4 times in London, espcially at St James Park, yet not a single view of the world famous Changing of the Guards at the adjacent Buckingham Palace. Most of the time we are busy loitering the streets of London steeped in history and then leisurely walking through the serene gardens when we tend to lose all sense of time. When we hear the Military Band along the Mall we already know it is too late for the show since we will not be able to see beyond he crowd. But the last time we visited London in 2019, the trip where we got lost (see Ditched by a london taxi), we had wet days. The day we are at St James Park the rain has let up. This time we are definitely going to watch the parade. We are hopeful that the drizzle would not hamper the event. I thought we were cutting close to the start of the event and that it would be a struggle to work through the inevitable crowd. Unbelieveably there are only a handful of would-be spectators hanging around. We are very lucky indeed. It has stopped raining. Expectantly we wait, and wait, and wait. Nothing is happening. A few officials are walking to and fro sharing a few words, like ants meeting on their expeditions to exchange information. Show cancelled because of rain? Time to whip out the camera and zoom in on a black board close to the wall of the Palace. Confirmed. Well the smart ones probaly checked the website and knew that there isn't going to be a parade this day. Well, we tried!
Hard to Miss: Changing of the Guards, Stockholm
The first time we were in Stokholm was in the summer of 2014. Our grandchildren were travelling with us. After traversing the city centre by metro, bus, and foot we stroll through Gamla Stan, the Old Quarters of the city. After taking a look at the entrance to the Palace, we have just left the huge square in front of it. Its about noon and the young ones are begining to be restless when they suddenly perk up. There's a band playing music that gets the feet tapping. Our heads turn this way and that finally setttling on a Cavalry band that is making its way towards the Palace. We are in awe of the bright blue uniforms astride chestnut coloured horses that lead the Procession. They play popular songs. After all Sweden is the land of ABBA. They are followed by foot soldiers, guards, from another direction. Mounted police make sure the parade route is clear of traffic and pedestrians. The whole parade seems convivial without compromising precision and ceremony. The entire routine of 45 mins is delightfully entertaining.
Sweden is not only about Nobel, IKEA and ABBA, but also rejoicing in ceremony. Is it any wonder that it is one of the world's happiest countries?
Not deterred by rain: Amalienborg, Copenhagen
Copenhagen is a very walkable city. We often start at the Central Railway Station and then walk towards The Little Mermaid. On the way we pass the Palace, the Cathedral, the Parks etc. In 2015, when our grandchildren travelled with us, we have a drizzle. The trees at Nyhaven provide scant shelter. Might as well brave it and walk towards Amalienborg Palace, the royal residence. Not much shelter there either accept under the arches connecting the four similar buildings that form the square in the middle. Normally it is devoid of people except for those who opt to visit the palace museum. Today, just as we approach one of the arches we hear marching , and there we are having exclusive views of the changing of the Guards. The Danish Royal Guards march from Rosenborg Castle, well known for its gardens, to Amalienborg Palace.The blue and black uniforms stand out. There is a band since the Queen is in residence, this being her winter abode. There is no fancy footwork. A far cry from London or Stockholm, indeed. At least, the normally quiet square was enlivened for a few minutes, with tourists, music and ceremony.
Stiff, formal Monaco makes up with views
Monaco's Palace, in use for 7 centuries (no newer palaces built because of land scarcity), sits atop a hill. We usually climb up the side of the hill, walk through a garage, take an elevator to a higher level and then walk through the Princess Grace Gardens and Oceonagraphic centre before we reach the Palace. Just before 12 noon the roads are closed off so the square before the Palace is clear. The guards are in white. It seems they are dressed in black during the winter months. It is a very short drill, but ceremonious neverthless. It may not be exciting but the fantastic views of the harbour all around us more than makes up for the lack of oomph. It's not reasonable to expect grandiose performances of such a small area.
Athens: Pom-pom Pomp steeped in history
The first time we found ourselves in Syntagma Square only because the park had a bench under a shady tree where we could enjoy our sandwiches. When we look up from our mouthfuls we see strangely clad men marching with their feet swinging high with the pom-poms on their feet jiggling. Curious, we walk closer to find out what it is all about. We are actually at the Tomb of the Unknown soldier and the changing of the Guards has just ended. On our next visit, our grandchildren accompany us. They would certainly get a thrill out of this. And so, as soon as we finish our visit to the Acropolis, we head towards Syntagma Square just in time for the ceremony. It is actually below the Greek Parliament and Presidential Mansion.
The guards, called the Evzones, march in from the barracks behind the parliament to the accompaniment of a band. Apparently the sentry changes every hour, while the grand ceremony only takes place on Sundays. The distinction here is that the sentries do a slow march, perhaps to facilitate the return of blood circulation, having stood motionless for an hour.
Their uniform, made up of twelve parts, is also unique -- handmade, intricately detailed:
▪︎soft red cap with a silk tassel,
▪︎dark hand embroidered wool waist coat,
▪︎wide sleeved white shirt,
▪︎a kilt like garment made of 30 m of fabric with 40 pleats,
▪︎3 kg white shoes (with at lease 60 nails on the sole), hand stitched, pointed upward, covered with huge black silk pom pom,
▪︎woollen stockings, silk garters with tassels,
▪︎a gun that weighs over 5 kg.
It is easy to become dishevelled with all the tassels, pom-poms and loose clothes as they march or as the wind blows. That is taken care of by off duty guards who quickly do the 'touch up', adjusting the wayward pieces.
What happpens if the sentry on duty who does not move at all has a problem? That's where the gun is extremely useful. A heavy tap on the ground summons an off duty guard who verbalises possible problems to which the answers are made with blinks. Go figure the unique codes!
There is a whole lot of history in the spectacle. Imagine the hours needed to put on the various layers of clothing and training to march in a unique style. Something to marvel at, indeed.
Drum struck in Seoul
Fooled
From Incheon, our cruise port, we take a local bus to Seoul and then walk the arterial road that leads us straight to the Grand Palace aka Gyeongbokgung Palace,.
As we approach the huge gate we see women dressed in Korean costume, the hanbok. Wondering if it is a special cultural event I approach a giggling young lady with my question. She doesn't speak English. I try another young woman. She said the hotel lent it to them for the day. Others had rented their costumes and these women were all foreign tourists, mostly from China. I later learnt that if you were dressed in a hanbok entry to the Palace was free! A great disappointment indeed that I was easily fooled!
A Chinese boy, a tourist, took a liking to Drink nd happily posed for a photograph.
Appeased
The huge palace grounds accommodating the architecturally beautiful pavilions and pagodas, topped with Korean black tiles, set in scenic gardens, courtyards with cherry blossoms beside ponds, all against picturesque mountains in the background, easily took us an hour of walking. Just as we are about to find a place to rest our legs we hear drums and notice a crowd near the main gate.
Enraptured
As we approach gate, we see the crowd swelling and we also notice men in bright blue, red, green and yellow traditional costumes bearing spears and swords. There's excitement and anticipation in the air. We hear the band playing traditional music - drums, double reed oboe and the gong. The palace guards march towards the gate in precise formation that involves intricate movements and rituals syncing with beating drums and bellowing. Keys are then symbolically exchanged between the commanders of the outgoing and incoming guards. They have just reenacted the historical changing of the Royal guards! All of 40 mins.
As we walk towards the city centre we have a glimpse of another enactment at Deoksugung Palace replete with traditional musical instruments, and exchange of a password for verification followed by guard ceremony . The palace doors then close.
Whether colourful or not, whether small or big, the changing of the guards is charged with music, precision, history and does suffuse awe!
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