Unattractive port that belies: Pisco, Chile, Dec 2015

 

Destination: not a put down

We are destined for Pisco, a port about which we know very little. 

As we dock we are disillusioned because our pier is at General San Martin. It is desolate. It is an industrial port.There is nothing in the vicinity that can entice us to explore. A handful of taxis stand by. Some cruise passengers have arranged private transportation in advance. We are aware that Pisco is known for its sour liquor of the same name and a gateway to marine animal watching. Both do not interest us and hence decide to simply walk along the pier, give our legs a good workout and return to the ship. But the shuttle bus is temptingly ( a nominal return fare) awaiting passengers. Hence it is decided that I venture out. Not many people are interested in the ride and hence it is only half full.

Shantytown renewal

The 30 minute ride turns out to be fascinating, revealing the geography and the economy of the area. The route takes us through desert sand . Shanty towns appear on the coastal side (dune country on the other). They seem to be in various stages of building. A board tells us we are in the Paracas National Reserve.

Revitalizing

We are dropped off at Plaza D'Aramas, Pisco's main square with its shady trees and clean pedestrian walks. Taking what I believed to be the arterial street I'm flanked in the buildings and side roads which are mostly under construction or repair. The earthquake of 2007 had destroyed most of the resort towns and they were still rebuilding in 2015. 

Triumphal Celebrities 

When I take the route towards the esplanade I'm greeted by thousands of birds, mostly gulls and pelicans. Some pelicans cockily pose for pictures. A professional photographer tells me these few birds are the most photographed in the town. They have a celebrity status.The hundreds of moored boats seem to be overtaken by the birds. It was hilarious to watch pelicans at the bow seemingly calling out orders to the myriad of smaller birds sitting on the masts, the rigging, the plank seats, etc. Not a fisherman to be seen on the boats. A sight indeed! It is not surprising that the name Pisco comes from a native word that means bird.

Artisans and vendors

While the birds rule the water, the souvenir shops are busy. Visitors are entertained by local musicians. The surfaces displayed under the trees, near the seats, on folding tables and counters all ooze a unique culture.

Gateway to marine habitat

The furthest part of the esplanade takes me into a building. This is where tickets can be purchased for boat rides that take you further out, to the Balletas Islands to watch wildlife. The Paracas National Reserve is known to protect a stunning variety of birds and other animals. A long line of tourists awaits the arrival of the boat to take them. Could the birds be mistaken for the crew and guides? 

 

Lead by the llama

As I return to the pier in the late evening it is bustling with souvenir stalls, a llama leading the array of wool products and more.

The tourist dollar

Pisco province is famous for the grape brandy of the same name consequently becoming renowned for its vineyards that grow the grapes, the main ingredient.

Little by little, Pisco’s tourist attractions are helping locals rebuild the city. It is not only the Nature Park but also the proximity to some Nazca lines that tourists are attracted to. The beach and its crashing waves are an invitation to surfers just as the dunes are for sandboarding, sledding, and surfing.  

Why did we not dock or tender at Pisco?

Neither Pisco nor its little neighbor,  Paracas, has a harbour and thus we dock at General San Martin or Puerto San Martin on the other side of Paracas bay.  Long ocean swells rolling in make it dangerous to tender either into Pisco or Paracas. Only San Martin offers some shelter.