Athens-like Nafpolion: Greece's first modern capital

Where is it?

Nafpolion is a coastal town lying along the mountainous  Poloponnese region in the peninsula at the southern tip of Greece. Another city on its coast, Kalamata, is renowned for its olives. Nafpolion was the first modern capital of Greece. In fact, I found it easy to draw resemblances to Athens as you shall in the following paragraphs.

it is also referred to as the ‘Naples of the East’ because of the predominant Venetian architecture.

Venetian-Ottoman-Venetian-Greek: shifts and transformations

Our arrival doesn’t begin on land, but on water—the city exposes itself slowly as our tender glides across a glassy, calm sea. Then, almost dramatically, a lone fortress rises into view. Perched on a sliver of island just 450 meters from the harbor, it is close enough to attack and far enough to dominate. It is unmistakably Venetian with its geometrically graceful heavy bastions.

It has lived many lives having stood firm against Ottoman fleets, later taking on somber duties as a place of execution, and—unexpectedly—metamorphed into a luxury hotel in the 1930s. 

But the story doesn’t end at sea level. Looming above the town, the Palamidi Fortress sits atop a 200-meter hill with its legendary 900 steps or so. Just below it rests Akronafplia,which is older still—a Bronze Age stronghold that once enclosed the entire town. Invasion after invasion, empire by empire, the defenses evolved: the Venetians fortified, the Ottomans claimed, the Venetians returned and fortified again. By the early 20th century, these same walls had become a prison, their purpose once again transformed.What was built to repel and confine has softened into something far more inviting—its stones no longer braced for attack, but open to those curious enough to wander through centuries of reinvention.

The moat that was

The city’s moat is now filled with soil instead of water. We enter through the historic Land Gate, first built in the 18th century and rebuilt in the 1970s. A lion sculpture above—symbolizing Venice—still seems to guard the passage between past and present. Once the only land entrance, it was protected by the sea as a natural moat and a wooden drawbridge (now fixed). Those who arrived after sunset were left outside the walls for the night..

From the gate, we walk through a park at the base of the hill, where bursts of green vie against time worn stone walls above us. The path leads us along the coastline where the sea stretches out beside us, bright and inviting. Along the way we pass a stone-enclosed pool: a small, sheltered pocket of water that seems almost cradled by the land.

Eventually, we reach the public beach. Here, the grandchildren rush forward into the Argolic waters, which are so clear that the rocks at the bottom are visible through the shimmering surface. Their laughter carries easily in the open air as they splash and cool off. Afterward, they gleefully rest briefly on the pebbly shore, catching their breath before we continue.

We follow the coastline carved directly into the pinkish rock with red veins as it curves around the fortress. When we arrive at the staircase that leads up to the Palamidi Fortress, we pause but decide against the imposing climb. Instead, we take the longer but gentler 1 km route, circling the base of  the hill along a paved coastal walkway beneath the Akronafplia fortress. 

A Stroll Through the Naples of the East

The route leads us into the old town, where we almost immediately find ourselves wandering through streets that narrow into winding passages. They twist and turn, sometimes opening onto stairways that seem to invite us to slow down and absorb the historic atmosphere. Our pace naturally eases to a stroll as we become enclosed in a maze of charm and history.

All around us stand neoclassical two-storey houses, their arched doorways adorned with delicate Venetian Gothic details set against soft pastel walls. At times, an unexpected Ottoman feature catches the eye, adding another layer to the town’s rich architectural tapestry. Above, wrought-iron balconies overflow with flowers, bringing bursts of colour to the scene.

Every now and then, we come across quaint little shops tucked into corners and narrow spaces, each one adding to the old town’s quiet character. Along one sloping road, the view suddenly opens to the sea. The small, modest houses here hint at the area’s past as a fishermen’s quarter—some of those fishermen, it seems, still call these homes their own.

Domes, bells and towers

As we wander through the winding maze of narrow streets—past a fishmonger here, a greengrocer there—a tower suddenly rises into view, arresting the children’s attention. Its weathered brick base, worn and exposed by time, seems almost humble beneath the structure it supports. Above, the tower soars upward, tier upon tier of bells suspended in quiet anticipation, as though ready to echo across centuries. It belongs to the Church of Panagia, dedicated to the Virgin Mary—though the church itself, for all its history, draws only passing notice from the young.

Not far beyond, another bell tower appears, this one more restrained—a simple 19th-century belfry standing in service of an older, 18th-century church. Yet simplicity belies significance. This is the Church of Saint Spyridon, a place etched into history as the site of the assassination of Greece’s first governor. The air here feels heavier, as if the past has not quite loosened its grip.The character is unmistakably Ottoman, a quiet testament to the town's layered history. Inside, the space unfolds into a tapestry of faiths and eras: Byzantine icons glow from the walls, intricate paintings depict stories of devotion, and among them appear unexpected symbols—like the Star of David –acomplex heritage gathered within a single place.

By now, we find ourselves in the very heart of the old town. Ahead stands a building crowned with a striking roof—its surface unfolding into a series of shallow, flattened domes reminiscent of those in Istanbul. It was a mosque probably built in the late 1500's and one of Nafplio's oldest buildings. The building was once profanely used as a movie theatre by the name of Trianon. The occasional  theatre performance still takes place here.

A hub of activity

It's all foot traffic in the old town's  square. The roads are paved with marble that reflects light both night and day. Surrounding the square are neoclassical buildings. The palm trees demarcate various sections of the park right down the centre. There is no lack of outdoor cafes and restaurants. 

‘Sour’ oranges, cafes and hats, a school

The side walks along the historic facades are planted with orange trees that are heavy with fruit. Our mouths water. To our delight we find one that has fallen under the tree. Eagerly popping segments in our mouths we wince. It is not sour, but bitter! The abundance is stunning. Do they all go to waste? These trees are ornamental,and therefore, yes. But,No. In Greek kitchens they are transformed into marmalade, candied peel, or  delightfully sugary Greek spoon sweets. In cities like Athens or Valencia, the trees seem perfectly aware of their role—not as providers of edible fruit, but ornamental, offering fragrant spring blossoms and just enough visual appeal.

The boys are fascinated by a wooden fence beside a sidewalk cafe decorated with hanging flower pots and  reminders about how to make it a lovely day! It's a good excuse to hang around the cafe and smell the wafting aroma of coffee. Good food,and good vibes.!

With a skip and a hop the children wander through the  shops adding to the vibrancy of the town. Until  a shop with rows of straw and Panama hats catches their eye. They express an interest in these hats and we think they deserve them. .” What starts as a simple choice quickly escalates into an adventure. They try various hats for size and what they see of themselves in a mirror! the shopkeeper’s polite nods and encouraging ‘greek’ purchases are made. The satisfied customers now have a jaunty walk with their new possessions perched on their heads.

Just outside of the old town there is another draw. It's a school and young men are playing soccer. There's also a row of modern housing. But there is little time to explore this pRt of the city. We have to make our way back to the pier where a tender awaits uus.

Why is Nafpolion Athens-like?

Nafpolioni's old town with its picturesque cobbled streets, and neoclassical buildings are very like that in Plaka Athens, only bigger

Both are at the foot of citadels.

Both have Syntagma Square,  the main plaza, where all the government buildings are, Nafpolion’s being paved in marble.

Trivia 

Generally we associate Easter with renewal.

But, in Nafpoion, well-decorated coffins are placed in the churches to mark . On Good Friday the coffins are carried to Syntagma Square and then, of course, the party begins.