Kona: Coffee or town? Which town?
Our liner anchors off the coast of Hawaii Island/ Big Island, 51% of the landmass of which is taken up by five volcanoes of which Mauna Loa is not only the largest but also one of the world's most active volcanoes. There is no smoke or tremor as we arrive. Our cruise ship wouldn't be here if it was a threat for now.
We are on the leeward side of the island,i.e. on the west coast at a town called Kailua-Kona. Every Hawaiian island has a Kona for it is the Hawaiian word for leeward. It's perfect for a safe tender transfer from the ship to the pier. From the liner our tender sails smoothly towards the pier offering views of the coastline, graced with palm trees against the green mountains in the near distance.The gentle waves of the vibrant blue sea is perfect for kayakers. A heaven for ocean enthusiasts. Not a sign of wrenching on board as it sometimes happens in rough seas.
Engulfed in tropical flora and ocean sounds
The pier is right in the town which happens to be the historic Kailua village. Our sea legs steady themselves on the land. Our senses are heightened to the sounds, smells and sights. The wandering begins. Within a few meters is a distinctive stone tower and wooden boardwalk. We are in the Kona Inn Shopping Village, a historic village. Built from the original Kona Inn, the buildings have an unmistakable colonial look with stone facades and heavy wooden doors. The Hawaiian charm is alive and well in the open air facility in spite of the modernity.
We stroll along Alii Drive along the shore. A small hut, replete with a palm tree, sitting on a floating platform, draws our attention. It doesn't look like a home for it has a wind turbine and several small watercraft in the likes of mini-submarines or pedal boats, lined up at the edge. It is an island base to enjoy water activities like snorkeling, water sports, etc.
The shoreline has a mix of white sand, strewn with bits of coral, and dark lava stones. A slim white lighthouse appears above the trees in the far distance accentuating the idyllic atmosphere.
And then a zebra dove, calmly watching us, with a slight turn of its head, extending its hospitality!
Spirituality and peace in the atmosphere
A few minutes away stands the spire of the oldest Catholic Church (Mokuaikaua Church) in the Hawaiian Islands. Damage from earthquakes have resulted in replacement of the old buildings. What we see today has Polynesian carvings. The huge sliding windows let in ocean breezes that gently brush our cheeks and ruffle hair. How uplifting and peaceful to be sitting in there in the arms of nature! The landscaped grounds aptly add to the aura.
Sanctity strictly protected
A sign tells us we are at the Haleokane (House of God). The grounds and pond are designated as sacred and hence strictly no trespassing. So too are drinking alcoholic beverages, smoking, and the use of illegal drugs prohibited on the premises.
Another sign indicates a burial site that is also sanctified and protected by local laws. The little landscaped plot of land, under the shade of an arbour, marked out by rocks . Traditionally the washed bones of the dead are wrapped carefully and buried under the rocks.
Yet another sign indicates an imu, which is a traditional Hawaiian pit dug into the ground that uses heated volcanic rocks to slow cook (in trapped steam) large quantities of meat or root vegetables wrapped in banana leaves. (We had a taste of it in Samoa which I will write about in another post.)
History through landmarks
We pass by Huliheʻe Palace, a former vacation home for Hawaiian royalty in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. Built in 1838, the palace is now a museum showcasing Victorian artifacts and royal regalia from the era of King Kalākaua and Queen Kapiʻolani. Built of rubble lava rock and furnished with wooden furniture, it features a mixed architectural style, Georgian and traditional, adapting to the local climate.
We felt that we could learn about Hawaii's history from other sources better than visiting the six rooms for what we believe is a hefty fee.
Huge trees in the vicinity provide the much-appreciated shade.
Too many for our liking
Within a few minutes we are in yet another commercial hub which doesn't look like one from afar. It is the Coconut Grove Marketplace. look out for falling coconuts for these trees are everywhere! The area is made up of multiple retailers and restaurants. We are not really impressed by the multiple retailers and restaurants. Most of all we want to steer clear of what we perceive to be unsavoury characters and too many retailers to choose from even to windowshop.
Naive? Lost your bearings? Coffee?
Why not wait at the bench outside Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. Restaurant so invitingly close to us? The theme of the restaurant is based on Forest Gump, the movie. Hence the replica of the seat upon which Forest Gump sat on when he famously said, ” I am Forrest, Forrest Gump. . .”
Perhaps we should be sipping a cup of the world renowned robust Kona coffee
There are so many people gathered in one particular area that we suspect we are in the midst of an event. There are banners, sales of bicycles and surf boards as well as all the equipment and accessories required for cycling and ocean sports. As we walk towards the pier we pick up on what is going on.
The Kailua Pier which was once the centre of transportation and shipping now serves as a gathering place for ocean activities. It is the starting and finishing point for the IRONMAN World Championship which is due in a few days. Competitors (up to 1,700) are gearing up. Enthusiasts have come in droves.
Hence the festive atmosphere created by organic energy building anticipation whether participant or spectator.
Run, swim, cycle,catch, drink, and be merry
Bleachers have been set up for spectators. A marker near the pier indicates another major annual event, the international Billfish Tournament. And then there is a series of banners of people who have probably won the races. I suppose there is no starting or ending point for the annual Kona Coffee Festival which is Hawaii's oldest food festival!
All said and done, the weather, the history and the celebratory atmosphere do leave us with a feeling that this is a happening and happy place.
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