Not to be brushed off: Brasov, Romania

Incredulous history:Saxons in Transylvania

I've always associated Saxons with Britain partly because I'm familiar with the term Anglo-Saxons. But Saxons in Romania?Just as the Ottoman rulers of old in the Balkans have left an indelible mark in the culture of the region, so have the Saxons in what was Transylvania. Who are these Saxons? They were all from the German speaking regions, and therefore a Germanic tribe. Why were they in Transylvania? Well, the sparsely populated Transylvania of the 12th century was part of Hungary. The then king invited these people to populate the area and consequentially defend it from marauders. The first group to arrive settled in Sibiu (to be covered in my next post ) in the southern parts of Transylvania. 

In the 13th century the Hungarian ruler granted the Brasov area to the Germanic tribe. They in turn attempted to establish their own state. The area needed defence not internal strife and so the wise king granted them many privileges so that they would remain loyal to Hungary. They were exempt from taxes and duties. In return they made a yearly payment for the lands they received as well as provide soldiers for the king.

In other words, the Germanic tribe was an immigrant community invited for the defence of Transylvania and to contribute to its economic development.

They were expert craftsmen and tradesmen. They formed guilds. They contributed greatly to the growth of Brasov as a city. They helped to maintain the walls and bastions. The seven citadels (one of which is mentioned in my previous post) in the area stand testament to their valuable contribution to the 6th largest city in Romania.

Ominous start

We walk down the main street under a sky laden with clouds. Our introduction to Brasov begins with the boutiques, cafes and souvenir shops, housed in and between historic buildings including a church, probably Orthodox, built during the Soviet era, that line the pedestrian Strada Republici. The side is artistically paved.It is certainly a picturesque  town with  varied architecture styles and colourful facades. We simply pass by insinuatingly squeezed alleys reminding me of Venice. What stories would we have uncovered? The narrowest street in Europe is somewhere here.

The long street leads us right into Piața Sfatului (Marketplatz, in German), the heart of the old town. A marquee and chairs arranged in a circle tell us that some event is on. There is some music and movement of people but we are clueless as to what exactly is going on. Our local guide is droning on about the history of Brasov intent on taking us to the Black Church. Perhaps he did say something about how the central square is always bustling with people, and that numerous events take place here.

The phenomenon 

The first building that rises before us is the very Viennese looking administrative building of the University of Transylvania.  And then we feel the drizzle picking up. Hurriedly we unfurl our umbrellas, and seek shelter in a narrow space in the buildings fringing the square. The rain pierces the umbrellas held at angles to form a wall. It is not rain but ice crystals in the form of long needles! Of course, they almost  immediately form puddles at our feet. That phenomenon turns out to be a great setting for what we are about to learn. A few 100 years ago the square was used for public executions, punishments and public humiliation (for crimes including witchcraft), just as in Piazza San Marco in Venice, Italy. 

Trodding on  the entombed 

But that's not all. When the rain lets up we walk along the gravel around the church, skipping puddles. Why was it not paved? Hold your breath! A complex of 1,400 graves lie under our feet!  Also underneath us are archaeological remains of a civilisation. 

The Council House in the centre of the square, now a Museum of History, has displays of artefacts from the various historical eras in the area.

Biserica Neagra: Black Church 

This majestic Lutheran church, originally Roman Catholic, was built in the 14th century by the Bulgarians over a period of 100 years. (Sagrada Familia( Barcelona, Spain) was started 144 years ago and is still not complete.) This blackened church reminds me of Kholn, Germany.  The Kholn cathedral was constructed of sandstone before the industrial revolution. Over the years natural aging, pollution and damage during World War II contributed to the darkening of the facade.

The same can be said of the Black Church, but with a difference. Instead of war it was ravaged by a big fire at the end of the 17th century.

More impressive details.

Had we entered the church we would have seen a collection of oriental carpets, and that reminds me of Hagia Sofia (Istanbul, Turkey) with a history of the Byzantine church, mosque and museum. 

More impressive is the Baroque organ, built in the 19th century, with 4,000 pipes – the biggest working organ in the country.

It is also known for its six-ton bronze bell.

There's a lot more to explore, especially the various towers spread across the city each one specialising in storing a particular commodity of a guild.

The merchant houses in market square have dormer windows in their tiled roofs that look like eyes peering out.from the square We have a good view of Tampa mountain the lush greenery of which forms a contrasting  the  white letters spelling out the name of the city, reminiscent of Hollywood. 

Amusing amenity

Our short visit almost at an end we wait at the local bus station just beside a park with inviting red benches. We are in for some amusement. A bus rolls by towing a bike rack. Three cyclists mount their bicycles in a series and strap them to the metal frames. 

A Twist

Had we continued past the Black Church we would have entered the Schei district through a gate. The Bulgarians began settling in the area beginning the 14th century. They were not allowed to settle in the Saxon fortified city. Not only were they allowed entry I to the citadel through a gate only at specific times to sell their goods but also to pay tolls for vending within the walls. As mentioned above they worked on the Black Church. After three centuries they became assimilated and all the former restrictions were 

Stake on Bran Castle, Romania

A foretaste of creepiness 

Our route from Bucharest to Brasau takes us through Transylvania. The Carpathian mountains surround us. The landscape is rustic with rippling rivers, herds of sheep and idyllic villages. Perhaps because of association with the name ‘Transylvania’ ,made famous through Bram Stoker's Dracula  I begin to notice stone buildings and architectural details that seem creepy and haunting.

Intrigue: Bran Castle or Dracula's  Castle?

Yes, we arrive at Bran Castle, marketed as Dracula's castle. Bram Stoker had never been to Romania. He only envisioned the castle. However it does have an uncannily similar setting and features.

The first feature that strikes us is the sheer height in proportion to the base area. It is built at the entrance to a gorge, a natural moat, and therefore the sheer impenetrable stone wall. 

The turrets with steep, sloping roofs and slit windows are intimidating. An equally steep staircase with narrow steps jam-packed with tourists awaits us. It takes us about 20 mins on the steps to reach the stiles at the entrance. With the multitude of people the atmosphere could have been celebratory rather than creepy, but surprisingly it remains chilly thanks to claustrophobic features: doors,passages, stairs(a secret passage) that lead from the first floor to the third, dizzying tight spiral staircases that accommodate only one person at a time, dark nooks just before the doors into the rooms all speak of intrigue.

Highlighting through contrast

The muted grey, and brown colours add a sense of decay and foreboding.As though to enhance the eeriness some color is presented through  blue ceramic tiled stoves, a blue kettle, a bench near the hearth, etc. 

The covered wooden verandas give us a view of the courtyard that seems like a deep well. In fact, it does have a well, or two. Initially meant to provide the needs of the household it was found to be inadequate. It has now been turned into an elevator shaft that takes paid customers into a multimedia museum.

However, there's a wishing well.

From fortress to castle

Built in 1377, this stone fortress was built by the Saxons, of German origin, to guard the mountain pass and defend Transylvania from the Ottoman Empire. It was also used as a customs checkpoint. The real Dracula, 

Vlad Draculea III, never stayed here  but he did pass from Bran gorge at least once to set the outskirts of Brasov aflame  and impale some traders for not paying their taxes but that was it.

Transylvania joined Romania after world war 2. In 1920 the castle was given to Romania’s Queen Marie in memory of the war heroes and it underwent some reconstruction to make it suitable for a noble  family to live in. It became a summer retreat for the royal family. Bran was lived in by the royal family even after Queen Marie's death. Her daughter Princess Ileana lived in it until the communist regime forced her into exile.

Today the fully furnished and renovated castle is a museum.

Feature: a small square of the brick and stone wall is exposed to show how the tall walls were fortified  : wooden boards embedded in the brickwork helped to protect them against distortions , cracking, or risks such as earthquakes.

Then it was time to take in the whole scene from the landscaped gardens at the bottom of the hill. I thought this tree with a hanging artificial swatch of red leaves was particularly metaphoric.  Beyond the pond were umpteen bright yellow bean bags with people sitting in various poses, admiring the castle from its bottom up. Had we stayed longer we would have seen the landmark lit against the twilight.

   

More reminders of a bloody history

As we leave Brasnove we get a good view of Râșnov Citadel, a medieval fortress, considered one of the best-preserved rural citadels in Transylvania and Romania,  high above the hills. Its position afforded a high-altitude viewing post and an early warning system against invading armies. 

 

Peles Castle, Sinaia, Romania

Natural landscape vs progress

We've crossed the Danube from Ruse, Bulgaria into Romania's Transylvania! The land of Dracula!  Traditional houses with shingled roofs, towerlike at the entrance, atop timber walls raised on a stone foundation pass by.

Driving down winding roads along lush greenery, it is easy to understand that 33% of Romania is forest and there's logging. Notably, the country is an important European source for forest products like sawn wood, wood-based panels and furniture, most  of it passing through the Black Sea. It should not be surprising then that there have been issues with illegal logging. 

Sensory introduction to ‘romancing’ Romania

We arrive at the foot of the mountains to an  entrance that  easily distracts with the colourful souvenir stalls and the traditionally dressed women toting large baskets filled with colourful little woven baskets filled with juicy bright red strawberries and the most flawless, freshest cherries I've ever seen. 3 baskets for 10€ seems a steal for parched tongues.

Adding to the celebratory tastes and colours was a wedding group dressed in its traditional finery.

And of course Medieval Castles.

And there appears before us a stunning edifice, Peles Castle, so called because Peles creek flows through its courtyard. Most in our company have bought tickets. They will see the lush furnishings and the lavish decorations on the inside while we admire the outside. The summer retreat, built in 1883, with both Gothic tall vertical elements and thin walls as well as Renaissance decorative classical elements, is inarguably distinctive. A sense of awesomeness is evoked through the kinds of material, viz wood , marble and glass, that are imaginatively incorporated into the architecture.

Interestingly, it was the first European castle to have its own power plant for electricity. Consequently it had hot and cold running water, central heating, telegraph, telephone, a small elevator for the royal family and a central vacuum system. Our friends tell us the stained glass roof of the foyer opens mechanically.

We notice the alpine-like features from the outside while exploring the various landscaped terraces. The marble statues in one of the terraces draw our attention more than any other. Then there is the typical lion guards of the Balkans. The urns seem to  complete the requirements of palace gardens.  Some parts are supported with scaffolding and fountains are under repair. 

The castle is undoubtedly enchanting, but the crumbling parts evoke a sense of the eerie, perhaps because of Bram Stoker.

Yes, we get lost. 

The castle is surrounded by forest with well marked trails. Since we enjoy trails we launched on one with our friends. When we sense it is about time to rejoin our travelling group we hastily look for the way back when we chance upon umpteen souvenir shops with such attractive displays that we get side tracked. We smugly believe we are back at the row of vendors we had seen at the entrance. But we are wrong and it does not take long to realise it. A frantic walk hither and thither till we get our bearings and there we are, the abominable late comers ( but just by a minute, saving our reputation for punctuality).

.

Rousse/Ruse, Bulgaria: no ruse here

Having not done a group tour with a travel agent, I did not give much thought to cities, except for a few of which I was already familiar with, that were on the itinerary. The briefing long before the travel date was mostly about the weather, our hotel stays, whether the credit card was accepted and some advice on keeping safe. It was all delivered business-like. Obviously the speaker wasn't the tour leader; he was simply delivering a set speech. (Our tour leader, on the other hand, turned out to be energetic, enthusiastic and responsible.) Even if I had done some reading, I would have thought that, after all, a tour can only accommodate so much and priorities lie elsewhere. 

Starting on a clean slate

Being in a city without any preconceived notions promises to be more adventurous and revelatory. So here we are in Ruse, Bulgaria. We do not have a local guide. It's lunch time. Our tour leader walks us to the main square. All around us are buildings that resemble those in Vienna. The park is well shaded, lined and dotted with trimmed colourful flower beds of various heights. Giant artificial blooms resembling the poppy shoot up from planter boxes. 

Look where you're going

Engrossed in wonder and simply following the others before me I trip and fall. Didn't see that one coming – a crack on the tiles! Immediately several hands reach out to me. A quick rise, an equally quick dust off, and off we go. Will check for bruises later!

Appreciate first, find out later

Our leader points out to the open-air restaurants and cafes to which almost everybody in the group goes for a taste of the local cuisine. But,as usual, we have sandwiches and so walk about the perimeter of the square before finding a cool spot to picnic.

Is that the Statue of Liberty?

A sculpture of a woman holding a laurel wreath ( not a torch as in NYC) dominates the park. This is  the Monument of Freedom/ Liberty symbolising the victory and honour of the Bulgarian people who staunchly stood against marauders and fought for independence through bloody wars typical of the Balkan nations. 

Profit yielding building, no kidding!

Indeed it is! That is exactly where the touristy eateries are lined up along. It is a huge long building housing the only toilet (paid) in the vicinity. Certainly with all those patrons ordering food and drinks it is a requirement. The building itself takes up a whole street. Within had been a theatre. The elaborate neo-baroque architectural monument was designed by a Viennese. 

Why the weird name?  Its initial purpose was to be a venue for artists and entrepreneurs. The revenue collected was passed on to the schools. The original plan also included shops and a casino. Now the building is one Bulgaria's architecturally historical monuments 

Clock tower

The building across the street has a working clock beneath a dome. It is more than a 100 years old. Amazingly, the clock's ancient wheels relentlessly keep accurate time. The building over which the clock sits used to be Girdap, the very first private bank in Bulgaria. The long pedestrian Alexandrovska Street it stands on is teeming with locals. If only they could converse in English!

Opera house

Across the Freedom Park stands a gloriously elegant red building fronted by fountains. The Opera House that was within the Profit yielding building now has a building of its own. There is no time to experience the opulence within. We are left to imagine the opera and philharmonic performances in its grand hall.

Through the copse of lush green trees just next to the red walls we get glimpses of St. Trinity Orthodox Church

Shouldn't there be a mosque near by

Apparently,  had we crossed the Intersection at Alexandrovska Street we would have sighted Mirza Said Paşa Cami 

Square after square

We have some time left and decide to walk along some of the streets that lead away from Freedom Square to what still looks Viennese. Sure enough each of the buildings is architecturally beautiful, the facades intricate and multifarious. 

We arrive at a small quiet square, with a fountain and benches. The statue of Alexander Battenberg, modern Bulgaria's first Prince stands at the centre. The square is named after him. Along it is the Regional  history museum which was meant to be a palace for Alexander Battenberg.

A celebrated school

As we sit there enjoying the shade there is a lot of activity at the building across from us. Through the doors uniformed school children pour out in batches. It looks as though the school caters to all levels of basic education for there were playful children, teens, and adolescents. They are the students of the reputed Hristov Botev School. It was  the first large-scale 19th century male gymnasium to introduce modern educational methods.

Conveniently close library

We decide to walk across on the other side. The door to the building is open and we find that it is a library. The wall along the stairs leading up to the 2nd level displays a collection of colorful artwork, likely created by young artists. They are varied in style and subject matter, including depictions of animals, landscapes, and human figures.

I would have loved to meet the librarians and explore the upper floors but we are a little lost and it's almost time to rejoin our group. 

As we leave we come across a lone blue statue of a young violin player standing in  the square as though he was playing a sad melody to bid us farewell; a parting shot at us to rue that we had not really experienced Ruse to the fullest.

The sentiment is valid

Had I known that we were very close to the Banks of the Danube we would have spent less time sitting around and seen more of what the city had to offer along the Danube that connects to other cities that we have visited  before, viz. Vienna (Austria), Bratislava (Slovakia), and Budapest(Hungary).

Unbeknownst:Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria

The name sounds Indian, but then streets in Helsinki sound like that too. Or, for that matter, place names in Eastern Europe as well. I hadn't even thought of this city. The excitement of discovery and vague familiarity makes me more agog than ever.

Diverse, geography, and culture of the Balkans carries on

As we leave rose valley we drive past more neat rose fields 

A brown horse stands in a grassy field. The tranquil rural setting is suddenly more forested. As we take a sharp bend I spy shiny domes rising through dense trees. A fairy tale castle as in The Sleeping Beauty? It's none other than the Shipka Memorial Church, also known as the Memorial Temple of the Birth of Christ. So we are now on the historic Shipka Pass. The church, built between 1885 and 1902,  commemorates the Russian and Bulgarian soldiers who died during the Russo-Turkish War (1877-1878), particularly those who fell during the Battle of Shipka Pass. 

We resume the journey at a rest stop called Complex Balkan. There are more women than men in our group and so we always end up making a long line for the meagre number of stalls.we hardly have time to enjoy the scenery around us or even for a quick snack.

Staggered by the slant

When we pass an old building with the word Post on it we know we have arrived. Within a few minutes we are unloading at our hotel. This 15 floor hotel is one of a kind for. Some of us are assigned rooms from the 4th to the seventh, and others at -4, -6, etc. When we meet at the reception before taking a tour of the old town everybody is excitedly chattering about the negative levels, with those whose rooms have a view over the valley bring the object of envy.  The levels are tiered along a slope. We left the rose-filled amphitheatre of Rose Valley for another building that has its rooms staggered down to the Yantra River that loops just below us. The word Yantra also has an Indian feel for it means ‘machine/machine’ or a ‘religious‘ symbol which seems more apt in the context.

Will it be a let down?

We have an elderly guide who seems tired out even before she starts. She warns us that daylight is diminishing and so the tour will be a short one. We are prepared to give her the benefit of the doubt. We march out onto Samovodska Charshia Square. This is the historic part of Veliko-Tarnovo.

The first thing we see is  a large mural depicting medieval  knights on the side of a building. It probably represents the brothers  who founded the Second Bulgarian Empire in 1185 after leading an uprising against the Byzantines. Also, during the communist era, murals became a popular way to decorate buildings in Bulgaria. We have living proof of these artistic expressions as we pass by picturesque traditional buildings flanking cobble-stoned streets. Since we are half way up a hill there are several look outs onto the valley. We look over steep staircases with landings at each level onto which streets open out to the sides, with hidden courtyards, artisan workshops and attractive cafes.

Coexistence of cultures and religions 

Next we weave through streets that lead to important looking buildings of the historical and spiritual capital of Bulgaria.

The building with a curved wall is the  Administrative Court which handles administrative cases and disputes. 

The next building is as terraced as our hotel for it has four floors on the valley side and two on the square where we are. It is the old police office of the Ottoman Empire.The building is a cruciform and has an arched entrance. This is where the first session of the Constituent Assembly was held. It has now been converted into the Museum of Revival and Constituent Assembly. It's closed for renovation which doesn't bother us very much since it's already quite late in the day. Besides we've had our fill of Roman ruins and artefacts in Sofia. But this museum is certainly different since it showcases the development of Christian art during the Ottoman rule. Now that's something for modern day religious fanatics to chew on.  

Balconies painted bright,filled with potted flowers, some flying flags, a hotel with Bulgarian architecture and then a row of buildings that are characterized by  traditional Bulgarian National Revival period architecture follow. 

And then the showpiece

Our guide is showing signs of boredom as she leads us on to a broad tiled avenue with three huge pottery jars at theFortress gate. We are now at Tsarevets Fortress, overlooking the town. The buildings within the walls include the Royal and  patriarchal palaces. The central part is occupied by the Royal Palace Complex with the Throne Room,  Palace Church, and Royal Chambers.  The Patriarchal Cathedral is at the top of the hill. 18 churches and numerous houses were once in the vicinity as well.The lady at the ticket booths is a good friend of our guide. She allows us to enter the gates just to take pictures before we leave. 

The fortress is definitely very impressive; almost everything is well preserved. It is surrounded on three sides by the river Yantra, a natural moat! Only 3 sides and therefore not really a closed fortress. The fortress that served as the medieval stronghold  of the Second Bulgarian Empire has been around since the 12th century.

Interestingly Veliko Tarnovo is also called the “City of Tsars” since the fortress was the seat of the tsars.

Digging for details

Back at the hotel we enjoy the panoramic view of the river Yantra surrounded by  the terracotta roofs on houses tucked into the lush green hillsides. At the loop of the river way below our window is an interesting building that looks like a church. It has a large statue at the entrance. We look hard to find a way to get to the loop for we see traffic nearby. After dusk we walk into the streets in the direction of the monument. We pass by a market, which is now closed, a small monument and then a park which we think should lead us to the atypical building. It doesn't get us anywhere. So we simply take in the bustling night life before we return to our room

More research tells me that the lush green park with the monument is Park Sveta. The statue is a Monument to the Asen Dynasty, built in 1985, it features the then rulers, perched on their horses with their 33m swords. 

The building facing it is the State Art Museum. 

Just a little bit more

In the morning,  as we leave Veliko Tarnovo, we drive by the monument that we simply passed by the previous night. For an uncanny reason? It is the Monument to the Hanged on the historical site where the Ottoman built  a gallows to execute Bulgarian rebels.

Then the Floral Clock  inspired by the famous floral clock in Geneva, Switzerland  passes by.

The last notable building that flits by is the Town Hall

Rose valley, Bulgaria: Pervasive Fragrance

Clearly defined Balkan

Leaving Sofia quite early in the morning we drive about 3 hours to our next destination.  The term "Balkans" truly registers since our scenic route is along the Balkan mountain range that stretches through the whole of Bulgaria.  Against that backdrop are villages and clusters of houses nestled in a valley with green fields all around. A church stands out, its white bell tower piercing the clear blue sky. A railway line and brick houses fenced in with tile topped stone walls reflect how the  modern and traditional coexist. 

A historic pass

Later research tells me that we have driven through the Shipka Pass, a mountain pass in the Balkan Mountains. It being on a vital trade route Turkish troops made repeated attempts to recapture the vital pass. The five-day fight for the 4,500-foot-high pass became the turning point of the Russo-Turkish War. The church we passed by is in the village of Shipka.

Perceptible signs

That the area is ideal for flowering plants is clear as all around us are rose and sunflower fields. Just as in any rural area in Eastern Europe cattle graze contentedly on fresh fodder. Villages, whose red-tiled roofs contrast with the green surroundings and blue skies, are flanked by humble cemeteries.  Behind these modest structures are high rise buildings still modest enough to retain the tranquility of a natural setting. As we approach our destination, fields of roses, identified by the few that are on the acres of bushes, appear on both sides. Is that a bridge we see in the distance?   

 A complex that explains

Within a few moments we arrive at the “bridge”. We are in Rose Valley, famous for its roses which have been cultivated there for centuries. It produces 6 tons of rose oil – half of the world's total production. The sunshine and mild temperatures that we have experienced and enjoyed so far are ideal for rose cultivation.

The complex we are at is called Damascena Ethnographic Complex. It's a private family distillery and ethnographic museum dedicated to the art of rose oil production. Our guide for the day speaks good English. 

Tenderly does it

As we are being introduced to the very first equipment a van arrives. The driver slides open the door and therein are huge plastic bags of pink rose blossoms, carefully cut one by one from the bushes. The gathering process is  traditionally and understandably a woman's task, since it requires a gentle touch,dexterity and patience.  The driver deftly lifts the sacks and quickly but gently lays them close to the distillation area beside a stream. (You might want to find out how many tons of roses would be needed to produce one ton of the precious oil.) A good source of water is necessary for gently washing the petals. The stream that flows along the processing plant serves a practical purpose in being part of a vital process.

The distillation itself  is the simple process of  ‘water-distillation’. The flowers are soaked in water and are distilled in containers. Our guide points out to a vintage copper still once used in the distillation process.

We have been lucky. It's off season as proven by the scarcity of flowers we saw in the fields but the processing plant also has suppliers who own fields of the Damask rose, the rose that is best for oil production.

We get to take pictures with a statue of Queen Berenice. The statue is part of the grand art within the complex, whose aim is to preserve and showcase history. Parked by the side are two antique trabants

Attractions:

The complex features a park and gardens. One of the swans coyly entices us with her various poses.  Several stone and wood handcrafted sculptures blend in with the surroundings. 

An immersive experience

A pergola leads us to a traditional house made up of several sections displaying historical agricultural artifacts and tools

The Bridge Close up

We are then directed towards what looked like a bridge from afar. Surprise, surprise! We are standing on the rim of a concrete basket. It is an amphitheatre. The ‘bridge’ is the handle of the basket filled with tiers of at least 150 varieties of roses. It's stunning. 

We then move into the cooler building with marble floors,stairs and pillars, with frescoes on the walls and ceilings depicting historical events. Our noses lead us to the shop that enticingly displays all its rose oil products. The cashiers in their traditional costumes charm us. A 1gm ampule of rose oil (liquid gold)costs about €12. Most of the women from our group come away with armloads of these products. 

Our fellow travellers lunch on traditional Bulgarian cuisine at the adjoining restaurant and then we have a good view of the pebble-stoned river and the lush green trees and mountains afar that form a prelude to the next city, Ruse.

Yellow Brick Road: Sofia, Bulgaria

From Skopje towards Sofia.

Our drive takes us through verdant valleys and mountains. Crossing the border (we are crossing over from a non-shenzhen country into an EU country) is not as tedious as we thought it would be. The drive offers great views of the brilliant blue Lake Kalamantsi, an artificial lake created by a dam.

At a wayside restaurant we alight for lunch after which the group that opted for the UNESCO World Heritage Rila Monastery high up in the hills takes off. We have about 2 hours to kill. The restaurant looks over a small river that runs over a weir. It seems like a crude construction of a dam. We seek access to the river but find none. On the opposite side of the road is a flight of wood and stone stairs that looks as though it would lead to some old historic building. Maybe a monastery?There is no one save a dilapidated building. A hulking man appears from nowhere with a large can which he fills under a tap a few metres from us. We ask if the water is safe to drink. With gestures and guttural sounds he says it's  not. That being the only conversation possible we follow a well trodden path hoping it would lead to some copse or vista. Alas, it leads us back to the road. There's shade at the unassuming hotel beside the restaurant which is where we park ourselves. A lone man sits in the lounge with nary a word or a gesture of acknowledgement. As he walks out and drives away a small group of tourists arrive. There is a commotion in using the free washrooms and then, just like that, they disappear.

Worth the risk

We are getting restless and so we walk further up the road hoping to find access to the river. A dirt road leads us to it but on the way a gate warns us not to trespass. A few officers are slumped at the tiny little building. They look withered by the heat. We ask if we can go close to the river. A vehement ‘no’ arises. With hopes dashed we walk back to the restaurant where we use the washrooms and that's when we spot the stairs leading down to the waters edge. There's no holding us back. The officers had emphatically said it was out of bounds and there we are temptingly close. Yet, too far. The weir is well protected with barbed wire! 

First impressions of Sofia

Driving through the rolling hills patch quilted with various crops, we enter the outskirts of Sofia, where we are met with stark buildings, trams and a shopping mall. All trappings of the proverbial modern day city that reflect a humdrum life. Would the capital city be boring? 

Impressions do go wrong

And then we pass by buildings with an assortment of architecture. Ah! The unmistakable 2000 year history of the Balkans– Greek,  Roman,  Ottoman  and Soviet occupation –is reflected.

If only we had more time

Our local tour guide decides on a walking route that would take us to the major landmarks and attractions. The area is  designed to look like Vienna, especially the yellow brick road, thanks to the Austrian-Hungarian Emperor who questioned the durability of the original roads (I imagine they were muddy) when he visited Sofia. The ubiquitous yellow bricks were a gift from him.

Historical importance versus landmark.

As expected we are led to St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It's iconic alright with its gold coated domes. A relatively new building  built to honour Russian soldiers who died in the Russian-Turkish  war of the 1800s,the stunning building is quite a contrast to the stark tenements of the Soviet era. Oddly the church actually remained open during the Communist regime in Bulgaria.

But more important, historically, is the 4th century St Nedelya Church at the end of the main historic street. It’s the oldest church in Sofia. 

Nearby is the 10th century Eastern Orthodox St Sophia Church with its prominent central dome. It has undergone several reconstructions, the most significant of which was after it was bombed in 1952. Obviously this is where Sofia gets its name. The name of a woman? Uh, uh. Interestingly, Sofia is revered as the female version of Christ. 

Repurposed

We trot along the streets with our guide pointing out the various buildings, the significance and purport of each all drowned in his droning voice. We have cursory glances of the Bulgarian Academy of Sciences, the art Gallery, the Bulgarian Parliament, etc. Some research afterwards puts things in better perspective.

Sofia has an abundance of mineral springs which gave rise to the Central Mineral Baths. What served as a public bathhouse is now a history museum. A fountain in front is mostly occupied by pigeons. I hear the area has unsavoury characters. Perhaps that's why we just pass by.

Central Sofia Market Hall, also known as Tsentralni Hal, is identified by the relief of the coat of arms of Sofia above the main entrance. Originally a covered market for various goods, it was renovated and reopened in 2001. The three storied building is now full of shops selling items like clothing, groceries, jewelry, and fast food besides restaurants. 

Fountains and gardens and a near miss

Close to the aforementioned churches is the city gardens. On this hot day we are all tempted to find reprieve in its green open cool spaces, and the impressive fountains. The iconic fountain in the square in front of the presidential office is also inviting. 

But wait, did we miss the National Theatre of Bulgaria  with its unique red walls, tall white columns and gold embellishments?

Did we also miss the synagogue?

A persistent gnawing  

A cluster of shiny, colourful onion domes have been in our peripheral vision for quite a while. Being shrouded in greenery it is mysterious and captivating thus creating gnawing questions that desperately need to be addressed. This is yet another Russian Church, officially known as the Church of St Nicholas the Miracle-Maker. Reason: it includes the crypt of an Archbishop widely considered a miracle- worker. The building itself is a unique artistic piece within and without, plastered with multicoloured tiles,  all topped with 5 sparkling gold coated domes.

Easily identified

The National Archaeological Museum looks archaic enough since many  artifacts lie around the building.This museum is housed in the former Koca Mahmut Paşa Camii, an Ottoman mosque built in the 15th century.

A revealing peek: Celts in Bulgaria

Our eyes are drawn to the stiff guards in ceremonial uniform. Undoubtedly it is the Presidency Building with a modern structure embellished by stone accents. But our attention is quickly drawn towards a rotunda which appears in one of the arched walkways that leads into a square. You'd never guess that this is considered one of the oldest buildings in Sofia.Built in the 4th century as Roman baths it was converted into an Early Christian church within the ancient city of Serdica ( explanation in the next section)

We are told the church is famous for its frescoes inside the central dome, dating from the 10th to the 14th century. Would you believe it? It was founded by local Celts

Fleeting memories

Drowsily we pass by notable buildings like The National Art Gallery located in the historic Royal Palace building. The architectural styles and the supposedly impressive collection  of arts are all lost to us.

All that I remember of  the National Assembly Building  (a landmark building) is that it serves as the meeting place for the Bulgarian Parliament. It was once used as the Communist Party House.

Accidental digging into layers of history

At a metro station we are led  down into a spectacular subterranean world. We are in an ancient amphitheater which is an open museum. It has been so carefully excavated and the artifacts so well preserved that it feels like we are back in time, in the 4th century to be exact. We are in the ancient city of Sardika during Roman times. Did I just hear the gladiator battles and the fighting animals?

The amphitheater was found by accident in 2004 during the construction of the  Serdica Hotel. More  sections were discovered in 2005 and  2006 while excavating the foundation of a nearby office building.

Overshadowed but singularly quaint

We climb back into the city on the other side to find ourselves parked in a little square with souvenir shops. Our group suddenly becomes more energetic. We browse a couple of shops enough to get a strong feel for the local artistry and cultural icons and then find a place to rest our legs and backs till the shoppers are done. Our guide bids farewell.

Looking up I see the statue of St Sophia towering up behind the metro station. I'm sitting atop the wall of a raised garden behind a stone building. Curious, I walk to the other side and also discover an underground entrance. A plaque in a strange language tells me nothing until some later research tells me that I'm at the Church of St Petka of the Saddlers. It's a one-naved underground church dedicated to the patron of tanners and saddlers. Well hidden between modern structures, this medieval Orthodox temple of significant historic value,one of the oldest of its kind in Sofia,  could easily be missed. 

Serenaded into more than a hearty meal

Tonight's dinner is at Hadjidraganovite. The decor is old-style Bulgarian rustic. The ceiling is adorned with wagon wheel chandeliers, hanging lamps and various traditional or antique items, including what appears to be dried peppers and other hanging decorations. The lighting is muted by the decor. Initially subdued by the ambience we perk up as soon as the walking band serenades us.

The food is traditional Bulgarian, plentiful and very agreeably grilled. The freshly baked warm bread just daintily pulls off in delicate aromatic chunks so delectable that we are addicted to it. We do have ravenous appetites but the gargantuan portions overwhelm. Who can eat a mountain of salad and meat? More than half our servings go to waste.  

Morning round up

It's always fulfilling to walk the streets of a historic city, or any city for that matter, to observe daily life devoid of tourists. It's only a short walk to the city from our hotel. We retrace the steps of the previous day. Except for the few commuters we have the city to ourselves.

We get a closer look at Banya Bashi mosque, the only functioning mosque in town. Its red brick minaret and walls, large dome and typical lattice work with Islamic motifs speak much of Ottoman architecture. In fact, this particular mosque is often referred to as Mini Haigh Sofia, referring to the landmark in Istanbul. The name "Banya Bashi" means "many baths", and it is built on natural mineral springs.

We pause by the glass railings that give us a view of the archaeological excavations. It seems as though we are in Rome.

The relatively new statue of St Sophia watches over the city centre. 

On our way back to the hotel we make sure to take a picture at Lions Bridge (Lavov Most). Our fellow travellers have been talking about it being featured in a Bollywood movie. It's a short arched bridge over the Vladaya River.  The name is derived from the symbolic bronze lions(4 of them) that are prominently featured. The bridge connects the city centre with the railway and bus stations.

Only in . . . 

Where else would you find ruins every time you dig?

Where else in the Balkans would you find layers of history that include the Celtic? Among the Greeks, Roman, Slavic warriors, Ottoman pashas and Cold War communists?

Where else would you find churches, mosques and synagogues all within a few steps of each other ?

Dramatic chronology: Skopje, Macedonia

Facts of life.

As we travel from Ohrid to Skopje we get a taste of the verdant countryside  with picture perfect villages. We come across different graveyards,as is usual, just outside the towns and villages or beside churches.  

Notably,the gravestones with Moslem names show the crescent and star symbol. Other graveyards also have very simple rectangular  tombstones. 

We arrive at a town for lunch and are surprised to see double decker buses plying the routes. DrInk and I walk into a large store to get something to eat and also to spend our leftover Macedonian Dinars for they would be of no use to us when we leave the country the next day. We find only chocolates and Turkish delights that are unique to the Balkans.

A double whammy

Our next stop is Matya Canyon. Once our bus is parked we walk along quite a ways towards a gate. But there is still a long distance to go. Those who have opted to go on a boat ride, that would take them on the crystal clear water flanked by rugged cliffs to a short hiking trail into a cave from where they would hike back, are advised to use the toilets before boarding. It is no piece of cake. A slope leads up to restaurants, and various stalls. At the end of a long laborious walk, after a steep climb over the stone stairs are the public washrooms. Our group is appalled that it costs 1 euro each. Not many of them have the required cash for it. Toilets are free at the restaurants only if you eat there. 

The main overlook

We huff and puff towards the dam after which is the water ride platform.  Ticket booths are busily selling tickets for a lot  of activities like hiking and boat trips here. The restaurants lining the path along the canyon are rustic, mostly built of stone and wood, adorned with rose bushes. What steals our attention most is an open air antique store. The gelato vendors are doing a roaring business. These and the souvenir shops only accept local currency. The restaurant accepts credit cards.

A precarious venture

The path continues further into the higher parts of the canyon. A few people are loping up the path hugging the side of the  cliffs. It looks easy and therefore tempting. So I decide to give it a go and ambitiously think it might lead me to the cave. The path is rough rock except for a few steps. Apart from being uneven the path is narrow at times as well slanting down towards the waters way down below. The hand rails look a little wobbly. So I simply hold on to them tentatively and also hang on to the cliff wall. To my surprise a sturdy rope  anchored to the cliff at intervals helps boost my confidence. Manipulating the sharp bends and abrupt, heartstopping  steeper slopes does sap my energy, so much so that I content myself with great views of the canyon from different heights and angles from where I am. All thoughts of reaching the cave (which is actually not accessible from where I am) are abandoned. The teal waters of the river, rugged cliffs punched with caves, and peaceful surroundings (not many people hiking) are quietly dramatic.

From tumultuous history to religious diversity

As we leave Matka Canyon for Skopje most of our fellow travellers fall asleep from exhaustion. At Skopje we are dropped at the old down in the shadow of a fortress. As always, our local guide has been advised to keep us in the shade as much as possible. 

We are standing beside a plateau on which sits Mustafa Pasha Mosque, an Ottoman-era mosque, characterised by its opulent architecture and a serene courtyard. We get a glimpse only of the domes above a wall from where we are.  It is reminiscent of the Hagia Sophia of Istanbul. It is certainly as tranquil as is touted to be. 

A few metres away is an ancient old oaken door. The guide tells us the door opens into a churchyard that holds the sarcophagus of a revolutionary. 

This is the Church of the Ascension of Jesus of  Eastern Orthodox heritage, adding yet another historical dimension to the city.

More revelations

We are then led to the well preserved bazaar, the second largest in the world after Istanbul’s dating back to the 12th century. Walking along the stone paved alleys we are shown a traditional hamam(now a museum) , Turkish baths, several mosques and a caravanserai which has been converted into a restaurant with Byzantine touches. There's a synagogue too.The bazaar is famous for its traditional craftsmanship. It hosts numerous art galleries, museums, and cultural institutions making it a cultural center . 

Here a statue, there a statue . . .

As we leave the bazaar we enter Macedonia square,a completely contrasting space. It's a spacious square that spans the Vardar River. We see the back of a statue,  poised on an extraordinarily high pedestal, ahead of us holding his sword aloft. Wouldn't it be that of Alexander the Great, the very first name that pops up at the mention of Macedonia? The statue looks spanking new. And then there are several modern buildings around the square housing cultural and political institutions. There's also a mall. Only after we come to the front of the statue do we realise that the statue is not of Alexander but of Phillip, his father. Appearances can deceive. In the background is the Hamam.

And then it hits. Here a statue, there a statue, everywhere a statue. Definitely a dense population of past men of note. It may seem all too overwhelming but it does certainly help make history endure and give the city a pseudo classical feel.

The more prominent statues with fountains are those of Alexander's mother nurturing her child in the different stages of his childhood. There's also a statue devoted to mothers. 

And  there stands Alexander the Great mounted on his horse rearing to conquer more lands.it is an overwhelming 8 stories high!

The other side

Crossing over to the opposite bank across the iconic stone bridge (the Old Bridge),a 214 meter long bridge made of solid stone blocks resting on 12  arcs, we get views of the three modern bridges lined with statues of prominent people, from different generations and different walks of life, who have contributed to the growth of the country over the centuries. Each bridge has a theme. That's when we enter Macedonia Street. This is  obviously Skopje's  industrial, commercial, and administrative centre. 

We are led to a tree which stands in place of the house Mother Teresa was born into an Albanian family in 1910. Ethnically, therefore, she is Albanian. That is the reason why Tirana, Albania takes pride in  her through statues in her memory. A few meters away is the humble Mother Teresa Memorial House on the 2nd floor of which is a gallery of pictures and icons related to the Saint. 

Italian irritation

Our tour leader has booked us dinner at the Italian restaurant in a vast mall which is strangely very quiet in spite of the abundance of shoe shops and a few branded clothing stores. The waiters are brusque with us since we have asked for late dining. We are served pasta and a dessert that I wouldn't call Italian. They are very happy to whisk away our plates, mostly unfinished portions, and call it a day.

Brand new accommodation 

We are in for a surprise. Our hotel for the night is directly opposite the memorial. It's a slim building which makes us conjure up what our rooms would look like. However we are not going in yet for our tour bus has to find a way to get to the closest road where parking is limited to 10 mins. The trees in the vehicle-free Macedonia Street have wrap-around seats. Exhausted, we slump on to these while others waddle into the hotel lobby. It is fun to see night life beginning to pick up all around us and the temperatures falling. Finally, after nearly an hour, our bus driver has been advised by the hotel to pull up at a back street from when we could pick up our luggage. It's quite a trudge. We do get bellboys who handle the bulkier suitcases.

We have the best rooms on the trip so far. Partly it's because the hotel is just a few months old, the Vietnamese staff speaks English, the towels are brand new, etc. There is a weighing machine as well! It's definitely five stars and more.

Living up to expectations 

As the lights go on we go out into the city retracing our morning route. At the river bank on Macedonia Street the large green park which is an oasis during the day has transformed into a dynamic space. A large group of people surrounds a few artists- painters, a magician, acrobats- demonstrating their work alive. .it is teeming with people enjoying a leisurely stroll or engaged in various activities. We arrive at the even more vibrant and busy old bazaar with restaurateurs calling out to customers. Craft and souvenir shops take on a magical aura. 

It is then that we decide to try the new Bridges of Civilisation parallel to the stone bridge lit by beautiful street lamps. We now notice the triumphal arch covered in marble reliefs that depict important scenes from the history of Macedonia, including images of Alexander the Great. This depiction led into an official complaint by the Greek government since Greece has claims to the man who cut the Gordian Knot.

The street on the other side is awash with colourful lights displaying restaurants that offer diverse culinary experiences 

Dawn in Skopje

It's our morning routine to take a walk in the city before breakfast. The square and the street are still except for the occasional pedestrian up and about for work. As we cross the stone bridge the seemingly calm waters of the river reflect the surrounding buildings. The book shop with its attractive shutter and scooters for hire await customers after a busy night. 

We reach a space just next to the bazaar where we find ourselves just across the highway to the city under the imposing fort that we only had a glimpse of the previous day. 

While on the stone bridge a stray dog follows as though it was protecting us for it barked if birds flew near us and left us abruptly as soon as we finished the crossing.

The bazaar is silent. The stillness makes us more aware of our surroundings and the unimaginable huge statues placed in the midst of fountains. Then there are quirky statues. 

As we look up from anywhere in the vicinity, the Millennium Cross( one of the world's tallest) perched atop Mt Vodno, proudly supposed to celebrate 2000 years of Christianity in the region. Also it is twice the size of Christ the Redeemer in Rio. At night it is lit up

On our way back we come across a bull reminiscent of the one in New York City. Its tail is broken. The bull symbolizes the strength and fertility of the Macedonian people.

We also spot the old feudal tower that withstood the earth quake of 1963, before we reach our hotel for an excellent buffet breakfast.

That's when we realize how walkable this city of 500,000 is.

A new Church close to the mother Theresa memorial is nearing completion.

We  cover everything on foot within an hour which just goes to show how compact the city is.

Remarkable

The city was destroyed twice. The earlier destruction was caused by a fire started by Austrian troops in 1869 that burned for 2 days destroying the city and reducing the population from 60,000 to 10,000. It is also conjectured that the city was burnt down to eradicate the cholera epidemic.

Around 30 mosques within the city are testament to Ottoman, as are several hamams and inns .

Point of contention:

Greek or not?Ancient Macedonians spoke Greek and had a Hellenic culture. While modern North Macedonians speak a Slavic language from the 5th century onward. 

The Greeks believe that Macedonia also encompasses most of northern Greece and parts of western Bulgaria. Calling Skopje’s country Macedonia creates territorial implications. So this should not be used as the name of the country due to the territorial implications this could have.

Alexander the Great is called Warrior on A Horse in Macedonia because the Greeks claim him for themselves.

Internationally, the mini-state still has to call itself the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia – the title it was given by the UN shortly after independence – inspit of the fact that 132 countries have recognised it as the Republic of Macedonia.

Ohrid,Macedonia: A crazy history!

Full of promise

A heavy complimentary breakfast at Tirana has prepared us for a 2 1/2 hour journey to Ohrid, North Macedonia. I'm a little excited about Macedonia because of its association with Alexander the great. 

The winding, undulating route keeps my eyes peeled on the stunning landscape dotted with villages, interspersed with furrows of flowering plants, vegetables, and the conical haystacks topped with a knot.  We are surrounded by mountains cradling villages in its folds. Most of the way a river rushes along our side, pouring over weirs. And then there are tall bridges straddling hills. They support old railway tracks. Plus there are tunnels. 

Unpretentious mosques stand out simply because of their minarets.  Along the way we stop for a toilet break. We are surrounded by flowers..

Border checkpoint with a ‘tip’

Our tour leader has warned us that a 2 to 3 hour addition to our journey might be inevitable. It depends on the number of vehicles at the crossing. Sometimes officers would require that every bus passenger alight and meet an officer face to face. At other times the passports are collected by the driver who then passes them on to the officer. God forbid that an Albanian bus is ahead of us. It gets a thorough check which may take up to an hour for each bus.

We are lucky. Our driver hands over some bottled water to the concerned person and we are off in about 30 mins. 

Well fed lake extraordinaire 

Almost within an hour we are in Ohrid, the lake for which it is named and of which we have had tantalizing blue glimpses along our route. The lake shimmering in the heat has more than meets the eye with respect to nature and  culture. 

It shares the shoreline with Albania, its neighbouring country, on whose side is the town called Progdac. Over there are the springs of Drilon, one of the sources that feed the lake.  Modest tributaries fill it in from the north. Hear this! It is mainly fed by underground streams in the east which trickle through from  Lake Prespa 10 km away and at a higher altitude. 

We are not done yet! The water at the surface of Lake Ohrid moves mostly in a counter-clockwise direction along the shore. Why? The force of the  wind and the rotation of the Earth.

Here's more. It is one of Europe's deepest and oldest lakes, with a unique aquatic ecosystem, with more than 200 endemic species.

Unearthing the city on the slopes

Our local guide tells us that our tour of the old quarters begins with some gradual steps and slightly steeper slopes nearer the top. We brace ourselves for the hike. As we step into the old world we are confronted by a well preserved massive stone tower at Lower Gate. It is part of Samuel's Fortress. We step onto an iron grid over a cellar like depression. Apparently, in ancient and medieval times, before visitors could enter the gates they had to ‘ditch’ all they were carrying into the trench, to be reprieved later. Reason: to prevent contamination and to protect denizens from spreadable diseases. The entrants were also quarantined. 

It is easy to get lost in the labyrinthine alleys, charming narrow cobblestoned or flagstone streets lined with cafes, artisan shops (including a workshop that taught old fashioned paper making), stone walls, tiled roofs, etc. 

It gets a little steeper as we ascend. History has it that when the Turks came to Ohrid, they restricted the town’s Christian population to the walled area which enclosed the steep slopes of the city. That is why  parts of the town feel a little claustrophobic, with tall houses towering over narrow alleyways, throwing shadows.

It is also the reason why all the churches are found in this part of town.  

Architectural elements

We walk by  the Robev Family House, built in the 1900s, a significant example of a traditional Ottoman Turkish house and therefore an architecturally important cultural monument. It is now an Archaeological Museum, 

Blame it on constraints

Looking above in the narrow streets we see distinctive Ohrid architecture.  Each upper storey protrudes over the lower to add to the living area as the family expands  over the generations. The bottom floor is stone while the upper floors are constructed of wood. Wall niches and wood carved ornaments decorate the ceilings. 

Strict rebuilding codes

Do you want to own a house here? You are bound by law to adhere to traditional styles, and use appropriate material consistent with the historical context. Most importantly if renovation uncovers artefacts you may not be allowed to build over it!

‘Jerusalem of the Balkans’: spiritual hub

As we climb further we see crosses over the rooftops of small humble buildings. We pass by the Church of the Virgin Mary, which is one of the 365 ( one a day for the whole year)mostly tiny churches said to be in the town. Ohrid was after all a spiritual hub in the Macedonian region. Nobody's counting now.

Similar to Hagia Sophia in Istanbul

We do stop at the Church of Saint Sophia which has an old world charm. Built in the 9th century it is of Byzantine architecture with frescoes when it served as a Cathedral. Later it was transformed into a mosque. The frescoes were covered with lime. After World War 2, restoration uncovered the frescoes that are regarded as the finest examples of medieval art in the Balkans.

Hellenic: even more ancient.

We are almost at the top of the hill. From the base of a steep incline we catch sight of an amphitheatre surrounded by two hills. This was discovered when the land was to be used for building homes. Excavation for the foundation revealed parts of the theatre. Thanks to the strict rules no buildings were allowed over it. Instead the whole theater was excavated. Probably built around the 2nd century the theatre includes a stage in the middle. The acoustics would have been fantastic since the stage was protected from the winds by the two hills. The theater had also been used for gladiator flights.

Buried for a grisly reason

The theatre was where the Romans  executed the Christians. Naturally the site was highly disliked by the local residents.  Subsequently it was abandoned and buried.

Panting up to a breathtaking view

The gravel road along the theatre leads to stairs above which is a newer residential area. In the distance, just above the rows of houses is a hill that flies a huge flag. This marks Samuel's Fortress.  We are too limp to climb up even further for the fantastic views of the lake and the Church of Saint John at Kaneo, a picturesque gem perched on a cliff overlooking the azure waters of Lake Ohrid. Dating back to the 13th century, this small yet magnificent church is famed for its remarkable frescoes.  

There are pearls and then there are pearls!

I've heard of and seen Japanese pearls, Hyderabad pearls, cultured pearls, black pearls and pink pearls. Add another to the list: the Ohrid pearl which is not at all like a regular pearl. These are made from balls of powdered shells. Then they are covered layers of an emulsion made of fish( only found in ohrid) scales. The emulsion creates the rich colours and the shine. The exact process is a secret known only to two people.

This is a Bazaar?

All that is left for us to do is to explore the bazaar, more accurately a street paved with cobblestones and bits of marble lined with souvenir shops, especially for Ohrid's unique pearls. We think it is better to have some cash on hand especially if we found a bargain. We have been told that neither the USD nor the Euro will be accepted here. Most shops do not have the means to process credit cards. And this is true of most of the Balkan countries. A cheerful man at a booth does the exchange to Macedonian Denar over the counter in a matter of mins.

The elegant pearls stand out.they are e timing. I walk in and out of several,  find a few I like. But the price tags, even if they are reasonable, prevent me from buying any from the practical aspect.

‘Enlightenment’

We decide to go for ice cream in a cup for it is a scorching day and our dinner is an hour away. We find a tree just in front of the mosque and sit in its shade. Turkish ice cream is heavenly. The mosque with a prominent dome, elegant minarets, intricate carvings, and vibrant mosaics within and without is none other than the historic Ali Pasha Mosque. Besides  being considered the largest mosque in Ohrid it is also  a significant religious monument signifying the period of Ottoman rule. 

And.. we are sitting under a 900 year old plane tree also called the cinar tree.

Grilled trout

We meet members of our group at a lakeside restaurant at the stipulated time. Our dinner is fantastic except for the dessert which looked like a cheese cake which had more cake than cheese. The grilled trout served with a squeeze of lemon, roasted potatoes and fresh vegetables helped csp the day very well indeed. 

A panorama

Our hotel for the night is in a quiet part of town about 20 mins away from the old town. The rooms are not great but it is on the shores of the lake. The clear waters, the waves creating plumes across the rocks. Ohrid neatly tucked away on the hills far away made for a beautiful setting. I was able to catch the vibrant sun set against the hills in the distance.

Before an excellent breakfast the next day we decide to explore the vicinity. To our delight we found a park with a broad route for joggers and cyclists. The lone cypress tree at the hotel stood like a sentinel. The previous day we had walked in the central park, filled with rose bushes and shade trees, along the shores 

Trivia

The town is a UNESCO World Heritage due to its exceptional cultural and natural significance. 

This fortress used to be the capital of the First Bulgarian Empire back in the 11th century. Yes, Bulgarian. Leave it to the locals to fight it out.

North Macedonia was part of Yugoslavia and only got its independence in the early 90s.

Russian script on the signboards! No, no, says the Macedonian. It was Bulgarian before it became Russian!