Intriguing immersions in Bali (June 2002)-- Part 2

Volcanoes and calderas – divine abodes of  Hinduism-cum-Buddhism

We wanted to drive up to the famous temples --Bersakih Temple on the slopes of Mt Agung and Ulun Danu Beratan Temple  on Gunong Beratan. Having understood a little of the culture we asked if the father would like to come with us to these temples. He did for it would be a pilgrimage for him. Again, without a map we managed to drive up to the Mother Temple -  Besakih on the. Several stairs lead up  the sacred mountainside to Pura Besakih, the 3 main temples dedicated to the Hindu trinity. The steep stairs leading up to the sanctuaries take on a mystical quality partly because of the sights - pagodas, blue skies, verdant slopes, rivers etc. The temples are all open to the sky and therefore open to the gods.

This time the pagoda-like structures made of several tiers of thatched roof were taller, indicating the degree of importance of the temple. The architecture was somewhat similar to Buddhist Pagodas. This drove home the point that the Balinese religion is a combination of Hinduism and Mahayana Buddhism . That is why it is often called the Shiva-Buddhist, Hindu-Dharma.

We then drove on to one of the most unique and picturesque temples in Bali, Pura Ulun Danu Bratan, dedicated to a goddess. A towering 11-tiered meru stood prominently in the middle of the lake ( our first experience of a caldera) which from a distance appeared to be floating. 

Spoilt milk for the uninitiated

Outside the temple grounds we were swarmed by touts selling carvings of Vishnu-Garuda as well as other souvenirs. We shared our lunch of rice,yogurt and vegetables with our host. We did not know that he had not eaten much of his share, because he thought it was spoilt food as he told  his son later. In our eagerness to make him feel comfortable with us we clean forgot that yogurt with rice is palatable only to an insignificant part of the world. He was not used to yogurt.

Evoking Hindu epics

On our way back we stopped at Tirta Gangga Palace (a name which is deeply associated with Hinduism)  with its lavish water gardens featuring numerous immense pools. The clear pond with stepping stones and fountains along neatly placed statues was fun to negotiate. 

Temporary abode before cremation

Our host also took us to a village where we learnt about funerals. Temporary burial occurs immediately after death, until it’s time for the cremation ceremony. Families leave food, flowers, or other items as an offering at a shrine next to the burial site. The period before the cremation ceremony is anguish for families since the soul hasn’t been purified yet.  Families who can’t financially afford the funeral ceremony opt for a low-cost alternative.  They cremate the bodies in a mass ceremony with the whole village. Cremation rituals are seen by the Balinese as joyous occasions, as they release the soul from the body of the departed.

Ubud dancer bids us goodbye

A quick walk in the main streets of Ubud admiring local handiwork and watching artists at work, to us to the ubiquitous Saraswati temple, with its lush liliy pond, a haven of quiet in an otherwise bustling town chock full of tourists and long term residents completed our in the vicinity.

Having spent about 2 weeks in Ubud we decided to dine at a restaurant. We remember the occasion more for the costumed dancer who entertained us than for the food.