Herculean grandeur
Our tour leader drops us at a vast square in the capital city of Romania. Awaiting us is a rotund, cheerful guide. All around us are imposing buildings both in terms of varied architectural details and in terms of size, some being humongous. We have started at Revolution Square and we'll be strolling along Calea Victoriei. The building that looks austere and dignified because of its blackened domes is befitting of the central University library designed by a Frenchman. Glittering just nearby is a glass paneled dome crowning the Romanian state bank.
The transformation: a gateway to the past
Opposite is the National Museum of Romanian History. Like all the Balkan countries we visited, Romania's history is no less colourful having been ruled or influenced by Ottomans, Germans and Communism. Some ruins are preserved in the original site with horizontal glass panels protecting them from the ravages of the weather, and from human hands.
Next comes the building that dominates the square with its massive white facade and imposing, majestic tall columns. It is none other than the Royal Palace (built over the ruins of a monastery) which no longer houses monarchs but now showcases the rich art of the region in an opulent interior. It is called the National Museum of Art of Romania.
Resilience: Communism thwarted
Before it stands a unique sculpture: a white spire poking through a black pebble shaped rock. A close look reveals that the spire is made of white marble, and the rock is a metal ring.. It is called the Memorial of Rebirth: The white represents the Romanians and the black the Communistic era that stifled the country. Hence it represents the resilience of Romania, of a people who will always fight for their freedom.
Centre of Learning and culture
Where learning takes place rebellion seems to follow. We are now walking by university buildings. It is from here that we get a glimpse of an iconic building. It is the Roman Athenaeum. Its architecture stands as a symbol of Romanian culture. The majestic concert hall's grand dome and neoclassical design symbolize the city’s artistic spirit. It boasts of having hosted some of the world’s biggest musical names
Iconic surprises
We walk along a tree lined avenue in the University area towards Lipscani, the historic district in Bucharest known for its cobblestoned streets, even more historic buildings, and a vibrant atmosphere generated by various shops, cafes, and restaurants. One of the cafés proudly displays Ganesha, the iconic Hindu Elephant God.
Am I hallucinating?
Integrating the new into the old.
A striking image makes us stop in our tracks. The architecture of the said building cleverly combines a historic facade (of the ex-secret police headquarters) with a modern glass structure atop. Not surprisingly it was built by an architecture company and it appropriately houses the Union of Romanian Architects. What a creative way to integrate the new building into the preserved facade of the old.
Tucked snugly away from despotic eyes
We are still not far from the huge palace turned into a museum. Next to it is a red brick church with a porch. One of the oldest in Bucharest, it incorporates Byzantine, Oriental and Western architectural elements. It is said to have retained some of the original frescoes after suffering damage from the 1989 revolution.
Quick, hide the churches!
Why? The communist era did not favour religion. Worshippers had to be creative to be able to continue their practices and prevent the demolition of the places of prayer. The answer lay in building huge complexes around the churches dwarfing them enough to thwart destructive eyes.
A respite from the heat
All of a sudden our guide turns into what seems like an arcade similar to those found in Japanese cities but lined with very different and colourful establishments that are mostly cafes and restaurants. The whole pedestrian only street is covered with a glow from the yellow glass( fashionable in Europe during the 19th century tury) roof. There is a quiet dignity about it all.
The passage connects the old town to Victoria Avenue.
More hidden churches.
We take a different route back to the old quarter and simply amble about. We discover Stravolopolis monastery, an 18th-century Eastern Orthodox monastery known for its architectural style, which blends Renaissance, Byzantine, Ottoman, and Baroque. “Stavropoleos," in Greek means "City of the Cross". We are able to have a closer look at the stunning hand-painted frescoes and ornate wood carvings as well as a peaceful courtyard.
The monastery is known for its Byzantine music choir. It is also known for the largest collection of music books( 8000 ancient volumes) in Romania.,
Next we come across the Church of the Goldsmiths. The golden spire of this Orthodox Church was built by the goldsmiths. The white walls, red brick accents, a central large dome and four smaller domes looks like it belongs in a fairytale.
A few steps away is the stunning Zlătari Church, notable for housing the relics of Saint, specifically his preserved right arm, which is believed to have the power to lift curses and spells.
From Safekeeping to Showcasing
Across the street stands the CEC Palace in all its glory : a grand façade and impressive glass and metal dome dominating the scene. The interior is no doubt as lavish as the ornamental details on the outside. Built in the 1900s by a French architect it was meant to serve as the headquarters of the House of Savings and Consignments Safeguarding Romania's rich art and documents. It no longer serves as a vault. It has, over the years, hosted various businesses and government offices, including the Senate. Today the iconic building is a cultural hub, for it not only houses a museum and art galleries but also hosts exhibitions which was CEC).
No clue
Close by is an excavation site covered with sheet glass. I still do not know much about its importance but it does help boost the image of a museum.
Popular 'food' street
For dinner we are taken to the street which is said to be full with a variety of cuisines in the plethora of restaurants and cafes. It is near the Cocor Shopping centre for which we don't care very much except for its facade which has a row of screens along its walls . These screens use livestreaming simultaneously.
Nepali shocker
We look for a restaurant. Our friends find a Nepalese restaurant and we walk into a narrow space with black tables and chairs. Our table is closest to the cashier and we have a view of the entrance to the kitchen. Asking for some of the items displayed in the menu only drew blanks. They ordered the basic leavened bread with the most basic side dish. We waited. We prompted. We waited. Nothing remotely reassuring. We waited. Still nothing! Time is running out. We have to meet our fellow travellers in a few minutes. There would be no time to eat. We threaten to leave since we are to meet our fellow travellers soon. We ask for parcels. They hurriedly put together something and hand it over. DrInk and I had spotted a bakery on our way to the restaurant. I had some local currency left that I did not want to take back home. The exchange would not be favourable for such a meager amount. The pastries were just the right price. We always feel safe eating vegetarian pastries when traveling. And so we ate those.
It is only upon returning to the hotel that our friend discovers he has paid a hefty sum for specialty fare that did not even meet minimum standards. It is too dry and tasteless. A wishy washy job altogether.
Just as we leave we spy another church that seems to fit into a frame close to us making it a photo option. Research tells me it is Bărăția Church. The structure indicates its non Orthodox. The Roman Catholic Franciscan brotherhood founded its first church here in 1314.
An ubiquitous symbol
We meet our tour leader at the statue of the dog. Wrong! It's a wolf. Called the Capitoline Wolf, the statue is a well-known symbol of Rome's founding myth that of a she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus, the legendary founders of Rome.
If you find replicas of this statue in other countries in Europe it is because they have Latin roots like Romania which has gifted them the pieces.
Spinning, shooting and dancing
We drive along the avenue that stretches for almost a kilometre, with massive water features in the center around the roundabout, lining the main streets and leading up to the Palace of the Parliament. We are too early for the nighttime show when jets of water shoot skyward, the fountains lit by swirling illuminated by a phantasmagoria of colours perfectly synced to music of different kinds. These musical fountains are unique to Bucharest.
Too big for the lens
We arrive at the Palace. It is huge. Our tour leader gives us a few minutes to take pictures. Very few of us are interested because the day is fading, the gardens surrounding the building are out of bounds. And, some construction work is obstructing our view.
Controversial:Colossal cost, weight and proportions
Anyway the Palace is so huge our camera lenses couldn't possibly capture it in one shot! After all this is Europe's Largest Administrative Building: it houses the Romanian Parliament. It is the heaviest in the world.
It has a rather absorbing history. The Romanian communist dictator Nicolae Ceaușescu, commissioned the building. The Palace with more than 3000 rooms was intended to symbolize the success of communism in Romania. It is said his wife had a hand in the opulent interior decoration.
Ceaușescu's legacy did not turn out to be a crowning glory, since he was overthrown and executed( the hearing lasted less than an hour)before its completion.
Could have been in Paris
What with French architects in the little Paris in the city centre we end our visit with a passing glance of the grand Triumphal Arch, a miniature of the Parisian Arc de Triomphe, but Romanian without a question for the intricate sculptures are reminders of the country’s history and mythology. After all, it was built in 1936 to celebrate the country's victory in WWII.
Reflection
The day ends on a sunset reflecting from the glass walls of an adjacent building. It is the last day of our Balkan tour. Massive government buildings, ornate churches, and stately museums vie each other to create an identity for a country that is swiftly recovering from the suffering under communism
No comments:
Post a Comment
Comments are welcome