The town with eyes: Sibiu, Romania

Hermannstadt

The German name speaks of the remarkable historic events, involving Transylvania and the Saxons, that I wrote about in a previous blog. Today the city is popularly known as Sibiu. Before we reach the historic centre we pass by modern high rise housing in pleasant pastels. A hint of what is to come.

Fortification repurposed

As soon as we set foot in the old town we walk through a walled fortification that leads to the Thick Tower. This is one of the original 39 defensive towers built to guard the town. It has a unique U shape . At different levels there are platforms for cannons and other defense measures. Over the years it has variously served as a grain storehouse, a fire watchtower, a temporary prison and even a museum. 

A proud culture

Annexed to the tower is Thalia Hall, an impressive theatre and concert hall, which houses the State Philharmonic of Sibiu. The hall hosts weekly concerts by the Sibiu Orchestra and also other performances like the ballet. 

Class division ?

This medieval city’s historic center has two parts, the lower and the upper. What do you associate with the upper ? Did I hear you say ,”the upper class”? You're spot on. The lower town was the domain of the artisans and such. Where are we right now? That's right, the Upper Town for after all we just passed the theatre. 

Close by is  the Sibiu County Department of the National Archives of Romania. And artists have displayed their works for sale right opposite the building.

All eyes on us: See-(v/b)iew  as Sibiu is pronounced!

All around us are houses with attic windows that are designed to look like eyes. It is no wonder then that Sibiu has the appropriate moniker: The city of eyes.

All eyes are on our local guide as well as she is proudly  dressed in a dark green traditional costume. Apparently she is an award winning Romanian guide. She waits for us in the arched passage featuring a cobbled floor and white walls, characteristic of the town's historical passages and alleys. The passage leads into the vibrant town square, the Piata Mare (Big Square),. 

Distinct German logic, reason and the fine arts

Brukenthal Palace appears before us. What used to be the house of the Governor of Transylvania is now Romania’s first museum. It includes the Pharmacy Museum, the museum of Hunting and the museums of History, Romanian art and Contemporary art.

Just across the museum is Sibiu City Hall, featuring ornate architectural details in facades and balconies,a cupola and the attic windows.

We also happen to walk around the coat of arms of Sibiu, embossed on metal, embedded on the ground.

Steeped in history

The steeple of  the Lutheran Cathedral of Saint Mary looms before us. Adding to its Gothic architecture is the fact it served as a burial place for important figures in Sibiu society until the 18th century. Way out another landmark stands out: Saint John's Church with its distinctive bell tower 

The invaluable craftsmen

As we pound the cobblestones we come across a curiosity: a pole with tools, buttons and nails stuck to it. It is called the Journeymen's  pole.  The items were left behind by traveling craftsmen to symbolise not only their craft but also their journey. The building it fronts used to house these men and served as a workshop

There's also a German-language high school, named after Samuel von Brukenthal, who served as the governor. The school has a long history, starting in the 14th century making it the oldest German-language school in Romania. The present building is not in its original site but on that of an earlier educational institution. You wouldn't know since that's how subtle the restoration work in Sibiu is.

A tableau appears

Walking through another archway  we greeted with a vista of the lower town with its sloping paths and stairways and arches.

Bridge of lies

Several steep streets and stairways lead from the Lower to the Upper Town and. One of them, a steep incline,  passes beneath the "Bridge of Lies" - a popular meeting place among the locals even though it's rather lonely today.A bridge like you see in other parts of Europe with lovers locks  on the railings? Not exactly.

Be warned, though. The bridge will collapse as soon as anyone tells a lie while expressing love or making a trade deal while on it. 

Rest assured. These are just legend legends. The Germans called the bridge Liegenbrücke. It translates to ‘lying bridge’ describing the fact that it has no supporting pillars.

Will I miss it?

Since we started our walk in Sibiu the Trinity Catholic Church has caught my eye. I wanted to enter but we are busy moving on to other sights. By the time our tour guide leaves us on our own I begin to despair. Will I ever get to see the interior? The cathedral entrance is elusive. We hardly see anyone entering or leaving and the people we ask about it do not know! And then we see some people leaving and I quickly move to the spot and enter. I'm not disappointed. Some  Worshippers remain seated, while others are getting  ready to leave. So I quickly take in the ornate decorations, murals, pink columns, ceiling frescoes and the intricate stone carvings and the organ 

Twilight zone

That night we are to stay in Sibiu. As soon as we check in, we leave for the Old town again because we do not want to miss the sunset. We simply enter the fortress and head west as far as we can go until we hit a wall in the upper town. The sun has almost set casting a golden glow over the red brick walls. Little was I prepared for the surrealistic spectacle with arches framing views. We were actually at the Stairs Passage, a third fortification ring made up of arches and stairs around the Protestant Church. It served as an important link between the upper and lower towns.

As we returned to the hotel, we began to notice how the subtly modern restaurants are getting very busy plying customers with culinary delights while soaking in the old town charm.

Sibiu is soo- beayu-tiful. The dormer eyes which never close trading their sight over the precious heritage!

With a soar and a sigh(t): Sighisoara, Romania

Fairyland

We are headed towards Sighisoara, a citadel on a hill top. Our tour leader has thoughtfully arranged  to take us to the top on a little red train. Passing by pastel hued houses along inclined, windy,cobblestoned streets on which we go bump-bump, and medieval towers and then a red walled white trimmed house is like a child's dream of fairyland come true.

Imbued with Dracula 

Lunch has been arranged for us at a creepy looking, bright yellow, medieval building Marked by a black iron dragon, with narrow, dark staircases. We are served food on platters that evoke gore but are aesthetically plated, nevertheless.  We are right in the building where Vlad the Impaler, also known as Vlad Dracula,was born sometime between 1428 and 1431.gained notoriety for his brutal method of impaling his enemies  A room within has been turned into a horror museum which fans can enter for a fee. We didn’t bother to go in, but there was a long queue. 

A few metres away is the torture chamber! We simply walk by. Entrance is near the  (shudder)Passage of the Old Ladies, a rustic covered walkway!

A spectacular introduction

Just opposite is the clock tower, an imposing edifice lording over the dramatic old town. A 17th century Swiss clock with faces on two sides of the tower is its defining feature. On the side facing the city are seven wooden figures, one for each day of the week, stored inside. The figure representing the particular day appears outside. A brilliant mechanism changes the figures each day. On the other side of the tower, facing the citadel, are various other figures. A climb within the three storeyed tower would have taken us to the floors dedicated to the Roman, Medieval  and Saxon history of Romania and of course the innards of the unique clock.The multi-colored roof tiles glitter in the sun.

You can't play truant

One of the buildings we pass by is the German cultural centre which is now a museum with plenty of handicraft for sale. Very close to it is a covered wooden staircase consisting of 176 steps called Scholars’ Stairs. It was built as a passage connecting  the lower citadel with the upper. The roof ensured that the passage remained navigable during the harsh winter weather and its heavy snowfall. On the top stands the Church on the Hill. Besides, this staircase helped students reach the school near the church throughout the year. It’s still here to this day and you can walk up the dark stairs to get to the top of the hill! Now buskers make good use of the walkway.

We skip the stairs and therefore deprive ourselves of being  awed by the historic webbed ceiling and frescoes within the church as also the historic cemetery.

Where is  the monastery?

As we wander around we see the Monastery Church. The Monastery that was beside the church was demolished in the late 19th century. In its place stands the present town hall.the church with its Gothic architecture is spooky. Again we just walk around it knowing fully well about the valuable bronze artifacts it houses. 

Tower spotting

Defensive towers, of which only nine towers have survived, were built into the walls surrounding the old town, of which the Clock Tower is one. Each one is designed differently depending on the finances of the guild that took responsibility for it. The only other one we can identify clearly is the Tailors tower with its double archway, just opposite the clock Tower. 

Unknowingly we walk along the citadel walls and find ourselves in what we now know to be the tower walk. We should have spotted the blacksmith's tower, which was also close to the clock tower,and the water tower but then we really did not know what we were looking for. Turning a corner and passing through yet another archway takes us to a blue building. That is called the Blue House citadel. We might have found all of them had the walk not involve steep inclines and had the cobblestones been kinder to our feet.

We are back at citadel square to start our walk downhill towards our bus. But not before another look at the colourful ancient buildings and glimpses  of the stalls selling trinkets, and souvenirs. 

An unmistakable Saxon built citadel indeed, with the guilds, the school and the fortification!

Not to be brushed off: Brasov, Romania

Incredulous history:Saxons in Transylvania

I've always associated Saxons with Britain partly because I'm familiar with the term Anglo-Saxons. But Saxons in Romania?Just as the Ottoman rulers of old in the Balkans have left an indelible mark in the culture of the region, so have the Saxons in what was Transylvania. Who are these Saxons? They were all from the German speaking regions, and therefore a Germanic tribe. Why were they in Transylvania? Well, the sparsely populated Transylvania of the 12th century was part of Hungary. The then king invited these people to populate the area and consequentially defend it from marauders. The first group to arrive settled in Sibiu (to be covered in my next post ) in the southern parts of Transylvania. 

In the 13th century the Hungarian ruler granted the Brasov area to the Germanic tribe. They in turn attempted to establish their own state. The area needed defence not internal strife and so the wise king granted them many privileges so that they would remain loyal to Hungary. They were exempt from taxes and duties. In return they made a yearly payment for the lands they received as well as provide soldiers for the king.

In other words, the Germanic tribe was an immigrant community invited for the defence of Transylvania and to contribute to its economic development.

They were expert craftsmen and tradesmen. They formed guilds. They contributed greatly to the growth of Brasov as a city. They helped to maintain the walls and bastions. The seven citadels (one of which is mentioned in my previous post) in the area stand testament to their valuable contribution to the 6th largest city in Romania.

Ominous start

We walk down the main street under a sky laden with clouds. Our introduction to Brasov begins with the boutiques, cafes and souvenir shops, housed in and between historic buildings including a church, probably Orthodox, built during the Soviet era, that line the pedestrian Strada Republici. The side is artistically paved.It is certainly a picturesque  town with  varied architecture styles and colourful facades. We simply pass by insinuatingly squeezed alleys reminding me of Venice. What stories would we have uncovered? The narrowest street in Europe is somewhere here.

The long street leads us right into Piața Sfatului (Marketplatz, in German), the heart of the old town. A marquee and chairs arranged in a circle tell us that some event is on. There is some music and movement of people but we are clueless as to what exactly is going on. Our local guide is droning on about the history of Brasov intent on taking us to the Black Church. Perhaps he did say something about how the central square is always bustling with people, and that numerous events take place here.

The phenomenon 

The first building that rises before us is the very Viennese looking administrative building of the University of Transylvania.  And then we feel the drizzle picking up. Hurriedly we unfurl our umbrellas, and seek shelter in a narrow space in the buildings fringing the square. The rain pierces the umbrellas held at angles to form a wall. It is not rain but ice crystals in the form of long needles! Of course, they almost  immediately form puddles at our feet. That phenomenon turns out to be a great setting for what we are about to learn. A few 100 years ago the square was used for public executions, punishments and public humiliation (for crimes including witchcraft), just as in Piazza San Marco in Venice, Italy. 

Trodding on  the entombed 

But that's not all. When the rain lets up we walk along the gravel around the church, skipping puddles. Why was it not paved? Hold your breath! A complex of 1,400 graves lie under our feet!  Also underneath us are archaeological remains of a civilisation. 

The Council House in the centre of the square, now a Museum of History, has displays of artefacts from the various historical eras in the area.

Biserica Neagra: Black Church 

This majestic Lutheran church, originally Roman Catholic, was built in the 14th century by the Bulgarians over a period of 100 years. (Sagrada Familia( Barcelona, Spain) was started 144 years ago and is still not complete.) This blackened church reminds me of Kholn, Germany.  The Kholn cathedral was constructed of sandstone before the industrial revolution. Over the years natural aging, pollution and damage during World War II contributed to the darkening of the facade.

The same can be said of the Black Church, but with a difference. Instead of war it was ravaged by a big fire at the end of the 17th century.

More impressive details.

Had we entered the church we would have seen a collection of oriental carpets, and that reminds me of Hagia Sofia (Istanbul, Turkey) with a history of the Byzantine church, mosque and museum. 

More impressive is the Baroque organ, built in the 19th century, with 4,000 pipes – the biggest working organ in the country.

It is also known for its six-ton bronze bell.

There's a lot more to explore, especially the various towers spread across the city each one specialising in storing a particular commodity of a guild.

The merchant houses in market square have dormer windows in their tiled roofs that look like eyes peering out.from the square We have a good view of Tampa mountain the lush greenery of which forms a contrasting  the  white letters spelling out the name of the city, reminiscent of Hollywood. 

Amusing amenity

Our short visit almost at an end we wait at the local bus station just beside a park with inviting red benches. We are in for some amusement. A bus rolls by towing a bike rack. Three cyclists mount their bicycles in a series and strap them to the metal frames. 

A Twist

Had we continued past the Black Church we would have entered the Schei district through a gate. The Bulgarians began settling in the area beginning the 14th century. They were not allowed to settle in the Saxon fortified city. Not only were they allowed entry I to the citadel through a gate only at specific times to sell their goods but also to pay tolls for vending within the walls. As mentioned above they worked on the Black Church. After three centuries they became assimilated and all the former restrictions were 

Stake on Bran Castle, Romania

A foretaste of creepiness 

Our route from Bucharest to Brasau takes us through Transylvania. The Carpathian mountains surround us. The landscape is rustic with rippling rivers, herds of sheep and idyllic villages. Perhaps because of association with the name ‘Transylvania’ ,made famous through Bram Stoker's Dracula  I begin to notice stone buildings and architectural details that seem creepy and haunting.

Intrigue: Bran Castle or Dracula's  Castle?

Yes, we arrive at Bran Castle, marketed as Dracula's castle. Bram Stoker had never been to Romania. He only envisioned the castle. However it does have an uncannily similar setting and features.

The first feature that strikes us is the sheer height in proportion to the base area. It is built at the entrance to a gorge, a natural moat, and therefore the sheer impenetrable stone wall. 

The turrets with steep, sloping roofs and slit windows are intimidating. An equally steep staircase with narrow steps jam-packed with tourists awaits us. It takes us about 20 mins on the steps to reach the stiles at the entrance. With the multitude of people the atmosphere could have been celebratory rather than creepy, but surprisingly it remains chilly thanks to claustrophobic features: doors,passages, stairs(a secret passage) that lead from the first floor to the third, dizzying tight spiral staircases that accommodate only one person at a time, dark nooks just before the doors into the rooms all speak of intrigue.

Highlighting through contrast

The muted grey, and brown colours add a sense of decay and foreboding.As though to enhance the eeriness some color is presented through  blue ceramic tiled stoves, a blue kettle, a bench near the hearth, etc. 

The covered wooden verandas give us a view of the courtyard that seems like a deep well. In fact, it does have a well, or two. Initially meant to provide the needs of the household it was found to be inadequate. It has now been turned into an elevator shaft that takes paid customers into a multimedia museum.

However, there's a wishing well.

From fortress to castle

Built in 1377, this stone fortress was built by the Saxons, of German origin, to guard the mountain pass and defend Transylvania from the Ottoman Empire. It was also used as a customs checkpoint. The real Dracula, 

Vlad Draculea III, never stayed here  but he did pass from Bran gorge at least once to set the outskirts of Brasov aflame  and impale some traders for not paying their taxes but that was it.

Transylvania joined Romania after world war 2. In 1920 the castle was given to Romania’s Queen Marie in memory of the war heroes and it underwent some reconstruction to make it suitable for a noble  family to live in. It became a summer retreat for the royal family. Bran was lived in by the royal family even after Queen Marie's death. Her daughter Princess Ileana lived in it until the communist regime forced her into exile.

Today the fully furnished and renovated castle is a museum.

Feature: a small square of the brick and stone wall is exposed to show how the tall walls were fortified  : wooden boards embedded in the brickwork helped to protect them against distortions , cracking, or risks such as earthquakes.

Then it was time to take in the whole scene from the landscaped gardens at the bottom of the hill. I thought this tree with a hanging artificial swatch of red leaves was particularly metaphoric.  Beyond the pond were umpteen bright yellow bean bags with people sitting in various poses, admiring the castle from its bottom up. Had we stayed longer we would have seen the landmark lit against the twilight.

   

More reminders of a bloody history

As we leave Brasnove we get a good view of Râșnov Citadel, a medieval fortress, considered one of the best-preserved rural citadels in Transylvania and Romania,  high above the hills. Its position afforded a high-altitude viewing post and an early warning system against invading armies.