Clearly defined Balkan
Leaving Sofia quite early in the morning we drive about 3 hours to our next destination. The term "Balkans" truly registers since our scenic route is along the Balkan mountain range that stretches through the whole of Bulgaria. Against that backdrop are villages and clusters of houses nestled in a valley with green fields all around. A church stands out, its white bell tower piercing the clear blue sky. A railway line and brick houses fenced in with tile topped stone walls reflect how the modern and traditional coexist.
A historic pass
Later research tells me that we have driven through the Shipka Pass, a mountain pass in the Balkan Mountains. It being on a vital trade route Turkish troops made repeated attempts to recapture the vital pass. The five-day fight for the 4,500-foot-high pass became the turning point of the Russo-Turkish War. The church we passed by is in the village of Shipka.
Perceptible signs
That the area is ideal for flowering plants is clear as all around us are rose and sunflower fields. Just as in any rural area in Eastern Europe cattle graze contentedly on fresh fodder. Villages, whose red-tiled roofs contrast with the green surroundings and blue skies, are flanked by humble cemeteries. Behind these modest structures are high rise buildings still modest enough to retain the tranquility of a natural setting. As we approach our destination, fields of roses, identified by the few that are on the acres of bushes, appear on both sides. Is that a bridge we see in the distance?
Within a few moments we arrive at the “bridge”. We are in Rose Valley, famous for its roses which have been cultivated there for centuries. It produces 6 tons of rose oil – half of the world's total production. The sunshine and mild temperatures that we have experienced and enjoyed so far are ideal for rose cultivation.
The complex we are at is called Damascena Ethnographic Complex. It's a private family distillery and ethnographic museum dedicated to the art of rose oil production. Our guide for the day speaks good English.
Tenderly does it
As we are being introduced to the very first equipment a van arrives. The driver slides open the door and therein are huge plastic bags of pink rose blossoms, carefully cut one by one from the bushes. The gathering process is traditionally and understandably a woman's task, since it requires a gentle touch,dexterity and patience. The driver deftly lifts the sacks and quickly but gently lays them close to the distillation area beside a stream. (You might want to find out how many tons of roses would be needed to produce one ton of the precious oil.) A good source of water is necessary for gently washing the petals. The stream that flows along the processing plant serves a practical purpose in being part of a vital process.
The distillation itself is the simple process of ‘water-distillation’. The flowers are soaked in water and are distilled in containers. Our guide points out to a vintage copper still once used in the distillation process.
We have been lucky. It's off season as proven by the scarcity of flowers we saw in the fields but the processing plant also has suppliers who own fields of the Damask rose, the rose that is best for oil production.
We get to take pictures with a statue of Queen Berenice. The statue is part of the grand art within the complex, whose aim is to preserve and showcase history. Parked by the side are two antique trabants
Attractions:
The complex features a park and gardens. One of the swans coyly entices us with her various poses. Several stone and wood handcrafted sculptures blend in with the surroundings.
An immersive experience
A pergola leads us to a traditional house made up of several sections displaying historical agricultural artifacts and tools
The Bridge Close up
We are then directed towards what looked like a bridge from afar. Surprise, surprise! We are standing on the rim of a concrete basket. It is an amphitheatre. The ‘bridge’ is the handle of the basket filled with tiers of at least 150 varieties of roses. It's stunning.
We then move into the cooler building with marble floors,stairs and pillars, with frescoes on the walls and ceilings depicting historical events. Our noses lead us to the shop that enticingly displays all its rose oil products. The cashiers in their traditional costumes charm us. A 1gm ampule of rose oil (liquid gold)costs about €12. Most of the women from our group come away with armloads of these products.
Our fellow travellers lunch on traditional Bulgarian cuisine at the adjoining restaurant and then we have a good view of the pebble-stoned river and the lush green trees and mountains afar that form a prelude to the next city, Ruse.
No comments:
Post a Comment
Comments are welcome