As we disembark and walk into the huge terminal a surging crowd awaits shore excursions either to Kenai Fjords National Park to see the glaciers or to Denali National Park or Mount Marathon. Most are looking for adventure or special scenic routes or the historic trails. We only have a few hours in the port and so with a basic map from the tourist desk we set out. As we walk around and get the lay of the land we might just refer to the map if we believe we are late and have lost our way. We have been warned that the weather is unpredictable and therefore are dressed for it. It seems wiser to avail ourselves of the free tourist shuttle that will take us into the city proper about a mile away with several stops . A main street would be a good place to start and so when we ride through what seems to be a broad street we get off.
A glimpse into a rich history
Our instincts are right . We are on 4th Avenue which is a mix of historic sites, unique shops and enticing cafes. We also wander into side streets and parallel avenues. Seward is a compact city. Seamlessly we are immersed in history for the unique buildings we come across carry plaques that testify to their legacy. Most of these certified buildings and monuments are located along 4th Avenue, with a few on 3rd and 5th Avenues.
The Van Gilder Hotel at Adams Street has been a hotel for 110 years. The Brown & Hawkins, the oldest, has been serving as a general store for nearly a century. Fittingly some of the original fixtures have been retained while also catering to modern shopping tendencies. The Liberty Theater of the 1940s, was once a beloved movie theater with old Hollywood glamour. After it closed it operated as part of a hotel until it shut its doors for good.
A few minutes away is a modern apartment building built to withstand the vagaries of the Alaska climate.
The new and vibrant
Within a few minutes we are passing by the town hall and then a very colourful building, our favourite place in ports - the city library. In the days we travelled to Alaska we connected to the Internet at the libraries and for a few minutes caught up with family. The library facade is all mural. It has a garden and a local history museum highlighting Native inhabitants, the 1964 earthquake and tsunami, and regional heritage.Seward rebuilt and preserved its rich heritage after the devastating earthquake.
Puffin(g) with pride
And then we are at the imposing Alaska SeaLife Center that proudly showcases local marine life. Its colourful mural ‘Return of the Whales’ indicates the centre's mission. For a fee enthusiasts get to walk through the popular puffin and seabird aviary and interactive exhibits as well as learn about rescue work.
A touch of wilderness
As we walk along the Avenue furthest from the shore we come across Two Lake Park. Being aware of our time constraints we do the short trail among the fir trees. We skirt both the First Lake and the Second Lake with the clear waters mirroring everything around them. Birds chirp away. No sign of salmon because it is not the season. No moose either. The small unassuming gentle waterfall adds to the tranquility of it all.
We find ourselves leaving the park at the recreational area which easily leads us back to the Waterfront Park and Small Boat Harbor with hundreds of boats bobbing about as though with wild abandon!
Serendipity
Breathtaking scenery surrounds us as we make your way to back to the port
What a vibrant town where history and natural beauty blend seamlessly!
A visual celebration
Seward, at that time, had 30 vibrant murals that are very much part of the city's character. Each of these public artworks celebrate the rich history, culture, and natural beauty of the area. The Seward Mural Society, founded in 1999, and local artists work together to present history through art. Seward was officially designated the "Mural Capital of Alaska" in 2008.The citizens are so proud of this recognition that The Mural Society offers a digital map of the locations of all the murals in Seward. My favorite was the 'Wildflower Garden' .
Gateway to Alaska: logistic artery
We plan to visit the Old Train Depot close to the port, before we call it a day. It doesn't disappoint. Parked on the tracks are antique railroad speeders that take us back to an era when track inspectors and maintenance crew relied on compact motorized cars to navigate rugged mountain routes.. Nearby, a map traces the historical stops of the Alaska Railroad, highlighting the brutal climbs through the Kenai Mountains and honoring the legacy of pioneer "Alaska Nellie" Lawing. The well preserved broad roofed bungalow-style building with clapboard siding, and a deep verandah is historic.
Before the trains, Seward played a vital role as a gateway to Alaska’s interior. It was the starting point of the historic Iditarod Trail, used by miners and mail carriers.
Geographically, Seward has an ice-free deep-water harbour that no other Arctic port has. That meant large cargo and cruise ships could dock safely any time.
The Seward city’s port that is free of the vagaries of winter, and railway connection snaking through mountainous terrains as well as the Seward Highway (trucking) providing unrestricted access to the various Alaskan population hubs fostered economic growth and development.
During World War II, Seward’s location made it an invaluable military staging ground and supply line, a vital logistics artery.
Noteworthy
As we approach the cruise terminal we begin to wonder at its shape and size.it is more like an airport hangar. Quite befitting a major hub!
The waterfront reveals a rugged coastline with rock stacks, remnants of collapsed arches.
It also has The Iditarod Trail Mile 0 Marker indicating the starting point of the historic Iditarod Trail that was crucial for mail and supplies, connecting remote communities.
One notable sculpture is the “Trail Blazers” statue, unveiled in 2008 to mark the centennial of the Iditarod Trail. It depicts an early 1900s prospector with his pack dog, symbolizing the pioneering spirit of the era.
While on board I notice a skeletal pier. Upon closer observation I make out a towering crane and a conveyor system. Looming directly behind it are steep, fog shrouded mountains. Is the mystical aura justified? Reading about it later I find out it is the abandoned Seward coal terminal. A relic of the past for, since 2018, it no longer serves its purpose. It would have been dismantled by now.
Interesting rules governing Iditarod mushers.
Musher: one who drives the sled dog team in the Iditarod
Rules:
The musher is allowed to carry firearms of his own choice to protect his team from territorial moose, wolves, or bears.
If a musher kills a big game animal( like a moose) in self-defense, he must stop, gut it, and salvage the meat.
Competitors close behind him must stop and help process the animal. They are not allowed to pass until the musher who shot it moves on.
What do these rules show? The Iditarod is less of a standard sport and more of a survival challenge. Forcing competitors to pause their race to help a rival process an animal proves that in the wild, human solidarity and respect for nature always come before winning.
