Firth and Brun: Invergordon & Inverness, Scotland

Feeling at home

My love for the English language so artistically used to open up worlds of imagination, creating a better sense of the cultural scene was definitely more than invigorated by our visit to Inverness.

I have been to Sir Walter Scott's residence, now turned into a museum, where I was overwhelmed by his huge collection of books and his armoury. A typical English picnic from a wicker basket, sitting with a Scots friend, close to an old stone bridge on the banks of the River Tweed was an unforgettable experience.

The Frith: portending surprise

Now, after nearly 30 years I am back in this area of Scotland,  gateway to the Highlands, the United Kingdom's northernmost city, on a cruise. We are to dock at Invergordon. But where is the dock? Shrouded in fog it sits right beside one of the several oil rigs about a mile from the shore.  A bridge connects it to the mainland.  We are actually in a deep water inlet called a frith in Scottish and I have come across this word in British poetry. It derives from the Old Norse word fjǫrthr, meaning "fjord".There is a dock closer to the town but other ships are already docked there. We wait for shuttles to negotiate the mile that used to  be a wooden bridge, the Salter Pier, to transport ore to the aluminum smelter.

Impact of tourism on locals 

Most of our fellow passengers have left on excursions to Loch Ness. We are more interested in the countryside than in the elusive monster. Invergordon promises to be very interesting indeed, but Inverness is not far away. We have to take either the bus or the train.There's some speculation that the buses will be too crowded. But we do not know how frequent the train is either. Besides, the bus stop is closer to us than the railway station. It takes a while. The crowd has thinned, opting to take the train instead. I get on the bus that arrives soon enough and find a seat. As the bus pulls off and the idyllic undulating, verdant countryside dotted with lakes passes by, I share an observation with my seat mate. She is a local going to the city for the day. She is very pleasant. I gather that locals do complain when cruise lines are in town and take up the space in the local buses. However the city does increase the frequency during times of high traffic

Inverness library welcomes

The bus terminates in Inverness. The first thing I see is the library, something I can't resist. What an exciting place, with colourful enticing posters and literature displays all capped by cheerful librarians.

Macbeth: I am afraid to think what I have done;

                Look on't again I dare not.

And then it is an easy walk into town. A crenellated castle,on a cliff top, looking very new, beckons. After all, this is Scotland, and there's bound to be some intrigue.  The building we see today was built in 1834.  It has been rebuilt several times. It's believed that  the very first castle was built in the 11th century by King Malcolm III.  Following that another was built in its place in the mid 16th Century. Mary, Queen of Scots, besieged it when the castle governor shut the gates on her, refusing entry, only to have it recaptured in 3 days! And how did she acknowledge the governor's hospitality? By hanging him. And if that rings a bell, yes, it is the story of Macbeth killing King Duncan, his host. I'm excited to be in the castle even though it is the latest version built to accommodate a courthouse. Besides, it is not open  to the public. Why am I excited?  Macbeth is my all time favourite among Shakespeare's plays. 

The Brun

The grounds and the garden are well kept. We get a good view of the city of Inverness. We are looking over the river Ness, a brun, for that is the Scottish word for a small stream or river. The name "Inverness" comes from the Gaelic "Inbhir Nis," meaning "mouth of the River Ness". 

The river is fast-flowing and known for its clear waters, which are an ideal environment for salmon and trout. Islands in the river are connected to the banks with Victorian suspension bridges. 

The value of soot

Back in the town, on Castle St we encounter more historic buildings blackened by decades of soot which actually protect the original stone from decay. One of the buildings is Merchant House.

Adding to the gothic

Walking along the bank of the brun we come across the gothic styled St Mary's church with traceried windows which tempts us to explore its graveyard.

Yet another church, the Old High Church, the oldest Church in Inverness has a strange looking gate in its yard that opens into a square enclosure with a row of columns. It is actually a Mausoleum. The site had once been where Jacobites were imprisoned or executed.

 But not all is gloom

On the other side of the river bank the spires of the Free North Church form an indomitable presence seemingly cleaned of all grime.

And then there is the Town Hall, an example of Victorian Gothic architecture, all cleaned up and majestic.

The market turned arcade

Like most towns, Inverness had an 1870 open-air market subject to the elements. It has since become a covered market to protect traders and customers from the sometimes inclement weather. The red iron work arches highlight the Victorian architecture.

I'm back at the library but it's time to return to Invergordon. Why not take the train this time? A good decision.

The walls speak

This town has murals everywhere, mostly depicting war themes. There is a total of 11 murals representing the cultural heritage derived from being in a strategic position for historic naval matters and as a gateway to the Highlands. The residential areas exude a cultural charm. 

Near the pier is Natal Gardens commemorating the HMS Natal that sank in 1915. The garden is aesthetically appealing. The  neatness the says much of the gardeners, efforts.

Kailua-Kona, Hawaii: volcano, coffee and IRONMAN

Kona: Coffee or town? Which town?

Our liner anchors off the coast of Hawaii Island/ Big Island, 51% of the landmass of which is taken up by five volcanoes of which Mauna Loa is not only the largest but also one of the world's most active volcanoes. There is no smoke or tremor as we arrive. Our cruise ship wouldn't be here if it was a threat for now.

We are on the leeward side of the island,i.e. on the west coast at a town called Kailua-Kona. Every Hawaiian island has a Kona for it is the Hawaiian word for leeward. It's perfect for a safe tender transfer from the ship to the pier. From the liner our tender sails smoothly towards the pier offering views of the coastline, graced with palm trees against the green mountains in the near distance.The gentle waves of the vibrant blue sea is perfect for kayakers. A heaven for ocean enthusiasts. Not a sign of wrenching on board as it sometimes happens in rough seas.

Engulfed in tropical flora and ocean sounds

The pier is right in the town which happens to be the historic Kailua village. Our sea legs steady themselves on the land. Our senses are heightened to the sounds, smells and sights. The wandering begins. Within a few meters is a distinctive stone tower and wooden boardwalk. We are in the Kona Inn Shopping Village, a historic village. Built from the original Kona Inn, the buildings have an unmistakable colonial look with stone facades and heavy wooden doors. The Hawaiian charm is alive and well in the open air facility in spite of the modernity.

A palm tree on the water?

We stroll along Alii Drive along the shore. A small hut, replete with a palm tree, sitting on a floating platform, draws our attention. It doesn't look like a home for it has a wind turbine and several small watercraft in the likes of mini-submarines or pedal boats, lined up at the edge. It is an island base to enjoy water activities like snorkeling, water sports, etc. 

The shoreline has a mix of white sand, strewn with bits of coral, and dark lava stones. A slim white lighthouse appears above the trees in the far distance accentuating the idyllic atmosphere. 

And then a zebra dove, calmly watching us, with a slight turn of its head, extending its hospitality!

Spirituality and peace in the atmosphere

A few minutes away stands the spire of the oldest Catholic Church (Mokuaikaua Church) in the Hawaiian Islands. Damage from earthquakes have resulted in replacement of the old buildings. What we see today has Polynesian carvings. The huge sliding windows let in ocean breezes that gently brush our cheeks and ruffle hair. How uplifting and peaceful to be sitting in there in the arms of nature! The landscaped grounds aptly add to the aura.

Sanctity strictly protected

A sign tells us we are at the Haleokane (House of God). The grounds and pond are designated as sacred and hence strictly no trespassing. So too are drinking alcoholic beverages, smoking, and the use of illegal drugs prohibited on the premises.

Another sign indicates a burial site that is also sanctified and protected by local laws. The little landscaped plot of land, under the shade of an arbour,  marked out by rocks . Traditionally the washed bones of the dead are wrapped carefully and buried under the rocks.

Yet another sign  indicates  an imu, which is a traditional Hawaiian pit dug into the ground that uses heated volcanic rocks to slow cook (in trapped steam) large quantities of meat or root vegetables wrapped in banana leaves. (We had a taste of it in Samoa which I will write about in another post.)

History through landmarks

We pass by  Huliheʻe Palace, a former vacation home for Hawaiian royalty in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. Built in 1838, the palace is now a museum showcasing Victorian artifacts and royal regalia from the era of King Kalākaua and Queen Kapiʻolani. Built of rubble lava rock and furnished with wooden furniture, it features a mixed architectural style, Georgian and traditional, adapting to the local climate. 

We felt that we could learn about Hawaii's history from other sources better than visiting the six rooms for what we believe is a hefty fee.

Huge trees in the vicinity provide the much-appreciated shade.

Too many for our liking

Within a few minutes  we are in yet another commercial hub which doesn't look like one from afar. It is  the Coconut Grove Marketplace. look out for falling coconuts for these trees are everywhere! The area is made up of multiple retailers and restaurants. We are not really impressed by the multiple retailers and restaurants. Most of all we want to steer clear of what we perceive to be unsavoury characters and too many retailers to choose from even to windowshop.

Naive? Lost your bearings? Coffee?

Why not wait at the bench outside Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. Restaurant so invitingly close to us? The theme of the restaurant is based on Forest Gump, the movie.  Hence the replica of the seat upon which Forest Gump sat on when he famously said, ” I am Forrest, Forrest Gump. . .”

Perhaps we should be sipping a cup of the world renowned robust Kona coffee

Ah! So, that's what's going on

There are so many people gathered in one particular area that we suspect we are in the midst of an event. There are banners, sales of bicycles and surf boards as well as all the equipment and accessories required for cycling and ocean sports. As we walk towards the pier we pick up on what is going on.

The Kailua Pier which was once the centre of transportation and shipping now serves as a gathering place for ocean activities. It is the starting and finishing point for the IRONMAN World Championship which is due in a few days. Competitors (up to 1,700) are gearing up. Enthusiasts have come in droves.

Hence the festive atmosphere created by organic energy building anticipation whether participant or spectator.  

Run, swim, cycle,catch, drink, and be merry 

Bleachers have been set up for spectators. A marker near the pier indicates another major annual event, the international Billfish Tournament. And then there is a series of banners of people who have probably won the races. I suppose there is no starting or ending point for the annual Kona Coffee Festival which is Hawaii's oldest food festival! 

All said and done, the weather, the history and the celebratory atmosphere do leave us with a feeling that this is a happening and happy place.

Suva, Fiji: Vibrantly multi-ethnic

Bula Melaya: A Polynesian welcome at the capital city of Suva.

Our cruise liner is welcomed by a local band. I'm sentimentally captivated by the song because I recognise the word Melaya, the country in which I was born and raised. To this day I do not know if the word really refers to the country. Another troupe gives us a send-off performance on the pier later that evening.

What an array! Suva Municipal Market

The local market is usually a good representation of the social and cultural make up of a country.  Entering the market more than confirms what little we knew about Fiji, especially that it is multi ethnic and has a large Indian population (⅖ of the total). The ground floor with vendors selling almost every household good imaginable is manned by Polynesians, Chinese, Indians and Fijians speaking the various dialects. 

Vibrant colours and flavours titillate. There's bundles and bundles of taro root, Indian spices, shellfish, mountains of pineapple, etc. To cap it all, some stalls closer to the bus station sell Indian deserts. It is even more evocative for us since it is close to Deepavali, a festival of lights celebrated by Hindus all over the world.

We skip the Curio & Handicraft Centre and the more modern Flea Market which would have been interesting had we not wanted to spend more time exploring the rest of Suva.

The Royal walk: Presidential Palace

We walk by the Presidential Palace (Government House)which is guarded at the gates by a fierce looking Fijian soldier attired in a starched white sulu(a buckled wrap around)  and a red tunic. Apparently, the changing of the guards happens only once a month. Not our day.

A vivified tree 

We are now walking near a tree towards Thurston Park ( Suva Botanical Gardens). About 200 meters from where the sentry stands we are stopped in our tracks by a strange odor, a chatter and a flapping. Lo and behold, we are right under a large colony of flying foxes(fruit bats) roosting upside down! What could be more apt than wild life in the natural gardens! The walk along the park’s trails and manicured lawns brings us very close to the natural beauty of the island’s native flora, including tropical trees, palms, ferns, colorful gingers and water lilies. There is also a pavilion and a clock tower, a historic landmark of the Victorian era.

One of the amenities of the gardens, the drinking fountain, had been  presented by Henry Marks for the use of the public visiting these gardens 1914.

Unmistakably British: Administration and recreation

Parliament House and other government buildings are fronted by Albert Park, named after Queen Victoria's consort. The land on which these stand has a very interesting history. It was a swamp dotted with shacks well known for prostitution. It has been transformed into a general recreational park with a cricket ground and tennis courts.

Incredible but true: insane but safe.

Albert Park is most renowned for a 1928 dare devil landing by Charles Kingsford Smith (the first to fly across the Pacific). He took off from Hawaii with the necessary personnel for radio contact and navigation in his plane, the Southern Cross. He had not an inkling about the area in Suva where he proposed to land. It was precisely where stood a row of sturdy trees right in the  middle of Albert Park.  

If not for the radio station manager who persisted, in spite of the opposing authorities, that the governor allow the felling of the said trees and level the land with rocks and sand to create a safe landing strip, the landing would have been disastrous. Even telephone poles had to be lowered and more trees cut to ensure a safe landing of the Southern Cross. Incredibly the plane had no breaks. It was almost at the end of the hastily made strip. It had to be turned around at a right angle to bring it to a stop.

A refuge

One of the coolest places to be on a hot day is definitely a cathedral.

The Sacred Heart Cathedral aka the Cathedral of Suva, is Fiji’s most prominent  Roman Catholic building. It took 40 years to build. The grand neo-Gothic design incorporates Australian sandstone blocks, concrete staircases and balustrades, and two towers. On the central stained-glass window above the altar is an image of a bilo (coconut shell cup used in local rituals) beneath the Sacred Heart of Jesus.  

The spires of a Hindu temple beckon

As we walk the streets we spy a Hindu temple with its domes and spires peeking above the foliage on a hill. It seems to be just outside of town. We walk in the general direction of the temple to explore but we find our way blocked in every direction.  But on one of the inner roads we come across a print shop run by Indians. We have a lovely chat with them. They tell us the temple is not easily approachable by foot. We abandon the idea

Getting local

We decide to see more of the town by taking a town bus. This takes through some of the arterial roads and quieter ones.

We pass by the government to buildings and the various parks. Most of the land along the coast had been reclaimed. But some buildings like Carnegie Library were built in 1909 on an existing waterfront site. As the name says it, Andrew Carnegie's philanthropy made the public library possible. The building is now called Suva City Carnegie Library.

We also drive by the old Town Hall, distinguished by its balconies and ornate ironwork which exemplifies colonial architecture. Most of the private homes and commercial buildings also exhibit the same traditional architectural style, specifically a traditional-style with a two-story veranda and arches that befits a warm tropical climate. Some older commercial buildings in the city also  feature covered walkways and upper-level verandas.

Victoria Parade

We are back at the esplanade along Victoria Parade most of it on reclaimed land retained by a sea wall. Originally an unpaved street with only a row of raintrees between it and the shore. As the sea receded more and more land was reclaimed. 

We meet an ethnic  taxi driver taking a break from work. We exchange a few pleasantries and then enjoy the breeze. 

An urban environment with modern and older buildings

As the sun begins to set we walk back to the city centre. We find ourselves at Terry Walk in a canal area. On one side the building's veranda space has a whole series of arcs and pillars that make it look like the verandahs surrounding a middle eastern Palace. It  is a pedestrian walkway alongside a canal, next to the TappooCity shopping complex. The walk features tropical landscaping, including various flowering plants and palm trees. The malls and commercial centres have taken on a festive atmosphere with music and decorations looking forward to the Festival of Lights.

Suva may have become a modern city, but its uniqueness in the old coexisting with the new, the amount of land reclaimed and its seemingly comfortable cosmopolitanism has us endeared to it.

Dravuni island, Fiji: Population 125

Who would have thought?

Cruises take us to places we wouldn't have thought of in our wildest dreams, especially in remote and inaccessible parts of the world that would require special effort and a rather undaunting adventurous spirit to travel to. We are in the Kadavu Island group of Fiji.

A huge ship at a teensy weensy island 

Here we are on Dravuni Island. We have to tender from the ship. We step onto a pontoon and sway into the island's beautiful and welcoming quaint village.This volcanic island is only two km long and 0.5 km wide. The population of the island is less than two hundred. The cruise passengers are 5 times that. Gladly, the various cruise visits have not corrupted the indigenous culture.  We definitely must ensure that we are not in any way a threat to the natural environment. 

Not your typical tourist destination

There are no paved roads into the interior. There are no ATMs. The village has a school where donations of stationery and books are not accepted. There is no power grid. I want to believe every penny made from tourism goes into conservation.

The summit: take a deep breath. . .

We find a trail that leads us between shady trees, small vegetable gardens, pig pens,etc. All very rustic. Then there is a hike uphill which is gentle enough for me. DrInk chooses to nap along the beach while I join umpteen others, including an 80 year old with a trekking pole. As we climb higher the trees are sparse and the slope much steeper. Even the bushes on our trail seem frail. A few of us are attracted to strange looking wild flowers.There are no easy footholds as we near the summit. I huff and puff! I clamber and crawl the rocks that are naturally far and few between.. 

. . .before a breathtaking view 

Once at the summit we are wowed by stunning views of the clear waters, surrounding the island, in shades of turquoise, blues and greens. Snorkellers would have revelled in the coral reefs.

It wouldn't be hard to imagine what the local sun set would look like– the oranges and purples all bringing forth an aura of tranquility.

 

Non chalance

The villagers are friendly even as they contentedly go about their chores. 

Locals ply us with home-cooked meals, crafts and coconuts for a nominal price. We gladly sip and savour young coconut sitting under the swaying  trees and then along the sandy beach. 

Other tourists have sailed to the outlying islands and reefs.

What is it like 10 years hence?

Does it remain unspoiled? Our trip was 10 years ago. The island may have modern facilities now. I hope Fiji has found a way of bettering the lives of the villages without blemishing its unique characteristic.

Slaying the dragon: Komodo island, Indonesia

The prelude

October 31st. We are on a cruise line. It is a sea day. A pumpkin carving competition took place with much aplomb in the morning. The evening dinner has the Halloween theme with guests outdoing each other with their costumes and face painting. Gruesome or not, all in all, it was a fun day! 

The warm up

The morning of Nov 1st we anchor at the Komodo islands. In my childhood I had read about komodo dragons and seen pictures in Life Magazine of beaches teeming with these creatures. I can't wait to see them. I do not feel intimidated because I would be in a group tour with forest rangers guiding us.  As we are tendering towards the shore I expect to see lots of these fearsome creatures but I see only one slinking away into the mangrove. The beautiful sandy beaches are bare of beach lovers. Little boats float in the near distance waiting to take other adventurous tourists to the various islands in the archipelago.

Real life encounter

We meet our guide who runs us through the dos and don'ts. There are several rangers around us. Some of them wield sturdy forked sticks. They are armed, albeit with a harmless defensive weapon. As we leave the platform and start walking the trail I spy a giant-sized lizard gingerly moving its bulk  underneath the building raised on stilts. We steer clear of the beast, of course. Who would want to invite a bite that is highly venomous?

We are walking through a dry forest. The landscape of trunks and rocks and dirtpaths are all the colours of the lizards. Wonderful camouflage.  These reptiles climb trees too.The wild orchids and fruit trees draw our eyes but it will not do to be distracted. I should neither lose sight of the park rangers nor take their instructions lightly. After all, this island has the world's largest population of komodo dragons in their natural habitat.

When a ranger stops to illustrate the characteristics of a plant, tree, flower or fruit I become the go-to interpreter for I speak the local language.

No dragons to slay: thanks to the guides

We arrive at a large group of the 3 meter long Komodo dragons. Monitored by the rangers we stand all around these reptiles in their various poses and their activities. The rangers are monitoring their activities closely. Then we are safely shepherded back to the pier where the cursory souvenir shops are. There might be more komodos under those raised structures too. However, they are no threat as long as they are not famished. I did see a cow in the woods. Was it domesticated, or was it bait?

As we leave the island we get a glimpse of coral pink beaches and the rugged landscapes of the volcanic islands.

Can the scary monster be defeated? The following website tells you more:

https://komododiscoverytour.com/the-animal-that-can-defeat-komodo-dragons/

Cockburn, Grand Turk and Caicos: salt, conches and banks

In Search of . . .

Cruising the Caribbean and the West Indies we dock at the cruise centre at Cockburn, on the island of Grand Turk, one of the islands forming the Turks and Caicos Archipelago, a British overseas territory. Most of the guests on board are ecstatic to be spending another day on the beach and snorkelling. We are simply walking off the pier, get a simple map at the  cruise centre and then decide the direction in which we would explore the town.

What attracts the guests most?

Blue skies,warm sparkling water, deck chairs around inviting pools in resorts and the variety of restaurants and souvenir shops  

The town has all the characteristics of a tropical climate. The sun is beginning to get intense. There's little shade along the beach front where only hardy tall coconut trees sway. Along the road are other palms that are pruned to look like giant pineapples. We do not see a side walk. The town is 5 km from the cruise centre and we would like to visit the library in its heart (something we do in most ports), not only because of my love of libraries but also because the librarian is always approachable and has answers to our questions either through personal knowledge or through  brochures. Also, in the days of yore when we travelled without data (i.e. about 10 years ago) most libraries in big cities had free Wifi!  

Engineered salt pans

When in port for the day we find it best to go to the further reaches of the port and then make our way back well before the ship leaves, or in smaller ports return for lunch and venture out again if it is not too hot.

We find that the residential area is further than 5 km. The historic light house is too exhausting a trip according to the distance on the map. Public transport just for that is out of the question. So we simply turn right and,lo and behold, we are at a vast, arid and hot barren land with something like an oasis in the  centre. A road leads to it. We walk up to the huge sign board that tells us we are at Town Pond Salinas.This used to be a saline lake which was channeled into a series of leveed man made evaporation ponds, water being being moved from one pond to the next as it evaporates into different stages of salinity becoming increasingly concentrated until salt crystals formed. The salt ponds extend to the Red Salinas closer to the  cruise pier.

A little bit of history: no need for a pinch of salt

According to the Britannica settlers from Bermuda arrived and established the salt industry. That is why the town of Cockburn  is named after Sir Francis Cockburn, who was Governor of the Bahamas in the early 19th century.  Historically, it is older than most European settlements in the Caribbean. In fact, the town is older than Kingston, the capital of Jamaica.. 

Production of salt was the mainstay of the islands’ economy, but it became unprofitable in the late 19 hundreds.

Now the economy is highly dependant on tourism and offshore financial services.Sea food export is the islands' third top economic activity. It includes export of conch and lobster.

As we make our way back to the city centre we browse the local craft shops along the seafront filled with island inspired artwork on wraps and scarves, and also shell craft. 

Mahogany and money

Then it's time to amble along the scenic Front Street along the beach front. Mercifully there are spots of shade under mahogany trees that are part of landscaping in the  iconic colonial buildings ( Bermudian style)housing the likes of the Victoria Library and the Turks and Caicos National Museum. The librarian, as expected, is cheerful, welcoming and informative,

We return to our liner for lunch before the scorching heat tires us out too much. We will definitely be served a local seafood dish for dinner.

Trivia, thanks to the librarian:

In 1962, Grand Turk was the first dry land that American astronaut John Glenn stepped foot on after orbiting Earth.

The name of the territory:

Turks" probably refers to either Turk's Head Cactus, or to the pirates who hid in the islands.

"Caicos" is from the" Caribbean term "caya hico," that translates to "string of islands". 

Ocho Rios, Jamaica: the mark of James Bond and Hurricane Melissa

Ocho Rios,Jamaica, is now making the news since the havoc caused by Hurricane Melissa.

We were in the cruise port in 2012. 

The walk of fame.

The walk from the port to the town is an easy jaunt. The weather is tropical. The coconut trees sway. Before we reach the town centre we walk towards Reynolds pier to walk over turquoise blue waters. Surprise, surprise! This is where Dr No ( a James Bond movie) was filmed! Even more Interesting, many of Ian Fleming's novels were written in his home just outside of town.

Noel Coward  also lived in the vicinity.

Mixed impressions.

Nearing the town centre we see a Taj Mahal-like building. No marble here. Just concrete. Painted White and green. Just a shopping centre filled with jewellery and duty free shops. We are not in the least attracted by it. More attractive are the art and craft markets both outdoor and indoors with reggae music in the background. The best thing is we are not harassed by touts. 

Mum and dad approach

All of a sudden pedestrian activity and vehicle movements become a little chaotic. School children are pouring out from every which direction. They are dressed in pinnafores and ties, very British like except that they take on the earthy colours of yellow and brown. The official language is English but Creole is widely spoken.

Some of the young ones address us as daddy and mummy while thrusting out their hands. They ask for money. We are a little unnerved by the experience. Calling males daddy and females mummy is local patois.

Somehow we are able to evade their approaches as we reach what looks like a sunken village with a stream and a pond. It is surrounded by ad hoc dwellings. This must be what remains of the fishing village that has now dramatically developed into a cruise port and a holiday destination.

Are we in British Colonial Asia?

We decide to walk to the hilly residential area that we had noticed as we entered the harbour. It is humid and we sweat up and down the undulating paths lined with houses, surrounded by mango, banana and morainga trees. Also hibiscus and bougainvillea. The building style and lush foliage is akin to that in Malaysia.

A final view

From up here we have a view of the pristine beaches ,brilliant blue waters and white sands of the many bays, including James Bond Bay where we are docked.

A doubt cleared

Are there really 8 rivers, for Ocho Rios is Spanish for eight rivers? no, there's only two. It seems it is a British mispronunciation of another Spanish word Las Chorreras,which means  "the waterfalls". Of course there is a reason for this name.  A short drive from Ocho Rios is the famous Dunn's  River Falls. It is an iconic attraction for the multilevelled cascades which we chose not to visit. 

We leave behind a port that has a bay, a trail, and an airport named after the secret agent.

We hope residents are resilient and are able to pick their lives almost totally destroyed by hurricane Melissa.

Dumbstruck by an ancient culture: Cozumel Island, Mexico

Another Caribbean island noted for its beach

The only reason we are here is that we are on a Caribbean cruise. So we arrive at Cozumel with no expectations. The only thing we know is that it is a tiny island off the Yucatan peninsula, Mexico.The name Cozumel was derived from the Mayan "Cuzamil" (also spelled "Cutzmil") or "Ah Cuzamil Peten" in full, which means "the island of swallows" (Spanish: Isla de las Golondrinas). The name evokes a sense of cosiness. The fact that it is in the Caribbean means that, like most other islands in the area, it is known for its beaches, vibrant nightlife, etc. 

Following instincts

On arrival at Puente Langosta, most of the guests rush off either to the beaches or for snorkeling and diving experiences. We have a hearty breakfast to fuel ourselves for whatever else the port has to offer. We walk along the pier apron towards the exit from the Port into the town of San Miguel de Cozumel. Waiting for passengers are rickshaws and taxis. Jeep buggies filled with young party goers whiz by. Cozumel certainly has a roaring tourist business.

Friendly service: My name is Rahul

We know that the island has Mayan ruins because a friendly rotund taxi driver has hailed us with his offer. He is so cheerful and pleasant that we take to him immediately. He declares, “ My name is Raol. You know, like Rahul Gandhi?”  We share a few more snippets that's beyond my recall now!

He explains the island is 28 miles long and 11 miles wide. The coastline of the Southern half of the island has one main ring road. The northern tip of the island is inaccessible because it is covered with dense coastal vegetation. The official language in Mexico is Spanish, however, it is generally possible to communicate with locals in English. Local currency is the Peso but the USD is greatly appreciated.

Pummeled into a new natural seascape

We arrive at a beach that is more rocky than sandy. There are a few tropical trees that seem sculptured into fantastical shapes. Why the atmospheric scene? About 7 years before our visit  Hurricane Emily and then the category 5 Hurricane Wilma passed the Southern coast of Cozumel causing extensive damage to the island from which it is still trying to recover. Cell phone towers, power lines and trees were whipped down. Cars and piers floated away. Houses and roads were damaged. It also caused some damage to the coral reefs.

At the sea side restaurant stands a hefty bull all saddled up. We associate Spain with bulls but in Mexico? Apparently the idea of the bull is not Mayan but something that got included in the island’s local carnival. Now you can take a ride on it for a fee. 

Don't you forget the local animals

As we wind our way along the road towards the Mayan ruins of San Gervasio our driver points at something we pass by. “Did you see that?” , he asks excitedly. I saw only a gray rock, with a fallen tree across it,by a pool, But believing that it must have been something  significant I take a quick shot hoping to see what exactly I had missed. I identified the reptile beautifully camouflaged against a rock ! A crocodile!

Shudders at San Gervasio World Heritage Site

As we enter the ruins we see an iguana in a relaxed posture right in front  of one of the Mayan structures with a few columns and windows. We tend to rush past for we are afraid the relaxed posture might turn into an alert one leading to a pounce.

A little calmer now we are able to take in the surroundings. Ancient paved roads now restored seem to lead into mysterious nooks and corners. From the plaza we walk in the steps of ancient Mayans through a clearing, skipping over and around ancient gnarled roots to a rather strange looking pool surrounded by well layered rocks. We are staring down a cenote. It is a ceremonial sinkhole/natural pit/underground water-filled cavern.There is no guessing what stepping into one would lead to. But for the Mayans it was a crucial  source of fresh water for their rituals and ceremonies. More than that, it was the gateway to the underworld! So it was symbolic of  life and death. I shudder when I imagine the offerings thrown into it: material and human.

Pilgrim center

 Little House is on a side path. An altar occupies  the centre and therefore probably was used for ceremonies.

Yes, Big House next. That building has more to show.it still has the original grass roof and wall murals.

The more the discovery the more the  willies 

And then there is the Tall House,  the central building on a raised platform. It has a pyramid-like structure. Before falling into ruin it had had human faces carved into the steps. Was it a temple dedicated to Ixchel, the goddess of fertility? Many statues were found here. Mayan women from the mainland made a pilgrimage to the island's deity at least once in their lifetime. 

Archeologists found a vaulted tomb in its interior Since the structure is like a platform occupied by only an altar and benches on the top, it is surmised that the structure was used for open air ceremonies in which not only the priests participated, but also a large assembly in the plaza. 

A time to pause and reflect on the passage of time

A culture that spanned 15 centuries starting at 100 BC. Look at how the stones still stand. Imagine what life was like. Imagine the ingenuity and the scale of these structures. Imagine a deep rooted civilization that is slowly giving way to progress. We are humbled by  the fact that 1000s of years ago someone who had a family, who lived, loved, celebrated, mourned, built, farmed lived right here

And just like that we are back in the 21st century.  take a walk along the souvenir stores. From an over bridge we get to see the ubiquitous Light House as well as the main thoroughfare. We wade through the crowds at Monkey Bay resort laid out with blue deck chairs before we call it a day.

Roatan island, Honduras: Paradise Lost to us

Once a dangerous port

As our liner enters the dock at Mahogany we get a glimpse of a ship wreck. We should not be surprised since we are at the largest island in Honduras which is well known for its being in the periphery of the hurricane region. It seldom gets direct hits from the winds for they cross over other landmasses and islands before reaching Roatan.However,The tail end of the hurricanes do bring about periods of high winds and rains. It would have been riskier had we tendered in or come during the rainy season and had one of the big names in cruise liners, Carnival Corporation, not built the port which is for the most part operated by them, making it a popular spot for cruise ships visiting the western Caribbean. 

Avoiding the popular thrills for real life

Roatan is famed for its tropical weather coral reefs, eco-adventures in lush jungles and its beaches. And, hear this. It's known for its sloths! Not being sloths and since we are and not interested in diving or tanning on the beaches we do what we do best. From the cruise centre it is a short walk to the city centre. It is a rainy day.

We are obviously in the centre of the town for we are  at City Hall, in the capital town of Coxen Hole, its name in Spanish right about the entrance, for that is the first language of the 3 Bay Islands, one of which is Roatan. Spanish is the official language. We talk to a well built male who exits city hall and has a few minutes to spare. He is a school teacher. He apologises for the weather that has made it inconvenient for us to explore the town. He tells us that almost everybody speaks English.

And then there is an international bank and a church with beautiful stained glass windows.

Where's the energy and the vibes?

Granted, it's a rainy day. But people are going about the daily chores. The shops are open. We notice that the houses built closer to the shore are on stilts. A walk around the town leads us to a bust. I still haven't got the details about it. Still searching. A kind of war memorial. Then there is the children's playground abandoned on this wet day. Nice photo opportunity  sitting on the hawksbill sea turtles.

Did we miss something?

As we get back to the cruise centre we see young mangrove shoots planted to protect the shore line from erosion and also to protect marine life. We didn't even think of walking over to the beach which is not far off. Its silky sands are not tempting enough. 

Had we gone perhaps we might have come face to face with  the likes of Richard Gere, Michael Douglas, and Cameron Diaz who frequent the island.

Story book and history

We are back at the cruise centre where we come face to face with a pirate instead. Not scary enough for it is after all a figure of a green parrot with a hooked nose, one set of talons gone, donning  a pirate's hat, apparently squawking for attention. Reminds me of Captain James  Cook of Peter Pan. Just next to is a pair of walk in boots. I'm certainly too small for the boots. And I do not belong in the pirate themed bar for I'm a teetotaller!

And then there's a large statue that could be a replica of a Mayan artifact with a detailed headdress and ceremonial robes? But roatan has a pre Colombian history. The inhabitants traded with the Mayan and hence . . . How do they tie up?There's a lot more to learn there!

Could we have done more?

The island is small and there appears to be a local bus station that plies  the outskirts of Roatan. It would have been interesting to take those buses if anyone had been sure of a schedule for it will never do to miss the boat.

Hosur : LIttle England in India

First impressions

We fly to Bangalore for a short trip to spend a few days in Hosur. We land at the airport in Bangalore. Since it is very late at night we only get some idea that it is a huge and beautiful airport with the officers doing credit to their jobs, being obliging and respectful. We have a booked taxi waiting for us outside the airport. Even with directions here and there we still have to check with airport staff now and then. It is a maze that takes us to the open air leaving us to the elements,and then a narrow walkway that thankfully leads to a lift that will take us to the basement with several sections marked with alphabets. We manage to connect with the driver on his phone and wait for him to pick us up at the designated area. He is very friendly. He speaks English. 

Driver knows best

Bangalore is the Silicon Valley of India. It is the capital of the state of Karnataka. We start off on our long drive to Hosur which is in the state of Tamil Nadu. The road leading out of the airport is a world class tolled highway. But once we get close to the city centre we go through the city instead of taking a shorter and less congested route. Why? There has been criminal activity along that stretch. The driver does not want to take a risk at that time of day when help could be far away and so we pass by some familiar buildings like the Vidhana Soudha almost at snail's pace for even at about 11 pm there is a traffic jam. The city sparkles with lights. All the signs are in Kannada (the local language) and English. And then  the signs change to Tamil/English. We have crossed the border into Tamil Nadu. We have left the frenzy and the neon lights behind us and entered a calmer and fresher atmosphere. We pass by several huge industrial buildings. The  distance of 73 km that should have taken us 1 1/2 hrs takes us nearly 3 hours. 

What's in the moniker?

We are visiting Hosur not only because we have family here but also because we like the outskirts of the city for the fresh air from the hills and the dense forests where elephants roam and rivers flow.  With the area's hills, cliffs and the valleys the climate is very cool and pleasant. The cold and cloudy weather resembles that of England. Hence, during the British regime it was referred to as  'Little England'. 

Thanks to the fertile land and good access to fresh water a variety of fruits and vegetables thrive. A walk through the smaller residential areas means coming across fields of tomatoes, cabbages, cauliflower, onions, mangoes, capsicum, carrot, cucumber, beans, coriander leaves, turnips and radishes. Roses are also grown in large numbers. In fact very early in the morning the main thoroughfare is filled with flower vendors with their baskets full of garlands and strung flowers.

The river flowing nearby becomes our favorite spot. Even though the river is said to be highly polluted, and getting to the bank means negotiating through overgrowth and slippery slopes the river and its rocky outcrops offer us fresh air and serenity. Sometimes cattle are given a good scrub in the river and then left to graze in the vicinity. 

An experience 

Our kin encourage us to accompany them to a Thithi Ceremony where food is offered to the departed so that the descendants would be blessed. It would be near running water for the food offering specially prepared for the ceremony has to be let go in it after a priest performs the rituals. We are at the foothill of Dhakshina Tiruppathi temple. The river is fast flowing. Today is the day of offerings and so it is crowded but not as dirty as we expected. We spend the time sitting on the rocks by the bank brushed by the breeze and soothed by the sounds of the river rushing over and around obstacles.

Tribal village schools

We also visit a Tribal village school in one of the several adjacent hills. What a roller coaster ride it was.The children speak Kannada, the language spoken in Karnataka, even though they live in TamilNadu where Tamil is spoken. It is all a matter of history and political changes. They have a smattering of English. The school graciously allows me to teach them a tongue twister after their regular teacher explains to them what the words mean. The older children are excited to repeat “ red lorry, yellow lorry”. They take it all very seriously.

A fast growing city

Hosur is well known in India as a satellite town of Bangalore. Bangalore is an expensive city to live in. It makes sense for young recruits to live in Hosur and then take the shuttle services to and from their workplace in Bangalore. Hence Hosur town has grown in leaps and bounds. 

It is also known for its concentration of manufacturing industries like Tanishq, Tata, Titan, Ashok Leyland, International Aerospace Manufacturing, etc mainly due to its strategic location, infrastructure and government  policies. 

Stunning is all I can say

We leave for the airport 5 hours early to negotiate nasty traffic snarls. Besides, a local overhead bridge is slightly dislodged. Luckily for us only trucks have to make a detour into the city. But when we meet at the other side there is a bottle neck. Going to or from the airport requires at least half a day!

But what a relief to arrive at the terminal where natural materials and sustainability predominate the architecture. The washrooms are being diligently and meticulously cleaned by pleasant employees. They are delighted by our appreciation of their usually thankless job.

 

Notoriety

These are the very forests that were the haunts and then the refuge of the contentiously infamous Santhanakattai Veerappan till he was caught in a major police operation.

Pulsating melting pot: Bucharest, Romania

Herculean grandeur 

Our tour leader drops us at a vast square in the capital city of Romania. Awaiting us is a rotund, cheerful guide. All around us are imposing buildings both in terms of varied architectural details and in terms of size, some being humongous. We have started at Revolution Square and we'll be strolling along Calea Victoriei. The building that looks austere and dignified because of its blackened domes is befitting of the central University library designed by a Frenchman. Glittering just nearby is a glass paneled dome crowning the Romanian state bank. 

The transformation: a gateway to the past

Opposite is the National Museum of Romanian History. Like all the Balkan countries we visited, Romania's history is no less colourful having been ruled or influenced by Ottomans, Germans and Communism. Some ruins are preserved in the original site with horizontal glass panels protecting  them from the ravages of the weather, and from human hands.

Next comes the building that dominates the square with its massive white facade and imposing, majestic tall columns. It is none other than the Royal Palace (built over the ruins of a monastery) which no longer houses monarchs but now showcases the rich art of the region in an opulent interior. It is called the National Museum of Art of Romania.

Resilience: Communism thwarted

Before it stands a unique sculpture: a white spire poking through a black pebble shaped rock. A close look reveals that the spire is made of white marble, and the rock is a metal ring.. It is called the Memorial of Rebirth: The white represents the Romanians and the black the Communistic era that stifled the country. Hence it represents the resilience of Romania, of a people who will always fight for their freedom. 

Centre of Learning and culture

Where learning takes place rebellion seems to follow. We are now walking by university buildings. It is from here that we get a glimpse of an iconic building. It is the Roman Athenaeum. Its architecture stands as a symbol of Romanian culture.  The majestic concert hall's  grand dome and neoclassical design symbolize the city’s artistic spirit. It boasts of having hosted some of the world’s biggest musical names 

Iconic surprises

We walk along a tree lined avenue in the University area towards Lipscani, the historic district in Bucharest known for its cobblestoned streets, even more historic buildings, and a vibrant atmosphere generated by various shops, cafes, and restaurants.  One of the cafés proudly displays Ganesha, the iconic Hindu Elephant God. 

Am I hallucinating?

Integrating the new into the old. 

A striking image makes us stop in our tracks. The architecture of the said building cleverly combines a historic facade (of the ex-secret police headquarters) with a modern glass structure atop. Not surprisingly it was built by an architecture company and it appropriately houses the Union of Romanian Architects. What a creative way to integrate the new building into the preserved facade of the old.

Tucked snugly away from despotic eyes

We are still not far from the huge palace turned into a museum. Next to it is a red brick church with a porch. One of the oldest in Bucharest, it incorporates Byzantine, Oriental and Western architectural elements. It is said to have retained some of the original frescoes after suffering damage from the 1989 revolution.

Quick, hide the churches! 

Why?  The communist era did not favour religion. Worshippers had to be creative to be able to continue their practices and prevent the demolition of the places of prayer. The answer lay in building huge complexes around the churches dwarfing them enough to thwart destructive eyes. 

A respite from the heat

All of a sudden our guide turns into what seems like an arcade similar to those found in Japanese cities but lined with very different and colourful establishments that are mostly cafes and restaurants. The whole pedestrian only street is covered with a glow from the yellow glass( fashionable in Europe during the 19th century tury) roof. There is a quiet dignity about it all.

The passage connects the old town  to Victoria Avenue.

More hidden churches.

We take a different route back to the old quarter and simply amble about. We discover Stravolopolis monastery,  an 18th-century Eastern Orthodox monastery known for its architectural style, which blends Renaissance, Byzantine, Ottoman, and Baroque. “Stavropoleos," in Greek means "City of the Cross".  We are able to have a closer look at the stunning hand-painted frescoes and ornate wood carvings as well as a peaceful courtyard. 

The monastery is known for its Byzantine music choir. It is also known for the largest collection of music books( 8000 ancient volumes) in Romania., 

Next we come across the Church of the Goldsmiths. The golden spire of this Orthodox Church was built by the goldsmiths. The white walls, red brick accents, a central large dome and four smaller domes looks like it belongs in a fairytale.

A few steps away is the stunning Zlătari Church, notable for housing the relics of Saint, specifically his preserved right arm, which is believed to have the power to lift curses and spells. 

 From Safekeeping to Showcasing

Across the street  stands the CEC Palace in all its glory : a grand façade and impressive glass and metal dome dominating the scene. The interior is no doubt as lavish as the ornamental details on the outside. Built in the 1900s by a French architect it was meant to serve as the headquarters of the House of Savings and Consignments Safeguarding Romania's rich art and documents. It no longer serves  as a vault.  It has, over the years, hosted various businesses and government offices, including the Senate. Today the iconic building is a cultural hub, for it not only houses a museum and art galleries but also hosts exhibitions  which was  CEC).

No clue

Close by is an excavation site covered with sheet glass. I still do not know much about its importance but it does help boost the image of a museum.

Popular 'food' street

For dinner  we are taken to the street which is said to be full with a variety of cuisines in the plethora of restaurants and cafes. It is near the Cocor Shopping centre for which we don't care  very much except for its facade which has a row of screens along its walls . These screens use livestreaming simultaneously. 

Nepali shocker

We look for a restaurant. Our friends find a Nepalese restaurant and we walk into a narrow space with black tables and chairs. Our table is closest to the cashier and we have a view of the entrance to the kitchen. Asking for some of the items displayed in the menu only drew blanks. They ordered the basic leavened bread with the most basic side dish. We waited. We prompted. We waited. Nothing remotely reassuring. We waited. Still nothing! Time is running out. We have to meet our fellow travellers in a few minutes. There would be no time to eat. We threaten to leave since we are to meet our fellow travellers soon. We ask for parcels. They hurriedly put together something and hand it over. DrInk and I had spotted a bakery on our way to the restaurant. I had some local currency left that I did not want to take back home. The exchange would not be favourable for such a meager amount. The pastries were just the right price. We always feel safe eating vegetarian pastries when traveling. And so we ate those. 

It is only upon returning to the hotel that our friend discovers he has paid a hefty sum for specialty fare that did not even meet minimum standards. It is too dry and tasteless. A wishy washy job altogether. 

Just as we leave we spy another church  that seems to fit into a frame close to us making it a photo option. Research tells me it is Bărăția Church. The structure indicates its non Orthodox. The Roman Catholic Franciscan brotherhood founded its first church here in 1314.

 

An ubiquitous symbol

We meet our tour leader at  the statue of the dog. Wrong! It's a wolf. Called the Capitoline Wolf, the statue is a well-known symbol of Rome's founding myth that of a she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus, the legendary founders of Rome. 

If you find replicas of this statue in other countries in Europe it is because they have Latin roots like Romania which has gifted them the pieces.

Spinning, shooting and dancing

We drive along the avenue that stretches for almost a kilometre, with massive water features in the center around the roundabout, lining the main streets and leading up to the Palace of the Parliament. We are too early for the nighttime show when jets of water shoot skyward, the fountains lit by  swirling illuminated by a phantasmagoria of colours  perfectly synced to music of different kinds. These musical fountains are unique to Bucharest. 

Too big for the lens

We arrive at the Palace. It is huge. Our tour leader gives us a few minutes to take pictures. Very few of us are interested because the day is fading, the gardens surrounding the building are out of bounds. And, some construction work is obstructing our view. 

Controversial:Colossal cost, weight and proportions

Anyway the Palace is so huge our camera lenses couldn't possibly capture it in one shot! After all this is Europe's Largest Administrative Building: it houses the Romanian Parliament. It is the heaviest in the world.

It has a rather absorbing history. The Romanian communist dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu, commissioned the building. The Palace  with more than 3000 rooms was intended to symbolize the success of communism in Romania. It is said his wife had a hand in the opulent interior decoration. 

Ceaușescu's legacy did not turn out to be a crowning glory, since he was overthrown and executed( the hearing lasted less than an hour)before its completion. 

Could have been in Paris

What with French architects in the little Paris in the city centre we end our visit with a passing glance of the grand Triumphal Arch, a miniature of  the Parisian Arc de Triomphe, but Romanian without a question for the intricate sculptures are reminders of the country’s  history and mythology. After all, it was built in 1936 to celebrate the country's victory in WWII.

Reflection

The day ends on a sunset reflecting from the glass walls of an adjacent building. It is the last day of our Balkan tour. Massive government buildings, ornate churches, and stately museums vie each other to create an identity for a country that is swiftly recovering from the suffering under communism