Cont'd from Valetta, malta(1)
Zooming up
As soon as we get back to the city we go in search of the lift to return to the upper Barrakka Gardens. We purchase a return ticket at the machine. 25 secs is all it takes to ascend 58 m. The fleeting view through the window of the elevator as we rise is that of the harbour and Fort Angelo. While we wait for the evening gun salute we have the city to explore.
Roving the grid: from contentious times . . .
From the top we wander into stairs and ramps that lead us to different streets. Most are pedestrianised. The cross streets, some of which have steep gradients, often give us glimpses of the blue Mediterranean sea in the distance. Our wanderings through Republic Street and Old Bakery Street, to name just two, is enough to establish that the city is laid out as a grid.
It is neither boring nor overwhelming.
The first significant building we come across is intimidating not because of its appearance but because of its name and the associations that go with it: Inquisitor’s Palace. The very word Inquisition drags up images of brutal inquiry into heresy that led to harsh punishment. Wasn't Joan of Arc subject to the French Inquisition? The building is now only a museum but it is a reminder of the Holy Roman Inquisition that dominated Malta for over 224 years.
And then the gallariji: what stories do they tell of the era of the knights?
Ubiquitous to Valletta are the painted wooden Maltese balconies. They protrude over the narrow streets alongside small shrines, Baroque carvings and ornate façades, giving the city its Malteseness.
Are they merely decorative? Far from it. They served a dual purpose. They allowed the sea breeze and natural light in while keeping the heat or cold out. They doubled, especially for house-bound women, as a discreet window on the immediate world. Neighbours and passers by have been watched! What stories would these windows have spawned?
. . .to the joyous present
While crossing one of the streets a movement of festively dressed groups in the distance catches our attention and so we proceed towards it. A spectacle awaits us. Marching bands and groups dressed in period costume are milling about. They are getting ready for a parade. Nearby we hear music. We are at the entrance to the citadel at the ruins of the Royal Theatre, which has turned into an arena with a stage ready to host singers and musicians. We happen to be at the tail-end of Malta's national day celebrations.
The seat of power: from military power to a mere show
Right beside us is The Grandmaster’s Palace, formerly the seat of the Grand Master of the Knights of Malta. A walk into its courtyard and its entrance do not suggest what the knights were supposed to be: officially warrior monks who had sworn vows of poverty, obedience and chastity. Over time their organisation increasingly resembled a princely court.
The building then housed the Maltese Parliament before it moved to its purpose-built building near the entrance to the city. The palace now houses the Office of the President of Malta.
Our chosen path leads us into Republic Street which ends in St George's Square with its landmark Triton fountain.
History shaped by victors
At Triton fountain we are surrounded by the courthouse as well as civic and government buildings. A few metres away is the modern Parliament house. As we approach the broad staircase, with shallow steps leading along the side of the bastion we notice that it is a canvas and a runway for visitors' photographs!
Just as we are about to climb, a riderless three legged horse slows us in our tracks.
I find out that this is a contentious sculpture. It had been installed as part of a celebration just a few months before we visited. It has moved on. Not necessarily because the Maltese didn't quite take to it. The horse that symbolizes the impermanence of power, political critique, and how traditional history is shaped by victors rather than the vulnerable has been trotting the world!
As we ascend we have, on our other side, the austere Auberge de Castille which now houses the Office of the Prime Minister of Malta.
Co Cathedral
Further up is St John's Co-Cathedral. It is a major tourist attraction and therefore even with tickets there could be a long wait to go in. I'd rather read about the Cathedral. Our distant view shows an exterior that is unremarkable, stark and staid. But the interior is, according to my research, a gape-worthy display of Baroque decoration, with gold, paintings and coloured marble as well as two spectacular works by Caravaggio, especially his largest painting and his only signed work, the Beheading of Saint John the Baptist.
Why the ‘Co’ in its appellation? When Valletta replaced Mdina as Malta’s capital it shared its cathedral status with St Paul’s Cathedral in Mdina(referred to in my previous blog), which had previously served as Malta’s principal cathedral.
Monuments at the Gardens,
We are now free to explore the gardens atop Valletta’s historic bastions. In Hastings Garden, we encounter monuments that offer a glimpse into Malta’s history and its long journey towards self-government. In one we, we are reminded of Malta’s journey towards self-government. One monument represents the events of 7th June 1919, when protests over hardship and rising food prices turned violent, caused a turning point in Malta’s political history.
Nearby stands a replica of Les Gavroches (The Street Boys), inspired by Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables, symbolising the courage, hope and aspirations of youth.
Amid the gardens and magnificent views, these monuments remind us that Valletta’s beauty is intertwined with stories of struggle, sacrifice and the pursuit of freedom.
A salute to the past and present
It's close to 4pm. It's time for the gun salute that takes place twice a day. The earlier one was at noon. we place ourselves at the viewing terrace at the gardens with views of the Grand Harbour and Fort Angel below as well as the saluting Battery. I see two visitors , probably a father and son standing close to the soldier who is expected to fire the cannon. For a small admission fee (about €3 for adults) visitors can enter the battery platform for a close-up view. But you'll have to be prepared for the deafening sound!
Built in 1566 by the Order of St. John, the Saluting Battery is one of Valletta’s historic landmarks. It was built for defence and later used for ceremonial gun salutes. Today, it offers visitors a glimpse into Malta’s fascinating history.
Apparently the men operating the guns are all volunteers with a deep interest in history.
What purpose has this salute served apart from defence? Traditionally, ships in the harbour synchronised their clocks at the noon firing. At 4pm it was a signal that announced the closing of the gates. Now they also serve ceremonial purposes.
Underfoot and undercover
At the arched entrance to the saluting battery,underneath our feet, at the lower level of the bastion, lies the secret underground headquarters used by the Allies during the Second World War. For a fee visitors can see map rooms, communications equipment and underground passages lined with wartime bunks in what is known as the Lascaris War Rooms.
Packed in
Is it even possible? Valletta packs some 320 monuments into just 0.55 km²—grand churches, fortified walls, government buildings, underground wartime sites and a handsome waterfront are all packed into Malta’s UNESCO-listed capital. It is so compact that centuries of Mediterranean history can be explored on foot
To boot, In 2018 Valetta was named European Capital of Culture.
The complete package
As we leave Malta’s Grand Harbour, we enjoy wonderful views of its ancient fortifications, including Fort St. Elmo, Fort Angelo, Fort St. Michael, Fort Ricasoli, and Villa Bighi, as well as Kalkara village—all places we could explore on foot. The views we once enjoyed from atop the bastions now glide past us as we sail alongside the fortifications of the three peninsulas—Birgu, Senglea, and Cospicua—before passing between the lighthouses and heading out into the open Mediterranean.
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