Cockburn, Grand Turk and Caicos: salt, conches and banks

In Search of . . .

Cruising the Caribbean and the West Indies we dock at the cruise centre at Cockburn, on the island of Grand Turk, one of the islands forming the Turks and Caicos Archipelago, a British overseas territory. Most of the guests on board are ecstatic to be spending another day on the beach and snorkelling. We are simply walking off the pier, get a simple map at the  cruise centre and then decide the direction in which we would explore the town.

What attracts the guests most?

Blue skies,warm sparkling water, deck chairs around inviting pools in resorts and the variety of restaurants and souvenir shops  

The town has all the characteristics of a tropical climate. The sun is beginning to get intense. There's little shade along the beach front where only hardy tall coconut trees sway. Along the road are other palms that are pruned to look like giant pineapples. We do not see a side walk. The town is 5 km from the cruise centre and we would like to visit the library in its heart (something we do in most ports), not only because of my love of libraries but also because the librarian is always approachable and has answers to our questions either through personal knowledge or through  brochures. Also, in the days of yore when we travelled without data (i.e. about 10 years ago) most libraries in big cities had free Wifi!  

Engineered salt pans

When in port for the day we find it best to go to the further reaches of the port and then make our way back well before the ship leaves, or in smaller ports return for lunch and venture out again if it is not too hot.

We find that the residential area is further than 5 km. The historic light house is too exhausting a trip according to the distance on the map. Public transport just for that is out of the question. So we simply turn right and,lo and behold, we are at a vast, arid and hot barren land with something like an oasis in the  centre. A road leads to it. We walk up to the huge sign board that tells us we are at Town Pond Salinas.This used to be a saline lake which was channeled into a series of leveed man made evaporation ponds, water being being moved from one pond to the next as it evaporates into different stages of salinity becoming increasingly concentrated until salt crystals formed. The salt ponds extend to the Red Salinas closer to the  cruise pier.

A little bit of history: no need for a pinch of salt

According to the Britannica settlers from Bermuda arrived and established the salt industry. That is why the town of Cockburn  is named after Sir Francis Cockburn, who was Governor of the Bahamas in the early 19th century.  Historically, it is older than most European settlements in the Caribbean. In fact, the town is older than Kingston, the capital of Jamaica.. 

Production of salt was the mainstay of the islands’ economy, but it became unprofitable in the late 19 hundreds.

Now the economy is highly dependant on tourism and offshore financial services.Sea food export is the islands' third top economic activity. It includes export of conch and lobster.

As we make our way back to the city centre we browse the local craft shops along the seafront filled with island inspired artwork on wraps and scarves, and also shell craft. 

Mahogany and money

Then it's time to amble along the scenic Front Street along the beach front. Mercifully there are spots of shade under mahogany trees that are part of landscaping in the  iconic colonial buildings ( Bermudian style)housing the likes of the Victoria Library and the Turks and Caicos National Museum. The librarian, as expected, is cheerful, welcoming and informative,

We return to our liner for lunch before the scorching heat tires us out too much. We will definitely be served a local seafood dish for dinner.

Trivia, thanks to the librarian:

In 1962, Grand Turk was the first dry land that American astronaut John Glenn stepped foot on after orbiting Earth.

The name of the territory:

Turks" probably refers to either Turk's Head Cactus, or to the pirates who hid in the islands.

"Caicos" is from the" Caribbean term "caya hico," that translates to "string of islands". 

Ocho Rios, Jamaica: the mark of James Bond and Hurricane Melissa

Ocho Rios,Jamaica, is now making the news since the havoc caused by Hurricane Melissa.

We were in the cruise port in 2012. 

The walk of fame.

The walk from the port to the town is an easy jaunt. The weather is tropical. The coconut trees sway. Before we reach the town centre we walk towards Reynolds pier to walk over turquoise blue waters. Surprise, surprise! This is where Dr No ( a James Bond movie) was filmed! Even more Interesting, many of Ian Fleming's novels were written in his home just outside of town.

Noel Coward  also lived in the vicinity.

Mixed impressions.

Nearing the town centre we see a Taj Mahal-like building. No marble here. Just concrete. Painted White and green. Just a shopping centre filled with jewellery and duty free shops. We are not in the least attracted by it. More attractive are the art and craft markets both outdoor and indoors with reggae music in the background. The best thing is we are not harassed by touts. 

Mum and dad approach

All of a sudden pedestrian activity and vehicle movements become a little chaotic. School children are pouring out from every which direction. They are dressed in pinnafores and ties, very British like except that they take on the earthy colours of yellow and brown. The official language is English but Creole is widely spoken.

Some of the young ones address us as daddy and mummy while thrusting out their hands. They ask for money. We are a little unnerved by the experience. Calling males daddy and females mummy is local patois.

Somehow we are able to evade their approaches as we reach what looks like a sunken village with a stream and a pond. It is surrounded by ad hoc dwellings. This must be what remains of the fishing village that has now dramatically developed into a cruise port and a holiday destination.

Are we in British Colonial Asia?

We decide to walk to the hilly residential area that we had noticed as we entered the harbour. It is humid and we sweat up and down the undulating paths lined with houses, surrounded by mango, banana and morainga trees. Also hibiscus and bougainvillea. The building style and lush foliage is akin to that in Malaysia.

A final view

From up here we have a view of the pristine beaches ,brilliant blue waters and white sands of the many bays, including James Bond Bay where we are docked.

A doubt cleared

Are there really 8 rivers, for Ocho Rios is Spanish for eight rivers? no, there's only two. It seems it is a British mispronunciation of another Spanish word Las Chorreras,which means  "the waterfalls". Of course there is a reason for this name.  A short drive from Ocho Rios is the famous Dunn's  River Falls. It is an iconic attraction for the multilevelled cascades which we chose not to visit. 

We leave behind a port that has a bay, a trail, and an airport named after the secret agent.

We hope residents are resilient and are able to pick their lives almost totally destroyed by hurricane Melissa.

Dumbstruck by an ancient culture: Cozumel Island, Mexico

Another Caribbean island noted for its beach

The only reason we are here is that we are on a Caribbean cruise. So we arrive at Cozumel with no expectations. The only thing we know is that it is a tiny island off the Yucatan peninsula, Mexico.The name Cozumel was derived from the Mayan "Cuzamil" (also spelled "Cutzmil") or "Ah Cuzamil Peten" in full, which means "the island of swallows" (Spanish: Isla de las Golondrinas). The name evokes a sense of cosiness. The fact that it is in the Caribbean means that, like most other islands in the area, it is known for its beaches, vibrant nightlife, etc. 

Following instincts

On arrival at Puente Langosta, most of the guests rush off either to the beaches or for snorkeling and diving experiences. We have a hearty breakfast to fuel ourselves for whatever else the port has to offer. We walk along the pier apron towards the exit from the Port into the town of San Miguel de Cozumel. Waiting for passengers are rickshaws and taxis. Jeep buggies filled with young party goers whiz by. Cozumel certainly has a roaring tourist business.

Friendly service: My name is Rahul

We know that the island has Mayan ruins because a friendly rotund taxi driver has hailed us with his offer. He is so cheerful and pleasant that we take to him immediately. He declares, “ My name is Raol. You know, like Rahul Gandhi?”  We share a few more snippets that's beyond my recall now!

He explains the island is 28 miles long and 11 miles wide. The coastline of the Southern half of the island has one main ring road. The northern tip of the island is inaccessible because it is covered with dense coastal vegetation. The official language in Mexico is Spanish, however, it is generally possible to communicate with locals in English. Local currency is the Peso but the USD is greatly appreciated.

Pummeled into a new natural seascape

We arrive at a beach that is more rocky than sandy. There are a few tropical trees that seem sculptured into fantastical shapes. Why the atmospheric scene? About 7 years before our visit  Hurricane Emily and then the category 5 Hurricane Wilma passed the Southern coast of Cozumel causing extensive damage to the island from which it is still trying to recover. Cell phone towers, power lines and trees were whipped down. Cars and piers floated away. Houses and roads were damaged. It also caused some damage to the coral reefs.

At the sea side restaurant stands a hefty bull all saddled up. We associate Spain with bulls but in Mexico? Apparently the idea of the bull is not Mayan but something that got included in the island’s local carnival. Now you can take a ride on it for a fee. 

Don't you forget the local animals

As we wind our way along the road towards the Mayan ruins of San Gervasio our driver points at something we pass by. “Did you see that?” , he asks excitedly. I saw only a gray rock, with a fallen tree across it,by a pool, But believing that it must have been something  significant I take a quick shot hoping to see what exactly I had missed. I identified the reptile beautifully camouflaged against a rock ! A crocodile!

Shudders at San Gervasio World Heritage Site

As we enter the ruins we see an iguana in a relaxed posture right in front  of one of the Mayan structures with a few columns and windows. We tend to rush past for we are afraid the relaxed posture might turn into an alert one leading to a pounce.

A little calmer now we are able to take in the surroundings. Ancient paved roads now restored seem to lead into mysterious nooks and corners. From the plaza we walk in the steps of ancient Mayans through a clearing, skipping over and around ancient gnarled roots to a rather strange looking pool surrounded by well layered rocks. We are staring down a cenote. It is a ceremonial sinkhole/natural pit/underground water-filled cavern.There is no guessing what stepping into one would lead to. But for the Mayans it was a crucial  source of fresh water for their rituals and ceremonies. More than that, it was the gateway to the underworld! So it was symbolic of  life and death. I shudder when I imagine the offerings thrown into it: material and human.

Pilgrim center

 Little House is on a side path. An altar occupies  the centre and therefore probably was used for ceremonies.

Yes, Big House next. That building has more to show.it still has the original grass roof and wall murals.

The more the discovery the more the  willies 

And then there is the Tall House,  the central building on a raised platform. It has a pyramid-like structure. Before falling into ruin it had had human faces carved into the steps. Was it a temple dedicated to Ixchel, the goddess of fertility? Many statues were found here. Mayan women from the mainland made a pilgrimage to the island's deity at least once in their lifetime. 

Archeologists found a vaulted tomb in its interior Since the structure is like a platform occupied by only an altar and benches on the top, it is surmised that the structure was used for open air ceremonies in which not only the priests participated, but also a large assembly in the plaza. 

A time to pause and reflect on the passage of time

A culture that spanned 15 centuries starting at 100 BC. Look at how the stones still stand. Imagine what life was like. Imagine the ingenuity and the scale of these structures. Imagine a deep rooted civilization that is slowly giving way to progress. We are humbled by  the fact that 1000s of years ago someone who had a family, who lived, loved, celebrated, mourned, built, farmed lived right here

And just like that we are back in the 21st century.  take a walk along the souvenir stores. From an over bridge we get to see the ubiquitous Light House as well as the main thoroughfare. We wade through the crowds at Monkey Bay resort laid out with blue deck chairs before we call it a day.

Roatan island, Honduras: Paradise Lost to us

Once a dangerous port

As our liner enters the dock at Mahogany we get a glimpse of a ship wreck. We should not be surprised since we are at the largest island in Honduras which is well known for its being in the periphery of the hurricane region. It seldom gets direct hits from the winds for they cross over other landmasses and islands before reaching Roatan.However,The tail end of the hurricanes do bring about periods of high winds and rains. It would have been riskier had we tendered in or come during the rainy season and had one of the big names in cruise liners, Carnival Corporation, not built the port which is for the most part operated by them, making it a popular spot for cruise ships visiting the western Caribbean. 

Avoiding the popular thrills for real life

Roatan is famed for its tropical weather coral reefs, eco-adventures in lush jungles and its beaches. And, hear this. It's known for its sloths! Not being sloths and since we are and not interested in diving or tanning on the beaches we do what we do best. From the cruise centre it is a short walk to the city centre. It is a rainy day.

We are obviously in the centre of the town for we are  at City Hall, in the capital town of Coxen Hole, its name in Spanish right about the entrance, for that is the first language of the 3 Bay Islands, one of which is Roatan. Spanish is the official language. We talk to a well built male who exits city hall and has a few minutes to spare. He is a school teacher. He apologises for the weather that has made it inconvenient for us to explore the town. He tells us that almost everybody speaks English.

And then there is an international bank and a church with beautiful stained glass windows.

Where's the energy and the vibes?

Granted, it's a rainy day. But people are going about the daily chores. The shops are open. We notice that the houses built closer to the shore are on stilts. A walk around the town leads us to a bust. I still haven't got the details about it. Still searching. A kind of war memorial. Then there is the children's playground abandoned on this wet day. Nice photo opportunity  sitting on the hawksbill sea turtles.

Did we miss something?

As we get back to the cruise centre we see young mangrove shoots planted to protect the shore line from erosion and also to protect marine life. We didn't even think of walking over to the beach which is not far off. Its silky sands are not tempting enough. 

Had we gone perhaps we might have come face to face with  the likes of Richard Gere, Michael Douglas, and Cameron Diaz who frequent the island.

Story book and history

We are back at the cruise centre where we come face to face with a pirate instead. Not scary enough for it is after all a figure of a green parrot with a hooked nose, one set of talons gone, donning  a pirate's hat, apparently squawking for attention. Reminds me of Captain James  Cook of Peter Pan. Just next to is a pair of walk in boots. I'm certainly too small for the boots. And I do not belong in the pirate themed bar for I'm a teetotaller!

And then there's a large statue that could be a replica of a Mayan artifact with a detailed headdress and ceremonial robes? But roatan has a pre Colombian history. The inhabitants traded with the Mayan and hence . . . How do they tie up?There's a lot more to learn there!

Could we have done more?

The island is small and there appears to be a local bus station that plies  the outskirts of Roatan. It would have been interesting to take those buses if anyone had been sure of a schedule for it will never do to miss the boat.

Hosur : LIttle England in India

First impressions

We fly to Bangalore for a short trip to spend a few days in Hosur. We land at the airport in Bangalore. Since it is very late at night we only get some idea that it is a huge and beautiful airport with the officers doing credit to their jobs, being obliging and respectful. We have a booked taxi waiting for us outside the airport. Even with directions here and there we still have to check with airport staff now and then. It is a maze that takes us to the open air leaving us to the elements,and then a narrow walkway that thankfully leads to a lift that will take us to the basement with several sections marked with alphabets. We manage to connect with the driver on his phone and wait for him to pick us up at the designated area. He is very friendly. He speaks English. 

Driver knows best

Bangalore is the Silicon Valley of India. It is the capital of the state of Karnataka. We start off on our long drive to Hosur which is in the state of Tamil Nadu. The road leading out of the airport is a world class tolled highway. But once we get close to the city centre we go through the city instead of taking a shorter and less congested route. Why? There has been criminal activity along that stretch. The driver does not want to take a risk at that time of day when help could be far away and so we pass by some familiar buildings like the Vidhana Soudha almost at snail's pace for even at about 11 pm there is a traffic jam. The city sparkles with lights. All the signs are in Kannada (the local language) and English. And then  the signs change to Tamil/English. We have crossed the border into Tamil Nadu. We have left the frenzy and the neon lights behind us and entered a calmer and fresher atmosphere. We pass by several huge industrial buildings. The  distance of 73 km that should have taken us 1 1/2 hrs takes us nearly 3 hours. 

What's in the moniker?

We are visiting Hosur not only because we have family here but also because we like the outskirts of the city for the fresh air from the hills and the dense forests where elephants roam and rivers flow.  With the area's hills, cliffs and the valleys the climate is very cool and pleasant. The cold and cloudy weather resembles that of England. Hence, during the British regime it was referred to as  'Little England'. 

Thanks to the fertile land and good access to fresh water a variety of fruits and vegetables thrive. A walk through the smaller residential areas means coming across fields of tomatoes, cabbages, cauliflower, onions, mangoes, capsicum, carrot, cucumber, beans, coriander leaves, turnips and radishes. Roses are also grown in large numbers. In fact very early in the morning the main thoroughfare is filled with flower vendors with their baskets full of garlands and strung flowers.

The river flowing nearby becomes our favorite spot. Even though the river is said to be highly polluted, and getting to the bank means negotiating through overgrowth and slippery slopes the river and its rocky outcrops offer us fresh air and serenity. Sometimes cattle are given a good scrub in the river and then left to graze in the vicinity. 

An experience 

Our kin encourage us to accompany them to a Thithi Ceremony where food is offered to the departed so that the descendants would be blessed. It would be near running water for the food offering specially prepared for the ceremony has to be let go in it after a priest performs the rituals. We are at the foothill of Dhakshina Tiruppathi temple. The river is fast flowing. Today is the day of offerings and so it is crowded but not as dirty as we expected. We spend the time sitting on the rocks by the bank brushed by the breeze and soothed by the sounds of the river rushing over and around obstacles.

Tribal village schools

We also visit a Tribal village school in one of the several adjacent hills. What a roller coaster ride it was.The children speak Kannada, the language spoken in Karnataka, even though they live in TamilNadu where Tamil is spoken. It is all a matter of history and political changes. They have a smattering of English. The school graciously allows me to teach them a tongue twister after their regular teacher explains to them what the words mean. The older children are excited to repeat “ red lorry, yellow lorry”. They take it all very seriously.

A fast growing city

Hosur is well known in India as a satellite town of Bangalore. Bangalore is an expensive city to live in. It makes sense for young recruits to live in Hosur and then take the shuttle services to and from their workplace in Bangalore. Hence Hosur town has grown in leaps and bounds. 

It is also known for its concentration of manufacturing industries like Tanishq, Tata, Titan, Ashok Leyland, International Aerospace Manufacturing, etc mainly due to its strategic location, infrastructure and government  policies. 

Stunning is all I can say

We leave for the airport 5 hours early to negotiate nasty traffic snarls. Besides, a local overhead bridge is slightly dislodged. Luckily for us only trucks have to make a detour into the city. But when we meet at the other side there is a bottle neck. Going to or from the airport requires at least half a day!

But what a relief to arrive at the terminal where natural materials and sustainability predominate the architecture. The washrooms are being diligently and meticulously cleaned by pleasant employees. They are delighted by our appreciation of their usually thankless job.

 

Notoriety

These are the very forests that were the haunts and then the refuge of the contentiously infamous Santhanakattai Veerappan till he was caught in a major police operation.

Pulsating melting pot: Bucharest, Romania

Herculean grandeur 

Our tour leader drops us at a vast square in the capital city of Romania. Awaiting us is a rotund, cheerful guide. All around us are imposing buildings both in terms of varied architectural details and in terms of size, some being humongous. We have started at Revolution Square and we'll be strolling along Calea Victoriei. The building that looks austere and dignified because of its blackened domes is befitting of the central University library designed by a Frenchman. Glittering just nearby is a glass paneled dome crowning the Romanian state bank. 

The transformation: a gateway to the past

Opposite is the National Museum of Romanian History. Like all the Balkan countries we visited, Romania's history is no less colourful having been ruled or influenced by Ottomans, Germans and Communism. Some ruins are preserved in the original site with horizontal glass panels protecting  them from the ravages of the weather, and from human hands.

Next comes the building that dominates the square with its massive white facade and imposing, majestic tall columns. It is none other than the Royal Palace (built over the ruins of a monastery) which no longer houses monarchs but now showcases the rich art of the region in an opulent interior. It is called the National Museum of Art of Romania.

Resilience: Communism thwarted

Before it stands a unique sculpture: a white spire poking through a black pebble shaped rock. A close look reveals that the spire is made of white marble, and the rock is a metal ring.. It is called the Memorial of Rebirth: The white represents the Romanians and the black the Communistic era that stifled the country. Hence it represents the resilience of Romania, of a people who will always fight for their freedom. 

Centre of Learning and culture

Where learning takes place rebellion seems to follow. We are now walking by university buildings. It is from here that we get a glimpse of an iconic building. It is the Roman Athenaeum. Its architecture stands as a symbol of Romanian culture.  The majestic concert hall's  grand dome and neoclassical design symbolize the city’s artistic spirit. It boasts of having hosted some of the world’s biggest musical names 

Iconic surprises

We walk along a tree lined avenue in the University area towards Lipscani, the historic district in Bucharest known for its cobblestoned streets, even more historic buildings, and a vibrant atmosphere generated by various shops, cafes, and restaurants.  One of the cafés proudly displays Ganesha, the iconic Hindu Elephant God. 

Am I hallucinating?

Integrating the new into the old. 

A striking image makes us stop in our tracks. The architecture of the said building cleverly combines a historic facade (of the ex-secret police headquarters) with a modern glass structure atop. Not surprisingly it was built by an architecture company and it appropriately houses the Union of Romanian Architects. What a creative way to integrate the new building into the preserved facade of the old.

Tucked snugly away from despotic eyes

We are still not far from the huge palace turned into a museum. Next to it is a red brick church with a porch. One of the oldest in Bucharest, it incorporates Byzantine, Oriental and Western architectural elements. It is said to have retained some of the original frescoes after suffering damage from the 1989 revolution.

Quick, hide the churches! 

Why?  The communist era did not favour religion. Worshippers had to be creative to be able to continue their practices and prevent the demolition of the places of prayer. The answer lay in building huge complexes around the churches dwarfing them enough to thwart destructive eyes. 

A respite from the heat

All of a sudden our guide turns into what seems like an arcade similar to those found in Japanese cities but lined with very different and colourful establishments that are mostly cafes and restaurants. The whole pedestrian only street is covered with a glow from the yellow glass( fashionable in Europe during the 19th century tury) roof. There is a quiet dignity about it all.

The passage connects the old town  to Victoria Avenue.

More hidden churches.

We take a different route back to the old quarter and simply amble about. We discover Stravolopolis monastery,  an 18th-century Eastern Orthodox monastery known for its architectural style, which blends Renaissance, Byzantine, Ottoman, and Baroque. “Stavropoleos," in Greek means "City of the Cross".  We are able to have a closer look at the stunning hand-painted frescoes and ornate wood carvings as well as a peaceful courtyard. 

The monastery is known for its Byzantine music choir. It is also known for the largest collection of music books( 8000 ancient volumes) in Romania., 

Next we come across the Church of the Goldsmiths. The golden spire of this Orthodox Church was built by the goldsmiths. The white walls, red brick accents, a central large dome and four smaller domes looks like it belongs in a fairytale.

A few steps away is the stunning Zlătari Church, notable for housing the relics of Saint, specifically his preserved right arm, which is believed to have the power to lift curses and spells. 

 From Safekeeping to Showcasing

Across the street  stands the CEC Palace in all its glory : a grand façade and impressive glass and metal dome dominating the scene. The interior is no doubt as lavish as the ornamental details on the outside. Built in the 1900s by a French architect it was meant to serve as the headquarters of the House of Savings and Consignments Safeguarding Romania's rich art and documents. It no longer serves  as a vault.  It has, over the years, hosted various businesses and government offices, including the Senate. Today the iconic building is a cultural hub, for it not only houses a museum and art galleries but also hosts exhibitions  which was  CEC).

No clue

Close by is an excavation site covered with sheet glass. I still do not know much about its importance but it does help boost the image of a museum.

Popular 'food' street

For dinner  we are taken to the street which is said to be full with a variety of cuisines in the plethora of restaurants and cafes. It is near the Cocor Shopping centre for which we don't care  very much except for its facade which has a row of screens along its walls . These screens use livestreaming simultaneously. 

Nepali shocker

We look for a restaurant. Our friends find a Nepalese restaurant and we walk into a narrow space with black tables and chairs. Our table is closest to the cashier and we have a view of the entrance to the kitchen. Asking for some of the items displayed in the menu only drew blanks. They ordered the basic leavened bread with the most basic side dish. We waited. We prompted. We waited. Nothing remotely reassuring. We waited. Still nothing! Time is running out. We have to meet our fellow travellers in a few minutes. There would be no time to eat. We threaten to leave since we are to meet our fellow travellers soon. We ask for parcels. They hurriedly put together something and hand it over. DrInk and I had spotted a bakery on our way to the restaurant. I had some local currency left that I did not want to take back home. The exchange would not be favourable for such a meager amount. The pastries were just the right price. We always feel safe eating vegetarian pastries when traveling. And so we ate those. 

It is only upon returning to the hotel that our friend discovers he has paid a hefty sum for specialty fare that did not even meet minimum standards. It is too dry and tasteless. A wishy washy job altogether. 

Just as we leave we spy another church  that seems to fit into a frame close to us making it a photo option. Research tells me it is Bărăția Church. The structure indicates its non Orthodox. The Roman Catholic Franciscan brotherhood founded its first church here in 1314.

 

An ubiquitous symbol

We meet our tour leader at  the statue of the dog. Wrong! It's a wolf. Called the Capitoline Wolf, the statue is a well-known symbol of Rome's founding myth that of a she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus, the legendary founders of Rome. 

If you find replicas of this statue in other countries in Europe it is because they have Latin roots like Romania which has gifted them the pieces.

Spinning, shooting and dancing

We drive along the avenue that stretches for almost a kilometre, with massive water features in the center around the roundabout, lining the main streets and leading up to the Palace of the Parliament. We are too early for the nighttime show when jets of water shoot skyward, the fountains lit by  swirling illuminated by a phantasmagoria of colours  perfectly synced to music of different kinds. These musical fountains are unique to Bucharest. 

Too big for the lens

We arrive at the Palace. It is huge. Our tour leader gives us a few minutes to take pictures. Very few of us are interested because the day is fading, the gardens surrounding the building are out of bounds. And, some construction work is obstructing our view. 

Controversial:Colossal cost, weight and proportions

Anyway the Palace is so huge our camera lenses couldn't possibly capture it in one shot! After all this is Europe's Largest Administrative Building: it houses the Romanian Parliament. It is the heaviest in the world.

It has a rather absorbing history. The Romanian communist dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu, commissioned the building. The Palace  with more than 3000 rooms was intended to symbolize the success of communism in Romania. It is said his wife had a hand in the opulent interior decoration. 

Ceaușescu's legacy did not turn out to be a crowning glory, since he was overthrown and executed( the hearing lasted less than an hour)before its completion. 

Could have been in Paris

What with French architects in the little Paris in the city centre we end our visit with a passing glance of the grand Triumphal Arch, a miniature of  the Parisian Arc de Triomphe, but Romanian without a question for the intricate sculptures are reminders of the country’s  history and mythology. After all, it was built in 1936 to celebrate the country's victory in WWII.

Reflection

The day ends on a sunset reflecting from the glass walls of an adjacent building. It is the last day of our Balkan tour. Massive government buildings, ornate churches, and stately museums vie each other to create an identity for a country that is swiftly recovering from the suffering under communism 

The town with eyes: Sibiu, Romania

Hermannstadt

The German name speaks of the remarkable historic events, involving Transylvania and the Saxons, that I wrote about in a previous blog. Today the city is popularly known as Sibiu. Before we reach the historic centre we pass by modern high rise housing in pleasant pastels. A hint of what is to come.

Fortification repurposed

As soon as we set foot in the old town we walk through a walled fortification that leads to the Thick Tower. This is one of the original 39 defensive towers built to guard the town. It has a unique U shape . At different levels there are platforms for cannons and other defense measures. Over the years it has variously served as a grain storehouse, a fire watchtower, a temporary prison and even a museum. 

A proud culture

Annexed to the tower is Thalia Hall, an impressive theatre and concert hall, which houses the State Philharmonic of Sibiu. The hall hosts weekly concerts by the Sibiu Orchestra and also other performances like the ballet. 

Class division ?

This medieval city’s historic center has two parts, the lower and the upper. What do you associate with the upper ? Did I hear you say ,”the upper class”? You're spot on. The lower town was the domain of the artisans and such. Where are we right now? That's right, the Upper Town for after all we just passed the theatre. 

Close by is  the Sibiu County Department of the National Archives of Romania. And artists have displayed their works for sale right opposite the building.

All eyes on us: See-(v/b)iew  as Sibiu is pronounced!

All around us are houses with attic windows that are designed to look like eyes. It is no wonder then that Sibiu has the appropriate moniker: The city of eyes.

All eyes are on our local guide as well as she is proudly  dressed in a dark green traditional costume. Apparently she is an award winning Romanian guide. She waits for us in the arched passage featuring a cobbled floor and white walls, characteristic of the town's historical passages and alleys. The passage leads into the vibrant town square, the Piata Mare (Big Square),. 

Distinct German logic, reason and the fine arts

Brukenthal Palace appears before us. What used to be the house of the Governor of Transylvania is now Romania’s first museum. It includes the Pharmacy Museum, the museum of Hunting and the museums of History, Romanian art and Contemporary art.

Just across the museum is Sibiu City Hall, featuring ornate architectural details in facades and balconies,a cupola and the attic windows.

We also happen to walk around the coat of arms of Sibiu, embossed on metal, embedded on the ground.

Steeped in history

The steeple of  the Lutheran Cathedral of Saint Mary looms before us. Adding to its Gothic architecture is the fact it served as a burial place for important figures in Sibiu society until the 18th century. Way out another landmark stands out: Saint John's Church with its distinctive bell tower 

The invaluable craftsmen

As we pound the cobblestones we come across a curiosity: a pole with tools, buttons and nails stuck to it. It is called the Journeymen's  pole.  The items were left behind by traveling craftsmen to symbolise not only their craft but also their journey. The building it fronts used to house these men and served as a workshop

There's also a German-language high school, named after Samuel von Brukenthal, who served as the governor. The school has a long history, starting in the 14th century making it the oldest German-language school in Romania. The present building is not in its original site but on that of an earlier educational institution. You wouldn't know since that's how subtle the restoration work in Sibiu is.

A tableau appears

Walking through another archway  we greeted with a vista of the lower town with its sloping paths and stairways and arches.

Bridge of lies

Several steep streets and stairways lead from the Lower to the Upper Town and. One of them, a steep incline,  passes beneath the "Bridge of Lies" - a popular meeting place among the locals even though it's rather lonely today.A bridge like you see in other parts of Europe with lovers locks  on the railings? Not exactly.

Be warned, though. The bridge will collapse as soon as anyone tells a lie while expressing love or making a trade deal while on it. 

Rest assured. These are just legend legends. The Germans called the bridge Liegenbrücke. It translates to ‘lying bridge’ describing the fact that it has no supporting pillars.

Will I miss it?

Since we started our walk in Sibiu the Trinity Catholic Church has caught my eye. I wanted to enter but we are busy moving on to other sights. By the time our tour guide leaves us on our own I begin to despair. Will I ever get to see the interior? The cathedral entrance is elusive. We hardly see anyone entering or leaving and the people we ask about it do not know! And then we see some people leaving and I quickly move to the spot and enter. I'm not disappointed. Some  Worshippers remain seated, while others are getting  ready to leave. So I quickly take in the ornate decorations, murals, pink columns, ceiling frescoes and the intricate stone carvings and the organ 

Twilight zone

That night we are to stay in Sibiu. As soon as we check in, we leave for the Old town again because we do not want to miss the sunset. We simply enter the fortress and head west as far as we can go until we hit a wall in the upper town. The sun has almost set casting a golden glow over the red brick walls. Little was I prepared for the surrealistic spectacle with arches framing views. We were actually at the Stairs Passage, a third fortification ring made up of arches and stairs around the Protestant Church. It served as an important link between the upper and lower towns.

As we returned to the hotel, we began to notice how the subtly modern restaurants are getting very busy plying customers with culinary delights while soaking in the old town charm.

Sibiu is soo- beayu-tiful. The dormer eyes which never close trading their sight over the precious heritage!

With a soar and a sigh(t): Sighisoara, Romania

Fairyland

We are headed towards Sighisoara, a citadel on a hill top. Our tour leader has thoughtfully arranged  to take us to the top on a little red train. Passing by pastel hued houses along inclined, windy,cobblestoned streets on which we go bump-bump, and medieval towers and then a red walled white trimmed house is like a child's dream of fairyland come true.

Imbued with Dracula 

Lunch has been arranged for us at a creepy looking, bright yellow, medieval building Marked by a black iron dragon, with narrow, dark staircases. We are served food on platters that evoke gore but are aesthetically plated, nevertheless.  We are right in the building where Vlad the Impaler, also known as Vlad Dracula,was born sometime between 1428 and 1431.gained notoriety for his brutal method of impaling his enemies  A room within has been turned into a horror museum which fans can enter for a fee. We didn’t bother to go in, but there was a long queue. 

A few metres away is the torture chamber! We simply walk by. Entrance is near the  (shudder)Passage of the Old Ladies, a rustic covered walkway!

A spectacular introduction

Just opposite is the clock tower, an imposing edifice lording over the dramatic old town. A 17th century Swiss clock with faces on two sides of the tower is its defining feature. On the side facing the city are seven wooden figures, one for each day of the week, stored inside. The figure representing the particular day appears outside. A brilliant mechanism changes the figures each day. On the other side of the tower, facing the citadel, are various other figures. A climb within the three storeyed tower would have taken us to the floors dedicated to the Roman, Medieval  and Saxon history of Romania and of course the innards of the unique clock.The multi-colored roof tiles glitter in the sun.

You can't play truant

One of the buildings we pass by is the German cultural centre which is now a museum with plenty of handicraft for sale. Very close to it is a covered wooden staircase consisting of 176 steps called Scholars’ Stairs. It was built as a passage connecting  the lower citadel with the upper. The roof ensured that the passage remained navigable during the harsh winter weather and its heavy snowfall. On the top stands the Church on the Hill. Besides, this staircase helped students reach the school near the church throughout the year. It’s still here to this day and you can walk up the dark stairs to get to the top of the hill! Now buskers make good use of the walkway.

We skip the stairs and therefore deprive ourselves of being  awed by the historic webbed ceiling and frescoes within the church as also the historic cemetery.

Where is  the monastery?

As we wander around we see the Monastery Church. The Monastery that was beside the church was demolished in the late 19th century. In its place stands the present town hall.the church with its Gothic architecture is spooky. Again we just walk around it knowing fully well about the valuable bronze artifacts it houses. 

Tower spotting

Defensive towers, of which only nine towers have survived, were built into the walls surrounding the old town, of which the Clock Tower is one. Each one is designed differently depending on the finances of the guild that took responsibility for it. The only other one we can identify clearly is the Tailors tower with its double archway, just opposite the clock Tower. 

Unknowingly we walk along the citadel walls and find ourselves in what we now know to be the tower walk. We should have spotted the blacksmith's tower, which was also close to the clock tower,and the water tower but then we really did not know what we were looking for. Turning a corner and passing through yet another archway takes us to a blue building. That is called the Blue House citadel. We might have found all of them had the walk not involve steep inclines and had the cobblestones been kinder to our feet.

We are back at citadel square to start our walk downhill towards our bus. But not before another look at the colourful ancient buildings and glimpses  of the stalls selling trinkets, and souvenirs. 

An unmistakable Saxon built citadel indeed, with the guilds, the school and the fortification!

Not to be brushed off: Brasov, Romania

Incredulous history:Saxons in Transylvania

I've always associated Saxons with Britain partly because I'm familiar with the term Anglo-Saxons. But Saxons in Romania?Just as the Ottoman rulers of old in the Balkans have left an indelible mark in the culture of the region, so have the Saxons in what was Transylvania. Who are these Saxons? They were all from the German speaking regions, and therefore a Germanic tribe. Why were they in Transylvania? Well, the sparsely populated Transylvania of the 12th century was part of Hungary. The then king invited these people to populate the area and consequentially defend it from marauders. The first group to arrive settled in Sibiu (to be covered in my next post ) in the southern parts of Transylvania. 

In the 13th century the Hungarian ruler granted the Brasov area to the Germanic tribe. They in turn attempted to establish their own state. The area needed defence not internal strife and so the wise king granted them many privileges so that they would remain loyal to Hungary. They were exempt from taxes and duties. In return they made a yearly payment for the lands they received as well as provide soldiers for the king.

In other words, the Germanic tribe was an immigrant community invited for the defence of Transylvania and to contribute to its economic development.

They were expert craftsmen and tradesmen. They formed guilds. They contributed greatly to the growth of Brasov as a city. They helped to maintain the walls and bastions. The seven citadels (one of which is mentioned in my previous post) in the area stand testament to their valuable contribution to the 6th largest city in Romania.

Ominous start

We walk down the main street under a sky laden with clouds. Our introduction to Brasov begins with the boutiques, cafes and souvenir shops, housed in and between historic buildings including a church, probably Orthodox, built during the Soviet era, that line the pedestrian Strada Republici. The side is artistically paved.It is certainly a picturesque  town with  varied architecture styles and colourful facades. We simply pass by insinuatingly squeezed alleys reminding me of Venice. What stories would we have uncovered? The narrowest street in Europe is somewhere here.

The long street leads us right into Piața Sfatului (Marketplatz, in German), the heart of the old town. A marquee and chairs arranged in a circle tell us that some event is on. There is some music and movement of people but we are clueless as to what exactly is going on. Our local guide is droning on about the history of Brasov intent on taking us to the Black Church. Perhaps he did say something about how the central square is always bustling with people, and that numerous events take place here.

The phenomenon 

The first building that rises before us is the very Viennese looking administrative building of the University of Transylvania.  And then we feel the drizzle picking up. Hurriedly we unfurl our umbrellas, and seek shelter in a narrow space in the buildings fringing the square. The rain pierces the umbrellas held at angles to form a wall. It is not rain but ice crystals in the form of long needles! Of course, they almost  immediately form puddles at our feet. That phenomenon turns out to be a great setting for what we are about to learn. A few 100 years ago the square was used for public executions, punishments and public humiliation (for crimes including witchcraft), just as in Piazza San Marco in Venice, Italy. 

Trodding on  the entombed 

But that's not all. When the rain lets up we walk along the gravel around the church, skipping puddles. Why was it not paved? Hold your breath! A complex of 1,400 graves lie under our feet!  Also underneath us are archaeological remains of a civilisation. 

The Council House in the centre of the square, now a Museum of History, has displays of artefacts from the various historical eras in the area.

Biserica Neagra: Black Church 

This majestic Lutheran church, originally Roman Catholic, was built in the 14th century by the Bulgarians over a period of 100 years. (Sagrada Familia( Barcelona, Spain) was started 144 years ago and is still not complete.) This blackened church reminds me of Kholn, Germany.  The Kholn cathedral was constructed of sandstone before the industrial revolution. Over the years natural aging, pollution and damage during World War II contributed to the darkening of the facade.

The same can be said of the Black Church, but with a difference. Instead of war it was ravaged by a big fire at the end of the 17th century.

More impressive details.

Had we entered the church we would have seen a collection of oriental carpets, and that reminds me of Hagia Sofia (Istanbul, Turkey) with a history of the Byzantine church, mosque and museum. 

More impressive is the Baroque organ, built in the 19th century, with 4,000 pipes – the biggest working organ in the country.

It is also known for its six-ton bronze bell.

There's a lot more to explore, especially the various towers spread across the city each one specialising in storing a particular commodity of a guild.

The merchant houses in market square have dormer windows in their tiled roofs that look like eyes peering out.from the square We have a good view of Tampa mountain the lush greenery of which forms a contrasting  the  white letters spelling out the name of the city, reminiscent of Hollywood. 

Amusing amenity

Our short visit almost at an end we wait at the local bus station just beside a park with inviting red benches. We are in for some amusement. A bus rolls by towing a bike rack. Three cyclists mount their bicycles in a series and strap them to the metal frames. 

A Twist

Had we continued past the Black Church we would have entered the Schei district through a gate. The Bulgarians began settling in the area beginning the 14th century. They were not allowed to settle in the Saxon fortified city. Not only were they allowed entry I to the citadel through a gate only at specific times to sell their goods but also to pay tolls for vending within the walls. As mentioned above they worked on the Black Church. After three centuries they became assimilated and all the former restrictions were 

Stake on Bran Castle, Romania

A foretaste of creepiness 

Our route from Bucharest to Brasau takes us through Transylvania. The Carpathian mountains surround us. The landscape is rustic with rippling rivers, herds of sheep and idyllic villages. Perhaps because of association with the name ‘Transylvania’ ,made famous through Bram Stoker's Dracula  I begin to notice stone buildings and architectural details that seem creepy and haunting.

Intrigue: Bran Castle or Dracula's  Castle?

Yes, we arrive at Bran Castle, marketed as Dracula's castle. Bram Stoker had never been to Romania. He only envisioned the castle. However it does have an uncannily similar setting and features.

The first feature that strikes us is the sheer height in proportion to the base area. It is built at the entrance to a gorge, a natural moat, and therefore the sheer impenetrable stone wall. 

The turrets with steep, sloping roofs and slit windows are intimidating. An equally steep staircase with narrow steps jam-packed with tourists awaits us. It takes us about 20 mins on the steps to reach the stiles at the entrance. With the multitude of people the atmosphere could have been celebratory rather than creepy, but surprisingly it remains chilly thanks to claustrophobic features: doors,passages, stairs(a secret passage) that lead from the first floor to the third, dizzying tight spiral staircases that accommodate only one person at a time, dark nooks just before the doors into the rooms all speak of intrigue.

Highlighting through contrast

The muted grey, and brown colours add a sense of decay and foreboding.As though to enhance the eeriness some color is presented through  blue ceramic tiled stoves, a blue kettle, a bench near the hearth, etc. 

The covered wooden verandas give us a view of the courtyard that seems like a deep well. In fact, it does have a well, or two. Initially meant to provide the needs of the household it was found to be inadequate. It has now been turned into an elevator shaft that takes paid customers into a multimedia museum.

However, there's a wishing well.

From fortress to castle

Built in 1377, this stone fortress was built by the Saxons, of German origin, to guard the mountain pass and defend Transylvania from the Ottoman Empire. It was also used as a customs checkpoint. The real Dracula, 

Vlad Draculea III, never stayed here  but he did pass from Bran gorge at least once to set the outskirts of Brasov aflame  and impale some traders for not paying their taxes but that was it.

Transylvania joined Romania after world war 2. In 1920 the castle was given to Romania’s Queen Marie in memory of the war heroes and it underwent some reconstruction to make it suitable for a noble  family to live in. It became a summer retreat for the royal family. Bran was lived in by the royal family even after Queen Marie's death. Her daughter Princess Ileana lived in it until the communist regime forced her into exile.

Today the fully furnished and renovated castle is a museum.

Feature: a small square of the brick and stone wall is exposed to show how the tall walls were fortified  : wooden boards embedded in the brickwork helped to protect them against distortions , cracking, or risks such as earthquakes.

Then it was time to take in the whole scene from the landscaped gardens at the bottom of the hill. I thought this tree with a hanging artificial swatch of red leaves was particularly metaphoric.  Beyond the pond were umpteen bright yellow bean bags with people sitting in various poses, admiring the castle from its bottom up. Had we stayed longer we would have seen the landmark lit against the twilight.

   

More reminders of a bloody history

As we leave Brasnove we get a good view of Râșnov Citadel, a medieval fortress, considered one of the best-preserved rural citadels in Transylvania and Romania,  high above the hills. Its position afforded a high-altitude viewing post and an early warning system against invading armies. 

 

Peles Castle, Sinaia, Romania

Natural landscape vs progress

We've crossed the Danube from Ruse, Bulgaria into Romania's Transylvania! The land of Dracula!  Traditional houses with shingled roofs, towerlike at the entrance, atop timber walls raised on a stone foundation pass by.

Driving down winding roads along lush greenery, it is easy to understand that 33% of Romania is forest and there's logging. Notably, the country is an important European source for forest products like sawn wood, wood-based panels and furniture, most  of it passing through the Black Sea. It should not be surprising then that there have been issues with illegal logging. 

Sensory introduction to ‘romancing’ Romania

We arrive at the foot of the mountains to an  entrance that  easily distracts with the colourful souvenir stalls and the traditionally dressed women toting large baskets filled with colourful little woven baskets filled with juicy bright red strawberries and the most flawless, freshest cherries I've ever seen. 3 baskets for 10€ seems a steal for parched tongues.

Adding to the celebratory tastes and colours was a wedding group dressed in its traditional finery.

And of course Medieval Castles.

And there appears before us a stunning edifice, Peles Castle, so called because Peles creek flows through its courtyard. Most in our company have bought tickets. They will see the lush furnishings and the lavish decorations on the inside while we admire the outside. The summer retreat, built in 1883, with both Gothic tall vertical elements and thin walls as well as Renaissance decorative classical elements, is inarguably distinctive. A sense of awesomeness is evoked through the kinds of material, viz wood , marble and glass, that are imaginatively incorporated into the architecture.

Interestingly, it was the first European castle to have its own power plant for electricity. Consequently it had hot and cold running water, central heating, telegraph, telephone, a small elevator for the royal family and a central vacuum system. Our friends tell us the stained glass roof of the foyer opens mechanically.

We notice the alpine-like features from the outside while exploring the various landscaped terraces. The marble statues in one of the terraces draw our attention more than any other. Then there is the typical lion guards of the Balkans. The urns seem to  complete the requirements of palace gardens.  Some parts are supported with scaffolding and fountains are under repair. 

The castle is undoubtedly enchanting, but the crumbling parts evoke a sense of the eerie, perhaps because of Bram Stoker.

Yes, we get lost. 

The castle is surrounded by forest with well marked trails. Since we enjoy trails we launched on one with our friends. When we sense it is about time to rejoin our travelling group we hastily look for the way back when we chance upon umpteen souvenir shops with such attractive displays that we get side tracked. We smugly believe we are back at the row of vendors we had seen at the entrance. But we are wrong and it does not take long to realise it. A frantic walk hither and thither till we get our bearings and there we are, the abominable late comers ( but just by a minute, saving our reputation for punctuality).

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