Runs and Ladders -- more than just women's stockings

Ketchikan from 2010 to 2018

Repetitive visits

We often take the cheaper repositioning cruises to cross the Pacific, gradually gaining 16 hours over 14 days, and that invariably takes us to Alaska. Ketchikan is one of the most frequented ports on Alaska cruises. We have been there five times. Boring, you would think. We beg to differ. Each time we visit there is something new to experience.

Spawning of two kinds

The first time we went was in September 2010. Almost immediately after disembarking, we hit Creek Street. The buildings housing boutiques , restaurants and musuems are all on stilts over the banks of the creek.We were amused by the town's colourful , and I mean really colourful (as the pictures attest) past. There's even a guided tour of the saloons by guides who are dressed like the vamps of yore, reminiscent of cowboy towns, replete with stockings and all. Creek Street was the Red Light District.

If you look at the board closely you'll notice that two kinds of spawning took place. The latter is what makes Ketchikan the salmon Capitol of the world.

An  extraordinary breed

We have experienced Ketchikan  at different times of the year -- May, July and September.

And the Creek is the place where it all happens. The spawning begins in May with the salmon swimming from the briny ocean to the fresh waters going up the Creek against the flow. They literally slither around each other, leap over each other, inadvertently nudge others onto the banks floundering them to their death, and climb the ladders( concrete steps built along weirs so as to enable them to swim to higher parts of the river). The waters are literally seething with fish seemingly displacing all the water.  The otters and the bears have a grand feast. So do eagles who swoop on them. Ardent fishermen come in droves for the best catch. Not only do the fish exhaust their energy they also reduce their feeding when they reach freshwater. Hence , after spawning 90 % of them die. If they are not eaten by other animals they decompose adding nutrients to the water. The fry remain in the gravel from a few months to more than a year, depending on the species, before they make their way to the ocean. In September the Creek is placid.

Asian Attraction

Needless to say, canneries boomed in the early 20th century attracting Asians into the area as these plaques testify.

Berries and accidental bear-watching

We enjoy walking along the pier and into the streets that lead us to the hills and the various residential areas built at different levels connected with a complex series of wooden stairs. We get a good workout. Once we walked into the harbour for sea planes and simply sat there watching tourists, opting to fly over fjords and glaciers, struggle into and out these machines. Then we climb up even further into calmer residential areas, seeing bears in the distance if it is the berry season. 

The last time we went we visited the beautiful new library. When travelling we love to walk into a library not only because I feel very much at home surrounded by books, especially by local writers, but also because they give us a comfortable respite while we avail ourselves of the free Wi-Fi. Sitting in the couches facing the huge windows with a pleasant view of Deer Mountain has a very calming effect.

Every time we come we visit: 

The Tlinglit Chief's house with its totem pole

The landscaped garden of a house sitting on a hill by the harbour

The married man's trail

The fishing harbour with its new marina