From Keelung to the historical and contemporary city centre
We sail into Keelung Harbour in the early hours of the day. It is raining
We have been warned that taking the train from Keelung to Taipei involves one transfer which could turn out to be complicated and so we opt to try the bus. The Marine centre where our liner has docked is not too far from the intercity bus station. Finding the correct bus and getting the tickets Is child's play. We are pleasantly surprised that only one other couple from our ship is on board. The rest must already have booked tours or shore excursions. As we cross the Keelung river we get a beautiful view of Taipei’s skyline softly veiled by the mist. Once in the central bus station we get a day pass and then board a train to the historic and contemporary part of the city, the Longshan Temple Station.
History Bopiliao area: charmingly old and new
Just as we exit the station onto the closest street a huge board greets us.
The road signs are clear and informative. More importantly, they are also in English. In a few meters we will be in the Bopiliao historic lane. The blocks, are made up almost completely of one or two story brick buildings, many more than 200 years old, is, consequently, one of the earliest commercial districts in northern Taiwan. The street houses have been repurposed into museums, shops, cafes, and art exhibitions. The friendly staff beckon us towards an art exhibition. We climb ancient stairs and walk through historic wooden doors. We even have a glimpse of the earliest printing blocks. All in all it's an unforgettable, rich and immersive experience into the blend of the old and new. Tribute to victory and remembrance of tragedy
Only a short walk away is Liberty Square. The pleasant tree lined avenue, one of many in the city, leads into it through a fabulous arch made up of five arches. Greeting us is a marble building with a brilliant peacock-blue tiled roof.
It's the Chiang Kai-shek memorial hall. A controversy surrounds it because it commemorates an authoritarian ruler. As we are contemplating examining the lower levels for the various rotating art and historic exhibits our attention is drawn to the fact that the crowd has grown and it is drifting towards the edges of the hall. Perfect timing in every way. It is the hourly changing of the guards. The clicking and stomping in unison with the swinging of arms and raising of knees and several other precision military moves certainly awed the audience.
From the memorial we see the two Chinese-temple style buildings with red pillars, and red-tiled roofs with upturned eaves.
They are the National theater and the concert hall at the entrance. It is no wonder the vast and impressive expansive landscaped spaces of the square are said to be perpetually hosting some kind of immersive activity.
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Engineering marvel: dizzying but sturdy
From the enormous museum beneath the statue does not disappoint. The comfort we found in the fully air-conditioned building came to and end when we find ourselves in the concourse of a multi-level level shopping centre whose maze dizzies us out into the wet puddled streets whose broad streets are lined with government buildings
A slight tilt of the head is enough to get our bearings. We are right next to Taipei 101, just outside the World Trade centre metro station. Named For its 101 stories it is statistically an engineering marvel and the first building of its kind in the world. The architectural features combine traditional Chinese, Asian and modern. It is designed to withstand typhoons and earthquakes which are common in Taiwan.
From one marvel to the next
It doesn't take long to reach Longshan temple with its unmistakable incense smoke and smell. The smoke does not deter worshippers and believers from participating in traditional rituals like lighting joss sticks and sticking them in the sand filled urns,or seeking fortune tellers. The altars, the chapels, the gongs, the shrines all displaying exquisite artwork in vibrant colours and intricate carvings, lacy designs along the eaves, the huge cast iron sculptured pillars, the red wooden pillars painted with Chinese emblems and their wooden joinery were all overwhelming.There's more: carp pools, fountains, and little courtyard gardens. It is obvious that Longshan temple is cherished by the Taiwanese for it has been restored several times after being ravaged by war and natural phenomena.
Photo opportunity
We are walking along the entrance to city hall flanked by the traditional lines. It affords a photo opportunity. The Rain has left a sheen in the form of a thin layer of water that looks more like a skating rink, right on yet another spacious avenue, reflecting the important government buildings around it.
Surprise surge: double 10
Just as we approach Sun Yat Sen memorial we see tents, moving multitudes, flags, etc. We try to weave our way to the main entrance to the hall which contains a statue of Sun Yat-sen. Every hour, there is a formal changing of the guards, which is a popular tourist attraction. So, are the people waiting for it? No one speaks our language. A few days later we find out that it was a double 10 day( 10th October) which happens to be Taiwan's National Day. Thus the celebrations.
We decide to explore the gardens and the exhibition centre and then weave our way back to the road that would take us to the famous red brick building.
Japanese Buddhist temple
A small Japanese type entrance gate calls for exploration..three serene guided Buddhas face the rows of long tables covered in gold coloured satiny material. Had we more time we would have perused the religious exhibits in the upper levels. In the near distance is the stadium still under construction.
‘Pedestrian’ but intriguingly chaotic
Xi men ding can be thought of as the counterpart of New York's Times square. Besides it is the oldest district in Taipei which means the oldest buildings and temples are found here. Yes it is quite close to the Biloxiao historic area.
And this is where the octagonal red house, taking its name from the red brick walls, is. it is actually made up of an octagonal building and a cruciform building. Adapting to changing needs, a cultural transformation has made it a trendy bustling market.
The surrounding area is so busy with traffic and filled with high end boutiques and cafes that it's hard to believe that chaos sits right next to the quite landscaped governmental district.
As we amble about a row of red lanterns hung above a narrow entrance sparks curiosity. It is the serene Tianhou temple tucked between modern buildings.. Had we more time we would have explored it further
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A sight to watch
We have seen quite a bit of Taipei city in spite of the intermittent rain. But we have to make our way back to Keelung. We simply cannot afford to miss our boat. So there comes out our day passes again at the central station. At the turnpike there's a sight to behold. Visually handicapped masseuses in orange jackets are eliciting oohs and aahs (never mind the sceptics) from their clients.
The rainy city that didn't dampen spirits
On the journey back we pass by two other landmarks, the post office and the North Gate to the city. The third building, we're guessing , is the railway museum. It is still raining in Keelung. After all, this city is well known for ,at least 200 days a year.
The marks of colonisation and concord
The Keelung River offered access to northern Taiwan for various colonisers, which explains why Taipei's indigenous culture has blended with those of China, Japan and southeast Asia.
We sure would have loved to visit the 11 storied presidential office building known for its red and white facade resembling Japanese character..
