Tenerife: Far Flung Spain

 Not one but two seats of government!

We are docked at Santa Cruz, the largest city on Tenerife , the largest of the Canary Islands. It is not only the capital of the island but also one of the two political capitals of the autonomous community of Canary Archipelago, Spain. The other is Las Palmas in Gran Canaria.

All roads lead to the ‘oasis’: Plaza España 

Very close to the port are spectacular man made slopes landscaped with cacti, grass and other tropical ground cover reflecting onto a massive shallow pool. This is Plaza de Espana, dating from 1929, built over the remains of a castle. The garden only happened around 2006. The pool reflects all the modern architecture of emblematic buildings ( the grand Palacio with its clock tower, the post office, the monument to the fallen) typical of a capital city, around it. What's more, it is a very busy place. One of the reasons it is so busy is that it is at a crossroads. Almost every avenue extends out from here and hence a happy vibrant mix of locals and tourists. It's a good place to people watch and to relax.

The volcanic origins of the island is unmistakable in the hilly terrain surrounding the capital which is in the only lowland.

History bonanza

Walking through the various streets and avenues it is obvious that Santa Cruz has preserved its historical buildings very well, indeed, making it a bonanza for history buffs. The churches attest to the Catholic tradition. The Church of the Immaculate Conception has a bell tower reminiscent of a minaret.  The Guimera Theatre, a revered cultural institution, is the oldest theater in the Canary Islands.

Dragons and swords: a world record.

The parks and avenues are shaded by various types of palm trees. Other trees are dressed up in colourful crochet. But the umbrella shaped tree with a dense canopy is a  road stealer. Its leaves are sword shaped. They grow in dense tufts. Tucked among them are white flowers and choral berries. The trunk is said to contain dragon's blood, aptly named for its red gum valued for its values. We are told that in a distant town called  Icod de los Vinos, stands what is thought to be the oldest in the world:  at least 800 years old, 18 metres tall20 metres in diameter

Urban sculptures

Parks abound in Santa Cruz. They are populated generously with urban sculptures and other artsy work like the trunks clothed in crocheted lace! A bronze statue of a mackerel near a dragon tree, a wind sculpture, a 25-meter tall monument that honors those who fought in the Spanish Civil War , a huge bronze mask, the Courage Group just to name a few. There is a statue for Agatha Christie somewhere, for she wrote one of her books while residing in Santa Cruz.

Reusing in a season for buying presents

Christmas is around the corner so the streets are festooned, faces decorated,etc. Nut ruck, between all this is a museum with its doors welcomingly ajar. Lo and behold! It's an exhibition of scenes, including the Nativity scene, all created from paper, cans, cardboard boxes, etc. 

A chip off the Sydney Opera House?

A strange canopy seemingly providing shade to a fort bears traces of the Sydney Opera house. It is none other than Auditorio de Tenerife.  Avenida de la Constitución. The specs are stupefying for a diminutive looking building.  The main hall has capacity for 1616 spectators and a 16.5 m wide stage. The already diminutive 17th century fortress, Castillo de San Juan bautista, on a tiny island, is dwarfed by the modern complex.

Since all the forts look alike and sit along the sea shore we are not sure we saw the Castillo de San Cristóbal. But we know that the oasis was built over its ruins. They now have tunnels that take you underground to see the remains.

Our Lady of Africa: fascinating name for a market

The Spanish name is Mercado Municipal Nuestra Senora de Africa. The arched entrance is aptly ornate with two sculptures. One is of a barefoot Milkmaid, balancing a jug in one hand and a basket of dairy products on her head. The second is of two fishermen launching a boat. Of course, their main catch was the mackerel, which is emblematic of the once poor fishing village and hardworking citizens.

It's a colourful local market, with a colonial ambiance, with two floors filled with all kinds of canarian goods.. The bakeries and butchers are  on the ground floor. Tourists are most attracted to the fish market and seafood cafes in the basement. 

The craft stalls are a feast for the eyes. o was particularly drawn to the

Tenerife lace ( which is drawn work embroidery) and the intricate doilies

On Sundays the market spills outdoors.

What we missed

Every year Santa cruz holds a spectacular major UNESCO listed carnival, about 2 weeks before Ash Wednesday.  It it a major tourist draw.

The next blog will cover San Cristóbal de La Laguna, World Heritage Site.

Oasis of peace: Arrecife, Lancerote, Spain

 Browns and greens: au natural

We are in the capital of Lanzarote, one of the Canary Islands off the coast of Morocco.  The capital of the island, Arrecife, has a mostly white skyline with humble buildings.. But when we get off the ship, we step onto the marina with enticing restaurants and shops. As we walk towards the city we are greeted by rich browns and greens. We are crunching on black lava or walking volcanic stone paths. It is a pleasurable lesson on how the soil is formed from the weathering and erosion of volcanic ash and rock. After all we are on the land of 1000 volcanoes, the last eruption being in the 1700s.The fertile soil supports vivid green succulents creating an altogether aesthetically pleasing atmosphere.  

White and blue: simple elegance

The next colour that stands out against the distinctive white backdrop is the electric blue of the lagoon. Appropriately referred to as the puddle not only because of its size and little shoals, it  is salt water, dotted with colourful moored boats. Called “Charco de San Ginés”, historically,this little saltwater lagoon  was used as a port, both to protect fishing boats and for the entry of goods. The walk and the lagoon itself are just as beautiful as the houses around it.  Ships plying between Spain and Latin America in the Conquistador era used the port as a stop off. It remains the centre of the old city. 

The scene gets rustic when we come across a busy gentleman. On the steps leading into the lagoon a fisherman scales and guts his small catch oblivious to spectators. We wonder if the fish are destined for the family or for a restaurant.

Forts 

Being an easily accessible  port the city must have been prone to attacks. That explains the imposing castles and the fortifications. The castle closest to the port,Castillo de San Jose, now houses contemporary art.

Another interesting castle is on an island. The promenade takes us to Castillo de San Gabriel which is connected to the city by an imposing stone drawbridge called Puente de las Bolas, the bridge of the balls, perhaps because of the balls sitting atop the pillars.

Shopping street

To see more of the city's vibes we veer off into a very busy pedestrian only street called Calle León y Castillo. It is lined  with humble shops and chain stores (selling souvenirs and local products) as well as banks and pharmacies.

The Promenade takes us along a band stand towards the newest hotel, also the tallest in Arrecife. The vicinity reflects the modern architecture but at the same time reflecting the white theme .

Had we continued in the same direction we would have arrived at El Reducto Beach. The warm day that it was, dipping the toes in the sea would have been an Aah! moment, but we walk into the hotel, take the elevator to the topmost floor and have a bird's eye view of Arrecife.

Not all white: traditional architecture

We trace back into the old city for the historic and cultural vibe. Not every building is stark white. Contrasting wood elements and masonry delineate some of the traditional buildings. The typical Spanish building is yellow because the outer walls are decorated with yellow ceramic tiles. Its attraction is not only the colour but also because it was the site of the Lanzarote Council that protects the rights of children. 

In the town square, known as the oasis of peace, stands the  main church of Saint Genesis, dominating the skyline. The 16th century building is characterized by its square bell tower topped by an octagonal cupola. Part of the ambiance could be attributed to its whitewashed walls, highlighted and edged by dark volcanic stone. It is now a history museum.

Contributing to the cultural vibe even furthur is the Recova Municipal where restaurants serve authentic food  and craft shops abound.

Trivia:

Growth:

In the early 18th century the humble port had an estimated population of 73.. Within a 100 years it rose to 3000. It continued to grow and prosper in the 20th century, becoming a town and then a city all due to maritime transport.

Which came first? Bird or island.

It is the bird that is named after the islands.Did the bird come first or the islands’ name? The latter.

Bratislava, Slovakia: center of Europe

Bratislava, a walled national capital, shares its borders with Austria and Hungary. Situated between the Danube River and the Little Carpathian Mountains, its location places it at the heart of Europe. This strategic position made it a crucial crossing point for ancient European trade routes. Bratislava Castle, perched on a hill, gained fame for remaining impervious to marauders precisely because of its advantageous location.

A day trip from Vienna

We were already in Vienna after having driven through Slovakia. But we had skipped Bratislava, its Capital, since it would make for a day trip from Vienna.

The highway from Vienna leads us through what was once a motorway border checkpoint between Austria and Slovakia. No one to stop us for immigration or customs formalities for Slovakia since it is now an extension to the Schengen zone.

There is a huge mall with a McDonalds and an extensive parking area where we can park for free. Parking in the old town of Bratislava could become complicated.

We walk to the bridge, that crosses the Danube, into the old city. The bridge is wide and two tiered. We walk across the bottom level which is poorly lit in some places. The gloomy walk ends on the other side with the colourful old city.

A well known character

The  beautiful streets lead us to the main square with the old town hall and whimsical statues, including one of Hans Anderson surrounded by statues of some of his characters like the goose. (Wondering what the fairy tale author has to do with Slovakia, I find that he had visited the city in 1841. The statue was built to commemorate his 200th birthday). 

The most picturesque buildings are the old Town Hall with its green tiled mosaic like roof. Its tower has a chronological table at the bottom to indicate the high water level experienced in the 19th century when the Danube flooded.

Almost within a few meters is the Primates Palace. The exterior of the Primate's Palace is attractive, pink in colour, featuring a pleasant facade and allegorical statues upon the roof. The two 19th century penny farthing bicycles in a bike rack in front are certainly an attraction. Content to watch two young people trying them out, we enter the palace courtyard that has a fountain with a statue of St. George slaying a three-headed dragon. There are also five angelic statues within the inner courtyard. The building is said to house a rare collection of 17th century English tapestries, which were rediscovered during restoration work in the early 20th century. We skipped that.

Even more well known characters

Also in the old town  is the Radisson Blu Carlton Hotel. The hotel, originally named The Swan, with its various restorations at different times has been on this site since the 13th century. Until World War II when  the German army took over the hotel, then known as The Carlton-Savoy, it earned a reputation as one of the finest in Europe. Renowned figures like Thomas Edison, Theodore Roosevelt, and Alfred Nobel are said to have been its patrons.

Delightful deviation

The castle sitting on the hill, seen from almost anywhere in the old town, is too tempting to miss. My companions are not interested and so we continue to traverse the quaint old streets that house museums. Venturing a little further we come across two more modern buildings. One of them is the huge post office, arguably the largest in the world. The starkness reflects Russian architecture. Had we entered the building we would have been impressed because it is supposed to be beautiful. The other is a more attractive baroque style President's Palace and its gardens.This official residence of the president also known as Grassalkovich Palace, happens to be  extremely popular among tourists and Slovaks. The arcades and balconies as well as the manicured gardens behind are a soothing respite.

Back to the final point

We make our way back to the Rudnay square with the plague memorial in the vicinity of the unmistakably medieval Michael's Gate. The Plague column is ubiquitous to European cities for it is erected in memory of the end of the terrible plague epidemic that wiped out large populations. Michael’s Gate was built in the 14th century. The roof of this 14th century baroque green onion-domed Gothic tower is 51 meters tall and has seven floors.  Considered the only well preserved gate of the city fortification, it houses the Museum of Arms. Without a doubt the topmost terrace provides a panoramic view of the castle and the enchanting Old Town.

Adjacent to Rudnay square is St. Martin’s Cathedral. The Gothic cathedral is the oldest church in Bratislava (1452). The church’s 85 meter spire soars above Old Town. The church was actually built into the city’s medieval walls. 

My companions are tired and take a rest outside the  Synagogue Memorial. That's when I spy a path that goes underneath the road towards the castle. As I walk out of the underpass I'm met by impressive medieval walls. .

Clop clopping all the way

A path, cobblestoned for the most part and flanked on the valleyside by houses, takes me up a gentle slope, the Cathedral spire acting like a beacon. Before long, in about 15 mins, I'm at the bottom of a zig-zagging flight of stairs that takes me to the beautiful Vienna Gate facing one of the castle towers. As I turn around to marvel at the castle I get an amazing view of St Martin’s Cathedral, the picturesque Old Town, and the modern city beyond.  Austria and Hungary are also visible. A walk in the huge landscaped garden reveals the surrounding buildings, including an armoury. The rococo style castle I see now is the result of restoration after various tragedies from war and fire. It is hard to believe that it was once a military garrison. There is a feature that is atypical. One of the staircases  leading into the castle is broader and gently sloped. It seems some of the staircases within the castle also have similar dimensions. The reason? The queen wanted to be able to ride her horse into the castle and up to her apartments!

When I get back down we take a walk along the Danube's boardwalk. A river cruise craft is moored at the pier. If we had had more time we would have walked to the botanical gardens.

Suspen(d)se

Walking towards the SNP bridge to cross it and get back to our car we realise the uniqueness  of the initially non-descript bridge. Impressive dimensions but not a single support in the riverbed. The steel structure, all 550 tons of it, is suspended  with steel cables from only one support that rises above the bridge that is connected to 2 pillars on the other side of the river! At the top of the tower/support is the flying saucer-shaped structure housing a restaurant, familiarly called the UFO.

Missed 

Where is Çumil? How big is he? I keep looking at every corner  we turn or every street we cross. Surely a crowd will be around it. It should be easy to find. But…! The ‘sewage worker’ remains a delusion to me. We simply did not thoroughly search the city centre!

We did not walk further enough to delight in the Blue Church.

Insurance:The accident

We have been warned about rash driving in Eastern Europe. Young men with new expensive cars throw caution to the wind. So far we have driven defensively. We reverse the car cautiously only to hear a slight ding. We have been hit by a huge expensive car. He speeds away. We check the damage. It's not going to affect driving. We know that we cannot do anything from all that we have read about the local procedures and so we leave it to our insurance for the rental car which is pretty high for Eastern Europe. Even then they did charge us 500 Euros for damage to the body.

Unattractive port that belies: Pisco, Chile, Dec 2015

 

Destination: not a put down

We are destined for Pisco, a port about which we know very little. 

As we dock we are disillusioned because our pier is at General San Martin. It is desolate. It is an industrial port.There is nothing in the vicinity that can entice us to explore. A handful of taxis stand by. Some cruise passengers have arranged private transportation in advance. We are aware that Pisco is known for its sour liquor of the same name and a gateway to marine animal watching. Both do not interest us and hence decide to simply walk along the pier, give our legs a good workout and return to the ship. But the shuttle bus is temptingly ( a nominal return fare) awaiting passengers. Hence it is decided that I venture out. Not many people are interested in the ride and hence it is only half full.

Shantytown renewal

The 30 minute ride turns out to be fascinating, revealing the geography and the economy of the area. The route takes us through desert sand . Shanty towns appear on the coastal side (dune country on the other). They seem to be in various stages of building. A board tells us we are in the Paracas National Reserve.

Revitalizing

We are dropped off at Plaza D'Aramas, Pisco's main square with its shady trees and clean pedestrian walks. Taking what I believed to be the arterial street I'm flanked in the buildings and side roads which are mostly under construction or repair. The earthquake of 2007 had destroyed most of the resort towns and they were still rebuilding in 2015. 

Triumphal Celebrities 

When I take the route towards the esplanade I'm greeted by thousands of birds, mostly gulls and pelicans. Some pelicans cockily pose for pictures. A professional photographer tells me these few birds are the most photographed in the town. They have a celebrity status.The hundreds of moored boats seem to be overtaken by the birds. It was hilarious to watch pelicans at the bow seemingly calling out orders to the myriad of smaller birds sitting on the masts, the rigging, the plank seats, etc. Not a fisherman to be seen on the boats. A sight indeed! It is not surprising that the name Pisco comes from a native word that means bird.

Artisans and vendors

While the birds rule the water, the souvenir shops are busy. Visitors are entertained by local musicians. The surfaces displayed under the trees, near the seats, on folding tables and counters all ooze a unique culture.

Gateway to marine habitat

The furthest part of the esplanade takes me into a building. This is where tickets can be purchased for boat rides that take you further out, to the Balletas Islands to watch wildlife. The Paracas National Reserve is known to protect a stunning variety of birds and other animals. A long line of tourists awaits the arrival of the boat to take them. Could the birds be mistaken for the crew and guides? 

 

Lead by the llama

As I return to the pier in the late evening it is bustling with souvenir stalls, a llama leading the array of wool products and more.

The tourist dollar

Pisco province is famous for the grape brandy of the same name consequently becoming renowned for its vineyards that grow the grapes, the main ingredient.

Little by little, Pisco’s tourist attractions are helping locals rebuild the city. It is not only the Nature Park but also the proximity to some Nazca lines that tourists are attracted to. The beach and its crashing waves are an invitation to surfers just as the dunes are for sandboarding, sledding, and surfing.  

Why did we not dock or tender at Pisco?

Neither Pisco nor its little neighbor,  Paracas, has a harbour and thus we dock at General San Martin or Puerto San Martin on the other side of Paracas bay.  Long ocean swells rolling in make it dangerous to tender either into Pisco or Paracas. Only San Martin offers some shelter.

Vivified: Agadir, Morocco, 2014

 Run-of-the-mill 

Our experience in Agadir is totally different from the other ports we visited in Morocco. For starters, the port is far away from the city. As far as we can see only sand and rocks are visible. It is a desert. So we are in a port where there is no point wandering around. There is a shuttle bus to the town.  Should we walk there? Secondly, an elderly couple suggests we share a taxi to take us around the city. We do and we are not disappointed. 

Predictable tourism in a unique port

Our driver-cum-guide drives past the Marina (none of our fellow passengers expresses interest in it). But almost immediately our attention is drawn by huge nets piled on boats, some spilling onto the pier. It is the fishing port. In fact, it is  considered the first sardine port in the world. It is not only the busyness that attracts us but also the auction. It is hard to tell the difference between the auctioneers and the bidders for lack of understanding of their language. Strangely there is only a hint of the sea food odor. The last time we had experienced that was in Helsinki's fish market.

Shipyards: quite an experience

As we drive by we catch glimpses of shipbuilding. Quite curious, we take a stroll down the pier and get to see shipbuilding from the skeleton to the almost completed traditional wooden fishing boats built by hand. It is hard to tell the difference between what is being  built and what is being repaired. We have since found out that shipbuilding, especially of newer and bigger ships with steel hulls, is now considered Morocco's mainstay for its  economy.

Inescapable,  yet wondrous

Of course, our driver-cum-guide does the tour-guide requisite. He takes us to an Argan oil (a highly coveted multi purpose miracle oil) cooperative to show us the traditional methods of production. An expert tells us how unique and precious the tree is to this part of the world, how the kernel is harvested, extracted and processed and, then, its traditional uses. Predictably we are introduced to the other products, including black seed oil ( anti inflammatory and antibacterial) which we are already familiar with, produced or sold in the facility. It is fascinating how the wide array of goods testifies to the popularity of homeopathic treatments.

The return to sightseeing:Mosques 

Our next stop is a mosque. Just like most of Morocco, visitors are not allowed inside, but the façade has us admiring the richly decorated horse-shoe shaped doors. The walls just under the eaves and along the pillars sport blind arcades with intricate stucco carvings made up of calligraphy and decorative patterns mostly in brown and beige. Only when we peek in through the turquoise  grilles at the top of an immense staircase do we see the traditional greens and blues. The roof of green porcelain tiles looks  like a slim edge from below.  It offers a charming outline contrasting with the earthy hues of the facade. 

Lebanese  Mosque

We did not have a tour of this building with a less prominent minaret. Allegedly this mosque welcomes visitors of all faiths and also offers guided tour. 

Kasbah

Next we go up the hills that can be seen from anywhere in the city just as the Alps are in most cities in Austria. We are near the ruins of the ancient Kasbah in the midst of restoration. It is no longer a bustling city with souks, mosques, or a medina. The bulk of the city was destroyed in the earthquake of 1960. Most of the history is gone except for what is displayed in a museum. 

Interestingly, as we go up the hill to simply be in the vicinity of what was once the Kasbah, we are taken to a viewpoint that gives us stunning views of the sea side.

A renewal : the progressive spirit

All is not lost. The destruction of historical structures meant rebuilding. The renewal has included gardens and parks, big hotels and the inclusivity and tolerance of the  Lebanese mosque. Most of the buildings, a mix of the modern and traditional, are white, hence earning the city the nickname  ‘White City'. 

Beach

Finally we take a stroll along the crescent shaped beach which caters to tourism . The 10 km seafront t is a tourist haven complete with magnificent views  of the blue Atlantic waters. The Promenade is broad and it runs all along g the coast starting g from the Marina.

Of note:

One of the symbols of modernity appears in a curious form. What's that strange looking palm tree in the park? It's actually a transmission tower!

Trivia:

 Agadir is famous for the largest collection of beehives in the world. 

Rattled in Rabat, Morocco, 2014

 Expect the unexpected

At the railway ticket counter in Casablanca we are told only cash in local currency will be accepted. So one of us ( a group of 5, 2 men and 3 women)goes to a money changer, gets the necessary cash and then buys the return tickets. We wait in the station that is bright and shiny with clean efficiency.

The country side

Our train ride reveals rural Morocco interspersed with urban areas that reflect the country's development. The farms are in various stages of agriculture depending on the crop. The modest life stock graze peacefully in verdant pastures.Closer to Rabat stands a stadium.

Capital efficiency 

The station at Rabat has typical Moroccan pendant lamps with cast iron detailing at the entrance. It's all very neat and tidy.

As we step out we see clean trams and tram tracks. But the city seems to be compact enough to explore on foot. Again French is widely spoken. Sign boards appear in French as well

A calm before the storm?

The chic of the young women and men going about their business is impressive. But tourists are few and far between. The sum result is that it is calmer than Tangier, not to speak of Marrakech  and Fez  which are, of course, the prime tourist cities for Morocco. As a result we feel very relaxed as we go about.

At a leisurely pace

Ahead of us, as we walk in the general direction of the city centre is the long rampart ubiquitous to Morocco. The square minaret of the Hassan Mosque stands out. That must be the whereabouts of the medina. The minaret stands alone. Of the once exquisite Mosque ( the the second largest in the Islamic world)only the minaret remains. Most of the medieval city was destroyed by the Portugese in the 16th century. Adjacent to it is the mausoleum  of Mohammed V. We simply walk by having already taken in the green roofs from a distance. 

Large gates lead into the palace grounds, replete with enchantingly pruned trees standing majestically along the path while another leads into the medina revealing  and arched walkway. It is cast in shadows with an intermittent golden glow between the pillars. It seems to be gloomy since it is devoid of activity.

Ville Nouvelle: new town

A little further out are white buildings that mark the modern city. Palm lined boulevards and little parks with boxed trees add to the charm. The most interesting building  is the art museum with filigree arches on the verandah surrounding the building, a little like a building you'll find in New Orleans. The French influence.

The ‘storm’: a hasty retreat

Just when we feel we should return to the station for our return journey to Casablanca so as not to miss our boat, we notice that the traffic which had picked up a little earlier has now subsided. There are lots more men walking about. In front of the minaret, out on the lawn, men are seated on their prayer mats ready for prayers. We get strange looks at first. And then we get 10 metre piercing looks. It seems to get more threatening  by the moment. 

All eyes on us, our adrenalin pumping, the missing variable suddenly strikes home: today is a Friday , the holiest day for Muslims. The three women in our group are bare headed.

Tourist etiquette: 

Nothing to it but to make a hasty exit out of respect for the local culture.

Friday evening prayers have brought all the Muslim men to their knees. Women worship in a separate, usually enclosed, area. The city has virtually come to a standstill.

Luckily for us, our train back to Casablanca efficiently runs on schedule .

A bonus with little time to spare

As we return to our ship and feast on tacos we realise that we have local currency that is practically worthless anywhere else but in Morrocco. Casablanca, our present port, is the last stop in Morocco. We have to use  it up. As we entered the port earlier in the day we walked by a huge tented temporary market for Moroccan craft including leather bags. It has started rainng. I grab an umbrella and make a 10 min dash to the only stall that is open. it has leather handbags. Glad that the choice had narrowed, I select one and ask for the price. It is a lot more than the cash I have on hand. The salesman has to close shop. Ideal for bargaining. There is a small remonstrance. I show him the amount I have. He takes it quietly and hands me the bag. I rush back to the ship before the rain begins to pelt, minutes before the gangway is reeled in. 

In ordinary circumstances I would never have bought a leather hand bag. We do not invest in souvniers. What a day of contrasting emotions.