Respect for order
The parking area where our driver (refer to an earlier blog about Conflict and Cohesion) drops us off reflects Gdańsk's thoughtful planning and respect for order. As hired cars are not permitted to linger there, he parks neatly along the tree-lined approach road while we set off to explore the magnificent Oliwa Cathedral.
Treated to an amazing one-of-a-kind performance
The soaring Brick Gothic façade gives little hint of the wonder within. As we quietly step into the 107-metre-long cathedral (the longest in Poland), the haunting strains of Shubert's Ave Maria envelope us. We have wandered into one of the cathedral's daily summer organ recitals.
As our eyes adjust to the soft mellow light, they are irresistibly drawn upwards to the cathedral's greatest treasure. Suspended above us is the magnificent Great Organ, a masterpiece of craftsmanship with 7,876 pipes fashioned from oak, fir, pine and tin. Once, it was the largest in Europe. When the recital begins, the cathedral comes alive with a spectacle to remember. Rich notes fill the vast interior as carved cherubs move, raising their trumpets and ringing tiny bells, transforming the performance into a magical spectacle. We are spellbound. For a few moments, we simply stand in silence, rooted to the ground, captivated by the beauty unfolding before us. And then we explore practically on tip-toe. The interior has more than 20 marble and rococo altars, a grand rococo pulpit, and old Renaissance portraits.
From an industrial community to peaceful gardens
As we exit the Cathedral we walk along the side, under the huge shady trees, that leads to the Oliwa gardens. Just behind is a huge building that was once an Abbey in a thriving community founded in the 12th century. For centuries, the monastic establishment harnessed the waters of the Oliwa Stream to power more than twenty mills. Today, the peaceful gardens offer little hint of that industrious past, yet they provide the perfect setting to reflect on a place where history, faith and artistry have blended for over eight centuries.
The Botanical Garden is an oasis with its manicured lawns, tree-lined pathways, and the gentle murmur of a stream creating an atmosphere of serene beauty. A cascading waterfall tumbling over stepping-stone boulders, invites us deeper into tranquility. Around every bend, nature reveals yet another delight—magnificent magnolias, vibrant rhododendrons, and stately spruces. The elegant Palm House takes us into the tropics. And then there is the beautifully crafted rock garden.
One of a kind:6 centuries of history
We drive into Gdańsk's Old Town, where our driver drops us at St. Mary's Basilica and arranges to return in three hours. The vast church, the largest brick church in the world with room for a staggering 25,000 parishioners, dominates the skyline with its imposing Gothic grandeur.
Inside, a soft kaleidoscopic light filters through 37 stained-glass windows illuminating the many chapels. As we wander through the cavernous interior, our eyes are drawn not only upwards but also downwards. Beneath our feet lie sculpted names and dates—we are walking across grave slabs. More than 300 tombstones, of which some are embedded in the floor, are a poignant reminder of 6 centuries of history. There are also artifacts in glass cases on display.
The pièce de résistance is the magnificent 15th-century astronomical clock, an extraordinary masterpiece that not only tells the time but also tracks the date and the phases of the moon. There are two others in Poland: one in Warsaw and the other in Wroclaw.
Gra(i)nary repurposed
Hunger soon catches up with us. As we leave the Basilica, we spot the waterfront and wander towards the embankment along the Motława River. Across the water, rows of handsome Hanseatic buildings reflect the city's rich maritime past.
Looking for a place to enjoy our muffins, we find nowhere to sit on our side of the river. So we continue to the Green Bridge, which leads us to the aptly named Granary Island. The old riverside granaries, reminiscent of Amsterdam's canal houses, have been beautifully transformed into restaurants and hotels. We finally find a bench, settle down, and savour our lunch while watching sightseeing boats glide gently along the river.
The Royal Walk
Refreshed, we cross back over the Green Bridge. The imposing Green Gate welcomes us into the Old Town, opening onto the bustling Long Market. The square is alive with people as we pause to admire Neptune's Fountain, one of the city's most enduring landmarks. It was hidden during WWII.
A little farther on, we encounter a considerable commotion—the very event I described in an earlier blog, referred to above. As a result, the Town Hall is closed to visitors today.
Before moving on, I photograph the imposing former Post Office, unaware at the time that the building has since been converted into a museum. It is o e of the spots where WWII broke out.
Which is which?
There are so many towers and gates that it is difficult to distinguish among them. I walk towards what seems to be a gate. In fact there are two! The first gate I walk through is the gothic 13th century golden gate.
And then the Prison tower and torture chamber of the 14th century stand before me. I only take a peek even though they do not serve the original purpose anymore.Originally built for defense, it later served as a municipal jail, courtroom, and torture site until the 19th century. Then comes the 16th century stone gate, the actual starting point of the Royal Route.
Astonishing Amber
A short stroll through Gdańsk's lesser-known streets brings us to a cluster of shops selling amber jewellery and ornaments, as well as the Amber Museum. Aha! We have wandered onto stone-terraced Amber Street , a charming old lane lined with small boutiques displaying raw resin nuggets alongside beautifully crafted jewellery.
The Amber Museum is said to showcase everything from insects perfectly preserved in amber to exquisite pieces of fine jewellery. Polish amber is estimated to be 40–50 million years old. During winter storms, cold Baltic Sea currents stir the seabed, freeing pieces of amber that are washed ashore, particularly along the beaches near Gdańsk.
Known locally as Baltic Gold, amber has long been one of Poland's most prized natural treasures. It fuelled trade along the ancient Amber Route and brought prosperity to the region for centuries. Even today, Poland remains the world's leading processor of Baltic amber, accounting for around 70% of the global market. Suddenly, these glittering shop windows are no longer merely souvenir displays—they are showcases of a remarkable legacy millions of years in the making.
A Medieval Marvel: The Largest of Its Kind
We approach it from the rear, where it resembles a fortified gateway rather than a crane. Historically, it served both as part of the city's defences and as a powerful lifting device for the bustling port.
Stepping inside, we find ourselves beneath two enormous wooden wheels, each 6.5 metres in diameter. Their purpose is astonishing: men walked inside these giant treadwheels to generate the power needed to lift cargo as high as 30 metres. The crane was also used to raise and install the masts of ships—a remarkable feat of medieval engineering driven entirely by human muscle.
A lasting impression.
Gdansk is a not so crowded walkable city that amazes with its powerful modern history that reflects resilience. Its meticulous post war construction after being flattened in WWII is a reflection of its civic pride.
To be cont'd in part 2
