Out of this world
Hardly a two hour drive from the Ajanta caves (my previous blog) lie the Ellora caves. There is an air of eager anticipation as we have heard of its grandeur and scale. We are rewarded with a long stretch of caves(34 in all) cut high up yet another vertical basalt cliff.The caves sit side by side.
While Ajanta’s masterpieces were completed by the 6th century, Ellora began its story in the 7th century—and continued shaping it through the 11th. Thus the irresistible inference that Ellora is a continuation of the work done in Ajanta. In just two hours we cross from one era to another.
Breathtaking repository of Ancient India
Over a span of 4 centuries generation and after generation of artisans have climbed this cliff and left their handiwork, chipping and chiseling into the rock to create temples, monasteries and sanctuaries.
Ajanta seems tame compared to Ellora which is much larger in scale and bolder in the fine artistic details.
Imagine the tons of rock scooped out to make room for all the carvings inside.
A socio-cultural phenomenon
Three great religions, creative expression, social norms,innovation, craftmanship, structure and technological mastery all converge within a short walk. The religions thrived not just symbolically but also physically.
The 12 Buddhist caves reveal stages in an evolving philosophy of Mahayana Buddhism, not only echoing earlier serene artistic traditions seen in Ajanta but also surpassing them in colour and imagination. More elaborates deities and celestial, beings either sculpted or painted in vibrant colours, adorn the walls and ceilings.
The piece de resistance is the three storied monastery replete with staircases and balconies.
It couldn't have got more spectacular
The 17 Brahminical caves are show stoppers. The one that took my breath away is, without a doubt, Kailasha temple.
The entrance, a tiered gateway, flanked by monumental elephants seemingly standing guard, is already awe inspiring and promises more.
Sure enough, looking up when we enter the front mandapa (pillared hall) we are enthralled by what remains of ancient paintings still clinging precariously to the ceilings — a testament to how the temple was even more vibrant in the days of yore.
That in turn takes us into the open courtyard that suddenly reveals the full scale of the temple — rising from the earth as though it grew there naturally. Incredibly this entire free standing complex was built top down from a single massive rock – Not constructed but carved out to include every architectural detail of a Dravidian temple.
The walls are alive with mythological scenes that seem to come alive in their action oriented captured mid gesture or mid emotion, each palpable
One particularly dynamic sculpture shows Ravana, from the epic Ramayana, attempting to lift Mount Kailasa itself in a display of arrogance and power. This temple represents Mount Kailasa, the spiritual Himalayan abode of Lord Shiva
And yes — some of the depictions are strikingly bold. The expressive forms and mythological intensity might be scandalous to modest eyes, but they also reveal a culture unafraid to explore power, passion, divinity, and humanity in all its forms.
The non-theistic
The last set of 5 caves also display exquisite carving in fine detail and delicate sculptures, and includes fine paintings dedicated to Jainism's Digambara sect focused on spiritual liberation through non-violence, non-attachment , and asceticism. It is non-theistic.
The Ellora caves are a testament to that faith which can shape mountains and philosophy which can find form in stone through human ingenuity guided by devotion.
Returning to the sunlight, the rock face appears unchanged. But we know better now. Inside the caves is a world where belief, artistry, and innovation converge in spell binding harmony.
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