Another Caribbean island noted for its beach
The only reason we are here is that we are on a Caribbean cruise. So we arrive at Cozumel with no expectations. The only thing we know is that it is a tiny island off the Yucatan peninsula, Mexico.The name Cozumel was derived from the Mayan "Cuzamil" (also spelled "Cutzmil") or "Ah Cuzamil Peten" in full, which means "the island of swallows" (Spanish: Isla de las Golondrinas). The name evokes a sense of cosiness. The fact that it is in the Caribbean means that, like most other islands in the area, it is known for its beaches, vibrant nightlife, etc.
Following instincts
On arrival at Puente Langosta, most of the guests rush off either to the beaches or for snorkeling and diving experiences. We have a hearty breakfast to fuel ourselves for whatever else the port has to offer. We walk along the pier apron towards the exit from the Port into the town of San Miguel de Cozumel. Waiting for passengers are rickshaws and taxis. Jeep buggies filled with young party goers whiz by. Cozumel certainly has a roaring tourist business.
Friendly service: My name is Rahul
We know that the island has Mayan ruins because a friendly rotund taxi driver has hailed us with his offer. He is so cheerful and pleasant that we take to him immediately. He declares, “ My name is Raol. You know, like Rahul Gandhi?” We share a few more snippets that's beyond my recall now!
He explains the island is 28 miles long and 11 miles wide. The coastline of the Southern half of the island has one main ring road. The northern tip of the island is inaccessible because it is covered with dense coastal vegetation. The official language in Mexico is Spanish, however, it is generally possible to communicate with locals in English. Local currency is the Peso but the USD is greatly appreciated.
Pummeled into a new natural seascape
We arrive at a beach that is more rocky than sandy. There are a few tropical trees that seem sculptured into fantastical shapes. Why the atmospheric scene? About 7 years before our visit Hurricane Emily and then the category 5 Hurricane Wilma passed the Southern coast of Cozumel causing extensive damage to the island from which it is still trying to recover. Cell phone towers, power lines and trees were whipped down. Cars and piers floated away. Houses and roads were damaged. It also caused some damage to the coral reefs.
At the sea side restaurant stands a hefty bull all saddled up. We associate Spain with bulls but in Mexico? Apparently the idea of the bull is not Mayan but something that got included in the island’s local carnival. Now you can take a ride on it for a fee.
Don't you forget the local animals
As we wind our way along the road towards the Mayan ruins of San Gervasio our driver points at something we pass by. “Did you see that?” , he asks excitedly. I saw only a gray rock, with a fallen tree across it,by a pool, But believing that it must have been something significant I take a quick shot hoping to see what exactly I had missed. I identified the reptile beautifully camouflaged against a rock ! A crocodile!
Shudders at San Gervasio World Heritage Site
As we enter the ruins we see an iguana in a relaxed posture right in front of one of the Mayan structures with a few columns and windows. We tend to rush past for we are afraid the relaxed posture might turn into an alert one leading to a pounce.
A little calmer now we are able to take in the surroundings. Ancient paved roads now restored seem to lead into mysterious nooks and corners. From the plaza we walk in the steps of ancient Mayans through a clearing, skipping over and around ancient gnarled roots to a rather strange looking pool surrounded by well layered rocks. We are staring down a cenote. It is a ceremonial sinkhole/natural pit/underground water-filled cavern.There is no guessing what stepping into one would lead to. But for the Mayans it was a crucial source of fresh water for their rituals and ceremonies. More than that, it was the gateway to the underworld! So it was symbolic of life and death. I shudder when I imagine the offerings thrown into it: material and human.
Pilgrim center
Little House is on a side path. An altar occupies the centre and therefore probably was used for ceremonies.
Yes, Big House next. That building has more to show.it still has the original grass roof and wall murals.
The more the discovery the more the willies
And then there is the Tall House, the central building on a raised platform. It has a pyramid-like structure. Before falling into ruin it had had human faces carved into the steps. Was it a temple dedicated to Ixchel, the goddess of fertility? Many statues were found here. Mayan women from the mainland made a pilgrimage to the island's deity at least once in their lifetime.
Archeologists found a vaulted tomb in its interior Since the structure is like a platform occupied by only an altar and benches on the top, it is surmised that the structure was used for open air ceremonies in which not only the priests participated, but also a large assembly in the plaza.
A time to pause and reflect on the passage of time
A culture that spanned 15 centuries starting at 100 BC. Look at how the stones still stand. Imagine what life was like. Imagine the ingenuity and the scale of these structures. Imagine a deep rooted civilization that is slowly giving way to progress. We are humbled by the fact that 1000s of years ago someone who had a family, who lived, loved, celebrated, mourned, built, farmed lived right here
And just like that we are back in the 21st century. take a walk along the souvenir stores. From an over bridge we get to see the ubiquitous Light House as well as the main thoroughfare. We wade through the crowds at Monkey Bay resort laid out with blue deck chairs before we call it a day.
No comments:
Post a Comment
Comments are welcome