Tolerance Test at Kusadasi, Turkey.
A cruise port on our Mediterranean cruise happens to be Kusadesi. We have decided not to book a shore excursion to Ephesus, for as always a sizable portion of the time available would be taken up by the distance to travel to and fro. Besides, in our experience, the port of call would probably have more to be discovered and enjoyed at a leisurely pace. And so, we go down the gangway to be engulfed in a sea of cruisers from another liner. They are all young and enthusiastic, eagerly forming groups to hire private transport and thus share the cost. Quite quickly the groups evaporate. A small group is left still undecided. It looks as though it needs more to form a group. So Drink suggests we ask them if we could join them. We believe we got a rude rebuff. For one thing they are all spritely caucasian Italians, from a celebrity cruise line, speaking animatedly in their own language. Here we are two older Asian adults who do not speak or understand a word of Italian. Perhaps we didn't even communicate. Even our facial expressions may not have registered.
Ego and enterprise seal a wonderful deal
Shouldn't the situation be pathetic? No way! Competition makes us more resolute. We should ask if anybody else would share a cab with us. And, as luck would have it, two couples toting professional cameras make their way down the gangway and into our entreating approach. That is a stroke of serendipity for they are well read, articulate and outgoing. Going to the museum afterwards in their erudite company is invigorating.
On our next trip to Ephesus we have our grandchildren with us. The men at the carpet shop are eager to talk to the young explorers. But it gets a little too cloying and so we find shelter at the tourist agent's office. We book with them, sit around for a while. The boys practically jump up to board the van as soon as our lady guide appears. They are more interested in the ride than inTurkish friendship, for now.
The Roman Capital of Asia Minor: an astounding synthesis of cultures
We drive through Selçuk district, towards Ephesus. We pass by a ruin and two distinct buildings. In the foreground is one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World: the Hellenistic Temple of Artemis (the many-breasted "Lady of Ephesus"). Only one column remains. Just behind it is the İsa Bey Mosque built during the Seljuk period ( Turco-persian-sunni Muslim). In the background is the Seljuk Castle built during the Ottoman period. To think that we had seen it all in Istanbul/Constantinople, or even in Jerusalem, would be an overstatement. Add to this Classical, Hellenic, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and Christian. What a history, what a culture!
A Theatrical entry
As we enter Ephesus our attention turns to the lonely pear tree laden with fruit. A vestige or a stray? Our eyes are drawn towards the vast area of broken toppled stone pillars and slabs, then sweep upwards to the remains of the Odeon, an astonishingly large amphitheater, in fact, the largest in the Roman Empire. In its heyday it is said to have hosted 24,000 spectators.
Right on the top, just behind the bleachers is the Fountain House that gave free access to water for the denizens of the city. Point to note: it was not controlled by aristocrats. An egalitarian society, indeed.
As the eyes turn back and downward, they settle on the broad, rutted, columned Harbour street. The road actually led to a harbour at the river mouth. Trade prospered. But the ravishes of natural phenomena silted the approaches so much that the port/commercial centre declined. It is easy to imagine how vibrant and prosperous the city would have been.
A trove for the thirsty mind
An imposing two-storeyed facade towers ahead of us. It is the reconstructed Library of Celcius. Apparently, the facade was designed to make the building look imposingly enormous. When Ephesus flourished the building housed 12,000 scrolls. The building faces East so that the reading rooms are flooded with the morning light. Notably, Celsius paid for it from his own pocket while his son built it. It is no wonder then that the sarcophagus of Celcius is buried beneath it.
It seems fitting that Ptolemy, the man who created the model of the universe with earth at its centre, was born and raised in Ephesus
Grand monuments: Symbols, mythological figures and heroes
As we walk,towards the terrace along the path that Antony and Cleopatra would have taken during their winter sojourns we get a sense of how well developed the city had been.
A vestige of a pillar has the apothecary symbol carved on it. It is a chalice, the symbol of Hygieia, the goddess of health. This cup has a snake twining around it. The twining snake was the symbol of her father, Asclepius, god of medicine. She is partly credited with the Hippocratic Oath. In all probability the stump is a reminder of some kind of an infirmary at that spot.
Then there is the Memmius monument in Domitian square to commemorate a decorated soldier. The sculpted figures are realistically portrayed. Nearby is Nike, the goddess who personifies victory. And then at the Hadrian Temple is the Hercules (strong and courageous) Gate. Add to that the Gate of Augustus!
Evidence of a populous city buzzing with life.
The Trajan Fountain with beautiful sculptures tells of luxurious bath complexes. The row of toilet seats that had running water swishing through made it convenient for people sitting next to each other to share secrets, gossip, schemes etc. Little nooks,corners and tunnels speak of brothels and bars.
Stupendous in all respects: terrace houses
There appears a slope that seems like it is a cross-section of a hill. Brick arcs, pillars and walls are exposed. The excavation that exposed and tried to restore the rest of the city is still going on here. Now the terraced house complex is slowly and meticulously being Uncovered and restored bit by bit, shard, by shard. The grand mosaics are being fitted like a jigsaw puzzle. The frescoes are being painstakingly Uncovered and restored. Gladiators, floral motifs and Roman gods adorn the walls. The houses are multi-leveled and include even fireplaces. The grandeur, the opulence and the amenities reflect how the wealthy lived.
A work in progress
After the city was abandoned (in the 15th century), people moving to higher ground on the surrounding hills, the marble sculptures had been ground to powder to make lime for plaster. The ruins of the temples became building blocks for new abodes. Some of the artifacts either in the original form, restored or recreated helped complete the experience of having traveled back in time.
Observing the work being done by the archaeologists we can't help but admire their patience, dedication and mental acuity to want to revive a glorious past that can evoke a country's sense of pride.
A Catholic pilgrimage
Many of our fellow cruisers also made a pilgrimage stop. A few miles from Selçuk is TheHouse of the Virgin Mary. It is said that this was her last home before her assumption into heaven.
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