Firth and Brun: Invergordon & Inverness, Scotland

Feeling at home

My love for the English language so artistically used to open up worlds of imagination, creating a better sense of the cultural scene was definitely more than invigorated by our visit to Inverness.

I have been to Sir Walter Scott's residence, now turned into a museum, where I was overwhelmed by his huge collection of books and his armoury. A typical English picnic from a wicker basket, sitting with a Scots friend, close to an old stone bridge on the banks of the River Tweed was an unforgettable experience.

The Frith: portending surprise

Now, after nearly 30 years I am back in this area of Scotland,  gateway to the Highlands, the United Kingdom's northernmost city, on a cruise. We are to dock at Invergordon. But where is the dock? Shrouded in fog it sits right beside one of the several oil rigs about a mile from the shore.  A bridge connects it to the mainland.  We are actually in a deep water inlet called a frith in Scottish and I have come across this word in British poetry. It derives from the Old Norse word fjǫrthr, meaning "fjord".There is a dock closer to the town but other ships are already docked there. We wait for shuttles to negotiate the mile that used to  be a wooden bridge, the Salter Pier, to transport ore to the aluminum smelter.

Impact of tourism on locals 

Most of our fellow passengers have left on excursions to Loch Ness. We are more interested in the countryside than in the elusive monster. Invergordon promises to be very interesting indeed, but Inverness is not far away. We have to take either the bus or the train.There's some speculation that the buses will be too crowded. But we do not know how frequent the train is either. Besides, the bus stop is closer to us than the railway station. It takes a while. The crowd has thinned, opting to take the train instead. I get on the bus that arrives soon enough and find a seat. As the bus pulls off and the idyllic undulating, verdant countryside dotted with lakes passes by, I share an observation with my seat mate. She is a local going to the city for the day. She is very pleasant. I gather that locals do complain when cruise lines are in town and take up the space in the local buses. However the city does increase the frequency during times of high traffic

Inverness library welcomes

The bus terminates in Inverness. The first thing I see is the library, something I can't resist. What an exciting place, with colourful enticing posters and literature displays all capped by cheerful librarians.

Macbeth: I am afraid to think what I have done;

                Look on't again I dare not.

And then it is an easy walk into town. A crenellated castle,on a cliff top, looking very new, beckons. After all, this is Scotland, and there's bound to be some intrigue.  The building we see today was built in 1834.  It has been rebuilt several times. It's believed that  the very first castle was built in the 11th century by King Malcolm III.  Following that another was built in its place in the mid 16th Century. Mary, Queen of Scots, besieged it when the castle governor shut the gates on her, refusing entry, only to have it recaptured in 3 days! And how did she acknowledge the governor's hospitality? By hanging him. And if that rings a bell, yes, it is the story of Macbeth killing King Duncan, his host. I'm excited to be in the castle even though it is the latest version built to accommodate a courthouse. Besides, it is not open  to the public. Why am I excited?  Macbeth is my all time favourite among Shakespeare's plays. 

The Brun

The grounds and the garden are well kept. We get a good view of the city of Inverness. We are looking over the river Ness, a brun, for that is the Scottish word for a small stream or river. The name "Inverness" comes from the Gaelic "Inbhir Nis," meaning "mouth of the River Ness". 

The river is fast-flowing and known for its clear waters, which are an ideal environment for salmon and trout. Islands in the river are connected to the banks with Victorian suspension bridges. 

The value of soot

Back in the town, on Castle St we encounter more historic buildings blackened by decades of soot which actually protect the original stone from decay. One of the buildings is Merchant House.

Adding to the gothic

Walking along the bank of the brun we come across the gothic styled St Mary's church with traceried windows which tempts us to explore its graveyard.

Yet another church, the Old High Church, the oldest Church in Inverness has a strange looking gate in its yard that opens into a square enclosure with a row of columns. It is actually a Mausoleum. The site had once been where Jacobites were imprisoned or executed.

 But not all is gloom

On the other side of the river bank the spires of the Free North Church form an indomitable presence seemingly cleaned of all grime.

And then there is the Town Hall, an example of Victorian Gothic architecture, all cleaned up and majestic.

The market turned arcade

Like most towns, Inverness had an 1870 open-air market subject to the elements. It has since become a covered market to protect traders and customers from the sometimes inclement weather. The red iron work arches highlight the Victorian architecture.

I'm back at the library but it's time to return to Invergordon. Why not take the train this time? A good decision.

The walls speak

This town has murals everywhere, mostly depicting war themes. There is a total of 11 murals representing the cultural heritage derived from being in a strategic position for historic naval matters and as a gateway to the Highlands. The residential areas exude a cultural charm. 

Near the pier is Natal Gardens commemorating the HMS Natal that sank in 1915. The garden is aesthetically appealing. The  neatness the says much of the gardeners, efforts.

Kailua-Kona, Hawaii: volcano, coffee and IRONMAN

Kona: Coffee or town? Which town?

Our liner anchors off the coast of Hawaii Island/ Big Island, 51% of the landmass of which is taken up by five volcanoes of which Mauna Loa is not only the largest but also one of the world's most active volcanoes. There is no smoke or tremor as we arrive. Our cruise ship wouldn't be here if it was a threat for now.

We are on the leeward side of the island,i.e. on the west coast at a town called Kailua-Kona. Every Hawaiian island has a Kona for it is the Hawaiian word for leeward. It's perfect for a safe tender transfer from the ship to the pier. From the liner our tender sails smoothly towards the pier offering views of the coastline, graced with palm trees against the green mountains in the near distance.The gentle waves of the vibrant blue sea is perfect for kayakers. A heaven for ocean enthusiasts. Not a sign of wrenching on board as it sometimes happens in rough seas.

Engulfed in tropical flora and ocean sounds

The pier is right in the town which happens to be the historic Kailua village. Our sea legs steady themselves on the land. Our senses are heightened to the sounds, smells and sights. The wandering begins. Within a few meters is a distinctive stone tower and wooden boardwalk. We are in the Kona Inn Shopping Village, a historic village. Built from the original Kona Inn, the buildings have an unmistakable colonial look with stone facades and heavy wooden doors. The Hawaiian charm is alive and well in the open air facility in spite of the modernity.

A palm tree on the water?

We stroll along Alii Drive along the shore. A small hut, replete with a palm tree, sitting on a floating platform, draws our attention. It doesn't look like a home for it has a wind turbine and several small watercraft in the likes of mini-submarines or pedal boats, lined up at the edge. It is an island base to enjoy water activities like snorkeling, water sports, etc. 

The shoreline has a mix of white sand, strewn with bits of coral, and dark lava stones. A slim white lighthouse appears above the trees in the far distance accentuating the idyllic atmosphere. 

And then a zebra dove, calmly watching us, with a slight turn of its head, extending its hospitality!

Spirituality and peace in the atmosphere

A few minutes away stands the spire of the oldest Catholic Church (Mokuaikaua Church) in the Hawaiian Islands. Damage from earthquakes have resulted in replacement of the old buildings. What we see today has Polynesian carvings. The huge sliding windows let in ocean breezes that gently brush our cheeks and ruffle hair. How uplifting and peaceful to be sitting in there in the arms of nature! The landscaped grounds aptly add to the aura.

Sanctity strictly protected

A sign tells us we are at the Haleokane (House of God). The grounds and pond are designated as sacred and hence strictly no trespassing. So too are drinking alcoholic beverages, smoking, and the use of illegal drugs prohibited on the premises.

Another sign indicates a burial site that is also sanctified and protected by local laws. The little landscaped plot of land, under the shade of an arbour,  marked out by rocks . Traditionally the washed bones of the dead are wrapped carefully and buried under the rocks.

Yet another sign  indicates  an imu, which is a traditional Hawaiian pit dug into the ground that uses heated volcanic rocks to slow cook (in trapped steam) large quantities of meat or root vegetables wrapped in banana leaves. (We had a taste of it in Samoa which I will write about in another post.)

History through landmarks

We pass by  Huliheʻe Palace, a former vacation home for Hawaiian royalty in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. Built in 1838, the palace is now a museum showcasing Victorian artifacts and royal regalia from the era of King Kalākaua and Queen Kapiʻolani. Built of rubble lava rock and furnished with wooden furniture, it features a mixed architectural style, Georgian and traditional, adapting to the local climate. 

We felt that we could learn about Hawaii's history from other sources better than visiting the six rooms for what we believe is a hefty fee.

Huge trees in the vicinity provide the much-appreciated shade.

Too many for our liking

Within a few minutes  we are in yet another commercial hub which doesn't look like one from afar. It is  the Coconut Grove Marketplace. look out for falling coconuts for these trees are everywhere! The area is made up of multiple retailers and restaurants. We are not really impressed by the multiple retailers and restaurants. Most of all we want to steer clear of what we perceive to be unsavoury characters and too many retailers to choose from even to windowshop.

Naive? Lost your bearings? Coffee?

Why not wait at the bench outside Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. Restaurant so invitingly close to us? The theme of the restaurant is based on Forest Gump, the movie.  Hence the replica of the seat upon which Forest Gump sat on when he famously said, ” I am Forrest, Forrest Gump. . .”

Perhaps we should be sipping a cup of the world renowned robust Kona coffee

Ah! So, that's what's going on

There are so many people gathered in one particular area that we suspect we are in the midst of an event. There are banners, sales of bicycles and surf boards as well as all the equipment and accessories required for cycling and ocean sports. As we walk towards the pier we pick up on what is going on.

The Kailua Pier which was once the centre of transportation and shipping now serves as a gathering place for ocean activities. It is the starting and finishing point for the IRONMAN World Championship which is due in a few days. Competitors (up to 1,700) are gearing up. Enthusiasts have come in droves.

Hence the festive atmosphere created by organic energy building anticipation whether participant or spectator.  

Run, swim, cycle,catch, drink, and be merry 

Bleachers have been set up for spectators. A marker near the pier indicates another major annual event, the international Billfish Tournament. And then there is a series of banners of people who have probably won the races. I suppose there is no starting or ending point for the annual Kona Coffee Festival which is Hawaii's oldest food festival! 

All said and done, the weather, the history and the celebratory atmosphere do leave us with a feeling that this is a happening and happy place.

Suva, Fiji: Vibrantly multi-ethnic

Bula Melaya: A Polynesian welcome at the capital city of Suva.

Our cruise liner is welcomed by a local band. I'm sentimentally captivated by the song because I recognise the word Melaya, the country in which I was born and raised. To this day I do not know if the word really refers to the country. Another troupe gives us a send-off performance on the pier later that evening.

What an array! Suva Municipal Market

The local market is usually a good representation of the social and cultural make up of a country.  Entering the market more than confirms what little we knew about Fiji, especially that it is multi ethnic and has a large Indian population (⅖ of the total). The ground floor with vendors selling almost every household good imaginable is manned by Polynesians, Chinese, Indians and Fijians speaking the various dialects. 

Vibrant colours and flavours titillate. There's bundles and bundles of taro root, Indian spices, shellfish, mountains of pineapple, etc. To cap it all, some stalls closer to the bus station sell Indian deserts. It is even more evocative for us since it is close to Deepavali, a festival of lights celebrated by Hindus all over the world.

We skip the Curio & Handicraft Centre and the more modern Flea Market which would have been interesting had we not wanted to spend more time exploring the rest of Suva.

The Royal walk: Presidential Palace

We walk by the Presidential Palace (Government House)which is guarded at the gates by a fierce looking Fijian soldier attired in a starched white sulu(a buckled wrap around)  and a red tunic. Apparently, the changing of the guards happens only once a month. Not our day.

A vivified tree 

We are now walking near a tree towards Thurston Park ( Suva Botanical Gardens). About 200 meters from where the sentry stands we are stopped in our tracks by a strange odor, a chatter and a flapping. Lo and behold, we are right under a large colony of flying foxes(fruit bats) roosting upside down! What could be more apt than wild life in the natural gardens! The walk along the park’s trails and manicured lawns brings us very close to the natural beauty of the island’s native flora, including tropical trees, palms, ferns, colorful gingers and water lilies. There is also a pavilion and a clock tower, a historic landmark of the Victorian era.

One of the amenities of the gardens, the drinking fountain, had been  presented by Henry Marks for the use of the public visiting these gardens 1914.

Unmistakably British: Administration and recreation

Parliament House and other government buildings are fronted by Albert Park, named after Queen Victoria's consort. The land on which these stand has a very interesting history. It was a swamp dotted with shacks well known for prostitution. It has been transformed into a general recreational park with a cricket ground and tennis courts.

Incredible but true: insane but safe.

Albert Park is most renowned for a 1928 dare devil landing by Charles Kingsford Smith (the first to fly across the Pacific). He took off from Hawaii with the necessary personnel for radio contact and navigation in his plane, the Southern Cross. He had not an inkling about the area in Suva where he proposed to land. It was precisely where stood a row of sturdy trees right in the  middle of Albert Park.  

If not for the radio station manager who persisted, in spite of the opposing authorities, that the governor allow the felling of the said trees and level the land with rocks and sand to create a safe landing strip, the landing would have been disastrous. Even telephone poles had to be lowered and more trees cut to ensure a safe landing of the Southern Cross. Incredibly the plane had no breaks. It was almost at the end of the hastily made strip. It had to be turned around at a right angle to bring it to a stop.

A refuge

One of the coolest places to be on a hot day is definitely a cathedral.

The Sacred Heart Cathedral aka the Cathedral of Suva, is Fiji’s most prominent  Roman Catholic building. It took 40 years to build. The grand neo-Gothic design incorporates Australian sandstone blocks, concrete staircases and balustrades, and two towers. On the central stained-glass window above the altar is an image of a bilo (coconut shell cup used in local rituals) beneath the Sacred Heart of Jesus.  

The spires of a Hindu temple beckon

As we walk the streets we spy a Hindu temple with its domes and spires peeking above the foliage on a hill. It seems to be just outside of town. We walk in the general direction of the temple to explore but we find our way blocked in every direction.  But on one of the inner roads we come across a print shop run by Indians. We have a lovely chat with them. They tell us the temple is not easily approachable by foot. We abandon the idea

Getting local

We decide to see more of the town by taking a town bus. This takes through some of the arterial roads and quieter ones.

We pass by the government to buildings and the various parks. Most of the land along the coast had been reclaimed. But some buildings like Carnegie Library were built in 1909 on an existing waterfront site. As the name says it, Andrew Carnegie's philanthropy made the public library possible. The building is now called Suva City Carnegie Library.

We also drive by the old Town Hall, distinguished by its balconies and ornate ironwork which exemplifies colonial architecture. Most of the private homes and commercial buildings also exhibit the same traditional architectural style, specifically a traditional-style with a two-story veranda and arches that befits a warm tropical climate. Some older commercial buildings in the city also  feature covered walkways and upper-level verandas.

Victoria Parade

We are back at the esplanade along Victoria Parade most of it on reclaimed land retained by a sea wall. Originally an unpaved street with only a row of raintrees between it and the shore. As the sea receded more and more land was reclaimed. 

We meet an ethnic  taxi driver taking a break from work. We exchange a few pleasantries and then enjoy the breeze. 

An urban environment with modern and older buildings

As the sun begins to set we walk back to the city centre. We find ourselves at Terry Walk in a canal area. On one side the building's veranda space has a whole series of arcs and pillars that make it look like the verandahs surrounding a middle eastern Palace. It  is a pedestrian walkway alongside a canal, next to the TappooCity shopping complex. The walk features tropical landscaping, including various flowering plants and palm trees. The malls and commercial centres have taken on a festive atmosphere with music and decorations looking forward to the Festival of Lights.

Suva may have become a modern city, but its uniqueness in the old coexisting with the new, the amount of land reclaimed and its seemingly comfortable cosmopolitanism has us endeared to it.

Dravuni island, Fiji: Population 125

Who would have thought?

Cruises take us to places we wouldn't have thought of in our wildest dreams, especially in remote and inaccessible parts of the world that would require special effort and a rather undaunting adventurous spirit to travel to. We are in the Kadavu Island group of Fiji.

A huge ship at a teensy weensy island 

Here we are on Dravuni Island. We have to tender from the ship. We step onto a pontoon and sway into the island's beautiful and welcoming quaint village.This volcanic island is only two km long and 0.5 km wide. The population of the island is less than two hundred. The cruise passengers are 5 times that. Gladly, the various cruise visits have not corrupted the indigenous culture.  We definitely must ensure that we are not in any way a threat to the natural environment. 

Not your typical tourist destination

There are no paved roads into the interior. There are no ATMs. The village has a school where donations of stationery and books are not accepted. There is no power grid. I want to believe every penny made from tourism goes into conservation.

The summit: take a deep breath. . .

We find a trail that leads us between shady trees, small vegetable gardens, pig pens,etc. All very rustic. Then there is a hike uphill which is gentle enough for me. DrInk chooses to nap along the beach while I join umpteen others, including an 80 year old with a trekking pole. As we climb higher the trees are sparse and the slope much steeper. Even the bushes on our trail seem frail. A few of us are attracted to strange looking wild flowers.There are no easy footholds as we near the summit. I huff and puff! I clamber and crawl the rocks that are naturally far and few between.. 

. . .before a breathtaking view 

Once at the summit we are wowed by stunning views of the clear waters, surrounding the island, in shades of turquoise, blues and greens. Snorkellers would have revelled in the coral reefs.

It wouldn't be hard to imagine what the local sun set would look like– the oranges and purples all bringing forth an aura of tranquility.

 

Non chalance

The villagers are friendly even as they contentedly go about their chores. 

Locals ply us with home-cooked meals, crafts and coconuts for a nominal price. We gladly sip and savour young coconut sitting under the swaying  trees and then along the sandy beach. 

Other tourists have sailed to the outlying islands and reefs.

What is it like 10 years hence?

Does it remain unspoiled? Our trip was 10 years ago. The island may have modern facilities now. I hope Fiji has found a way of bettering the lives of the villages without blemishing its unique characteristic.