Visby, Sweden: ringed by roses and ruins

Picture perfect

As we step off the cruise ship onto the pier at Visby, we are greeted by a cheerful flutter of flags high above us. The town is welcoming us ashore. It is a lovely first impression. Beyond the harbour, the landscape stretches into gentle green ridges, where traditional windmills stand perfectly still, some partly concealed by the lush vegetation. Have we stepped into a postcard?

Reality vs appeal

Near the terminal, the scene is more practical. Buses, cars and taxis wait within the protected port area, ready for passengers who have arranged transport or simply prefer not to walk into town. But for us, Visby is tantalisingly close — we can already see the low rise skyline of the historic city ahead. That glimpse only makes us more eager to get there.

The caveat? The port has a simple terminal building and a long, 150-metre concrete pier, connected to Gotland Island's shore by a 140-metre access bridge. To reach the mainland, we have to cross a beautiful trussed bridge. It is not particularly intimidating, but it does make us slow down and pay attention to our footing. At the same time, there is something rather exciting about crossing it on foot, with the harbour and the Baltic stretching out around us.

Once safely across, we find the helpfully marked walking route leading along the coastline towards the old town. 2 km in about 30 mins — not really a stroll but anticipation gets us going. It's still a little early in the day. As we walk by the coast we see a ferry docked but there are very few people up and about. The day promises to get hotter. 

Bringing people and centuries together

Soon we reach an area where restaurants, cafes and shops are beginning to open. The cobblestoned square, streets and alleys are lined with flower boxes and concrete/stone sculptures of the horned Gotland rams that act as bollards and handy seating for weary legs. Timber-framed red buildings, and stone structures heavily draped in ivy and climbing plants surround us. We have just walked into Stora Torget: the historic main square. 

In the footsteps of history 

Having heard about the remains of the historic stone walls, we set out in search of them. At first, what we find is almost underwhelming: right before us stands a small, arched stone gate, but it doesn’t appear to lead anywhere. Then we realise that this is not a gateway at all, but a surviving fragment of the wall that once stood here. Their scattered remains make the discovery all the more intriguing.

Saint Catherine and Saint Nicolai

And so we continue, wandering through streets and narrow alleys where medieval and modern buildings stand side by side. Then, quite unexpectedly, towering stone arches rise before us. As we draw closer, we realise they frame great panes of glass, revealing a vast interior beyond. It takes a moment to understand what we are seeing: St Catherine’s church ruins now providing a space for private gatherings.

Nearby are the magnificent remains of St Nicolai. Standing among the ruins, it is impossible not to imagine how grand the church must once have been. The soaring arches, imposing stonework and sheer scale hint at a place that must have inspired awe. We learn that magnificent stained-glass windows once filled the interior with coloured light, transforming the stone into something radiant.

Now, the ruins are a perfect backdrop for  concerts, markets and other events, giving this ancient place a new life while still allowing us to glimpse something of its former magnificence.

A wall that resonates: ringmuren

From the church, we wander down a narrow alley of charming cottages, their façades laced and wreathed by roses spilling over fences and doorways. It feels almost like stepping into a storybook. Then, suddenly, the massive stone walls of the Ringmuren come into view.

Stretching 3.4 kilometres around Visby, this magnificent 13th-century city wall still stands with many of its original defensive towers and gates. It's 11 metres high in some places. Up close, its weathered stones seem to carry the weight of centuries, each gateway with its own character. One narrow gate creates a natural bottleneck for modern traffic, while beside it a steep path tempts us towards the ancient ramparts. We pause, wonder, and decide the climb looks a little too precarious.

So we continue at ground level, wandering through atmospheric alleys where, at almost every turn, another fragment of Visby’s medieval past appears—ruined churches, ancient pillars and stones that seem adamantly prevailing.

The Cathedral that's still alive

And now we have reached the cathedral—the same three towers we saw rising above Visby from afar. Up close, St. Mary’s is every bit as remarkable: a beautifully preserved 13th-century church that remains an active place of worship.

Originally built for the German merchants who came to Visby in search of trade and opportunity, it was partly financed by fees paid by arriving German traders. As many settled in Gotland, the church gradually became a place of worship for both the German community and local islanders.

Standing here, we are reminded of how trade, migration and faith shaped medieval Visby—a church that has witnessed more than 800 years of history and is still alive today.

Something more tactile

Just a few minutes’ walk away, another church ruin beckons. It is smaller than St Lars, but there is one irresistible temptation: stairs! And stairs, in a centuries-old ruin, are not something I can easily resist.

Tentative, I peer up at them. They are narrow, uneven and broken in places. There is no handrail—nothing to hold on to except the ancient stone wall. After all, this is an 800-year-old building, not a modern staircase designed with tourism and safety in mind!

Still, curiosity gets the better of caution, and I start climbing. I place one hand against the wall and gingerly feel my way up. At the landing, it is so dark that I have to grope my way forward. For a moment, my sense of adventure is winning the battle with common sense. Maybe I should go crawling.

But then common sense stages a comeback. 

I decide it is better to be safe than sorry and turn around. One careful, almost comically cautious step at a time, I make my way back down until I am once again on firm, well-lit ground. I made it, didn't I? At least halfway!

I have had a tactile experience of what used to be St Lawrence  Church.

And then, there's another story waiting right next door.

For the Germans, by the Germans: Drotten Church

Sharing a wall with St Lars is Drotten Church, built somewhat later. Today, very little remains of what was once the Rulers’ (or Lords’) Church. The old stone masonry has been slowly reclaimed by nature, with dense green foliage creeping over the ruins. A shaded pathway is almost the only clue that a church once stood here.

But Drotten has a rather different story from St Lars.

It was originally built by a German trader and served as a private parish church for the wealthy German merchants and citizens of the town. In other words, this was very much a church for the Germans, by the Germans.

But as the local population grew, where did the ordinary townspeople go to worship?

The answer:  just next door—St Lars, or St Lawrence.

So, standing among these weathered stones and tangled greenery, I realise that these aren't simply church ruins. They are traces of a town divided by wealth, community and perhaps even nationality—and all of it is still quietly telling its story, 800 years later.

   

Again. . .

The Church of Saint Peter is considered the oldest of Visby’s church ruins, built on the site of Gotland’s first church in the late 12th century. Saint John’s Church was built beside it in the 13th century as Visby’s population grew. Though they shared a wall, they remained separate places of worship. Initially, St Peter’s served the German population while St John’s served native Gotlanders. As the communities increasingly intermarried, the churches became divided more by social status: St Peter’s was associated with poorer residents, while St John’s served the wealthier.

Today, the few pillars and sections of magnificent stone walls that remain preserve not only traces of buildings, but of the communities and social divisions that shaped medieval life. 

School

The historic 19th century school building located within the medieval town was  originally a two-story structure built to house the local grammar school, Today it is an art museum.

Botanical gardens

The alley near the ‘school’ leads us to the Botanical gardens.

The entrance is a shaded pathway along stone masonry and architectural ruins covered with dense green foliage. A dramatic entrance indeed. The ruins are that of the 13th century  St Olof’s Church. What used to be the biggest church in Visby now seems like a Chapel.

The gardens do not disappoint thanks to its lushness and the abundance of roses that bloom during the sunny summer months. One of the most popular green spaces is the 2.5-hectare 19th century Botanical Gardens. Here you'll find a wide variety of rose species, exotic trees and plants that thrive in Gotland’s mild climate. enjoy the herb garden and the peaceful Gazebo Garden.

It's tempting to walk towards the wall that separates it from the sea but I do not see a break/entrance anywhere.

   

In the thick of things 

We are ready to call it a day, so we walk towards the Main Square and through a little gate — only to find ourselves suddenly in the middle of a huge crowd, with music, booths, speeches and free water bottles. What is going on?

We are in Almedalen Park( named for the elm trees), famous for Almedalsveckan, Sweden’s annual political and social forum. The park is alive with political groups, associations, temporary stands and even mounted police.

I escape the bustle and walk around the lake. In the quiet, I notice a tall building behind the red-tiled roofs, its distinctive step-gabled roof revealing its medieval past. Once a pharmacy, it is now modern apartments — a small reminder of how much this old city has changed.

From medieval buildings to modern politics, Almedalen seems to hold both past and present in one place.

The day has certainly evolved

As we make our way back to the pier, we walk closer to the coast and suddenly realise just how much is happening around us. More booths, tents and temporary structures are going up, while stages and sound equipment are being assembled. Rows of tiny cabins and changing rooms stand ready along the shore.

On the warm rocks, hordes of people lie sunbathing. From a distance, they look like colourful seals hauled out to soak up the sun. The whole shoreline is buzzing with activity.

Near the ferry pier, even more people are heading towards town, cabin bags in tow. Between the sea, the sun-warmed rocks and the pebbled shore, it feels as though the entire waterfront has come alive — a surprising transformation from the quiet town we had explored earlier.

Lasting Impressions: a remarkable UNESCO World Heritage site

Visby is a remarkable blend of medieval grandeur and everyday modern life. Its ancient walls, cobbled streets, ruined churches and Baltic  Sea beaches and cultural heritage create a town where the past is never far away. Yet it is the contrast between splendour and decay that stays with me most — a poignant reminder that buildings may fade, but the stories they hold continue to give them meaning.

Observation

One of the challenges of the old town is navigating its narrow, cobbled streets, ancient arches and historic gates. Traffic can quickly build up, and delivery vans often have to make long detours or find alternative routes.

Tidbit

Our onboard chef tells me that the mariners who have permission to go ashore would pick apples in the many trees in Almaden Park, enjoying the freshness. But this happened only in autumn. No apples for us for as it is still summer.