Mitilini, Lesbos, Greece : Oh, my my, my!

Tender approach

Right after visiting Istanbul(Constantinople, the grand capital of the Roman empire),at the crossroads of Asia and Europe, we are back on the Aegean Sea, making our way toward the Greek island of Lesbos. We are tendered into Mytilini, the capital of Lesbos, with little in the way of expectations. After the intensity and grandeur of Istanbul, we are but mildly curious to see what this next stop might bring.

Hah!

As is our habit, we intend to walk to the farthest point first, then slowly make our way back, taking in the sights and soaking up the atmosphere. But then—wow!—an imposing church catches our eye (even as we approach the shore) and stops us in our tracks. Its striking architecture and five domes are simply breathtaking – Agios Therapontas, a Greek Orthodox Cathedral with 5 ornate domes. It is a magnificent example of Byzantine architecture. It’s unlike any other church in Greece. In the courtyard is Lesvos’ Byzantine Museum.

My! Off shore or downtown?

As we stroll along the paved Ermou Street, through the old Turkish Quarter toward the other harbour, it is easy to think of it as simply another street filled with souvenir shops. But this is no ordinary street. It carries layers of history.

Named after Hermes, the ancient Greek god of commerce, travel, and trade, Ermou elicits the spirit of an old agora—the marketplace where people once gathered not only to trade, but to meet, talk, exchange news, etc. In other words, it would have been a social and cultural hub. Pedestrianised in 2024, the street compels us to slow down and look around. Fish shops, grocery stores, little bookshops, convenience stores, jewellery, and souvenir shops spill their ware into the rhythm of everyday life. 

And then there is the story beneath our feet: 

Imagine!  Mytilene, on which the fortress is, was once a small island, lying just offshore from the much larger island of Lesbos. Between them ran a narrow channel of sea. Over the centuries silt and sediment accumulated little by little, the waterway growing narrower and shallower,making it feasible to build marble bridges across the remaining passage, binding the two shores together.

In time, the channel disappeared altogether. The little island of Mytilene became joined to Lesbos, and the sea that had once flowed between them gave way to solid ground. And so, we may have just walked over naturally reclaimed land on some of the intersections.

We pass by mansions. Further up the streets the architecture of the buildings shift. We are in The  Ottoman quarter which is flanked by Neoclassical merchant houses from the late 19th century. The city's Islamic history is revealed through the vestiges. The ruins of the 19th century complex that includes a mosque and hamam are an unmistakably  unique blend of Byzantine and Ottoman architectural elements.

Layers of historical significance 

Close by, rising above the surrounding streets, stands the 16th-century Metropolitan Church of Aghios Athanasios, which became the Metropolitan Church of Mytilene in the 18th century. We are struck by neo-Gothic bell tower that soars to an impressive 33 metres. Both the church and its bell tower were apparently built with chiselled stone brought from the quarries of Asia Minor, adding yet another layer of history to this remarkable landmark.

Leaving the church behind, we wander deeper into Mytilene’s quieter and older streets. Among the stucco-fronted houses and timeworn ceramic  façades another Orthodox church comes into view, partly concealed behind a wrought-iron gate at the bottom of a simple stone belfry, beyond which lies a peaceful courtyard.

A little farther on, another charming surprise awaits us. Tucked among the surrounding buildings is the small chapel of St. Eudokomis, with its distinctive red-and-white horizontal stripes. A reddish-brown dome crowns the chapel, while a tiny rooftop bell tower, with its solitary bell, completes its picturesque appearance. The chapel is thought to have been built by refugees from Asia Minor, giving this modest place of worship a poignant connection to the region’s history of displacement and resettlement.

Continuing our aimless wandering, we soon encounter yet another Byzantine Orthodox church. This time it is the Orthodox Church of St. Paul, believed to commemorate a historic stop made by St. Paul during one of his missionary journeys. Encountering these churches one after another, tucked into the fabric of the city, makes our walk through Mytilene feel like a journey through layers of faith and history.

My, my!

Lesbos is famous for its ouzo, the anise-flavored spirit that Greece is known for. But if the name Lesbos triggers another, more familiar association, you’re absolutely on the right track.

Lesbos was the birthplace of Sappho, one of ancient Greece’s most celebrated lyric poets. Born into an aristocratic family in the 7th century BCE, Sappho spent much of her life in Mytilene, the island’s capital, writing intensely passionate poetry—much of it exploring love, desire, and affection between women.

And here’s the concurrence: the word “lesbian” traces its roots directly back to this island because of Sappho’s poetry and her association with love

My, my, my!

Asia Minor has played a profound role in the history and identity of Lesbos, A mere six miles of water on a map can become, for those crossing it, an entire world between the life they have left behind and the life they hope to find. It has also been a passage between peoples, cultures, histories, and, at times, worlds in conflict.During the 2015–2016 refugee crisis, Lesbos once again became a gateway between Asia and Europe. Hundreds of thousands of people fleeing war and instability in Syria, Iraq, and Afghanistan crossed the Aegean, arriving on the island in search of safety and a new life. 

In Mytilene, these layered histories are reflected symbolically in the statues that stand along the waterfront. The figure of Mother Asia Minor evokes the memory of those who were displaced from the shores across the sea, while the statue of Sappho speaks to Lesbos's ancient cultural legacy. Nearby, closer to the port, stands a Statue of Liberty—reminiscent of the one in New York—offering another powerful image of arrival, freedom, and possibility.

On a lighter note

Before returning to the harbour, we make our way towards the Fortress of Mytilene, a massive sixth-century stronghold rising from a pine-covered hill between the island’s two harbours. We are content simply to admire it from below, taking in its scale and history without needing to climb any higher.

Then, as if to complete the day perfectly, we find our way to the crystal-clear waters of the Aegean. Perched on ancient stones beside the shingle beach, we dip our feet into the cool sea and sit for a while, quietly taking it all in. There is a wonderful sense of satisfaction in ending the day this way—surrounded by history, sea and sunlight.