Hoonah, Alaska: humbly dazzles

Weatherproof

We’re ready to disembark at Icy Strait Point. As though proving its name, it’s a cold, wet day, but we’re well prepared for whatever Alaska has in store. Why wish for sunshine when the weather is part of the experience? After all, isn’t this misty, rain-soaked landscape as much a part of Alaska’s character as its mountains, forests, and rugged coastline? We are dressed for it. 

A unique structure

The first surprise is the dock. Icy Strait Point, on Chichagof Island,is a unique port. The pier is not aligned with the shore. It is connected to it with pedestrian bridgeways starting with a steep ramp.  They are certainly built for the weather for they feature non-slippery floors, frequent lookout points and benches to rest on! It is no wonder when we find out that the pier was built by and run by cruiseliners.

‘Everything else to the right’ points the sign board

The moment we are off the ramp most passengers are heading toward the exploration centre with shops and ticket booths or to their shuttle buses for excursions. We are aware that the town of Hoonah is not too far away. A bus ride would only take about 5 minutes. Because of the rain and the chill it is a favourite mode of transport for the visitors. But we look forward to the experience of taking the board walk and then following a scenic paved path. The Hoonah Memorial Sea Walk is well-maintained and relatively flat.The breathtaking scenery presents spectacular views of the village, the towering forests and the  natural beauty of the bays and distant mountains. Even wild life. We see whales spouting in the distance and a blue heron waiting patiently on a jetty. A row of smart houses remind us that we are already in Hoonah. 30 mins is all it took.

What is this life if, full of care,

We have no time to stand and stare?"

From Leisure by William Henry Davies 

The whole area is peaceful and remote, deeply connected to nature. There are no grand historical buildings, elegant restaurants, attractive souvenir shops, or bustling shopping streets. Instead, we come across a small, unassuming store and, further up a gentle slope, an attractive blue-and-white church. Life moves at an unhurried pace, and for city dwellers accustomed to the hustle and bustle, the town might seem rather ordinary at first. Arguably, its charm lies precisely in its simplicity and tranquillity. Hoonah does not have to pressure itself to impress.  

Tradition meets nature

Hoonah is the principal village of the Huna Tlingit, the Indigenous people who originally settled in Glacier Bay. It is also the largest Tlingit village in Alaska. We take a look at a small shed that houses hand-built canoes in the making, while a colourful totem pole featuring the symbolic raven stands proudly nearby. The Tlingit people have a rich cultural heritage, reflected in their traditional craftsmanship, including the making of kayaks and intricately carved totem poles. These glimpses of local life offer a quiet insight into a community whose traditions remain closely intertwined with the natural world.

And then we trace our way back to the port enjoying more great views That's where all the tourists centred activity is. At the culture centre we watch the tail end of a Tlingit dance performance in their bold red and black traditional costumes. 

Fishing heritage

Nearby is an old cannery that closed in the 1950s and has since been transformed into a museum. 

The museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the region’s fishing and canning history. It features original salmon-processing machinery, vintage canning equipment, and historical displays that tell the story of the local seafood industry and its growth along the Alaskan coast.One of the most intriguing machines is called a guillotine—yes, you read that right! It was used to behead salmon. Since the fish came in different sizes, a worker had to position each one carefully beneath the blade to ensure that the head was cut off at exactly the right spot. Thankfully, no fresh salmon are being slaughtered here today!

The museum also highlights the rich cultural heritage of the Huna Tlingit people, whose lives and traditions have long been intertwined with the surrounding waters and the fishing industry.

A different but valid experience

Outside, overhead, there is a great deal of activity. Not  birds, not cable cars. Its suspended adventurous souls in harnesses whizzing through the air on zip lines. It's a soaring, exhilarating way to experience the landscape from above.

Watching them,I wonder what it must feel like to sail through the air, with the world spread out beneath you. We are content to stand back and observe, appreciating the excitement of others and reflecting on the experiences we choose. 

 Teased by symbolic gestures

But we are not done yet. As we leave the port more wild life emerges

There, perched at the very crown of a massive, weathered fir tree, sits a solitary bald eagle calling us to rise above challenges.

Just as we sail out we are scoffed by a literal giveaway of a whale's position, the spout. ‘Thar she blows,’ says Captain Ahab in Moby Dick, and the deckhands scramble into action to capture the giant. It is enough that it teases us by revealing its position and then immediately shows us the tail to bid us bon voyage. 

What we experience in Hoonah is the allure of the ordinary where beautiful nature and cultural roots twine together.

Trivia:

The guillotine machines that beheaded the salmon were referred to as iron chinks because they replaced the Chinese (chink) workers at the start of the 20th century.

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