Indubitable Noumea, New Caledonia

Tricked by names and vibes

We  step ashore at the breezy Gare Maritime Terminal. Undeniably very French. Within minutes we are at the markets and cafes of the old town replete with craft stalls , live performances and local flavours, particularly that of Kanak and the Pacific enticing with hand-carved wood objects, pandanus baskets, pottery, and seed/shell jewelry. A short walk away are neat rows of coconut trees along the esplanade.  Even before we leave the pier we get a taste of its culture. We are in Nouméa, the capital of New Caledonia, a French territory in the South Pacific 

The past defines the present

The island was first discovered in the 18th century by James Cook, the renowned British navigator. The terrain resembles that of the mountainous region in his native Scotland, and thus he named it New Caledonia. Soon after the British abandoned the archipelago in the 19th century  the French took over. After that came WW II and the Allied fleets were stationed at this strategic base. Now the harbour has been taken over by cruise liners, like ours: from supply vessels to warships and then cruise passengers.  The Polynesian culture thrives, giving rise to a cultural crossroads.

History through landmarks. 

Noumea is an easy city to navigate. All the landmarks have huge information boards depicting the history and the uniqueness of the structure. Within minutes we find ourselves in St Joseph's Cathedral.

The architectural plan came from an ex-convict! Most of the work on the church was carried out by? Yes, talented, skilled ex-convicts. A beautiful church replete with more that 20 stained glass windows, an organ, a chandelier fashioned in the same way as one found in France, pulpits fashioned the local way, etc. It's a  testament to how remarkable the workforce of the penal colony was. 

Next we approach The Old Temple in Nouméa which was also built with convict labour. The broad staircase belies the modest looking building. But, not so fast. The interior is simple but filled with beautiful carpentry and localised icons.

Transported

The Bernheim Library  has an interesting background. The metal frame on which the building is structured  is actually a pavilion designed by Gustave Eiffel for New Caledonia for an Exposition  in Paris in 1900. The structure was dismantled, shipped to and then reassembled in Noumea. Perhaps that's why the capital is called the Paris of the Pacific.

Transformed

What was the City Hall, which began as New Caledonia's first bank, with its unmistakable colonial architecture - arched windows, wooden shutters, and colonial architecture -  is now a Museum.

Having walked along several streets observing the architectural  variety and  the everyday life of Nouméa with visitors and locals mingling, we take a walk along the 4 km Promenade, along the lagoon,which has different sections each unique in its landscaping, boardwalk and seating. 

Stitched together

This takes us back towards the city centre  and hence Cocotiers Square/Coconut Square. The name is misleading for it is not one huge square but made up of several, each unique in its statuary, fountains, and visitors. One has a colonial era band stand. Another specialises in public events  and markets. Yet another, popular with the locals, has groves. One stands out  for its historical Celestial fountain of 1893 marking the 40th anniversary of France’s annexation. This fountain marks kilometer zero for road distances in New Caledonia.  The square's history is also intriguing. An engineer reclaimed part of  the shoreline and shaped it into a landscaped esplanade along which sprang the squares, stitching together all the quirks of history.

We arrive at the blue tented local markets abuzz with activity and call it a day at the ‘Paris of the Pacific’.