All keyed up for the highway that goes to the sea: Florida Keys

Trust our luck: when GPS fails

We drive from Fort Lauderdale, Florida, to Key West through the everglades, the largest tropical wilderness in the US, the waterways of which whir with activity. Airboats glide through groves of mangrove for eager safari goers to spot alligators, turtles and such in their natural habitat. We are supposed to turn left at a particular point towards Key West. We did but the road took us nowhere. Perhaps the GPS in our rented car needed time to reorient in this wilderness. We tried again.  Still no luck. So we decided to continue further and explore the next turn. It worked. A good sense of direction and distance estimates are highly valuable in moments like this.

We have arrived in Key Largo

The Spanish version translates to long (Largo) little island (key). It is 48 km long and 3.2 km wide. This is the biggest of the 1700 islands that make up the Florida  Keys. When we came here a few years before, driving all the way from Fort Lauderdale, a storm was impending. It was very close to sunset as we arrived at the information centre. We were warned to stay put since driving any further would be hazardous. We were not prepared to be tossed and turned and blinded by any natural hazard and so decided to stay the night on this island. The centre is able to arrange for our stay in a nearby hotel. The storm is predicted to be a few hours away. 

Testing the waters

Since we have a little time, and there is still some daylight, we decide to drive towards Key West for about an hour and then return to safety. This drive brings home the fact that we are taking a huge risk. The bridge that connects to the next island seems to part the sea. Before we know it we have crossed the island on to another bridge and another island. These islands are so small they are barely visible from the bridge. The raised walls of the bridges and the median are painted a light blue and so until our eyes are acquainted with them we seem to be literally on a narrow isthmus , the seas frighteningly close on either side. Most of the roads are single lane and are not lit at night. A hair raising experience.

The storm blew over during the night. The next day dawned with a sparkle. But we had to return to Fort Lauderdale for our flights.

A coral necklace

A few years later we start from Naples, Florida, therefore arriving at Key Largo before noon.  The weather is excellent. We are back on the Overseas Highway route which connects the string of keys that form an arc from the tip of Florida. The statistics are stupefying. The Highway with 42 bridges connecting 44 islands is 180 km long in total. Every now and then a sign board appears to indicate a beach or a water activity. We exit at one that  almost immediately puts us onto a rather small beach with turquoise blue waters. That is all there is to this tiny island! It's as though these islands are coral beads strung into a necklace by the bridges.

Every which way

Driving from Key Largo to Key West we are on the Bay side (driving on the right) and so we are driving along Florida Bay and the Gulf of Mexico, curving to the left. When we drive back we are on the Ocean side, i.e. along the Atlantic Ocean.

Since there are so many curves in this stretch, addresses on the connected islands cannot have the typical compass point descriptors, but MM which stands for milestone marker.  Addresses descend on the right as we drive toward the tip. Hence, Key West is an MM0. We start at MM 105

‘Slicing’ through open waters 

The longest bridge is the Seven Mile Bridge. Yes, you guessed it, over seven miles of water. Imagine driving on it on a cold, blustery, windy day under a sky laden with heavy clouds. The warning at Key Largo on our previous trip was serious indeed. The bridge connects vibrant Marathon, one of the bigger islands in the middle Keys to Duck Key, which has a posh residential area.

A Marathon indeed

Parallel to this bridge is another that stands out like a skeleton. Marathon got its name from the workers toiling nonstop to build the bridge,  the original oversea railroad, a part of which has been turned into a popular pedestrian bridge.

We arrive at Key West, park the car, and then, of course, walk the streets of the island of coral rock and limestone with an area slightly bigger that 3×6 km.

Where great minds came to write and relax

The huge building, the Southernmost Hotel stands out. Then comes the spacious Spanish colonial house where Hemmingway used to live and which continues to be the residence of his 6-toed cat's descendants. Other great writers like Tennessee Williams  and Robert Frost have also called the island their home. Add to that list President Harry Truman who spent summers here in his Little White House.

The Spanish-Cuban connection: historic charm

The architecture around us is charming. Homes and businesses have colourful facades, front porches and shutters. Called  cigar cottages or shotgun homes they have an interesting history. Typically they are each a long and narrow rectangle with a porch, with decorative wood work, and a gabled roof. The picturesque diminutive dwellings arr often only about 4 metres wide with rooms one behind the other making them cheaper and faster to build. Perhaps they are called shotgun homes because if someone fires a shotgun from the porch the bullet would pass straight through to the back of the house!

Why the haste and the compactness?  

Cuba is closer to Key West than Miami is. Naturally Key West had Cuban immigrants, one of whom established a cigar factory on the island to escape Cuban tariffs. This led to a major cigar industry attracting more Cuban immigrants to work in the industry. They needed to be housed in a small area as quickly as possible

A lesson in Spanish

We have passed over Islamorada. To the uninitiated, like I was at first, it's read Islam-orada. But it is actually Isla( Spanish for island) Morada.

A museum for wrecks?

The Atlantic Gulf Stream  was crucial to navigation between Europe and the New World. Galleons laden with treasure for European monarchs plied the route. But often they struck the reefs. The salvage industry boomed until legislation had to be put into place to discourage looting.

Navigating through Key West: take your pick.

There are just too many cars. The streets are bustling with people. It's safer to park the car for a fee and then explore on foot. The best way to soak in the atmosphere. Scooter, bikes, mopeds, pedi-cabs,electric cars and trolley cars are available for a fee. They all add to the vibrancy of the town.

Packing a punch

The heart of Key West is bustling with culture and nightlife. It's filled with restaurants, bars, galleries, and shops selling unique gifts, clothes, and, of course,  hand-rolled cigars. Music fills the air as you walk past.

The pleasant and the unpleasant.

While the islands are sought-after for their idyllic climate and crystal clear beaches, fishing, diving, snorkelling, etc. hurricane warnings are to be taken seriously. Evacuation can become difficult. Since there is only one road connecting the islands to the mainland traffic can come to a standstill. People could be stranded without services and communications. That is why this unique Highway is aptly referred to as the umbilical cord.

Not to forget, key lime pie is ubiquitous to the island. Made of key limes which are more tart than lemons, it is typically topped with meringue. Do not be surprised if it is commonly eaten for breakfast. No surprise that pineapples and sapodillas are also grown here.

The "Highway that Goes to Sea”  is a vibrant mix of history, culture, picturesque communities, and plenty of water related activities with different islands specialising in some areas..

Yet despite their small size, these islands support lively, communities.

Abundance of character: Dublin, Ireland

Different country, different currency

It's hard to believe that we are no longer in the UK but we are definitely in Britain. (United kingdom= England+Wales+Scotland+Northern Ireland 

Britain= UK +  Ireland)

The Euro, not the Sterling Pound, is the currency here.

The double decker buses are not red, but yellow and blue.

To me Dublin is special because of its literary greats, its history and its cultural vibe.  

It being a UNESCO city of Literature I have liberally used quotes from the greatest of Dublin writers whose works I'm acquainted with.

Habit is a great deadener.
Waiting for Godot by Samuel Beckett

As usual, we do not have a plan. Right after we check into a hostel we start exploring, wanting to make best use of the evening before it gets too dark . 

Blessed is he who expects nothing, for he shall never be disappointed. Jonathan Swift  of Gulliver's travels

How inspiring that the very first thing that catches the eye is the bronze statue of James Joyce!

For myself, I always write about Dublin, because if I can get to the heart of Dublin I can get to the heart of all the cities of the world. In the particular is contained the universal.  James Joyce on Dubliners

What a promising start!

Sure enough the very next thing that kindles us is the pedestrians, especially because they are clutching tote bags of various sizes and material with the Guinness logo on them. Of course,Guiness beer is made here.The Guinness Storehouse is Dublin's, and by dint,  Ireland's, topmost tourist attraction. Strangely, right before us stands a tall modern building with the iconic Heineken sign on it. It turns out that this is the  O’Connell Bridge House which has exhibited various brands over the years, such as Sony, Coca-Cola, and even Guinness. That's something to chew on.

There are no strangers here. Only friends you haven't met. W B Yeats

And then we find ourselves walking on a cobbled street that is filled with boutiques, funky shops, eclectic cafes, nightclubs and bars. We are on the streets of Temple Bar. It is beginning to explode with music ready for hordes of tourists. Great minds need to relax, too.

The passing of time

Within minutes we are on the famed Ha'penny Bridge with a handful of the quotidian love locks. The filigree bridge once charged a half-penny for crossing! And then we catch sight of a unique building in the corner made by two streets. It's the Pen Corner, an iconic store that sells everything you need for writing, especially fountain pens and paper. The store has since closed and those of us who do not use traditional writing implements understand why. 

After all this is writers’ land: symbolism and lore

A gleaming gold tree stands  out at a bank. A sign of the country's high economic rating!

Then there is the statue of Molly Malone. Who was she? In Irish folklore,she was a tart with a cart. She sold tarts in the day; at night she sold herself. Such was the life of working class women now immortalized not only in the statue but also in a popular song called Cockles and Mussels.

I don’t have ugly ducklings turning into swans in my stories. Maeve Binchy

But a black pool has turned into a field. That takes us to the origin of the name Dublin. It is made up of two words: Dubh and Linn which respectively mean black and pool. The pool was at the confluence of the two rivers, Liffey and Poddle. Poddle fed the moat surrounding the castle we are on it. It has since been filled and is Dubh Linn Gardens. 

As is true of many old buildings the castle has played many roles over the years.

It is getting dark and a few drops warn us of a wet evening. But there is still some natural light to give us a glimpse of the Dublin Spire.  If we linger a little longer we would  see it lit up and therefore be awestruck by its 121 meters in all its glory.

We pass by the ornate pillars at O'Connell bridge, the oldest bridge( built at the end of the 18th century) across the river, now widened to accommodate more traffic. And then into our hostel.

The huge poster that we pass with the male figure tripping over a suitcase, though meant as an advertisement for something else, neatly sums up our occasional dilemma with suitcases.

Early the next morning we set off towards the castle because Trinity College, Dublin's oldest and most illustrious college is adjacent to it. 

Along the way are ancient streets that have preserved history with sections of the old wall, etc. There is so much to explore.

Always forgive your enemies; nothing annoys them so much. Oscar Wilde

Apparently, the river Liffy divides Dublin into North and South and, yes, with some deep rooted rivalry. 

The Universal Link On Human Rights sculpture along the banks with an eternal gaslight flame has a powerful message: we are prisoners of conscience.

As we cross the river we get beautiful pictures of the custom house reflected in the water.

Also, in the distance there appears a futuristic bridge with a span like that of a harp( the national symbol) on its edge. It's the Samuel Beckett Bridge. Closer to us is the replica of the Jeanie Johnston, one of the famine ships that sailed millions of immigrants escaping the potato famine,  to the New world. The replica is within sight of the monument. 

Once a King in Narnia, always a King in Narnia The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe by C.S. Lewis

Treasured moments 

We have arrived at Trinity College. To step into the campus, with its notable bell tower, on the hallowed grounds tread by notable alumni, including Bam Stoker of Dracula, is almost like a pilgrimage.

Adding to the awe is the knowledge that the  Book of Kells, a thousand year old book, with exquisite and intricate illustrations by Celtic monks, is on display in the Old Library. Not surprisingly, the queue waiting in line to purchase tickets is impossibly long.  I'm quite satisfied being in the vicinity. But other areas of the University are free to saunter into and therefore the ambience registers. At one portal, the Nobel Laureate George Bernard Shaw,  an aristocrat with a loveless childhood who became a champion of worthy causes,  stands loftily reflecting on the passers by!

Pose with a dandy: The Importance of Being Earnest 

A little further away is a rectangular park. At the nearest corner is a large crowd either posing for or taking photographs. Who is that figure sitting so dandily on the rock! I tentatively make my way through the crowd and self consciously pose for a shot. This dramatic figure is none other  than  Oscar Wilde, the writer of the above book, known for his satire and how he challenged gender roles.  The  historic street lamps and various other sculptures do not seem to get as much attention. And to think that I had earlier passed by his childhood home . The statue of Oscar Wilde is striking. It depicts the man of letters in a dandy pose resting on a boulder. 

Swinging [bridge] across from the lighthearted to the heavy hearted

We cross the Liffey over the Sean O’Casey  bridge which is a pedestrian swing bridge. It rotates 90°. Now we are on a cobblestoned boardwalk. A haunting scene confronts us. Emaciated figures of man, woman, child and a dog, carrying bundles of their meager possessions in the process of escaping  the potato famine. A grim reminder of a harrowing journey.  A game changing catastrophe.

Moving on.

Across the river we now see the new Docklands replete with sleek skyscrapers in modern architectural style. A preschool stands out for its colorful jigsaw puzzle mural.

Dublin has so much in such a walkable space. It has such variety and colour. It is a beautiful symbiosis of the old and new, the past and the present. 

Note:

One of the reasons for why I write:

We do not write in order to be understood; we write in order to understand. Cecil Day-Lewis

Charming location and hospitality: Rosslare, Ireland

 Rosslare,  Ireland: what did we really expect?    

Surprise 1: bus[y]ness

We are in Rosslare mainly because it is on route to Dublin. The three hour ferry ride from Pembroke Dock, Wales, drops us at  Europort. We find the port very busy as it has ferries plying to Spain and France as well!  As soon as we get our bearings we discover that the railway station is literally only a few minutes walk from the dock. 

Surprise 2: Views

Our stay is at a building just across the railway line but on a hill.  It being late in the evening we think, we should try a shortcut instead of following the windy road which meant walking a lot further from the starting point. We negotiate a slope and a rickety wooden staircase to reach the road on which our accommodation sits. In the balmy twilight we have great views of Europort. Further away is the strand!

Surprise 3: climate and flora

There are actually tropical plants and trees! We could have been anywhere in the Mediterranean! No surprise that Rosslare has been a tourist spot for more than a century! 

Surprise 4: dazzling modern Victorian 

As we enter our host greets us with such a huge heart warming smile. We are dazed. When the daze wears off a little we have reason to be even more charmed. There are two lounges with dainty rose print wallpaper and comfiest of sofas and  Victorian lampshades. A dining room conjures up promises of a comforting highly proper breakfast served on elegant crockery with appropriate cutlery

Our rooms? By far the best

A highly polished set of stairs leads us to a large bedroom with similar rose patterned wall paper and linen. The bathrooms are clean and very modern. The WiFi is incredibly fast.

Surprise 5 : We are in a popular holiday destination

It has a lot to do with history and geography

We are actually in a building that was once a courthouse. What an incredible makeover the owners have made.

The Irish Ros Lair means ‘the middle peninsula’: not middling but a go between! 

The weather has lent to its epithet: the sunniest spot in Ireland. 

It has a long beach.

In the early 20th century the harbour was beginning to silt and therefore would reduce traditional movement of goods and people which is why the Rosslare Harbour also became Rosslare Europort with the added railway. 5 trains a day run to Dublin.

No wonder then that it remains an easily accessible vacation spot.

Is it all a dream?

As we are to take the train to Dublin soon after breakfast our host has arranged an early breakfast for us. It is what I had expected. A full Irish breakfast is presented to us with such cordiality and elegance that makes me want to pinch myself to wake up from a dream!

Is the proof really in the pudding?

We are served two unique puddings in slab form – one pale  and the other a Reddish black. Now the revelation. They are not the familiar sweet dairy based desserts. They are concocted from meat scraps, offal, and blood so butchers need not throw these items out! They are called puddings because they are boiled or steamed inside a cloth.  The ‘white’ does not contain blood. The ‘black’ does. Do they generally make them at home? No, they come in sausage form from the deli. They are sliced into discs for serving.

When it is time to leave, our host for the day offers to drive us to the station. We should have hugged her.

We are quite reluctant to leave on our 3 hour train ride to Dublin, but we must go on.

Trundling across 2 countries in the United Kingdom

 From one country to the next

England and Wales are 2 of the 4 countries that comprise the UK

Our plan is to take the train from Paddington Station in London,England, to Pembroke Dock in Wales, eventually crossing the Irish Sea to Ireland. Tickets have to be bought in advance. You may buy tickets at the station but not for the train scheduled at that time. Also they are generally cheaper if bought ahead. We had standard class tickets for a high speed train with just a few stops along the 327 km route that would take 6 hours to traverse.

The sleek train is punctual. Paddington station is colourful and very busy.. The station personnel are cheerful. We easily find our coach and settle into the clean, cosy seats. The train leaves the station passing by the gloomy suburbs, leaving behind the red buses and the crowds.

Towns and hamlets: highly diverse

In cool comfort we are treated to the idyllic countryside. Once in a while a distant baronial castle tower or a church spire pokes up in the distance. Closer to the tracks are the row houses with their chimneys lined up in military precision.  A quaint village pops up now and then.

The stations

Gorgeous! Each rural railway station is unique and beautiful. As we slow down towards them we get a not so hazy view of the agricultural activities. The sheep, the cattle and the horses all contentedly grazing on the verdant leas and meadows  under a blue sky.

 

When did we cross the border?

How do we know we've crossed the border into Wales? 

No large noticeable board. Only that signs are in both English and Welsh. The largest railway station, a modern take, is the one at Cardiff. No surprise as it is the capital of Wales and the 7th largest city in the UK.

Waterways: no bores

We may have crossed various creeks but most interestingly, after Cardiff, we are chugging along a coast which seems to have shoals. We are going along  the estuary of the Severn River, Britain's longest river that eventually becomes the Bristol Channel. A couple is taking a walk with their child in a perambulator. A few are gathering cockles, I presume. I now know that we were then passing the Welsh Coastal Path.

Apparently the river mouth gives rise to tidal bores during high tide. This causes waves of different heights and force on different parts of the river depending on the width and curve. River surfing enthusiasts attempt to surf along on the wave

Pembroke Dock

We arrive at our destination in the evening and find our way to our B and B. It is a quiet part of the town. A quick walk around the town takes us to the main street which is also tranquil. A mediaeval tower seen on a hill had been the centre of a settlement,known as Paterchurch, on farmland. The tower served as a lookout over the centuries. 

Pembroke dock Heritage 

Our morning began with a typical Welsh heritage breakfast which included sausage and bacon. I was thankful for the cheerios and the coffee. A walk through the residential area takes us to a patch of blackberries. Needless to say we plucked a handful to savour their freshest  juice.The Heritage museum tells of the history of Pembroke Dock. 

We learn that during WW2, Pembroke Dock became the world’s largest flying boat station and home base to airmen from many countries 

Crossing the border again

That evening we board a bus that takes us into a ferry that will sail us across the Irish Sea, crossing the border into Ireland. While on the ferry we were free to sit in the lounges. When we reboard the bus just as we are to Dock in Rosslare, Ireland, an immigration officer boards the bus to check our passports. 

Take away:

Experienced a comfortable, admirably scenic journey in the oldest railway system in the world.

Recall:

I did have an issue with the London trains when my train from Gatwick to the city was delayed by 3 hours. All we knew was something went wrong with the electrical system. No one knew when , or if at all, services would resume. I was to go up to Kew Gardens. When the trains really did resume I made my way to the Kew station, but the sun was already setting and by the time  I reached the garden it would be dark. 

In World War II Pembroke Dock became the world’s largest flying boat station and home base to airmen from many countries

Swept up in the adventure of travel: Rubesi and Opatija, Croatia

 Crisscrossing Eastern Europe 

After spending a few days in Zagreb, Croatia we drive towards Lubjlina, Slovenia, not directly but as close to the Adriatic coast as possible. Staying in one of the coastal towns would have been ideal. Searching through Airbnb did not give us results as they were all booked. The best we could find was one near Opatija. 

Lost on the slope

We arrive at the destination on the main road of Rubesi with 2 way traffic. But it has little to do with the address we have. We should probably be taking one of the streets that peel off from the arterial road. The road leads us down a steep slope and we still cannot find our accommodation. Once in a while a car comes down or struggles up the narrow road and there is little safe space to reverse or take a U-turn. So we decide that the driver, our son, should go ahead and find a pendicular road that can lead us to a parallel one so we could continue the search. Drink and I decide to search on foot to try our luck. Would be a good workout for our feet. We are hoping the driver comes back to pick us up after he has scouted the area. Nothing happens for what seems like ages. We are tired and decide to find a shady place to wait so that our son could easily trace us. After nearly a half hour, he's calling for us from up the steep slope. He has found the rooms and has parked the car. It would have been too confusing to negotiate the maze of lanes that lead up to the many geographically hidden entrances. 

Airbnb: Heartwarming  fact

Our host is a pleasant lady whose son is studying engineering in Switzerland. Her hospitality  business helps pay for his education.

Rubesi: ripe for puns.

We decide to explore the hillside residential area. Almost every house has grapevines along porches, over opensided garages, and everywhere the vine can take hold. Fig trees everywhere, even a lonely one along the railway tracks. In wild abandon! So trivial? Is this the reason for the idiom ‘don't care a fig’? And, laurel trees! We deserve ‘a crown of laurels' indeed  for traipsing the undulating, sometimes rutted, lanes.

A unique structure, a breathtaking view

A walk to the town on the flatter top of the slope leads us to Lidl where we shop for grocery to prepare our dinner and the next day's lunch. It threatens to rain on the way back and we are not too keen about slippery slopes. In spite of it, the strange statue in a unique style looming over us draws us.  A memorial for the 52 townsfolk who died for the town– fallen fighters and victims of fascist terror. It impresses with its size and unique style. Built entirely by town volunteers.

The area around it offers a panoramic view of the peaceful сoasts of Rijeka and Opatija. More than enough to tempt us to visit.

Potential for adventure: trust our feet and our sense of direction 

There are buses from the arterial road to Opatija but we delight in challenging ourselves with  the untrodden path. Didn't we have a glimpse of the breathtaking coast from the memorial? Surely we can wing it.

So, down we go, passing by multistorey buildings (probably holiday rentals), multi garage homes, little cottages. In one of the plots there is even a large gaping muddy hole partly filled with water. The beginnings of a foundation? This slope is  certainly a holiday spot. We climb across an overhead bridge, in a state of disrepair, across the road we would have ridden through had we driven or taken a bus. The view of the coast and the red roofed town is enticing. We cross a railway track where stumpy trees are laden with figs. Are they edible? No way we're going to experiment.

Sounds of Silence

We find ourselves on an undulating road shaded by trees. It's a very lonely, well paved road. We have to take a few sharp u-turns and a couple of stair cases before we set foot on the narrow rocky ledge along the Adriatic that quickly broadens out into an esplanade. 

The water is clear and cool. Add the Mediterranean climate. Factors for a highly popular tourist spot. Today it seems a little slow and quiet. After all, Opatija did start off as a sleepy fishing village. There appears to be no public washrooms. However there are several dimly-lit restaurants. Boats are moored at the two different bays. We have the area almost all to ourselves. Having walked around exploring the elegant pastel-coloured dwellings with rustic gardens and the short narrow staircases leading up to  buildings further up, we sit down to simply enjoy the breeze and the view. Most of the time we hear the call of birds and our footsteps on the rocks.

The low down: serving residents 

Two large garbage bins sit alongside a road. We try one of them. The lid does not budge. Now a woman approaches it, waves a card, it opens, and in goes the garbage. Bins that can only be activated by residents who have the necessary coded card! Private garbage cans that would not overflow with indiscriminate use by the public!

Earth shaking: Factual knowledge

A huge board in front of an old building has a story to tell. The edifice used to house Andrija Mohorovicic, a well known Croatian meteorologist, who has a crater on the moon named after him. He showed us that the Earth is layered thus contributing to seismology so crucial to predicting earthquakes.

Maribor, Slovenia: Unruined

 ‘Curiouser and curiouser’ as Alice would say

After 2 days in Opatija, Croatia, we drove via Ljubljana, Slovenia, on to Maribor where we were going to spend a night before going on to Vienna, Austria.

The route was lined with vineyards and acres and acres of, what seems to the untrained eye, pepper vines. But were they really? These are shady plants. The greenish conical ‘fruits’ are drooping with their weight. The foliage seems dense. As they grow they cling on to ropes! 

What are they?

Acquired taste: more to experience

We did not have difficulty finding our accommodation. A series of rooms with a hodge podge kitchen in the half basement. Our host is a school teacher. She welcomes us with shot glasses of home-made yellowish wine garnished with tiny flowers from her garden. Should we have taken the shots right away? Being teetotalers and unsure of the custom we set it aside for ‘later’. 

Since it's close to sunset we simply make ourselves comfortable, quickly prepare dinner, connect to the Internet, contact our host at the next destination, preview our itinerary for the next day and then just before we retire for the night, believing that our welcome drink would be stale enough, we take sips. Our faces immediately contort. Our tongues are not ready for what we unanimously felt was unpalatable. 

The burning question 

What were those vines we saw on our way to Marbor? Hops. So says our host proudly. They are a vital ingredient in beer making. Was it beer that she had offered us the day before. Not in shot glasses! At least, that much I know.

More to discover

As usual we have a hearty breakfast and pack our picnic lunch before driving into the city centre of Maribor.  The town is very quiet. But as we find a place to park we notice a hub of activity. It is market day. Fresh vegetables laid out on simple foldable tables in rows of covered stalls . As we get closer we notice that the stalls have only the discards. After all, it is late morning. Only one stall has some fresh undamaged beans left and so we buy some to cook at our next place of stay. The fruits are tempting but we already have a generous supply.

Drawn to a curious booth we approach for an inspection. It houses a recess with a glass door. You could place a milk bottle in it under a spigot, press the relevant button and fill up to a litre of milk after having tipped the coin slot. A basic vending machine that serves its purpose very well indeed.

The Old Town

The excitement over, we begin to explore the city laid out on the banks of the Duva River, with swans gracing its banks and gliding across the waters.

The ruins of mediaeval walls and buildings are hard to miss. The plaques tell us of the squat Water Tower (that doesn't look like one), and the Judgement Tower, both built for fortification while Slovenia was still part of Austria. The Jewish tower and synagogue (second oldest in Europe) attest to the Germanisation of Austria and the consequent suffering during WWII when most of the city was destroyed. And then of course the area became part of Yugoslavia before becoming independent Slovenia (1991).

Idyllic and record breaking

The long building with a dense vine stretched over its length draws our interest. We could have easily dismissed it as a decorative creeper.  It's actually a 400 year old grape vine, the world's oldest according to the Guiness Book of World Records.. Yellow walls and red roof tiles ( same as our host's residence) and a dense dark green vine. It can’t  get more picturesque.

A greater appreciation: history and agriculture

We stroll towards the city centre to be greeted by even more ‘curious’ monuments: 

A huge wine barrel. The sign at the entrance to the building nearby tells us that this barrel is not simply whimsy. Maribor is surrounded by vineyards. The building is a wine museum with one of the oldest and  largest  wine cellars in Europe.  It has wine tasting sessions as well. It makes no difference to us that it is closed today. Now we truly understand our host's welcoming gesture. 

Another oddity loomed up: a huge rotund sculpture. It resembled a spherical head with neat swatches of hair neatly combed down the sides to conceal baldness! Seriously, it's a  monument to the monument to the nearly 700 hostages and rebels who were killed by German forces during the National Liberation War (WWII).

In the main square of the city is yet another monument.  This time it is an elaborate marble structure with intricate details to memorialize the nearly  one third of the population that died during the Plague.

Two modern and one  baroque style monuments. What next? Our ramble takes us to a Gothic Cathedral and a Renaissance style town hall. 

 

European Capital of Culture: Who would have known?

Leaving the cobble-stoned old city and its narrow alleys and courtyards we saunter into the paved modern streets in the new part of the town.  It is all so quiet it's hard to believe that Maribor is the second largest city in Slovenia as well as voted the cultural Capital of Europe in 2012.  

It goes without saying that travellers like us who enjoy discovery, who want to truly appreciate the local inhabitants, get the full deal when there are few tourists of the kind who simply follow guides, arguably for a better appreciation, afraid that they might miss something they had read about or had been touted.

Trivia:

The Duava River connects Slovenia to Italy, Austria, Croatia and Hungary.

Canadian road trip: Stunning features and a testament to grit

 Saskatoon to Montreal: Testament to vastness  Boy, was it ever!

We have made several road trips across Canada and yet we are surprised at what we encounter. Hamlets that are known only to a relatively few people turn up igniting a yearn to explore. Alas, the roads that lead to them may not be paved and when you are on a schedule you don't want to take risks. This sign board in Ontario appeared on the Trans-Canada ( the T-can) on our road trip from Saskatchewan to Quebec. What will it lead too?!

Bucolic beginning:Saskatoon to Regina 

This is the shortest leg of our journey. It's nearing autumn. We pass by the posh residential area in Saskatoon. The glowing sun has a midas touch over the vast wheat fields that follow. The hay has been cut and bundled into neat rolls. The soya, canola,sunflower and corn fields are full of promise. The cows and the horses contentedly graze the gleanings. 

The last few days have been physically tiring. What better way to stretch our legs and have a breath of fresh air than to stop for tea in a grove? Davidson, Saskatchewan, has the perfect spot.

And then we see the sign board for Findlater! Is it a favourable sign? We will find out later.

Regina to Portage La Prairie: lower speeds

After a very relaxing night at Travelodge and a highly satiating continental breakfast we resume our journey. 

More harvesting and neat cubes of straw bales stacked high. An ever so long goods train passes by. We cross the border into Manitoba, bypass Brandon and Winnipeg. In Saskatchewan highway speed is generally 110km/h. Not so in Manitoba. Only 100km/h. But with towns, bends, 2-way lanes and road works we are much slower.

Portage La Prairie to Thunder Bay: A good start

Another good night's sleep in a beautiful, one of a kind resort-like hotel (CanadInns) and a hearty continental breakfast ( a surprise gift for August guests)and we are in full holiday mode. 

Just behind the hotel is the world famous coke can. The relocated curiosity was actually a 26m  water tower built in 1905. Relocated to the present site it was rebranded by the Coca-Cola company. We couldn't resist visiting the historic railway station. We are well aware that we have a terribly long way to go.

Change is in the air

The rolling prairies are now slowly giving way to rugged country. At some points there are road blocks warning us of rocks being blasted to make way for wider roads. The Trans-Canada, two way for the most part, has passing lanes every 10 km or so. We drive conscientiously slightly under the recommended 100km/h. And so we lead a very long line of cars and an unbelievable number of juggernauts just rearing to go at the next passing lane. And when we are at that point they whizz past us. Counting them becomes an amusement. We can't help but notice that the daredevils are mostly Ontario registered vehicles! 

We skip Kenora, a beautiful town along the shores of Lake Superior, for we simply must get on.  

Visual treats

Our route follows the contours of Lake Superior for the most part with every curve or hill offering us a view of blue waters whether of some smaller lake or that of the largest. Some lakes we cut across on causeways. We discover West Beach, the lake waters ruffled by the strong chilly wind, because we needed to use the amenities. We spotted a windmill (apparently a tourist attraction) from afar.

Can we make it?

Once we cross into Ontario the speed limit reduces further to 90 km/h due to the rugged terrain. For what seems like hours we pass between large walls of roughly hewn boulders. Again we create a chain of vehicles behind us until they can safely pass. Ominous clouds appear on the horizon. We planned to reach Thunder Bay before sunset but it's not going to happen because of the speed limit, as well as stopping almost every hour for gas, for there's no guarantee that you'll find a gas station when you need it. The towns are about an hour apart and their population is generally less than 1000.

Nerve wracking

It rains intermittently. At one point it picks up and our wipers go full speed. The splash and spray from passing trucks blind us. We drive with our hazard lights on. The sun is obliterated by the dark clouds. We have our headlights on. Oncoming drivers do not always dim their lights in response to ours. About one hour into this sticky situation the rain let's up. We breathe a sigh of relief only to be greeted by a series of lightning. And then all hell breaks loose. 

The night seems to be loaded with omens. Blinding sheet rain that wipers found difficult to swipe off. The grieving skies pound on the roof. Would our sun roof leak? It's beginning to steam up in the car. No amount of vigorous wiping is fast enough to clear even a small portion of the glass. Signs that warn of the danger caused by moose at night appear. And then the rain lets up a little. We turn on the heat to keep the glass from misting up and pick up speed. Even then trucks and cars are nonchalantly passing us. 

Nail biting

The rain picks up again. Within a few minutes we hear a loud snap. Did we drive over something? Did something fall on us? No! The wiper on the driver's side has snapped off due to fatigue. It is certainly not wise to stop a car and search for the blade in the gathering darkness, especially when traffic shows no indication of stopping for a car with hazard lights on.

The lighting continues. The rain drops to a drizzle. We have already passed Dryden where we topped up our fuel tank. A truck stop along the way did not have wipers that met our needs.We are a long way from there. Taking a huge risk we manage to drive past Upsala, until we find one lonely light at what could have been a motel. We stop under the light to inspect the wiper. Only the blade has snapped off. So we try to replace it with the one on the passenger side. We are getting wet and the catch refuses to budge. 

A friendly hand

An elderly man is out walking his dog. He's reluctant to talk to us at first and then he sizes us up, apologises and asks if we need help. He gets his engineer son from probably one of the motel rooms. He manages the snaps and the switch is done. The older man tells us of how he and his son were on a boat on Lake Superior that evening when the weather worsened and they began to rock dangerously.

We have 130 km to go. Now the rain has petered down to reluctant drops and so we resume our drive. The driver can see ahead of him but not the passenger. The rain hasn't done with pelting us. Within a few minutes the other wiper too gives up and rests neatly along the hood.  We have taken enough risks for the day.

Distress of highest priority

Should we just have asked for a room at the motel we had stopped by, assuming it was a motel? Anyway turning around in poor visibility would just be too risky. Traffic is still passing us. We decide to pull out onto the apron and wait for the rain to stop. It does look as though the skies are determined to test us. We call CAA. There is no tower signal! Luckily we have an alternate Telco. That works. Once we give the agent our approximate position and our problem he puts us on the highest priority. We get a message that CAA does not replace wipers but will tow us to our destination. It will take the truck 2 hours to reach us. It's 11pm now. We'll have to wait till 1 am. Having been at the edge of the seat for nearly an hour I lean back to try and sleep. We keep the seat belts on. But the driver is agitated. We have to keep our hazard lights on for nearly two hours. A moose might just come and nudge us. We are on the apron but trucks that whizz past can nudge us into whatever was on the passenger side– a ditch,a lake, a creek? We don't have a caution tape for the side of the car.

Make a dash

Within 20 mins the rain let's up. We make another bold decision. We don't need wipers now. We pull out carefully, pick up speed with a plan to get as close to Thunder Bay as we can. We call ahead so that we can check into our motel as soon as we arrive. This time we drive faster, but still below the speed limit. All along the way I'm peering at the mile markers to see how far we have come from the Manitoba border. Seeing the numbers increase gives us more confidence though I have to again sit at the edge  of the seat and look keenly into the darkness before the headlights light up the numbers.

A pat on the back for the driver

We have made it! We call CAA, much before they have even texted us about the estimated time of arrival, for the tow to cancel the assignment.

Thunder Bay to Sault Ste Marie

It must have been providence that we had booked two nights in Thunder Bay. Enough time to get over a gruelling night in hazardous driving conditions. When well rested we drive up to Terry Fox Memorial park, from where we watch the Sleeping Giant slumbering in the sparkling waters of Lake Superior and have a glimpse of  the American side of the great lake.

Luck favours us today

We purchase a wiper to replace the one we lost. We struggle with it when a passerby asks if we could manage and we proudly think so. After half an hour of struggling with a newfangled catch we are glad to have another passerby assist us. He is not one to give up. He tries out the different clasps and decides that the one we were trying on was the best fit. He too has to give up. How could a simple clasp be so mind-boggling? So we simply walk into the service centre to pay an expert to fix it for us. No one was available. The salesperson at the checkout counter took it upon himself to show us how to unlock the clasp. It was so simple. So in no time at all we had our windshield wipers back on at no extra cost!

Something I never knew

That evening we take a stroll to the Current River Dam. The Lakeshore Walk along Boulevard Lake created by the dam is calming. Its unique feature is the fish way/ladder, the very reason for the building of the dam. It is designed to allow Steelhead (trout) to migrate over the dam into the headwaters, and hopefully to produce a large stock. 

And then we meet a friendly elderly gentleman who points behind him and talks about how tall the plants are and how alive they become in Spring. 

It's a butterfly park fully taken care of by volunteers. There are very few butterflies now it being almost the end of summer. It is wonderful to see gardening equipment laid out neatly. Any responsible volunteer interested in the pollinator garden could manually help maintain the premises.

The next morning we begin our next leg.

Sault Ste Marie to North Bay

Soo ( that's how Sault is pronounced) delights us with its lock system. The ancient buildings, such as the superintendent's office, still stand though put to other uses. The renovated part of the canal is now used for leisure. It is fascinating to watch a tour boat rise in the canal from Lake Huron, the eddy created as the water rose becoming a playground for the duck that shows off his acrobatics. And then when the gate opens , the boat glides into the higher Lake superior.  The canal, once the longest in the world, helped bypass the rapids on St. Marys River that connected the two lakes. Besides just above us is the bridge that connects to the USA.

After this refreshing walk we continue our drive towards North Bay. We stop for a break at a small building in a sylvan setting on a bay. A beautiful watercolour painting of flowers in autumn colours catches my eye. Beside the painting is a used watercolour paint set and brushes. It is a painting by one of the famous Group of Seven landscape painters! As we pass through the town centre we see an attractive light house which is a replica of the one on Lake Superior. Apparently there is a good view of the famous lake from the top of this structure.

We stopped in Marathon for a refill when we noticed directions for White Pebble beach. Why not? It certainly lived up to its name.  It's a steep walk down to the beach along Lake Superior. The waters are crystal clear!

 

North Bay to Montreal

The sunset at North Bay near the Marina is beautiful. We have almost left the rugged terrain of the Canadian Shield. At Mattawa we are attracted to the Service Ontario building standing proud at an intersection. The building has information and clean washrooms. We continue towards Ottawa stopping by a picnic area. A unique camper trailer comes by. We are guessing it's German! On again towards Ottawa passing by picnic areas and beautiful towns on the shores of rivers and lakes. And then the border into Quebec. Traffic seems to be a mess.Within an hour we are at our hotel right next to the Montreal central library.  

Takeaways:

All along sign boards have indicated we've been close to the US border, the longest undefended border in the world, longer than the Nile.

We've driven across 4 provinces for nearly 3500 km over 7 days. In a trip done nearly 13 years ago we drove from Saskatchewan to New Brunswick and back over 2 weeks. A few years ago we did one from Saskathcewan to British Columbia and back over 8 days ( covered in a previous blog): No surprise for Canada is second only to Russia in size. The Trans-Canada goes from the Pacific Coast to the Atlantic Coast

Lake after lake: Canada has the greatest number of lakes in the world. 50% of the freshwater lakes of the world are in Canada. Its largest is Lake Superior which is second only to lake Baikal

Winning-the-Pooh: Winnie was the nickname for Winnipeg Bear donated to the London Zoo by a Winnipeg Soldier/vet who bought the cub in White River, Manitoba.

Signs that autumn has begun.