Hermannstadt
The German name speaks of the remarkable historic events, involving Transylvania and the Saxons, that I wrote about in a previous blog. Today the city is popularly known as Sibiu. Before we reach the historic centre we pass by modern high rise housing in pleasant pastels. A hint of what is to come.
Fortification repurposed
As soon as we set foot in the old town we walk through a walled fortification that leads to the Thick Tower. This is one of the original 39 defensive towers built to guard the town. It has a unique U shape . At different levels there are platforms for cannons and other defense measures. Over the years it has variously served as a grain storehouse, a fire watchtower, a temporary prison and even a museum.
A proud culture
Annexed to the tower is Thalia Hall, an impressive theatre and concert hall, which houses the State Philharmonic of Sibiu. The hall hosts weekly concerts by the Sibiu Orchestra and also other performances like the ballet.
Class division ?
This medieval city’s historic center has two parts, the lower and the upper. What do you associate with the upper ? Did I hear you say ,”the upper class”? You're spot on. The lower town was the domain of the artisans and such. Where are we right now? That's right, the Upper Town for after all we just passed the theatre.
Close by is the Sibiu County Department of the National Archives of Romania. And artists have displayed their works for sale right opposite the building.
All eyes on us: See-(v/b)iew as Sibiu is pronounced!
All around us are houses with attic windows that are designed to look like eyes. It is no wonder then that Sibiu has the appropriate moniker: The city of eyes.
All eyes are on our local guide as well as she is proudly dressed in a dark green traditional costume. Apparently she is an award winning Romanian guide. She waits for us in the arched passage featuring a cobbled floor and white walls, characteristic of the town's historical passages and alleys. The passage leads into the vibrant town square, the Piata Mare (Big Square),.
Distinct German logic, reason and the fine arts
Brukenthal Palace appears before us. What used to be the house of the Governor of Transylvania is now Romania’s first museum. It includes the Pharmacy Museum, the museum of Hunting and the museums of History, Romanian art and Contemporary art.
Just across the museum is Sibiu City Hall, featuring ornate architectural details in facades and balconies,a cupola and the attic windows.
We also happen to walk around the coat of arms of Sibiu, embossed on metal, embedded on the ground.
Steeped in history
The steeple of the Lutheran Cathedral of Saint Mary looms before us. Adding to its Gothic architecture is the fact it served as a burial place for important figures in Sibiu society until the 18th century. Way out another landmark stands out: Saint John's Church with its distinctive bell tower
The invaluable craftsmen
As we pound the cobblestones we come across a curiosity: a pole with tools, buttons and nails stuck to it. It is called the Journeymen's pole. The items were left behind by traveling craftsmen to symbolise not only their craft but also their journey. The building it fronts used to house these men and served as a workshop
There's also a German-language high school, named after Samuel von Brukenthal, who served as the governor. The school has a long history, starting in the 14th century making it the oldest German-language school in Romania. The present building is not in its original site but on that of an earlier educational institution. You wouldn't know since that's how subtle the restoration work in Sibiu is.
A tableau appears
Walking through another archway we greeted with a vista of the lower town with its sloping paths and stairways and arches.
Bridge of lies
Several steep streets and stairways lead from the Lower to the Upper Town and. One of them, a steep incline, passes beneath the "Bridge of Lies" - a popular meeting place among the locals even though it's rather lonely today.A bridge like you see in other parts of Europe with lovers locks on the railings? Not exactly.
Be warned, though. The bridge will collapse as soon as anyone tells a lie while expressing love or making a trade deal while on it.
Rest assured. These are just legend legends. The Germans called the bridge Liegenbrücke. It translates to ‘lying bridge’ describing the fact that it has no supporting pillars.
Will I miss it?
Since we started our walk in Sibiu the Trinity Catholic Church has caught my eye. I wanted to enter but we are busy moving on to other sights. By the time our tour guide leaves us on our own I begin to despair. Will I ever get to see the interior? The cathedral entrance is elusive. We hardly see anyone entering or leaving and the people we ask about it do not know! And then we see some people leaving and I quickly move to the spot and enter. I'm not disappointed. Some Worshippers remain seated, while others are getting ready to leave. So I quickly take in the ornate decorations, murals, pink columns, ceiling frescoes and the intricate stone carvings and the organ
Twilight zone
That night we are to stay in Sibiu. As soon as we check in, we leave for the Old town again because we do not want to miss the sunset. We simply enter the fortress and head west as far as we can go until we hit a wall in the upper town. The sun has almost set casting a golden glow over the red brick walls. Little was I prepared for the surrealistic spectacle with arches framing views. We were actually at the Stairs Passage, a third fortification ring made up of arches and stairs around the Protestant Church. It served as an important link between the upper and lower towns.
As we returned to the hotel, we began to notice how the subtly modern restaurants are getting very busy plying customers with culinary delights while soaking in the old town charm.
Sibiu is soo- beayu-tiful. The dormer eyes which never close trading their sight over the precious heritage!
No comments:
Post a Comment
Comments are welcome