the symbolic bronze lions(4 of them) that are prominently featured. The bridge connects the city centre with the railway and bus stations.

Only in . . . 

Where else would you find ruins every time you dig?

Where else in the Balkans would you find layers of history that include the Celtic? Among the Greeks, Roman, Slavic warriors, Ottoman pashas and Cold War communists?

Where else would you find churches, mosques and synagogues all within a few steps of each other ?