Momentous events that shaped Sitka
Originally a native Tlingit settlement, Sitka became a battleground when Russia fought to establish it as the capital of Russian America. In a strategic move, the Tlingit people escaped the conflict by relocating elsewhere. They gradually returned only after Russia sold Alaska to the United States, leaving modern Sitka with a rich, unique blend of cultures. In 1907 it lost its title of capital to Juneau.
From the commercial port it is but a stone’s throw to Castle Hill where the
indigenous displacement, imperial transition, and the geopolitical reshaping of North America took place.
Beginning with the better informed!
A huge, orange sign outside a sizable building we first come across turns out to be one of the best places to visit when you are exploring a city. It is the Sitka Public Library! The staff of a public is generally always convivial and will usually engage you if they are not too busy. But it is still early and we will visit a little later in the day not only to strike up a conversation but also to avail ourselves of the wi-fi!
Another sign board that catches our attention is that of The Sitka Sentinel. It appears that this is an independent, family-owned newspaper founded 1940. It is not surprising then that it publishes only on weekdays.
A maritime landscape and authenticity
Our path leads us into the Sitka Sea Walk, a coastal park with ample benches, picnic shelters, vibrant sports fields, and a lively playground—all framed by the sweeping, panoramic views of Crescent Harbor. The boats are busy. The wooden piers and their reflections add to the drama. The park’s largest shelter has a traditional secret: it is a working sanctuary where fishermen weave and repair their nets, doubling as a grand community event space that honors Sitka's deep Tlingit and maritime heritage. The majestic harbour is, without a doubt, the heartbeat of the seafaring community of Sitka.
Wandering towards the ‘ laundry’
The side streets lead us to more historic buildings. We are in the vicinity of the Sheldon Jackson Campus, which was founded in 1878 and is the oldest institution of higher learning in Alaska. One of the notable structures is called the Laundry Building. In those times the building played a crucial role in supporting the daily operations of the school and college.
Russian Blockhouse, Sitka
A few minutes away a strange looking structure looms up above us reminding us of the landscape of Eastern Europe. What we are looking at is but a replica of a garrison, part of walled fortifications that demarcated the boundary between the area in Russia's control and the Tlingit village. Originally, it was a capital D-shaped five-sided structure. The reconstructed one is octagonal. The ruins of a small square blockhouse stands right below.
Should we be spooked?
A little further it gets lonely. Guess what?. We have stumbled upon a mossy area, dappled by daylight piercing through the trees. It's rather quiet and quite eerie especially when we detect tombstones that have withstood the test of time in spite of the ravages of natural phenomena.
This is the 200 year old Russian Cemetery. We find out that there is still the occasional burial of a Russian Orthodox Christian.
As we leave via another path along a swamp I am intrigued by the vibrant yellow flowers that are flute-like and thick petaled on a sturdy stem. My later research shows me that these are called Western Skunk Cabbage. They are also known as swamp lanterns ( another aspect of the eerie). Their skunk-like odor when in bloom attracts flies and other insect pollinators.it reminds me of the corpse flower.
Swan Lake: the ice story
Now, just before us lies a small, calm lake. It is actually man-made. The reason is fascinating. During the Russian occupation of Alaska they needed an income source during the winter. From here the Russians would export ice to southern communities in the Pacific Northwest! Swan Lake now is home to various kinds of trout and other fish. The small dock serves anglers.
Back to the city centre.
The lake being in the centre of the city we are returning to the sea walk from where we'll explore the city itself. We're back at Crescent Bay across which is the Russian Bishop’s House.The Totem Square with its grassy open area draws us towards it. The colourful totem pole that dominates has the carving of a double headed eagle symbolic of Sitka's Tlingit-Russian heritage.
A Rose Gallery?
Yes, it is a historic building – a beautiful Victorian Home which has little to do directly with roses. It is an art gallery and gift shop displaying the works of over 100 Alaskan artists.
The Pioneers home
Also bordering the square is the huge Pioneers home originally quarters for the US marines stationed here in log barracks. More buildings came up in subsequent years. Then the barracks were closed and gradually repurposed to house pioneers, and prospectors who needed care. Over the years it has evolved into a registered home for men and women who need special care.
Close by is the unassuming St Peters by the Sea with the name referring to its coastal address.
Is that a school?
So says the sign board standing before a few buildings that seem like individual houses.Pacific High School is known for its project-based learning and interdisciplinary study. As educators ourselves, it would have been interesting to meet its teachers
We make our way downtown to St. Michael’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral, a remarkable landmark that stands as a living testament to Sitka’s rich Russian heritage. As we approach, we are captivated by its unusual beauty. Set against the backdrop of the Alaskan sky, the cathedral's soft blue-grey paint and sharp white trim give it an air of understated elegance.Built in the 19th century, this historic cathedral was destroyed by fire in 1966 and later lovingly rebuilt.
Our eyes are drawn upward to its striking silhouette, particularly the graceful onion-shaped dome rising above an eight-sided cupola that reflects the beauty of Russian OOrthodox architecture.
Stepping inside, we are transported into a world of reverence and wonder. The cathedral’s interior is adorned with a treasured collection of Russian religious art, including precious icons and fittings that once embellished the original church. Every detail seems to whisper a story of faith, devotion, and generations of worshippers who have gathered here.
Adding to the sense of awe are five display cases containing priceless treasures rescued from the devastating fire. These surviving artifacts offer a poignant connection to the cathedral’s past—a reminder of the beauty that endured even in the face of tremendous loss.
Standing within this extraordinary sanctuary, we feel a deep appreciation for the resilience of the people who preserved it. Once the heart of Russian Alaska’s capital, it remains a powerful symbol of Sitka’s fascinating past, where Russian traditions and Alaskan history intertwine.
Absolutely American
Behind the Cathedral, Close to the bay is the American Legion. It is the nation’s largest wartime veterans service organization
Absolutelt Tlingit: The largest ‘shed’
Almost at the cruise centre, along the waterfront is Harrigan Centennial Hall which hosts the Summer Music Festival. Earlier, as we walked the main street we observed food stalls set up in celebration. The building also houses the Sitka History Museum.
Winding up: looking up and down
Now it's time to take a look inside the library with its beautiful views of the bay and snow covered mountains. and then return to the cruise terminal to be entertained by a little violinist!
As we sail out we get to see O'Connell Bridge that connects Sitka with Japonski Island. During the Russian colonial period, the island was named after Japanese fishermen marooned there. During World War II, the U.S. Navy and Army built a seaplane base on the island.
Mount Edgecombe majestically dominates the scene.
There's more to cater to different interests
For animal lovers there's more to do in and around Sitka. The Sitka National Historical Park has forest trails lined with totem poles. There's also the Raptor Centre that rescues eagles, and Fortress of the Bear, a sanctuary for bears. Or you could just watch sea lions lounging on rocky shores.
The nickname, Paris of the Pacific, is Russian in origin, referring to the social life during their reign in the 1800s.
