A rough plan
An ideal road trip would comprise wide roads, clear signage and, of course, breathtaking scenery. Reality is not exacly ideal. There are usually two choices when driving from city to city: (1) narrow roads-cum-scenic views or (2) multi-laned highways with good signage but boring scenery. Besides, a cherishable trip is one in which you discover things rather than one that has been meticulously planned for every minute and every stop. When recollecting your trip you may be asked, "You mean you were that near and you didnt go?!"Why do we have to see everything that a tourist guide suggests? A slight madness in plunging ahead in unknown waters begets experiences and discoveries that become unforgettable and make every trip worth remembering. And that is exactly what driving in the Canadian Rockies was all about..
Measured by moments
We had done short stretches in the Canadian Rockies before, when heading for Banff National Park(the oldest national Park in Canada, established in 1881), where we explored the ice fields, walked on a glacier, soaked in the tranquility of the cold blue waters of Lake Louise, hiked to Johnston Canyon and met wild life (moose, curvy horned mountain goats and a bear!). But we hadn't really done the Rockies from the foothills in Alberta through to British Columbia. One would think that with all the experiences chalked up over the years, driving in the Canadian Rockies would be a breeze. Wrong. We should have been familiar with the terrain but we were in for even more wonders and thrills. We have noticed in our travels that the places we revisit have more surprises for us making us feel that nature entertains us with showing its glory in various ways. Nature never ceases to produce feasts for the eye.
We took Yellowhead Highway, Trans Canada 15, through Jasper National Park and Mt Robson Provincial Park. Somewhere along the way we crossed the Continental Divide, a long ridge, along the border between Alberta and British Columbia. On the eastern side all the streams flow towards the Atlantic Ocean. On the western side they flow towards the Pacific Ocean. Since we were not overnighting we didn't have to purchase passes at the entrance to the Park. We were greeted with signs warning us of bears, moose, etc. For most of the way we followed the Fraser river( the longest river within British Columbia) upstream almost to its origin. Once in a while it peered between the mountains.
We crossed the raging Fraser river just before entering McBride, in the heart of the Robson Valley, surrounded by lakes and mountains . We had been driving for a few hours with rain drumming on the roof of the car, and streams running down the windshield. It did not look as though it would let up, and we decided to check into the motel for the day before exploring the small town on foot, walking up to the seething Fraser River.The streets looked abandoned, with some homes boarded up, for the lumber industry on which the town thrived had dwindled. The town now mainly attracts campers. The next morning we explored the town further and were delighted to see the quaint heritage railway station that once served as the main means of transport between towns. We learnt that VIA Rail's year-round passenger trains have been serving the village for more than a century. As we left the town for Prince George we stopped at the bridge across the Fraser river to dip our feet into the calmer waters along the park built on the banks. A sign warned boat launchers that it was salmon spawning season. Their habitat was not to be unduly disturbed.
A great road trip is where the unexpected happens along the way.
Prince George was near the transition between the northern and southern portions of the Rocky Mountain Trench, one of the longest valleys on earth. We arriveded in pouring rain, and it cotinued to rain the next day as well. Undaunted we walked around the town, getting thorougly wet in spite of our autumn clothing. The hill right before us was tempting and so we climbed up to be greeted with views of the city which helped get our bearings for shopping for our food. The next day we were supposed to drive higher into the north western section of the Rockies towards Terrace and Prince Rupert Island. However with the inclement weather, prediction of rain and floods in the area, and a slight medical inconvenience for the main driver, we chose to abort that part of the trip and stayed on in the same town.
The next day we decided to make the return journey, with me, the other driver, on an alternative route. We simply couldn't leave without meeting the most famous figure in town, Mr PG. He is none other than a pinnochio like staue that symbolises the town.We found him at the junction of two highways standing 8 m tall bearing a head 1.5 m in diameter. To be able to stand beside him we had to foray into several side streets and cross a highway within the city, seeing more of it, before we found the road that led to the high rise at the corner of the said junction. Parking temporarily at the parking lot, we walked towards the figure, only to be met with a fence under which we had to duck before we got to his shoes. Perhaps he stands just to greet drivers into PG, not really needing to be hugged. Made entirely of wood, Mr PG certainly symbolized the importance of the forest industry.
What is a highway?
Curiosity sated we took off on the next leg of our journey. This was partly on the Trans Canada High way. You wouldn't know it was a highway(the highway is the main road of the many small towns) until you see the multiple lanes near the larger towns. Otherwise, given the terrain, they are mostly narrow two-way lanes . There are sharp turns around the corners of which you gasp to see either a deep slope down towards a vast lake or deep fall on the side of the road. Pumping on the brakes will not really help slow down the car. Reducing the speed even before you start the slope downwards is ideal, but it is usually too late by then.
Driving with a map you look for the signs , eyes glued to the road ( have I made the right turn? Attention has to be devoted to driving so you don't hit anyone or be hit.Oh, oh! How do I cross over two lanes when there is a lot of traffic behind me? Will I miss the exit?). A driver used to driving on the left side of the road can expect anxiety when crossing lanes or turning at traffic junctions when in a country that drives on the wrong side. Have I enough gas in my tank? Fuel stations are few and far between. You fill up when you see one even if its just a few litres.
The drive from Cache Creek ( which had EV charging stations) through Golden and Revelstoke was the scariest. More than half of our route was in its original 2-way state -- no bypasses or interchanges and therefore few passing opportunities. Sitting behind the wheel puts you in a responsible position. Is there a car behind me? What does my side view mirror show. Am I a safe distance from the cyclist? Will the semi behind me be able to slow down if I am not able to acelerate quickly enough? An RV ahead is obstructing the view. You would think that you would miss a lot of the scenery. However, the traffic on the route was well behaved, except for the occasional impatient driver. We just had to be more careful when roads were partly closed for construction work or slippery due to rain.
High speed turns and roller coasters
But the speed limit even around the series of curves? 70-90kmph! That is the fastest I have driven on winding and undulating roads. If I had slowed down I would have caused a massive back up of cars. It was scary at first but the fact that you can control the car even at that speed, with kuckles turning white from fingers firmly curled around the steerng wheel is of course a feat to be proud of. The roads are certainly an engineering marvel. Many times we passed through tunnels which were actually avalanche protection structures. At times we saw ledges on the drop side of the road apparently to install machinery to trigger avalanches during the winter so that the mountain roads can be left open to drivers. The zig zag road sign could be an understatement on a serpentine road. The limitations were dwarfed by the fantastic views of snow capped mountains, fir tuffted hills, waterfalls, glacial rivers and lakes, the ranches, orchards and the farms.
There are no wrong turns
Driving with just the destination in mind is not what makes a trip . It is not the trip that determines your drive but the drive that determines the quality of the trip. We did make a couple of wrong assumptions that threw up opportunities to appreciate quaint village lanes, discover delighful streets and views. We never despaired of not being able to work it all out.
When we reached Calgary, driving became tedious. The six lane highway that led to the outskirts of the city dramatically became the 4 lane congested arterial road that goes through the city and therefore controlled by an infinite number of traffic lights. The stop and go traffic was hard on the clutch. That night we stayed in an inn overlooking a dairy farm and the smells of the barn reminded us of our stay in rural Switzerland.
If alone, frequent caffeine shots recommended
After Calgary it was a drive through very flat land. Roads ahead seemed to meet at infinity flanked by fields of flax, hay, canola and wheat. Dotting the fields were mechanical donkeys drilling, relentlessly nodding as they drew up the black gold. There's always the danger the driver would fall asleep at the wheel unless an occasional deer or raccoon crossed the path or frolicked along the hedges.
Here today, gone tomorrow
This was followed by a drive through the Badlands, a stunning otherworldly landscape of multi-hued canyons and wind sculpted tablelands. The top soil had all eroded leaving behind curiously shaped rocky terrain. During the dinosaur age it was a subtropical paradise filled with trees and vegetation. The area has the largest deposit of dinosaur bones in the world. It was all quite eerie but as the sun began to set a glow came over them bringing out a kaleidoscope of colours imbuing them with an otherworldly aura.
Attitudes
A trip sticks in your mind also because of the strangers we meet. We do not always exchange names or ask for personal details, etc. Usually they are just locals who are proud of their town and want to share it with you. In the first hotel we stayed at breakfast was excellent. Almost everything for an American breakfast was available freshly made. We peeked into the kitchen to thank the sous chefs.
Another hotel had a similar spread with slight differences. This was the first time we came across a waffle making machine. You had to press a button to get a measured amount of batter from the dispenser. Then you had to pour it into the waffle pan and flip the top pan on to the bottom pan. it should work, but no. The machine kept beeping and for a good 10 mins I was in a quandary. A lady sitting at the next table had filled a cup with ice chips and was busy laying them on her tongue one by one. She had a couple of yoghurt cartons sitting in front of her. She was oblivious to the annoying beeps. Perhaps she was a cancer patient. A man wandered in holding his phone camera up to show the array of food to someone who was far away, perhaps in another country. Then another walks in to have his cuppa, sees me struggling, says he has not used these machines before because he doesn't like waffles, but will try anyway. He just flipped it over and the beeping stopped.
In another incident at Travel Lodge breakfast ran out. We went in for breakfast at 8am. To our surprise the small breakfast nook was crowded. But most people were there for their morning coffee. When they filled a cup they took it to their rooms . Some came back a couple of times for refills. We sat there and had our breakfast as we watched them. Some of the coffee drinkers came later for their breakfast and everything had run out. The front desk did not have refills except for coffee. Some people had already packed their breakfast in the styrofoam cups before leaving for their next destination. We were the few people who had an unhurried and satisfying breakfast.
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