Dumbstruck by an ancient culture: Cozumel Island, Mexico

Another Caribbean island noted for its beach

The only reason we are here is that we are on a Caribbean cruise. So we arrive at Cozumel with no expectations. The only thing we know is that it is a tiny island off the Yucatan peninsula, Mexico.The name Cozumel was derived from the Mayan "Cuzamil" (also spelled "Cutzmil") or "Ah Cuzamil Peten" in full, which means "the island of swallows" (Spanish: Isla de las Golondrinas). The name evokes a sense of cosiness. The fact that it is in the Caribbean means that, like most other islands in the area, it is known for its beaches, vibrant nightlife, etc. 

Following instincts

On arrival at Puente Langosta, most of the guests rush off either to the beaches or for snorkeling and diving experiences. We have a hearty breakfast to fuel ourselves for whatever else the port has to offer. We walk along the pier apron towards the exit from the Port into the town of San Miguel de Cozumel. Waiting for passengers are rickshaws and taxis. Jeep buggies filled with young party goers whiz by. Cozumel certainly has a roaring tourist business.

Friendly service: My name is Rahul

We know that the island has Mayan ruins because a friendly rotund taxi driver has hailed us with his offer. He is so cheerful and pleasant that we take to him immediately. He declares, “ My name is Raol. You know, like Rahul Gandhi?”  We share a few more snippets that's beyond my recall now!

He explains the island is 28 miles long and 11 miles wide. The coastline of the Southern half of the island has one main ring road. The northern tip of the island is inaccessible because it is covered with dense coastal vegetation. The official language in Mexico is Spanish, however, it is generally possible to communicate with locals in English. Local currency is the Peso but the USD is greatly appreciated.

Pummeled into a new natural seascape

We arrive at a beach that is more rocky than sandy. There are a few tropical trees that seem sculptured into fantastical shapes. Why the atmospheric scene? About 7 years before our visit  Hurricane Emily and then the category 5 Hurricane Wilma passed the Southern coast of Cozumel causing extensive damage to the island from which it is still trying to recover. Cell phone towers, power lines and trees were whipped down. Cars and piers floated away. Houses and roads were damaged. It also caused some damage to the coral reefs.

At the sea side restaurant stands a hefty bull all saddled up. We associate Spain with bulls but in Mexico? Apparently the idea of the bull is not Mayan but something that got included in the island’s local carnival. Now you can take a ride on it for a fee. 

Don't you forget the local animals

As we wind our way along the road towards the Mayan ruins of San Gervasio our driver points at something we pass by. “Did you see that?” , he asks excitedly. I saw only a gray rock, with a fallen tree across it,by a pool, But believing that it must have been something  significant I take a quick shot hoping to see what exactly I had missed. I identified the reptile beautifully camouflaged against a rock ! A crocodile!

Shudders at San Gervasio World Heritage Site

As we enter the ruins we see an iguana in a relaxed posture right in front  of one of the Mayan structures with a few columns and windows. We tend to rush past for we are afraid the relaxed posture might turn into an alert one leading to a pounce.

A little calmer now we are able to take in the surroundings. Ancient paved roads now restored seem to lead into mysterious nooks and corners. From the plaza we walk in the steps of ancient Mayans through a clearing, skipping over and around ancient gnarled roots to a rather strange looking pool surrounded by well layered rocks. We are staring down a cenote. It is a ceremonial sinkhole/natural pit/underground water-filled cavern.There is no guessing what stepping into one would lead to. But for the Mayans it was a crucial  source of fresh water for their rituals and ceremonies. More than that, it was the gateway to the underworld! So it was symbolic of  life and death. I shudder when I imagine the offerings thrown into it: material and human.

Pilgrim center

 Little House is on a side path. An altar occupies  the centre and therefore probably was used for ceremonies.

Yes, Big House next. That building has more to show.it still has the original grass roof and wall murals.

The more the discovery the more the  willies 

And then there is the Tall House,  the central building on a raised platform. It has a pyramid-like structure. Before falling into ruin it had had human faces carved into the steps. Was it a temple dedicated to Ixchel, the goddess of fertility? Many statues were found here. Mayan women from the mainland made a pilgrimage to the island's deity at least once in their lifetime. 

Archeologists found a vaulted tomb in its interior Since the structure is like a platform occupied by only an altar and benches on the top, it is surmised that the structure was used for open air ceremonies in which not only the priests participated, but also a large assembly in the plaza. 

A time to pause and reflect on the passage of time

A culture that spanned 15 centuries starting at 100 BC. Look at how the stones still stand. Imagine what life was like. Imagine the ingenuity and the scale of these structures. Imagine a deep rooted civilization that is slowly giving way to progress. We are humbled by  the fact that 1000s of years ago someone who had a family, who lived, loved, celebrated, mourned, built, farmed lived right here

And just like that we are back in the 21st century.  take a walk along the souvenir stores. From an over bridge we get to see the ubiquitous Light House as well as the main thoroughfare. We wade through the crowds at Monkey Bay resort laid out with blue deck chairs before we call it a day.

Roatan island, Honduras: Paradise Lost to us

Once a dangerous port

As our liner enters the dock at Mahogany we get a glimpse of a ship wreck. We should not be surprised since we are at the largest island in Honduras which is well known for its being in the periphery of the hurricane region. It seldom gets direct hits from the winds for they cross over other landmasses and islands before reaching Roatan.However,The tail end of the hurricanes do bring about periods of high winds and rains. It would have been riskier had we tendered in or come during the rainy season and had one of the big names in cruise liners, Carnival Corporation, not built the port which is for the most part operated by them, making it a popular spot for cruise ships visiting the western Caribbean. 

Avoiding the popular thrills for real life

Roatan is famed for its tropical weather coral reefs, eco-adventures in lush jungles and its beaches. And, hear this. It's known for its sloths! Not being sloths and since we are and not interested in diving or tanning on the beaches we do what we do best. From the cruise centre it is a short walk to the city centre. It is a rainy day.

We are obviously in the centre of the town for we are  at City Hall, in the capital town of Coxen Hole, its name in Spanish right about the entrance, for that is the first language of the 3 Bay Islands, one of which is Roatan. Spanish is the official language. We talk to a well built male who exits city hall and has a few minutes to spare. He is a school teacher. He apologises for the weather that has made it inconvenient for us to explore the town. He tells us that almost everybody speaks English.

And then there is an international bank and a church with beautiful stained glass windows.

Where's the energy and the vibes?

Granted, it's a rainy day. But people are going about the daily chores. The shops are open. We notice that the houses built closer to the shore are on stilts. A walk around the town leads us to a bust. I still haven't got the details about it. Still searching. A kind of war memorial. Then there is the children's playground abandoned on this wet day. Nice photo opportunity  sitting on the hawksbill sea turtles.

Did we miss something?

As we get back to the cruise centre we see young mangrove shoots planted to protect the shore line from erosion and also to protect marine life. We didn't even think of walking over to the beach which is not far off. Its silky sands are not tempting enough. 

Had we gone perhaps we might have come face to face with  the likes of Richard Gere, Michael Douglas, and Cameron Diaz who frequent the island.

Story book and history

We are back at the cruise centre where we come face to face with a pirate instead. Not scary enough for it is after all a figure of a green parrot with a hooked nose, one set of talons gone, donning  a pirate's hat, apparently squawking for attention. Reminds me of Captain James  Cook of Peter Pan. Just next to is a pair of walk in boots. I'm certainly too small for the boots. And I do not belong in the pirate themed bar for I'm a teetotaller!

And then there's a large statue that could be a replica of a Mayan artifact with a detailed headdress and ceremonial robes? But roatan has a pre Colombian history. The inhabitants traded with the Mayan and hence . . . How do they tie up?There's a lot more to learn there!

Could we have done more?

The island is small and there appears to be a local bus station that plies  the outskirts of Roatan. It would have been interesting to take those buses if anyone had been sure of a schedule for it will never do to miss the boat.

Hosur : LIttle England in India

First impressions

We fly to Bangalore for a short trip to spend a few days in Hosur. We land at the airport in Bangalore. Since it is very late at night we only get some idea that it is a huge and beautiful airport with the officers doing credit to their jobs, being obliging and respectful. We have a booked taxi waiting for us outside the airport. Even with directions here and there we still have to check with airport staff now and then. It is a maze that takes us to the open air leaving us to the elements,and then a narrow walkway that thankfully leads to a lift that will take us to the basement with several sections marked with alphabets. We manage to connect with the driver on his phone and wait for him to pick us up at the designated area. He is very friendly. He speaks English. 

Driver knows best

Bangalore is the Silicon Valley of India. It is the capital of the state of Karnataka. We start off on our long drive to Hosur which is in the state of Tamil Nadu. The road leading out of the airport is a world class tolled highway. But once we get close to the city centre we go through the city instead of taking a shorter and less congested route. Why? There has been criminal activity along that stretch. The driver does not want to take a risk at that time of day when help could be far away and so we pass by some familiar buildings like the Vidhana Soudha almost at snail's pace for even at about 11 pm there is a traffic jam. The city sparkles with lights. All the signs are in Kannada (the local language) and English. And then  the signs change to Tamil/English. We have crossed the border into Tamil Nadu. We have left the frenzy and the neon lights behind us and entered a calmer and fresher atmosphere. We pass by several huge industrial buildings. The  distance of 73 km that should have taken us 1 1/2 hrs takes us nearly 3 hours. 

What's in the moniker?

We are visiting Hosur not only because we have family here but also because we like the outskirts of the city for the fresh air from the hills and the dense forests where elephants roam and rivers flow.  With the area's hills, cliffs and the valleys the climate is very cool and pleasant. The cold and cloudy weather resembles that of England. Hence, during the British regime it was referred to as  'Little England'. 

Thanks to the fertile land and good access to fresh water a variety of fruits and vegetables thrive. A walk through the smaller residential areas means coming across fields of tomatoes, cabbages, cauliflower, onions, mangoes, capsicum, carrot, cucumber, beans, coriander leaves, turnips and radishes. Roses are also grown in large numbers. In fact very early in the morning the main thoroughfare is filled with flower vendors with their baskets full of garlands and strung flowers.

The river flowing nearby becomes our favorite spot. Even though the river is said to be highly polluted, and getting to the bank means negotiating through overgrowth and slippery slopes the river and its rocky outcrops offer us fresh air and serenity. Sometimes cattle are given a good scrub in the river and then left to graze in the vicinity. 

An experience 

Our kin encourage us to accompany them to a Thithi Ceremony where food is offered to the departed so that the descendants would be blessed. It would be near running water for the food offering specially prepared for the ceremony has to be let go in it after a priest performs the rituals. We are at the foothill of Dhakshina Tiruppathi temple. The river is fast flowing. Today is the day of offerings and so it is crowded but not as dirty as we expected. We spend the time sitting on the rocks by the bank brushed by the breeze and soothed by the sounds of the river rushing over and around obstacles.

Tribal village schools

We also visit a Tribal village school in one of the several adjacent hills. What a roller coaster ride it was.The children speak Kannada, the language spoken in Karnataka, even though they live in TamilNadu where Tamil is spoken. It is all a matter of history and political changes. They have a smattering of English. The school graciously allows me to teach them a tongue twister after their regular teacher explains to them what the words mean. The older children are excited to repeat “ red lorry, yellow lorry”. They take it all very seriously.

A fast growing city

Hosur is well known in India as a satellite town of Bangalore. Bangalore is an expensive city to live in. It makes sense for young recruits to live in Hosur and then take the shuttle services to and from their workplace in Bangalore. Hence Hosur town has grown in leaps and bounds. 

It is also known for its concentration of manufacturing industries like Tanishq, Tata, Titan, Ashok Leyland, International Aerospace Manufacturing, etc mainly due to its strategic location, infrastructure and government  policies. 

Stunning is all I can say

We leave for the airport 5 hours early to negotiate nasty traffic snarls. Besides, a local overhead bridge is slightly dislodged. Luckily for us only trucks have to make a detour into the city. But when we meet at the other side there is a bottle neck. Going to or from the airport requires at least half a day!

But what a relief to arrive at the terminal where natural materials and sustainability predominate the architecture. The washrooms are being diligently and meticulously cleaned by pleasant employees. They are delighted by our appreciation of their usually thankless job.

 

Notoriety

These are the very forests that were the haunts and then the refuge of the contentiously infamous Santhanakattai Veerappan till he was caught in a major police operation.

Pulsating melting pot: Bucharest, Romania

Herculean grandeur 

Our tour leader drops us at a vast square in the capital city of Romania. Awaiting us is a rotund, cheerful guide. All around us are imposing buildings both in terms of varied architectural details and in terms of size, some being humongous. We have started at Revolution Square and we'll be strolling along Calea Victoriei. The building that looks austere and dignified because of its blackened domes is befitting of the central University library designed by a Frenchman. Glittering just nearby is a glass paneled dome crowning the Romanian state bank. 

The transformation: a gateway to the past

Opposite is the National Museum of Romanian History. Like all the Balkan countries we visited, Romania's history is no less colourful having been ruled or influenced by Ottomans, Germans and Communism. Some ruins are preserved in the original site with horizontal glass panels protecting  them from the ravages of the weather, and from human hands.

Next comes the building that dominates the square with its massive white facade and imposing, majestic tall columns. It is none other than the Royal Palace (built over the ruins of a monastery) which no longer houses monarchs but now showcases the rich art of the region in an opulent interior. It is called the National Museum of Art of Romania.

Resilience: Communism thwarted

Before it stands a unique sculpture: a white spire poking through a black pebble shaped rock. A close look reveals that the spire is made of white marble, and the rock is a metal ring.. It is called the Memorial of Rebirth: The white represents the Romanians and the black the Communistic era that stifled the country. Hence it represents the resilience of Romania, of a people who will always fight for their freedom. 

Centre of Learning and culture

Where learning takes place rebellion seems to follow. We are now walking by university buildings. It is from here that we get a glimpse of an iconic building. It is the Roman Athenaeum. Its architecture stands as a symbol of Romanian culture.  The majestic concert hall's  grand dome and neoclassical design symbolize the city’s artistic spirit. It boasts of having hosted some of the world’s biggest musical names 

Iconic surprises

We walk along a tree lined avenue in the University area towards Lipscani, the historic district in Bucharest known for its cobblestoned streets, even more historic buildings, and a vibrant atmosphere generated by various shops, cafes, and restaurants.  One of the cafés proudly displays Ganesha, the iconic Hindu Elephant God. 

Am I hallucinating?

Integrating the new into the old. 

A striking image makes us stop in our tracks. The architecture of the said building cleverly combines a historic facade (of the ex-secret police headquarters) with a modern glass structure atop. Not surprisingly it was built by an architecture company and it appropriately houses the Union of Romanian Architects. What a creative way to integrate the new building into the preserved facade of the old.

Tucked snugly away from despotic eyes

We are still not far from the huge palace turned into a museum. Next to it is a red brick church with a porch. One of the oldest in Bucharest, it incorporates Byzantine, Oriental and Western architectural elements. It is said to have retained some of the original frescoes after suffering damage from the 1989 revolution.

Quick, hide the churches! 

Why?  The communist era did not favour religion. Worshippers had to be creative to be able to continue their practices and prevent the demolition of the places of prayer. The answer lay in building huge complexes around the churches dwarfing them enough to thwart destructive eyes. 

A respite from the heat

All of a sudden our guide turns into what seems like an arcade similar to those found in Japanese cities but lined with very different and colourful establishments that are mostly cafes and restaurants. The whole pedestrian only street is covered with a glow from the yellow glass( fashionable in Europe during the 19th century tury) roof. There is a quiet dignity about it all.

The passage connects the old town  to Victoria Avenue.

More hidden churches.

We take a different route back to the old quarter and simply amble about. We discover Stravolopolis monastery,  an 18th-century Eastern Orthodox monastery known for its architectural style, which blends Renaissance, Byzantine, Ottoman, and Baroque. “Stavropoleos," in Greek means "City of the Cross".  We are able to have a closer look at the stunning hand-painted frescoes and ornate wood carvings as well as a peaceful courtyard. 

The monastery is known for its Byzantine music choir. It is also known for the largest collection of music books( 8000 ancient volumes) in Romania., 

Next we come across the Church of the Goldsmiths. The golden spire of this Orthodox Church was built by the goldsmiths. The white walls, red brick accents, a central large dome and four smaller domes looks like it belongs in a fairytale.

A few steps away is the stunning Zlătari Church, notable for housing the relics of Saint, specifically his preserved right arm, which is believed to have the power to lift curses and spells. 

 From Safekeeping to Showcasing

Across the street  stands the CEC Palace in all its glory : a grand façade and impressive glass and metal dome dominating the scene. The interior is no doubt as lavish as the ornamental details on the outside. Built in the 1900s by a French architect it was meant to serve as the headquarters of the House of Savings and Consignments Safeguarding Romania's rich art and documents. It no longer serves  as a vault.  It has, over the years, hosted various businesses and government offices, including the Senate. Today the iconic building is a cultural hub, for it not only houses a museum and art galleries but also hosts exhibitions  which was  CEC).

No clue

Close by is an excavation site covered with sheet glass. I still do not know much about its importance but it does help boost the image of a museum.

Popular 'food' street

For dinner  we are taken to the street which is said to be full with a variety of cuisines in the plethora of restaurants and cafes. It is near the Cocor Shopping centre for which we don't care  very much except for its facade which has a row of screens along its walls . These screens use livestreaming simultaneously. 

Nepali shocker

We look for a restaurant. Our friends find a Nepalese restaurant and we walk into a narrow space with black tables and chairs. Our table is closest to the cashier and we have a view of the entrance to the kitchen. Asking for some of the items displayed in the menu only drew blanks. They ordered the basic leavened bread with the most basic side dish. We waited. We prompted. We waited. Nothing remotely reassuring. We waited. Still nothing! Time is running out. We have to meet our fellow travellers in a few minutes. There would be no time to eat. We threaten to leave since we are to meet our fellow travellers soon. We ask for parcels. They hurriedly put together something and hand it over. DrInk and I had spotted a bakery on our way to the restaurant. I had some local currency left that I did not want to take back home. The exchange would not be favourable for such a meager amount. The pastries were just the right price. We always feel safe eating vegetarian pastries when traveling. And so we ate those. 

It is only upon returning to the hotel that our friend discovers he has paid a hefty sum for specialty fare that did not even meet minimum standards. It is too dry and tasteless. A wishy washy job altogether. 

Just as we leave we spy another church  that seems to fit into a frame close to us making it a photo option. Research tells me it is Bărăția Church. The structure indicates its non Orthodox. The Roman Catholic Franciscan brotherhood founded its first church here in 1314.

 

An ubiquitous symbol

We meet our tour leader at  the statue of the dog. Wrong! It's a wolf. Called the Capitoline Wolf, the statue is a well-known symbol of Rome's founding myth that of a she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus, the legendary founders of Rome. 

If you find replicas of this statue in other countries in Europe it is because they have Latin roots like Romania which has gifted them the pieces.

Spinning, shooting and dancing

We drive along the avenue that stretches for almost a kilometre, with massive water features in the center around the roundabout, lining the main streets and leading up to the Palace of the Parliament. We are too early for the nighttime show when jets of water shoot skyward, the fountains lit by  swirling illuminated by a phantasmagoria of colours  perfectly synced to music of different kinds. These musical fountains are unique to Bucharest. 

Too big for the lens

We arrive at the Palace. It is huge. Our tour leader gives us a few minutes to take pictures. Very few of us are interested because the day is fading, the gardens surrounding the building are out of bounds. And, some construction work is obstructing our view. 

Controversial:Colossal cost, weight and proportions

Anyway the Palace is so huge our camera lenses couldn't possibly capture it in one shot! After all this is Europe's Largest Administrative Building: it houses the Romanian Parliament. It is the heaviest in the world.

It has a rather absorbing history. The Romanian communist dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu, commissioned the building. The Palace  with more than 3000 rooms was intended to symbolize the success of communism in Romania. It is said his wife had a hand in the opulent interior decoration. 

Ceaușescu's legacy did not turn out to be a crowning glory, since he was overthrown and executed( the hearing lasted less than an hour)before its completion. 

Could have been in Paris

What with French architects in the little Paris in the city centre we end our visit with a passing glance of the grand Triumphal Arch, a miniature of  the Parisian Arc de Triomphe, but Romanian without a question for the intricate sculptures are reminders of the country’s  history and mythology. After all, it was built in 1936 to celebrate the country's victory in WWII.

Reflection

The day ends on a sunset reflecting from the glass walls of an adjacent building. It is the last day of our Balkan tour. Massive government buildings, ornate churches, and stately museums vie each other to create an identity for a country that is swiftly recovering from the suffering under communism