Malta? Any relation to Hammett's Maltese Falcon, a print to screen novel?
The history of the Maltese falcon, a real trained falcon, begins in the 16th century when Emperor Charles the V granted Malta, Gozo and Tripoli to the Knights of St. John. In return, the Knights were required to provide the Spanish crown with an annual symbolic tribute. Yes, one trained falcon per year granted the Knights autonomy while symbolically continuing Spanish sovereignty.
In the twentieth century, Dashiell Hammett drew on this real historical tradition for his novel The Maltese Falcon. He transformed the historical falcon into a fictional, jewel-encrusted statuette, supposedly created as a tribute for the King of Spain. And then came the film that made the association legendary. Thus, the Maltese connection in the novel has a genuine historical foundation, even though the famous artifact itself is fictional.
Eventually their emblem, the eight-pointed Maltese Cross, and the tradition of the falcon became symbols of prestige, sovereignty, and military heritage.
Mystical: Shaped by the strategic position
Malta is an archipelago in the central Mediterranean between Sicily and North Africa. It is ideally located at the crossroads between Europe, North Africa and the eastern Mediterranean. Today we are in Valetta, its capital. The view of the numerous fortifications as we approach the port speaks plenty for its layered history shaped by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Sicilians, Spaniards, the Knights of St John and the British. By dint of its position Malta became extremely important in WWII, Allied operations were coordinated from here.
Drawn into the unique blend
As we leave the port towards the city we get glimpses of what is to come. The path takes us through taxi ranks and horse carriages lined up for hire.We climb up a negotiable slope with the cruise port below us on one side and the streets, also below us on the other. There is no question that the old and new, history and modernity exist together. There are short streets, sometimes made up of only stairs. There are side streets into which charming cafes are tucked.
The walk leads us to the upper Barrakka Gardens located on the upper tier of Saints Peter and Paul Bastion built in the 1560s. It is the highest point of the city walls. Apparently we could have taken the lift from the harbour but we are not complaining. After all, exploration is key to our travels, especially the little bits that add up to a fully immersive experience. The colonnaded garden is dotted with various monuments, including a replica of Antonio Sciortino’s famous sculpture, The Street Urchins, and a tribute to Sir Winston Churchill. The park benches are inviting but we have a lot to explore in the city. We will return.
Away from the tourist spots
Just as we hit the streets we see a bus terminus. So we decide to get a day pass and ride around the city and its suburbs. First we drive by the Valletta waterfront in Floriana with its iconic waterfront. historic buildings that were once warehouses, have been restored into a relaxed stretch of restaurants, bars, and walking paths right along the waterThe Granaries, as they are known, is a large urban open space that is ideal for major events. The traffic in the city peters out as we leave it. Our 21/2 hr long trip takes us through various streets and several residential areas, some with remains of crumbling old stone walls.
The view of a whole fortified city
Then we are at Mosta, another city, where we are astounded by the Rotunda, Malta's largest church, said to be the third largest unsupported dome in the world. It's all looking very much like Rome's open museum.
Reverence in silence
And then we are in Mdina, a fortified hilltop city, the old capital.At St Paul's church and St Agatha's we are enraptured by the Baroque architecture and embellishments of the grand ornate edifices. The alleyways are a delight to wander around. We even walk into an artisan glass factory. Being car-free, the city is silent. What a lovely reverential stillness.
We pass by the international airport featuring a local yellow limestone shell and distinct arches, inspired by traditional architectural elements and the historic fortifications of Valletta, and the University with its ubiquitous shared porticos and limestone structure. The streets did seem rather quiet.
To be cont'd in Valetta, Malta(2)
