Firth and Brun: Invergordon & Inverness, Scotland

Feeling at home

My love for the English language so artistically used to open up worlds of imagination, creating a better sense of the cultural scene was definitely more than invigorated by our visit to Inverness.

I have been to Sir Walter Scott's residence, now turned into a museum, where I was overwhelmed by his huge collection of books and his armoury. A typical English picnic from a wicker basket, sitting with a Scots friend, close to an old stone bridge on the banks of the River Tweed was an unforgettable experience.

The Frith: portending surprise

Now, after nearly 30 years I am back in this area of Scotland,  gateway to the Highlands, the United Kingdom's northernmost city, on a cruise. We are to dock at Invergordon. But where is the dock? Shrouded in fog it sits right beside one of the several oil rigs about a mile from the shore.  A bridge connects it to the mainland.  We are actually in a deep water inlet called a frith in Scottish and I have come across this word in British poetry. It derives from the Old Norse word fjǫrthr, meaning "fjord".There is a dock closer to the town but other ships are already docked there. We wait for shuttles to negotiate the mile that used to  be a wooden bridge, the Salter Pier, to transport ore to the aluminum smelter.

Impact of tourism on locals 

Most of our fellow passengers have left on excursions to Loch Ness. We are more interested in the countryside than in the elusive monster. Invergordon promises to be very interesting indeed, but Inverness is not far away. We have to take either the bus or the train.There's some speculation that the buses will be too crowded. But we do not know how frequent the train is either. Besides, the bus stop is closer to us than the railway station. It takes a while. The crowd has thinned, opting to take the train instead. I get on the bus that arrives soon enough and find a seat. As the bus pulls off and the idyllic undulating, verdant countryside dotted with lakes passes by, I share an observation with my seat mate. She is a local going to the city for the day. She is very pleasant. I gather that locals do complain when cruise lines are in town and take up the space in the local buses. However the city does increase the frequency during times of high traffic

Inverness library welcomes

The bus terminates in Inverness. The first thing I see is the library, something I can't resist. What an exciting place, with colourful enticing posters and literature displays all capped by cheerful librarians.

Macbeth: I am afraid to think what I have done;

                Look on't again I dare not.

And then it is an easy walk into town. A crenellated castle,on a cliff top, looking very new, beckons. After all, this is Scotland, and there's bound to be some intrigue.  The building we see today was built in 1834.  It has been rebuilt several times. It's believed that  the very first castle was built in the 11th century by King Malcolm III.  Following that another was built in its place in the mid 16th Century. Mary, Queen of Scots, besieged it when the castle governor shut the gates on her, refusing entry, only to have it recaptured in 3 days! And how did she acknowledge the governor's hospitality? By hanging him. And if that rings a bell, yes, it is the story of Macbeth killing King Duncan, his host. I'm excited to be in the castle even though it is the latest version built to accommodate a courthouse. Besides, it is not open  to the public. Why am I excited?  Macbeth is my all time favourite among Shakespeare's plays. 

The Brun

The grounds and the garden are well kept. We get a good view of the city of Inverness. We are looking over the river Ness, a brun, for that is the Scottish word for a small stream or river. The name "Inverness" comes from the Gaelic "Inbhir Nis," meaning "mouth of the River Ness". 

The river is fast-flowing and known for its clear waters, which are an ideal environment for salmon and trout. Islands in the river are connected to the banks with Victorian suspension bridges. 

The value of soot

Back in the town, on Castle St we encounter more historic buildings blackened by decades of soot which actually protect the original stone from decay. One of the buildings is Merchant House.

Adding to the gothic

Walking along the bank of the brun we come across the gothic styled St Mary's church with traceried windows which tempts us to explore its graveyard.

Yet another church, the Old High Church, the oldest Church in Inverness has a strange looking gate in its yard that opens into a square enclosure with a row of columns. It is actually a Mausoleum. The site had once been where Jacobites were imprisoned or executed.

 But not all is gloom

On the other side of the river bank the spires of the Free North Church form an indomitable presence seemingly cleaned of all grime.

And then there is the Town Hall, an example of Victorian Gothic architecture, all cleaned up and majestic.

The market turned arcade

Like most towns, Inverness had an 1870 open-air market subject to the elements. It has since become a covered market to protect traders and customers from the sometimes inclement weather. The red iron work arches highlight the Victorian architecture.

I'm back at the library but it's time to return to Invergordon. Why not take the train this time? A good decision.

The walls speak

This town has murals everywhere, mostly depicting war themes. There is a total of 11 murals representing the cultural heritage derived from being in a strategic position for historic naval matters and as a gateway to the Highlands. The residential areas exude a cultural charm. 

Near the pier is Natal Gardens commemorating the HMS Natal that sank in 1915. The garden is aesthetically appealing. The  neatness the says much of the gardeners, efforts.