Towards Little Lhasa
In 2015, on our trip to the northern states of India, and to Nepal, we took the overnight train from Delhi to Pathankot, Punjab, passing army bases along the way. After all we are in Punjab which borders Pakistan. At the station we hired a car to take us to Daramshala ( Himachal Pradesh), the Indian abode of the Dalai Lama.
The harrowing drive
The route that crosses from Punjab to Himachal Pradesh offers scenic views of the majestic Dauladhar mountain range( a part of the Himalayas). The 90 km distance should take us about 3 hrs. The roads are in good shape and hence the ride is pleasant. But when we start climbing the1500m up the slope, our feet press hard on imaginary breaks. Do we hear screeches? Are our ears fooling us? We have to suggest to our driver that he slow down at the sharp U-turns and precipitous curves. It falls on deaf ears. Tea estates and panoramic scenery whizz by. Curiously, as we speed further up, it is precisely along these curves that people are lined up. They each hold a white scarf.
We reach Lower MacGranj in record time. Our cab driver swerves into a one way street in the opposite direction , diagonally crosses the road, apparently with utter disregard for traffic rules and safety, before he brings the wheels to a crunching stop at our hotel.
In an urgent authoritative tone he orders us out of the car and across the road, practically dragging us. He gestures to our right, tracing our path uphill. It all seems so ominous.
A bolt from the blue
A Land Rover with darkened windows drives by and in the passenger seat? None other than the Dalai Lama. He puts his hands together and looks directly at us through his window. The beaming, infectious, winsome smile is unmistakable in spite of the tinted window. The compassionate eye contact is etched firmly in memory. Eyes wide and mouth agape we don't even realize that we have put our hands together in a reciprocal gesture. Certainly not the time to zoom in for a precious photograph. Remarkably, there is no motorcade or convoy!
Did we pave the way, or did we just race ahead to clear the way for him?
We had actually been just ahead of his conveyance. The white scarves were prayer shawls held by his adorers hoping to get a glimpse of him. They chose the curves since the official car would slow down enough to give them a glimpse of the venerable man.
We had not even imagined meeting the Lama especially since he is very busy with public appearances in India and abroad. And then I remember a message I'd received from my brother a day before that I might get lucky for he was scheduled to return to his home!
We do not forget to thank our driver. Our gratitude was written all over our faces. He was plainly gratified to see us in raptures. What a perceptive, quick thinking and astute driver to have!
When we come back to our senses we check into the hotel. We have to climb two floors but what is there to complain when the views are fantastic and the temperature in the 20s?
We lunch and then begin walking around the hill town. We are in the lower part of the town also known as Lower McLeod Granj. We are surrounded by snow clad peaks and verdant landscapes. The first place we visit is the abode of the Dalai Lama and the monastry. The Temple Hall, surrounded by breathtaking vistas, is vast. A few monks are sitting in meditation oblivious to the activities around them. We approach the centre which houses an imposing Buddha, the walls around the figure covered with paintings depicting his life. As we circumambulated the enclosure we turned the large prayer wheels all along the walls. The ambiance and the rituals are certainly very conducive to spiritual reflection.
The awe never ends
Of course, there is the souvenir shop and a cafe in the grounds which we browse. As we walk higher up into town its late in the evening and therefore the stalls which also sell various sovenirs (other than those related to Tibetan culture), antiques and cheap clothes, have their wares all covered and secured with tarp. The Temple road is studded with cafes at one of which we order hazelnut cream coffee and sit outside enjoying the scenery while as we sip and reflect on how the day was very fulfilling.
Our walk into town brings us to a colourful temple of several floors in quite a narrow space. As we climb up the various floors, the stupa rising through the middle of the structure right up to the top floor, we are met with colourful frescoes and tangkas paintings on the walls and pillars. Our senses are overwhelmed. From the top we get a bird's eye view of the city glowing in the dark, with lights twinkling from the windows of buildings dotting the hill.
As we return to the hotel we are in for another treat. The sun is just beginning to set. A spectacular ending to a dramatic day.
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