Chiangmai, Thailand: hazed and bedazzled

A continuation of my previous blog: Attuning and reconciliating: Chiangmai, Thailand

Why Chiangmai in particuler

We have visited Thailand several times. The first was a guided tour with a company that took care of flights, local transport, boarding and lodging. The result was a rather cursory look at tourist spots in Bangkok, Ayuthia from a distance ofva few kilometres, Chiangrai and the Golden Triangle where we met tribal folk growing hemp, and then travelled a little further to cook eggs in a hot water spring and watch a border crossing at a small foot bridge across the river on the Myanmar-Thai border.

In the next trip we take a train from Bangkok to Kanchanapuri where the bridge actoss the river Kwai is, have dinner on a barge while watching a laser light  enactment of a train across the bridge accompanied by sounds of war, and then a wax museum depicting the hardships of POWs. Then  it was a walk to neighbouring  Rathnapuri with its hundreds of stalls selling ratna (rubies). I wouldn't be able to spot a fake and I'm not interested in amassing precious stones and so all the sales gimmicks are wasted on my deaf ears.

The third time was with the grand children riding the overnight train from Johore Bharu, Malaysia,  to Bangkok.

We had not been to Chiangmai, the cultural and historic capital in northern Thailand.  and so we planned for Chiangmai, Luang Prabang (Laos), and then Hanoi(Vietnam) – a triangle of sorts. Why we had to forgo Laos and make changes to our plans is explained in a previous blog mentioned above.

Smothered 

We are already exhausted by the time we enter our apartment. What best to do then to nap! it's already dusk by the time we leave the apartment in search of a grocery store. But the heat is still stiflling. At least the little supermarket is air conditioned. The night market stalls are being set up in the dimly lit streets. The smog still envelopes everything. We are not waiting around. As soon as the purchase is done we seek the refuge of our temporary home. 

Vestiges of walls and moats

The exploration begins early the next morning right after a quick breakfast. The non-genuine wares of the street stalls have been put away. We cross a bridge across a canal and almost immediately we are at the moat, lined with shady flowering trees on both banks. Some parts of the moat are covered with lily pads. As the sun rises into a smoggy morning the silhouette of the gates lends a mystical aura. Ancient bridges cross the clean moats at strategic points. Lining one side of one of the moats seems to be a row of modern cafes and eateries. 

At the main gate sturdy bamboo poles are lying about in huge clutches. Work is going on to build a two storey scaffolding to be decorated for the festival of Songkran. The pigeons are having a grand time gawking at visitors slyly hoping to snatch tidbits.

The walled city

We make at least two trips into the old city within the walls. Everywhere we turn are temples. I wonder how many permutations and combinations there are in the type of material used, the traditional motifs, the layouts, etc. We decide to start with a massive structure that bears a resemblance to stupas, abeit a crumbling in places. We are there at day break but only see a very bleary eyed sun. A few men are sweeping the broad paved courtyards. In the centre is a 4 sided base with a sanctum on top of each side. Steps lead up to them but most are blocked off. Some restoration work is going on. But all is quiet and serene for now. A very tall ancient tree watches over the ‘relic’.

Another temple that takes our breath away has ornately decorated white towers. Golden parasols and small bells adorn the top of the tall tower as well as around the smaller towers . What a dance and song! Adding to that, but also contrasting the white, are the roofs of the monastery and halls tiled in red and green. 

Here there is a particular shrine out of bounds to females!

We walk by at least 20 more, each with an immaculate courtyard, a unique entrance – one lined by a dragon on each side, another hung with colourful lanterns, some with walls embossed with  mythical beings and heavenly abodes, and yet another with bonsai or flowering bushes. Sometimes we enter the prayer hall and marvel at the murals whether motifs or tales.

Another has golden chedis with carved elephants. No two temples look alike. 

The one that stuns me more than any other is the teak temple with its elaborate carvings that could easily have taking years to be chiseled and perfected under skilled craftsmen.

In the middle of the old town is a square where stand the Three King's of yore.

Aren't the hill temples a must see?

I call up my new-found friend at the airport to see if she could arrange a ride for us to visit the temples on the mountains surrounding Chiangmai while getting a glimpse of the lush countryside. Unfortunately no one is willing to take us for it is not the season. More importantly the smog not only obliterates views but also harms. 

An evening along the river

Another evening we decide to walk to the river and then walk along it towards the markets. Along the way we see how the old and new coexist. In the narrower streets. We see multi-story mansions and also lean-tos and humble shacks.

The river is clean but there is no way to walk along the banks on our side of the river because most of the property there is private, a few of them taken up by restaurants.

So we cross the river. Now there is an esplanade to walk along. We come upon the very first church built in Chiangmai, and some government buildings. Then we cross the river on another bridge back to our side of the city.

Markets galore

The street lights are already coming up. The rays struggle to cut through the haze. We are now at the large market in the commercial hub. Alongside the road are hundreds of flower stalls and a Chinese temple. The covered market, now nearly empty of people, is dimly penetrated by daylight but I can imagine how bustling it would have been earlier in the day. 

We are assuming that The Night Bazaar would be behind this structure. By night it would be bustling with stalls serving Thai cuisine and others selling local handicraft for Chiang Mai is well known for its vibrant markets and food scene. 

On yet another day,a walk to the other side of the Walled City takes us to what we believe is another bazaar. We have no idea what it looks like. The walk is quite strenous taking us through several narrow streets and along and acrossva canal. Lo and behold,we are at Jing Jai Farmer’s Market! We are lucky indeed for this weekly farmer’s market is open only every Saturday and Sunday from roughly 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m! It is a gloriousfeast for the eyes whether the fresh produce, the food, the pastries or the unique crafts: no gimmicky trinkets or elephant pants here! After the temples this is the most attractive part of Chianmai.

There is even a free electric car ride through the whole market so shoppers loaded with purchases or have tired out may move about with ease.

Once done we board a shared tuk tuk to take us to the bus station from where we know our way ‘home’. We spy a mosque on the way and practically ride all around the moats!

Lost and lonely in the dark

The day before we leave Chiangmai I venture out alone to find the Hindu temple indicated on the map. I sort of checked the map and found the general direction. Most of the streets are familiar because we have traversed them several times. It is still dark when I leave. I'm alright until I leave the moat area. And then everything becomes blurry because the road names do not match that on the map and some street names are only indicated in Thai.

Caution and confusion

There is one particular chicken noodle shop that we have passed by several times and that becomes my land mark. Not wanting to get lost in the almost empty street, with trepidation i approach a young couple getting into a car near a now closed restaurant. They are in deep discussion. Luckily the man speaks English and I tell him where I want to go. I have been going in the right direction. He says it's way past the night bazaar and that it is a circuitous long route that may easily get me lost again. Then he says he is headed in that direction and he would drop me there in his car. 

Ripe for abduction 

Should I trust this well dressed well spoken man? Will I be robbed/abducted?

The woman gets into  the front passenger seat. Who is she? How is she related to him? They are in deep discussion while he drives. I'm not sure if I should take a photo of them.will I be insulting them? I have not taken a picture of the car from the outside. How safe am I? As the sun slowly rises it struggles to penetrate through the haze. I begin to make out the streets and the buildings and try to register them in my brains. The car stops and the gentleman tells me we are just opposite the temple! Yes we are ! I breathe a great sigh of relief trying not to make it so obvious. I probably exaggerated my exuberance at seeing the temple so as to hide my unfounded fears. 

The relief: the anti-climax

Thanking him profusely I enter the temple but it is not open yet. I hang around until it does. The prayer hall is upstairs. The priest is going about with the rites and rituals. Two asian men dressed in shorts, all white, walk in and offer prayers at each of the images the older one praying ardently while also explaining to the younger. All I can do is watch in amazement at their debotion and then turn my attention to the beautiful white ceramic idols adorned in bright silks and costume jewellery. The murals, the rugs, the tapestry and the pillars enhance the ambience.

All's well that ends well.

Noted in the passing;:

A red telephone booth with apparently no purpose at all

Webs of wiring. Like in most developing Asian countries masses of coiled electric wires dangle from posts.

Recycling at Jin Shan market where the public washrooms are well kept.

Buddha-like: a calm and contented couple

In the old city an aged pleasant Indian couple sit in front of their shop selling prayer souvenirs. They are of Indian origin but they speak only Thai and English. They have offerings of fruit and rice for the monks that will come by– a daily happening in predominantly Buddhist countries.

Digital nomads

The eastern area along the Ping River where we are housed is the commercial hub filled with markets an high end hotels.. We meet many digital nomads who live here due to its affordable cost of living, cozy cafés, and slower pace compared to Bangkok.

To be fact checked

Overall, Chiang Mai is a balance of history, nature, and modern comfort, making it popular with tourist and digital nomads. But they had better do something about the smog said to be caused by Thai industrialists who support coal burning power stations in neighboring Laos thet tend to be cheaper than those in Thailand.