Cruise Ship Clashes in Colonial Cartagena
Our cruise liner and another are docked in Cartagena. At the dock we find a group of people trying to book a guided tour (always much cheaper than the ship's ’ shore excursions) of the Old Town. They have space for us. It is only after we board our van that we realise that we are a mixed group ( from both ships). Among us is an elderly passenger from the other ship whose priorities are very different from everyone else’s. Before the tour had even begun, she insists on being taken shopping first. No one else agreed. The driver promises to drop her at the shops after the tour, but she remains visibly grumpy throughout. History, architecture and culture hold no appeal for her — only shopping matters.
Reasons for visiting other countries: Shopping or culture?
It’s a familiar cruise-ship phenomenon. In Olympia, some passengers ignore the ancient ruins altogether, only to complain bitterly later when the shops are closed for the afternoon siesta. To them, the Greeks seemed lazy and uninterested in making money. They are,sad to say, missing entirely the rhythm and traditions of local life.
Wandering the Walled City
We are in The heart of Cartagena which lies within its UNESCO-listed Walled City, where thick coral-stone walls once protected residents from pirates and invaders. Cobbled lanes wind past brightly painted mansions with ornate balconies, now transformed into boutique hotels, galleries, restaurants and cafés.
Music spills from open windows while Colombian flags flutter overhead. History emerges around every corner.
Former beauty pageant winners are commemorated on memorial tiles made of dark polished stone, possibly marble, set directly into the outdoor pavement.
The bronze statues, representing local life, featured in Plaza de la Trinidad are part of a series celebrating Cartagena's culture and history within the historic Getsemaní neighborhood of Cartagena, Colombia.
The plaza is a popular gathering spot known for its lively atmosphere, street food vendors, and vibrant murals.
Fortresses, Pirates and Colonial Shadows
Towering above the city is Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, the largest fortress in South America. Built after Sir Francis Drake attacked Cartagena in 1586, the immense stronghold evolved over centuries into a masterpiece of military engineering.
We only see it from a distance knowing fully well that inside are narrow tunnels designed to trap and confuse invaders. It is easy to imagine the sweeping views of the old and new Cartagena from atop.
The gruesome shadow
Nearby, the Palacio de la Inquisición offers a darker glimpse into colonial history, said to display chilling torture devices once used against alleged heretics and witches.
Churches that Tell Stories
Cartagena’s churches are woven deeply into its history.
Cathedral of Santa Catalina de Alejandría is one of the oldest cathedrals in the Americas dominating the historic centre with its elegant dome and colonial grandeur.
Church of San Pedro Claver honours the Jesuit priest known as the “Apostle of the Slaves,” remembered for his compassion toward enslaved Africans.
Church of Santo Domingo is famous for its crooked bell tower and nearby Botero sculpture, La Gorda Gertrudis.
Church of Santa Toribio, the last church built inside the walled city, is also considered a colonial treasure.
Getsemaní: From Gritty to Bohemian
Just beyond the old walls lies Getsemaní, once a working-class district and now the city’s artistic soul. Narrow streets draped with colourful umbrellas and pennants burst with murals, music and nightlife.
The bronze statues representing local life featured in the Plaza de la Trinidad, in theGettsemani neighbourhood region are part of a series celebrating Cartagena's culture and history.
The plaza is a popular gathering spot known for its lively atmosphere, street food vendors, and vibrant murals. We are aware that by night, the alleys transform into open-air bars and restaurants pulsing with Caribbean energy. Plaza de la Trinidad becomes a lively meeting point filled with street musicians, food vendors and people lingering over drinks late into the evening.
Parks, Sloths and Evening Strolls
Cartagena’s parks and plazas are perfect for wandering as the heat softens in the early evening. Walking from Getsemaní toward Plaza de los Coches leads through the leafy Parque del Centenario, surprisingly rich with wildlife. Monkeys leap through the trees while sloths and tropical birds hide in the canopy above busy city streets.
Coffee, Craftsmanship and Caribbean Flavour
Mornings in Cartagena begin best with Colombian coffee. At Época Café in the Centro Histórico, rich local brews come with notes of coconut, chocolate and butter, paired with traditional arepas or indulgent waffles topped with hollandaise sauce and bacon salt.
For art and artisan crafts, the Museo de Arte Moderno showcases Colombian and Latin American artists, while nearby Ajá Company sells beautifully crafted handbags and handmade products using natural fibres and raw materials.
Forget the drugs : remember an Empire
Even though we have a skewed view of Columbia as a drug exporter we forget that Cartagena was once one of the Spanish Empire’s most important ports — exporting South American silver while importing enslaved Africans. In the 16th century it was a centre of immense colonial wealth and power, where Spanish colonisers, indigenous communities, European traders, enslaved Africans and later Middle Eastern migrants all converged.
Cultural collisions shaped the Cartagena of today: Afro-Caribbean rhythms, Spanish colonial grandeur and Indigenous traditions blend into a city alive with music, colour and flavour. Palm trees sway in the sea breeze, sunsets wash the sky pink and gold, and balconies overflow with tropical flowers
The Real Magic of Cartagena
Cartagena’s greatest charm lies not simply in its monuments, but in its atmosphere — the fusion of cultures, histories and contradictions. It is a city where colonial splendour coexists with painful history, where Caribbean music echoes through centuries-old streets, and where travellers searching only for shopping often miss the deeper riches surrounding them.
We did not perk ourselves with Colombian coffee, did not duck into tunnels and narrow spaces. Overall a very pedestrian friendly old town.
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