Ushuaia, Argentina: the End of the World

It is not the end of the world yet

We are in the waters around Chilean Patagonia, somewhere in the Straits of Magellan, on Christmas day. It starts gloomy and rainy. The glaciers and the waterfalls seem mystically far away. The area supposedly  teeming with marine life, which were Darwin's focus as he sailed down the straits, seems lifeless. Not an albatross, not a sea lion, not a seal, not a dolphin. Disappointing.  But suddenly a light house appears and then a rainbow. There is a subdued tone. Sea lions are sunning on rocks. Penguins parade along the shores. All is well. 

Arguably all about location and size

Ushuaia (pronounced oo-swy-ah) is the capital of the province of Tierra del Fuego, in Southern Argentina, with a population of 80,000. It's ‘near’ Cape Horn where the mighty Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans meet at the southern tip of South America.  It lies between Chile and Argentina, ensconced between the Andes mountains in the North and the Beagle Channel in the South. This is the closest settlement to the South Pole. It is the starting point for Antarctic cruises. 

Okay, not so fast. There is an island further down south but since its population is diminutive (only 3000) it is considered a village, and, therefore,  does not count! Hence, Ushuaia continues to be the world's southernmost town. And, they do give you a certificate with your name on it beautifully calligraphed.

A penal colony?: not quite

History has it that, in the late 19th century,the native Yamana population dwindled alarmingly due to epidemics. The Argentine government decided to boost the population. The least controversial way to do it would be to send political and high security prisoners from Buenos Aires and put them to hard labour within the prison walls and outside.  Thanks to them a railway track was built to transport timber (from the lush forests), rock and sand. By the beginning of the 20th century the prison had been expanded. The new town grew. 

Today it has luxury hotels and concrete apartment blocks. Happily the scene is not boring for the town also has wooden shacks precariously balanced on piers so that they can be easily moved when necessary. Interspersed are old buildings and picture perfect houses with manicured gardens. The styles vary from Swiss Chalet to stark modern. The pastel colours and wooden structures help preserve the fishing village feel. There is no doubt that tourism plays a huge role in its economy.

Stand outs

The streets are interesting to explore. The history  museum with figures beckoning through the windows is as attractive as the mural at the post office. The arcade sells local handicrafts

 Cold and colourful

Temperatures always range  between 1 and 10° because of the latitude. No surprise,for Antarctica is only 5000 km away. But nature and clever landscap8ng adds bold colours to an enchanting atmosphere. 

A picture of tranquility

At sundown the landscape takes on a subdued, sensual tone; everything feels seamlessly connected. We are ready to leave with a certificate. Others have postcards mailed from the southernmost address.

Mystical Cape Horn

Back On The Beagle Channel we sail around Cape Horn, the Tierra del Fuego archipelago, in the wake of Ferdinand Magellan's sea route that led to trade between Asia and The Americas before the opening of the Panama Canal. We are very lucky indeed to have calm seas for more often than not the meeting point of the Atlantic and the Pacific is turbulent and rambunctious making it a graveyard for ships in the days of yore.