West Africa or Brazil?: Mindelo, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde

 

Mindelo,São Vicente,  Cape Verde: once a very important port 

My previous post covered Cidade Velha, the oldest Portuguese colonial port in the Cape Verde archipelago. That was on Santiago island. Our next stop was  Mindelo on Sao Vicente island. This deep water port, also the largest port in the islands, has an even more interesting history. Of the nine islands this was the last to be inhabited. In the 19th century, with the advent of sizable steam ships and increase in transatlantic traffic, Mindelo became the port for refuelling. The triangle trade brought British ships loaded with coal. Now it is the second largest city in the country after Praia, the capital. 

Landmarks

Closest to the port is the unmistakable Torre de  Bellum, a replica of the original: a 5 storey tower built in the 16th century to defend Lisbon, now a lighthouse and museum. The one that stands before us has only three stories and houses a museum that features the seafaring colonisers who conquered sea and land. Walking from the port towards the city along a palm lined highway we come across the eagle monument (commemorating the first Lisbon to Rio  air crossing in 1922 ) which then brings us to the esplanade with the Marina in clear view. 

As we saunter through the streets we are struck by the vibrant hues of the  colonial buildings contributing to a celebratory atmosphere.

History explains it all 

It is undoubtedly a beautiful city with colonial architecture, colourful buildings and a Brazilian vibe.The city's annual Carnival, the biggest in the country, turns the city 'Brazilian'  for a week. It shouldn't be a surprise as Brazil and Cape Verde were both part of the Portuguese Empire for 300 years. Cape Verde was a starting point for the Atlantic slave trade to Brazil. Brazil also administered Cape Verde in the early 19th century while the Portuguese court was transferred to Brazil. 

This port city is geographically in west Africa but has an unmistakable European feel making it the cultural capital of the islands. The infrastructure is attributed to the British.

 A conversation gives us a lead

We simply want to explore the surroundings by taking public transport before we go into the markets. A friendly looking man is leaning against a railing apparently waiting for something or someone. We strike up a conversation. And that is how we learn about a village at the foot of extinct volcanoes and another on the opposite side of town closer to the airport. It is not easy to remember the names since it's the first time we are hearing of them and in the adventurous spirit we do not even bother to write them down somewhere.  We approach a Toyota Hiace (a van with 3 rows of seats) and talk to the driver who says he is going towards the volcanoes( fortunately he spoke some English). We board and wait for other passengers. It is not a long wait since the seats fill up quickly ( refer to collectivos mentioned in my post on Praia). A formidable landscape

Our aluguer ( our shared taxi/van) moves off, passing by a very neat looking Jewish Cemetery which is said to be highly interesting because of the stories inscribed on some of the tombs. For some it is a pilgrimage to the famous Cape Verdean Singer, Cesária Évora, who is entombed here.

The terrain that we pass through is clearly volcanic and arid with vegetable patches near wells operated by wind power.

Where are the surfers and beach goers?

15 km later we reach Caulho Village, a fishing village, for that is where we are headed, pay the driver through the window and excitedly look around. The place seems to be deserted. We begin to worry if we'll ever get transport back to town. Nevertheless we walk around and reach the volcanic rock beach( known for its surf). We are definitely in the vicinity of extinct volcanoes. There are holiday chalets on the other side of the bay as well. Yet there is no sign of life. When we decide to seek shade we spot a cat in the verandah of an empty beach side house! I found out later that the bay opposite is called Baia De Gatas, Cats Bay! It is a resort but this is not the season.The colours of the houses and roofs complement the faint hues of volcanic sand and rocks.

After school

When we return to town, we pick up school children who are too shy to talk to us but excited to know we are teachers. We get back to the ship for a quick lunch and still have plenty of time to explore since we will not be sailing till much later in the evening.  We return to the Torre De Belem and the markets which are vibrant with colour and life! At the seafood market the fishmonger is dramatic in her hawking. The  heaped fruits and vegetables in the produce market are incredible for someone who has just seen the invariable land. The open market is filled with kiosks selling items from apparel to craft and souvenirs. Here we see the lively spark that we missed elsewhere.

A neat town

Then another aluguer ride takes us to Pedro village about 10 km away

in the southwestern part of the island. It is such a beautifully laid out residential area with compact colourful houses, well paved clean roads abd gardens. The huge park has a few well placed trees and small patches of greenery  with a recreational area for children and space, including gazebos, for the community to gather. It's like an oasis in the shadows of volcanic hills. Again, except for a few children at play, and a couple of grocery shops where the aluguers stop for passengers, all is quiet. We wait for transport back. Luckily we find shade in which to wait.. 

Face to face with seafood

Our next  alguer does not go directly to Mindelo. Since we have plenty of time to spare we are not perturbed. Our driver stops at the beach where the  fishermen's fresh catch has arrived. There's a lot of haggling and hand shaking. Boxes of seafood are being loaded onto our roof. A huge lobster and the gaping mouth of a huge fish stare me in the face. A few feet away a man holding a huge lobster in each hand is swinging his way on the sandy beach towards a lonely but huge 

A jaunt to the airport

From the beach that we had explored earlier we see an aircraft land and taxi towards a building. This of course is the airport aptly named after the famous singer: Cesária Évora Airport, the island's international airport. When our ride resumes we find that the road is only about 100 meters away from the airport. A very walkable distance indeed. We need not have worried about public transport at all, for surely there'll be some means of transport  to and from the airport. 

An evening stroll

Back at Mindelo there's still more time to explore and so we walk the esplanade. We take a peek into the church. The waterfront restaurants  are well lit and have a beautiful ambience but we do not see very many customers.  It's then time to get back to the ship for dinner and a well earned rest.

Praia, Cape Verde: unshackled from the past

A fishy welcome

Our cruise liner docks at Praia in Santiago, one of the islands of the Cape Verde archipelago. That it is the capital is evident from the sky line visible from the pier. The walk from the pier towards the city is lined with fishing boats and fishermen with huge catches in large basins waiting to hook a buyer. The terrain seems arid but is punctuated by patches of green including a sizable patch of sugarcane, an indication of the soil conditions –volcanic with limited arable land and the tropical weather.

Observation

As we walk towards a hub of activity we find that it is a sprawling covered market. The folk do definitely have Afrocentric features. Then there are groups of young men and women standing under the shady trees. Now, they seem to have some caucasian features. At that time it didn't seem unusual. Just another city with a mix of peoples.

Public transport anxiety

Vans are parked along the streets with some drivers calling out for passengers.Some cruisers had been talking about going further inland to Cidade Velha.  Why not follow suit? No taxis for us. Preferring to ride with the locals we check with one of the vans and get lucky. We board the collectivo, as the van is called. We are comforted by the fact that a Mexican couple, fellow cruisers, is also in the van. After about 10 mins we move, but stop within a few mins. Fortunately, we are under a tree safe from the scorching heat. Young well dressed people are milling about. Is there a college nearby? Should we panic? How long will the trip take? Will we have time to explore and will we be able to get similar transport back? We have seating space that should ideally fill up before we leave the city. Collectivo. What an appropriate name! We have since heard that you may find yourself waiting for an hour or more  for the van to fill up. I don't think we waited that long.

A vista

And then we are off passing through different neighbourhoods, cemeteries, blue churches with red roofs, and all the marks of a port city and a commercial centre. In no time at all we are on a wide laned smoothly paved highway whose curves climb around hills. Patches of green stick out of steep, rugged, rocky slopes. We are actually driving above the coast line that dramatically presents a birds eye view of the settlement below us. 

Somewhat comforted

After driving 14 km in 20 mins we park under a tree surrounded by a raised platform with benches on it. Passengers are waiting on the benches with all their wares for the journey back to Praia. Perhaps there is no need to worry about the return journey in a few hours.The driver earns a dollar from each of us for his services. 

Peeling off the layers

As we drove into the ‘town’ we passed by ruins. It seems too far away to walk there and negotiating the steep climb to it doesn't seem like a good idea on a hot day.

We are in a small unassuming hamlet with a museum-cum-craft store. Beside it is a grocery store. If there is a grocery store there must be a residential area.

Provocative findings

Sure enough we see a few streets ahead of us. The exploration begins in earnest. It is only a few hundred metres to the furthest edge of the area. We are in the old town. In fact, it is the oldest in Cape Verde. The Church of Our Lady of the Rosary built in the Gothic style is closed for renovations. Built in 1495, It has been marked as a UNESCO World Heritage.  It's the oldest colonial church in the world. Walking back towards the town square the modest, clean, cobbled streets packed side to side with limestone houses roofed with thatched, windows adorned with beautifully patterned curtains, exude an irresistible charm. Almost every dwelling is built on raised ground shored up with rocks. Banana trees abound in the little vegetable gardens. Mango, papaya and coconut trees are aplenty. There are goats too. Aptly, the street is called Rue des Bananas, the oldest street in the African region.

It's so rustic that we even meet a young girl doing her clothes-washing in an oval aluminium tub filled with sudsy water. A light skinned tourist felt so sorry for her that she handed her a five dollar note so she could save money to buy the household a washing machine. What are we promoting by this gesture?

Horror of horrors: anguish and justice

As we go about we notice the fort (passed by earlier)built on the escarpment looking down on the hamlet. We go back to the square to wait for a collectivo. And that is when we notice a white marble pillar set in the middle of a three tiered octagonal base. It has a thick iron loop attached to it. 

Built in 1950, this is the mast where slaves were tied for exhibition and sale. It is the Pillory monument. Standing there hanging on to the loop we can smile now and perceive the absurdity of it all. This is also the place where criminals and slaves were whipped. 

Puzzles partly solved: a legacy

The port lies in the central Atlantic Ocean 500 km from the westernmost point on the African Continent. Portuguese navigators found these islands. The first Portuguese settlers only arrived in the mid 15th century.  It explains the huge Catholic churches. One of the Cathedrals has only the walls and windows to remind the residents of their once harsh rulers. They chose the area because a river flowed from the escarpment above into the bay. 

But the island's climate and terrain were not conducive to agriculture. The turning point came because of the strategic location in the triangle trade. Slaves captured in Africa were sailed in unspeakable conditions to the island and sold off to plantations in the New World in return for their raw materials. Hence the port flourished as a centre for manufactured goods. This attracted pirates that necessitated Fort Philipe, built on the escarpment.

The opening of the Suez Canal marked the beginning of the fall of the port.

Cabo Verde only attained independence in 1975. It is said to have the best democracy among the African nations.

The country does grow food but most of it, especially cereals, are imported.

The language spoken is creole, a mix of European and indigenous languages.

The overwhelming majority of the population of Cabo Verde is of mixed European and African descent and is often referred to as mestiço.

The social and economic centre

We do have a long wait before a collectivo turns up. A few female students in school uniform join us along the way. They are excited to meet us but are shy. We are back in Praia with time to spare. The market is brimming with fruits and vegetables. Another section is equally colourful with mounds and mounds of clothes. Outside, the basket shop is bustling with buyers. Under the trees are basins filled with?! suckling pigs and baby goats for sale. The bigger goats are tethered to the trees.

This visit to Cabo Verde was a revelation of terrible truths and hope in a place we had never expected to visit. 

Ushuaia, Argentina: the End of the World

It is not the end of the world yet

We are in the waters around Chilean Patagonia, somewhere in the Straits of Magellan, on Christmas day. It starts gloomy and rainy. The glaciers and the waterfalls seem mystically far away. The area supposedly  teeming with marine life, which were Darwin's focus as he sailed down the straits, seems lifeless. Not an albatross, not a sea lion, not a seal, not a dolphin. Disappointing.  But suddenly a light house appears and then a rainbow. There is a subdued tone. Sea lions are sunning on rocks. Penguins parade along the shores. All is well. 

Arguably all about location and size

Ushuaia (pronounced oo-swy-ah) is the capital of the province of Tierra del Fuego, in Southern Argentina, with a population of 80,000. It's ‘near’ Cape Horn where the mighty Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans meet at the southern tip of South America.  It lies between Chile and Argentina, ensconced between the Andes mountains in the North and the Beagle Channel in the South. This is the closest settlement to the South Pole. It is the starting point for Antarctic cruises. 

Okay, not so fast. There is an island further down south but since its population is diminutive (only 3000) it is considered a village, and, therefore,  does not count! Hence, Ushuaia continues to be the world's southernmost town. And, they do give you a certificate with your name on it beautifully calligraphed.

A penal colony?: not quite

History has it that, in the late 19th century,the native Yamana population dwindled alarmingly due to epidemics. The Argentine government decided to boost the population. The least controversial way to do it would be to send political and high security prisoners from Buenos Aires and put them to hard labour within the prison walls and outside.  Thanks to them a railway track was built to transport timber (from the lush forests), rock and sand. By the beginning of the 20th century the prison had been expanded. The new town grew. 

Today it has luxury hotels and concrete apartment blocks. Happily the scene is not boring for the town also has wooden shacks precariously balanced on piers so that they can be easily moved when necessary. Interspersed are old buildings and picture perfect houses with manicured gardens. The styles vary from Swiss Chalet to stark modern. The pastel colours and wooden structures help preserve the fishing village feel. There is no doubt that tourism plays a huge role in its economy.

Stand outs

The streets are interesting to explore. The history  museum with figures beckoning through the windows is as attractive as the mural at the post office. The arcade sells local handicrafts

 Cold and colourful

Temperatures always range  between 1 and 10° because of the latitude. No surprise,for Antarctica is only 5000 km away. But nature and clever landscap8ng adds bold colours to an enchanting atmosphere. 

A picture of tranquility

At sundown the landscape takes on a subdued, sensual tone; everything feels seamlessly connected. We are ready to leave with a certificate. Others have postcards mailed from the southernmost address.

Mystical Cape Horn

Back On The Beagle Channel we sail around Cape Horn, the Tierra del Fuego archipelago, in the wake of Ferdinand Magellan's sea route that led to trade between Asia and The Americas before the opening of the Panama Canal. We are very lucky indeed to have calm seas for more often than not the meeting point of the Atlantic and the Pacific is turbulent and rambunctious making it a graveyard for ships in the days of yore. 

Ephesus, Turkey: to go or not to go

Tolerance Test at Kusadasi, Turkey.

A cruise port on our Mediterranean cruise happens to be Kusadesi. We have decided not to book a shore excursion to Ephesus, for as always a sizable portion of the time available would be taken up by the distance to travel to and fro. Besides, in our experience, the port of call would probably have more to be discovered and enjoyed at a leisurely pace. And so, we go down the gangway to be engulfed in a sea of cruisers from another liner. They are all young and enthusiastic, eagerly forming groups to hire private transport and thus share the cost. Quite quickly the groups evaporate. A small group is left still undecided. It looks as though it needs more to form a group. So Drink suggests we ask them if we could  join them. We believe we got a rude rebuff. For one thing they are all spritely caucasian Italians, from a celebrity cruise line, speaking animatedly in their own language. Here we are two older Asian adults who do not speak or understand a word of Italian. Perhaps we didn't even communicate. Even our facial expressions may not have registered.

Ego and enterprise seal a wonderful deal

Shouldn't the situation be pathetic? No way! Competition makes us more resolute. We should ask if anybody else would share a cab with us. And, as luck would have it, two couples toting professional cameras make their way down the gangway and into our entreating approach. That is a stroke of serendipity for they are well read, articulate and outgoing. Going to the museum afterwards in their erudite company is invigorating.

On our next trip to Ephesus we have our grandchildren with us. The men at the carpet shop are eager to talk to the young explorers. But it gets a little too cloying and so we find shelter at the tourist agent's office. We book with them, sit around for a while. The boys practically jump up to board the van as soon as our lady guide appears. They are more interested in the ride than inTurkish friendship, for now.

The Roman Capital of Asia Minor: an astounding synthesis of cultures

We drive through Selçuk district, towards Ephesus. We pass by a ruin and two distinct buildings. In the foreground is one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World: the Hellenistic Temple of Artemis (the many-breasted "Lady of Ephesus"). Only one column remains. Just behind it is the İsa Bey Mosque built during the Seljuk period ( Turco-persian-sunni Muslim).  In the background is the Seljuk Castle built during the Ottoman period. To think that we had seen it all in Istanbul/Constantinople, or even in Jerusalem, would be an overstatement. Add to this Classical, Hellenic, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and Christian. What a history, what a culture!

A Theatrical entry

As we enter Ephesus our attention turns to the lonely pear tree laden with fruit. A vestige or a stray? Our eyes are drawn towards the vast area of broken toppled stone pillars and slabs, then sweep upwards to the remains of the Odeon, an astonishingly large amphitheater, in fact, the largest in the Roman Empire. In its heyday it is said to have hosted 24,000 spectators. 

Right on the top, just behind the bleachers is the Fountain House that gave free access to water for the denizens of the city. Point to note: it was not controlled by aristocrats. An egalitarian society, indeed.

As the eyes turn back and downward, they settle on the broad, rutted, columned Harbour street. The road actually led to a harbour at the river mouth. Trade prospered. But the ravishes of natural phenomena silted the approaches so much that the port/commercial centre declined. It is easy to imagine how vibrant and prosperous the city would have been. 

A trove for the thirsty mind

An imposing two-storeyed facade towers ahead of us. It is the reconstructed Library of Celcius. Apparently, the facade was designed to make the building look imposingly enormous. When Ephesus flourished the building  housed 12,000 scrolls. The building faces East so that the reading rooms are flooded with the morning light. Notably, Celsius paid for it from his own pocket while his son built it. It is no wonder then that the sarcophagus of Celcius is buried beneath it.

It seems fitting that Ptolemy, the man who created the model of the universe with earth at its centre, was born and raised in Ephesus

Grand monuments: Symbols, mythological figures and heroes

As we walk,towards the terrace along the path that Antony and Cleopatra would have taken during their winter sojourns we get a sense of how well developed the city had been. 

A vestige of a pillar has the apothecary symbol carved on it. It is a chalice, the symbol of Hygieia, the goddess of health. This cup has a snake twining around it. The twining snake was the symbol of her father, Asclepius, god of medicine. She is partly credited with the Hippocratic Oath. In all probability the stump is a reminder of some kind of an infirmary at that spot.

Then there is the Memmius monument in Domitian square to commemorate a decorated soldier. The sculpted figures are realistically portrayed. Nearby is Nike, the goddess who personifies victory. And then at the Hadrian Temple is the Hercules (strong and courageous) Gate. Add to that the Gate of Augustus!

Evidence of a populous city buzzing with life.

The Trajan Fountain with beautiful sculptures tells of luxurious bath complexes. The row of toilet seats that had running water swishing through made it convenient for people sitting next to each other to share secrets, gossip, schemes etc. Little nooks,corners and tunnels speak of brothels and bars.

Stupendous in all respects: terrace houses

There appears a slope that seems like it is a cross-section of a hill. Brick arcs, pillars and walls are exposed. The excavation that exposed and tried to restore the rest of the city is still going on here. Now the terraced house complex is slowly and meticulously being Uncovered and restored bit by bit, shard, by shard. The grand mosaics are being fitted like a jigsaw puzzle. The frescoes are being painstakingly Uncovered and restored. Gladiators, floral motifs and Roman gods adorn the walls. The houses are multi-leveled and include even  fireplaces. The grandeur, the opulence and the amenities reflect how the wealthy lived.

A work in progress

After the city was abandoned (in the 15th century), people moving to higher ground on the surrounding hills, the marble sculptures had been ground to powder to make lime for plaster. The ruins of the temples became building blocks for new abodes. Some of the artifacts either in the original form, restored or recreated helped complete the experience of having traveled back in time.

Observing the work being done by the archaeologists we can't help but admire their patience, dedication and mental acuity to want to revive a glorious past that can evoke a country's sense of pride.

A Catholic pilgrimage

Many of our fellow cruisers also made a pilgrimage stop. A few miles from Selçuk is  TheHouse of the Virgin Mary. It is said that this was her last home before her assumption into heaven.

All keyed up for the highway that goes to the sea: Florida Keys

Trust our luck: when GPS fails

We drive from Fort Lauderdale, Florida, to Key West through the everglades, the largest tropical wilderness in the US, the waterways of which whir with activity. Airboats glide through groves of mangrove for eager safari goers to spot alligators, turtles and such in their natural habitat. We are supposed to turn left at a particular point towards Key West. We did but the road took us nowhere. Perhaps the GPS in our rented car needed time to reorient in this wilderness. We tried again.  Still no luck. So we decided to continue further and explore the next turn. It worked. A good sense of direction and distance estimates are highly valuable in moments like this.

We have arrived in Key Largo

The Spanish version translates to long (Largo) little island (key). It is 48 km long and 3.2 km wide. This is the biggest of the 1700 islands that make up the Florida  Keys. When we came here a few years before, driving all the way from Fort Lauderdale, a storm was impending. It was very close to sunset as we arrived at the information centre. We were warned to stay put since driving any further would be hazardous. We were not prepared to be tossed and turned and blinded by any natural hazard and so decided to stay the night on this island. The centre is able to arrange for our stay in a nearby hotel. The storm is predicted to be a few hours away. 

Testing the waters

Since we have a little time, and there is still some daylight, we decide to drive towards Key West for about an hour and then return to safety. This drive brings home the fact that we are taking a huge risk. The bridge that connects to the next island seems to part the sea. Before we know it we have crossed the island on to another bridge and another island. These islands are so small they are barely visible from the bridge. The raised walls of the bridges and the median are painted a light blue and so until our eyes are acquainted with them we seem to be literally on a narrow isthmus , the seas frighteningly close on either side. Most of the roads are single lane and are not lit at night. A hair raising experience.

The storm blew over during the night. The next day dawned with a sparkle. But we had to return to Fort Lauderdale for our flights.

A coral necklace

A few years later we start from Naples, Florida, therefore arriving at Key Largo before noon.  The weather is excellent. We are back on the Overseas Highway route which connects the string of keys that form an arc from the tip of Florida. The statistics are stupefying. The Highway with 42 bridges connecting 44 islands is 180 km long in total. Every now and then a sign board appears to indicate a beach or a water activity. We exit at one that  almost immediately puts us onto a rather small beach with turquoise blue waters. That is all there is to this tiny island! It's as though these islands are coral beads strung into a necklace by the bridges.

Every which way

Driving from Key Largo to Key West we are on the Bay side (driving on the right) and so we are driving along Florida Bay and the Gulf of Mexico, curving to the left. When we drive back we are on the Ocean side, i.e. along the Atlantic Ocean.

Since there are so many curves in this stretch, addresses on the connected islands cannot have the typical compass point descriptors, but MM which stands for milestone marker.  Addresses descend on the right as we drive toward the tip. Hence, Key West is an MM0. We start at MM 105

‘Slicing’ through open waters 

The longest bridge is the Seven Mile Bridge. Yes, you guessed it, over seven miles of water. Imagine driving on it on a cold, blustery, windy day under a sky laden with heavy clouds. The warning at Key Largo on our previous trip was serious indeed. The bridge connects vibrant Marathon, one of the bigger islands in the middle Keys to Duck Key, which has a posh residential area.

A Marathon indeed

Parallel to this bridge is another that stands out like a skeleton. Marathon got its name from the workers toiling nonstop to build the bridge,  the original oversea railroad, a part of which has been turned into a popular pedestrian bridge.

We arrive at Key West, park the car, and then, of course, walk the streets of the island of coral rock and limestone with an area slightly bigger that 3×6 km.

Where great minds came to write and relax

The huge building, the Southernmost Hotel stands out. Then comes the spacious Spanish colonial house where Hemmingway used to live and which continues to be the residence of his 6-toed cat's descendants. Other great writers like Tennessee Williams  and Robert Frost have also called the island their home. Add to that list President Harry Truman who spent summers here in his Little White House.

The Spanish-Cuban connection: historic charm

The architecture around us is charming. Homes and businesses have colourful facades, front porches and shutters. Called  cigar cottages or shotgun homes they have an interesting history. Typically they are each a long and narrow rectangle with a porch, with decorative wood work, and a gabled roof. The picturesque diminutive dwellings arr often only about 4 metres wide with rooms one behind the other making them cheaper and faster to build. Perhaps they are called shotgun homes because if someone fires a shotgun from the porch the bullet would pass straight through to the back of the house!

Why the haste and the compactness?  

Cuba is closer to Key West than Miami is. Naturally Key West had Cuban immigrants, one of whom established a cigar factory on the island to escape Cuban tariffs. This led to a major cigar industry attracting more Cuban immigrants to work in the industry. They needed to be housed in a small area as quickly as possible

A lesson in Spanish

We have passed over Islamorada. To the uninitiated, like I was at first, it's read Islam-orada. But it is actually Isla( Spanish for island) Morada.

A museum for wrecks?

The Atlantic Gulf Stream  was crucial to navigation between Europe and the New World. Galleons laden with treasure for European monarchs plied the route. But often they struck the reefs. The salvage industry boomed until legislation had to be put into place to discourage looting.

Navigating through Key West: take your pick.

There are just too many cars. The streets are bustling with people. It's safer to park the car for a fee and then explore on foot. The best way to soak in the atmosphere. Scooter, bikes, mopeds, pedi-cabs,electric cars and trolley cars are available for a fee. They all add to the vibrancy of the town.

Packing a punch

The heart of Key West is bustling with culture and nightlife. It's filled with restaurants, bars, galleries, and shops selling unique gifts, clothes, and, of course,  hand-rolled cigars. Music fills the air as you walk past.

The pleasant and the unpleasant.

While the islands are sought-after for their idyllic climate and crystal clear beaches, fishing, diving, snorkelling, etc. hurricane warnings are to be taken seriously. Evacuation can become difficult. Since there is only one road connecting the islands to the mainland traffic can come to a standstill. People could be stranded without services and communications. That is why this unique Highway is aptly referred to as the umbilical cord.

Not to forget, key lime pie is ubiquitous to the island. Made of key limes which are more tart than lemons, it is typically topped with meringue. Do not be surprised if it is commonly eaten for breakfast. No surprise that pineapples and sapodillas are also grown here.

The "Highway that Goes to Sea”  is a vibrant mix of history, culture, picturesque communities, and plenty of water related activities with different islands specialising in some areas..

Yet despite their small size, these islands support lively, communities.

Abundance of character: Dublin, Ireland

Different country, different currency

It's hard to believe that we are no longer in the UK but we are definitely in Britain. (United kingdom= England+Wales+Scotland+Northern Ireland 

Britain= UK +  Ireland)

The Euro, not the Sterling Pound, is the currency here.

The double decker buses are not red, but yellow and blue.

To me Dublin is special because of its literary greats, its history and its cultural vibe.  

It being a UNESCO city of Literature I have liberally used quotes from the greatest of Dublin writers whose works I'm acquainted with.

Habit is a great deadener.
Waiting for Godot by Samuel Beckett

As usual, we do not have a plan. Right after we check into a hostel we start exploring, wanting to make best use of the evening before it gets too dark . 

Blessed is he who expects nothing, for he shall never be disappointed. Jonathan Swift  of Gulliver's travels

How inspiring that the very first thing that catches the eye is the bronze statue of James Joyce!

For myself, I always write about Dublin, because if I can get to the heart of Dublin I can get to the heart of all the cities of the world. In the particular is contained the universal.  James Joyce on Dubliners

What a promising start!

Sure enough the very next thing that kindles us is the pedestrians, especially because they are clutching tote bags of various sizes and material with the Guinness logo on them. Of course,Guiness beer is made here.The Guinness Storehouse is Dublin's, and by dint,  Ireland's, topmost tourist attraction. Strangely, right before us stands a tall modern building with the iconic Heineken sign on it. It turns out that this is the  O’Connell Bridge House which has exhibited various brands over the years, such as Sony, Coca-Cola, and even Guinness. That's something to chew on.

There are no strangers here. Only friends you haven't met. W B Yeats

And then we find ourselves walking on a cobbled street that is filled with boutiques, funky shops, eclectic cafes, nightclubs and bars. We are on the streets of Temple Bar. It is beginning to explode with music ready for hordes of tourists. Great minds need to relax, too.

The passing of time

Within minutes we are on the famed Ha'penny Bridge with a handful of the quotidian love locks. The filigree bridge once charged a half-penny for crossing! And then we catch sight of a unique building in the corner made by two streets. It's the Pen Corner, an iconic store that sells everything you need for writing, especially fountain pens and paper. The store has since closed and those of us who do not use traditional writing implements understand why. 

After all this is writers’ land: symbolism and lore

A gleaming gold tree stands  out at a bank. A sign of the country's high economic rating!

Then there is the statue of Molly Malone. Who was she? In Irish folklore,she was a tart with a cart. She sold tarts in the day; at night she sold herself. Such was the life of working class women now immortalized not only in the statue but also in a popular song called Cockles and Mussels.

I don’t have ugly ducklings turning into swans in my stories. Maeve Binchy

But a black pool has turned into a field. That takes us to the origin of the name Dublin. It is made up of two words: Dubh and Linn which respectively mean black and pool. The pool was at the confluence of the two rivers, Liffey and Poddle. Poddle fed the moat surrounding the castle we are on it. It has since been filled and is Dubh Linn Gardens. 

As is true of many old buildings the castle has played many roles over the years.

It is getting dark and a few drops warn us of a wet evening. But there is still some natural light to give us a glimpse of the Dublin Spire.  If we linger a little longer we would  see it lit up and therefore be awestruck by its 121 meters in all its glory.

We pass by the ornate pillars at O'Connell bridge, the oldest bridge( built at the end of the 18th century) across the river, now widened to accommodate more traffic. And then into our hostel.

The huge poster that we pass with the male figure tripping over a suitcase, though meant as an advertisement for something else, neatly sums up our occasional dilemma with suitcases.

Early the next morning we set off towards the castle because Trinity College, Dublin's oldest and most illustrious college is adjacent to it. 

Along the way are ancient streets that have preserved history with sections of the old wall, etc. There is so much to explore.

Always forgive your enemies; nothing annoys them so much. Oscar Wilde

Apparently, the river Liffy divides Dublin into North and South and, yes, with some deep rooted rivalry. 

The Universal Link On Human Rights sculpture along the banks with an eternal gaslight flame has a powerful message: we are prisoners of conscience.

As we cross the river we get beautiful pictures of the custom house reflected in the water.

Also, in the distance there appears a futuristic bridge with a span like that of a harp( the national symbol) on its edge. It's the Samuel Beckett Bridge. Closer to us is the replica of the Jeanie Johnston, one of the famine ships that sailed millions of immigrants escaping the potato famine,  to the New world. The replica is within sight of the monument. 

Once a King in Narnia, always a King in Narnia The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe by C.S. Lewis

Treasured moments 

We have arrived at Trinity College. To step into the campus, with its notable bell tower, on the hallowed grounds tread by notable alumni, including Bam Stoker of Dracula, is almost like a pilgrimage.

Adding to the awe is the knowledge that the  Book of Kells, a thousand year old book, with exquisite and intricate illustrations by Celtic monks, is on display in the Old Library. Not surprisingly, the queue waiting in line to purchase tickets is impossibly long.  I'm quite satisfied being in the vicinity. But other areas of the University are free to saunter into and therefore the ambience registers. At one portal, the Nobel Laureate George Bernard Shaw,  an aristocrat with a loveless childhood who became a champion of worthy causes,  stands loftily reflecting on the passers by!

Pose with a dandy: The Importance of Being Earnest 

A little further away is a rectangular park. At the nearest corner is a large crowd either posing for or taking photographs. Who is that figure sitting so dandily on the rock! I tentatively make my way through the crowd and self consciously pose for a shot. This dramatic figure is none other  than  Oscar Wilde, the writer of the above book, known for his satire and how he challenged gender roles.  The  historic street lamps and various other sculptures do not seem to get as much attention. And to think that I had earlier passed by his childhood home . The statue of Oscar Wilde is striking. It depicts the man of letters in a dandy pose resting on a boulder. 

Swinging [bridge] across from the lighthearted to the heavy hearted

We cross the Liffey over the Sean O’Casey  bridge which is a pedestrian swing bridge. It rotates 90°. Now we are on a cobblestoned boardwalk. A haunting scene confronts us. Emaciated figures of man, woman, child and a dog, carrying bundles of their meager possessions in the process of escaping  the potato famine. A grim reminder of a harrowing journey.  A game changing catastrophe.

Moving on.

Across the river we now see the new Docklands replete with sleek skyscrapers in modern architectural style. A preschool stands out for its colorful jigsaw puzzle mural.

Dublin has so much in such a walkable space. It has such variety and colour. It is a beautiful symbiosis of the old and new, the past and the present. 

Note:

One of the reasons for why I write:

We do not write in order to be understood; we write in order to understand. Cecil Day-Lewis

Charming location and hospitality: Rosslare, Ireland

 Rosslare,  Ireland: what did we really expect?    

Surprise 1: bus[y]ness

We are in Rosslare mainly because it is on route to Dublin. The three hour ferry ride from Pembroke Dock, Wales, drops us at  Europort. We find the port very busy as it has ferries plying to Spain and France as well!  As soon as we get our bearings we discover that the railway station is literally only a few minutes walk from the dock. 

Surprise 2: Views

Our stay is at a building just across the railway line but on a hill.  It being late in the evening we think, we should try a shortcut instead of following the windy road which meant walking a lot further from the starting point. We negotiate a slope and a rickety wooden staircase to reach the road on which our accommodation sits. In the balmy twilight we have great views of Europort. Further away is the strand!

Surprise 3: climate and flora

There are actually tropical plants and trees! We could have been anywhere in the Mediterranean! No surprise that Rosslare has been a tourist spot for more than a century! 

Surprise 4: dazzling modern Victorian 

As we enter our host greets us with such a huge heart warming smile. We are dazed. When the daze wears off a little we have reason to be even more charmed. There are two lounges with dainty rose print wallpaper and comfiest of sofas and  Victorian lampshades. A dining room conjures up promises of a comforting highly proper breakfast served on elegant crockery with appropriate cutlery

Our rooms? By far the best

A highly polished set of stairs leads us to a large bedroom with similar rose patterned wall paper and linen. The bathrooms are clean and very modern. The WiFi is incredibly fast.

Surprise 5 : We are in a popular holiday destination

It has a lot to do with history and geography

We are actually in a building that was once a courthouse. What an incredible makeover the owners have made.

The Irish Ros Lair means ‘the middle peninsula’: not middling but a go between! 

The weather has lent to its epithet: the sunniest spot in Ireland. 

It has a long beach.

In the early 20th century the harbour was beginning to silt and therefore would reduce traditional movement of goods and people which is why the Rosslare Harbour also became Rosslare Europort with the added railway. 5 trains a day run to Dublin.

No wonder then that it remains an easily accessible vacation spot.

Is it all a dream?

As we are to take the train to Dublin soon after breakfast our host has arranged an early breakfast for us. It is what I had expected. A full Irish breakfast is presented to us with such cordiality and elegance that makes me want to pinch myself to wake up from a dream!

Is the proof really in the pudding?

We are served two unique puddings in slab form – one pale  and the other a Reddish black. Now the revelation. They are not the familiar sweet dairy based desserts. They are concocted from meat scraps, offal, and blood so butchers need not throw these items out! They are called puddings because they are boiled or steamed inside a cloth.  The ‘white’ does not contain blood. The ‘black’ does. Do they generally make them at home? No, they come in sausage form from the deli. They are sliced into discs for serving.

When it is time to leave, our host for the day offers to drive us to the station. We should have hugged her.

We are quite reluctant to leave on our 3 hour train ride to Dublin, but we must go on.

Trundling across 2 countries in the United Kingdom

 From one country to the next

England and Wales are 2 of the 4 countries that comprise the UK

Our plan is to take the train from Paddington Station in London,England, to Pembroke Dock in Wales, eventually crossing the Irish Sea to Ireland. Tickets have to be bought in advance. You may buy tickets at the station but not for the train scheduled at that time. Also they are generally cheaper if bought ahead. We had standard class tickets for a high speed train with just a few stops along the 327 km route that would take 6 hours to traverse.

The sleek train is punctual. Paddington station is colourful and very busy.. The station personnel are cheerful. We easily find our coach and settle into the clean, cosy seats. The train leaves the station passing by the gloomy suburbs, leaving behind the red buses and the crowds.

Towns and hamlets: highly diverse

In cool comfort we are treated to the idyllic countryside. Once in a while a distant baronial castle tower or a church spire pokes up in the distance. Closer to the tracks are the row houses with their chimneys lined up in military precision.  A quaint village pops up now and then.

The stations

Gorgeous! Each rural railway station is unique and beautiful. As we slow down towards them we get a not so hazy view of the agricultural activities. The sheep, the cattle and the horses all contentedly grazing on the verdant leas and meadows  under a blue sky.

 

When did we cross the border?

How do we know we've crossed the border into Wales? 

No large noticeable board. Only that signs are in both English and Welsh. The largest railway station, a modern take, is the one at Cardiff. No surprise as it is the capital of Wales and the 7th largest city in the UK.

Waterways: no bores

We may have crossed various creeks but most interestingly, after Cardiff, we are chugging along a coast which seems to have shoals. We are going along  the estuary of the Severn River, Britain's longest river that eventually becomes the Bristol Channel. A couple is taking a walk with their child in a perambulator. A few are gathering cockles, I presume. I now know that we were then passing the Welsh Coastal Path.

Apparently the river mouth gives rise to tidal bores during high tide. This causes waves of different heights and force on different parts of the river depending on the width and curve. River surfing enthusiasts attempt to surf along on the wave

Pembroke Dock

We arrive at our destination in the evening and find our way to our B and B. It is a quiet part of the town. A quick walk around the town takes us to the main street which is also tranquil. A mediaeval tower seen on a hill had been the centre of a settlement,known as Paterchurch, on farmland. The tower served as a lookout over the centuries. 

Pembroke dock Heritage 

Our morning began with a typical Welsh heritage breakfast which included sausage and bacon. I was thankful for the cheerios and the coffee. A walk through the residential area takes us to a patch of blackberries. Needless to say we plucked a handful to savour their freshest  juice.The Heritage museum tells of the history of Pembroke Dock. 

We learn that during WW2, Pembroke Dock became the world’s largest flying boat station and home base to airmen from many countries 

Crossing the border again

That evening we board a bus that takes us into a ferry that will sail us across the Irish Sea, crossing the border into Ireland. While on the ferry we were free to sit in the lounges. When we reboard the bus just as we are to Dock in Rosslare, Ireland, an immigration officer boards the bus to check our passports. 

Take away:

Experienced a comfortable, admirably scenic journey in the oldest railway system in the world.

Recall:

I did have an issue with the London trains when my train from Gatwick to the city was delayed by 3 hours. All we knew was something went wrong with the electrical system. No one knew when , or if at all, services would resume. I was to go up to Kew Gardens. When the trains really did resume I made my way to the Kew station, but the sun was already setting and by the time  I reached the garden it would be dark. 

In World War II Pembroke Dock became the world’s largest flying boat station and home base to airmen from many countries