Making the most of it
Having spent a few days exploring Hanoi, we decided to add a trip to Ha Long Bay to our itinerary. It had not been part of our original plan. The thought of a three-hour drive along the highway, followed by another long journey back to Hanoi in the evening, had not particularly appealed to us. But travel plans have a way of changing, especially when an opportunity presents itself.
In her we trust
We had made friends with the amiable, well-dressed proprietor of a hotel near our Airbnb apartment in the Old Quarter. We had noticed the brochures and tour pamphlets displayed at the reception, and since she speaks English, who better to approach for advice? After some thought and discussion, we settle on what we believe is the best option for us. The decision made, we look forward to our excursion, little knowing that our day would begin with a test of patience.
Test of Patience
The next morning, we returned to the hotel for our pickup, scheduled between 8:00 and 9:00 AM. We arrived early, only to find the doors still closed. For a moment, we wondered what to do. Fortunately, a man who had come to clean the windows let us in. At least we could sit comfortably while waiting for the van to arrive.
But the minutes passed, and there was no sign of either the van or anyone looking for us. Every now and then, we stepped outside and peered down the street, hoping to spot our ride approaching. Nothing! We tried to remain patient, reminding ourselves that the pickup window extended until nine. Still, a little doubt began to creep in. Had we been forgotten? Had there been some misunderstanding?
Just when we were beginning to wonder what to do next, an Asian man approached us. Could he be our guide, come to collect us at last? No! He, too, is waiting for the same tour. He turned out to be a businessman from China who had booked the trip independently. How calm he is! Reassuring, indeed. We were not the only ones waiting.
Better late than never
Eventually, the van arrived, already carrying several passengers. What a relief! We had not been forgotten after all. Among those on board were a Russian, a Japanese , and a few Indians. To our pleasant surprise, one of the Indian passengers was from our own alma mater. What a small world! Here we are, in Vietnam, embarking on a trip to Ha Long Bay, and we unexpectedly cross paths with someone who shares a connection with us.
Mystery clarified
As we settle into our seats, the tension of the morning dissolves. It soon becomes apparent that the driver had to collect passengers from hotels scattered across Hanoi. In a city where traffic is notoriously unpredictable, keeping to a strict schedule is perhaps easier said than done. What had seemed like an unnecessarily long wait is, after all, part of the practical realities of travelling with a group in a congested city.
Have we allowed ourselves to become a little anxious over something that was eventually resolved without any fuss? Arent we used to taking these small conveniences in our stride? Our much-anticipated journey to Ha Long Bay has begun, albeit later than expected. And perhaps that is one of the little lessons travel teaches us: things do not always happen when or how we expect them to. Sometimes, all we can do is wait, trust that things will work out, and learn to take these small inconveniences in our stride. After all, the day is still young, and Ha Long Bay is waiting for us
Focused on Halong
The hustle and bustle of the city streets fade into the tranquillity of the countryside. Cruising along a highway, the rural landscape whizzes past in a blur of green fields, scattered houses and glimpses of everyday village life. Passing Ninh Bình, a scenic province in northern Vietnam known as "Ha Long Bay on Land, skirting Hai Phong City, we press on towards our destination. Nearly three hours after setting off, we arrive at the marina.
A spectacle
Following closely behind our driver/guide, we make our way along an enormous, bustling wooden pier, weaving through a sea of tourists and tour groups. Everywhere we look, people are slipping into life jackets, getting ready to head out on smaller boats or kayaks. There is a palpable sense of excitement and activity as groups prepare to embark on their adventures.
Muddled?
We spot a large cruise boat and, assuming it is ours, eagerly make our way towards it. We are practically ready to board when, much to our surprise, our driver -cum -guide suddenly turns around and heads in the opposite direction! What happened? This isn't our boat after all. Ours is moored much further down the pier. So, off we go again, following our guide through the bustling crowd in search of our assigned cruise boat!
Nothing but spectacular
The grand entrance leads directly into the buffet area. So this is where we'll be having our lunch! But first the sightseeing. Unmoored, we sail across emerald-green waters surrounded by towering limestone karsts, the islands carved by the elements over centuries, topped by tropical forests. We weave between some of them and are rewarded with closer looks. The geographic formation is truly breathtaking. Chinese ink paint landscapes come alive!
Parking etiquette
As we near the island on which Surprise Cave( Sung SotCave) is, we can't help but be shocked by the traffic jam. So many ships have to dock in a small space. Our's politely waits for the boat before us to back out and then skillfully nudge between two others. After we have disembarked it reverses to make way for another. On land, it is worse still with tourists eager for a swim. We join the line to climb the 100 steps up into the Cave opening. Not so crowded here. We can explore the Cave at leisure before returning to our boat for lunch.
Extraordinary hidden world
The name Surprise Cave , given by the French when they discovered it, is apt. The relatively narrow entrance and the rough cut steps down open into what could have been mistaken for an amphitheatre with nature's own chandeliers and tiered seating, the stalactites and stalagmites. A paved pathway and some tricky steps in awkward turns leads us into an immense vaulted chamber, populated with uncanny rock formations that could easily be associated with legendary figures, animals, etc. All give rise to a mysterious aura. The next area is even more wondrous in that it has unique sculpted shapes. The whole resembles an enchanted garden.
More steps to negotiate with care and there we are on a viewing platform with a breathtaking vista of the bay. We are convinced, once again, that nothing can beat the artistry of nature.
Hidden Gem
Our guide awaits us at the bottom. We are shepherded to a smaller pier where we asked to don life jackets and then board a bamboo boat that seats 15. The navigator uses poles to get the boat moving. And where does he take us? Another cave! We are sailing through a dark tunnel. That are shrieks from other boats and kayaks around us. Amazing that the design of the boat allows it to navigate the narrow passage. The light at the end of the tunnel opens up an astonishing panoramic. We are floating on a hidden tranquil emerald green lagoon! WE have actually come through Luon Caves and uncover the hidden beauty of the bay. To add to the thrill our boatman shakes the boat and rows in such a way that it tilts, amping up the thrill.
Buffetted at the Buffet
As we return to our cruise boat. After nearly a kilometre of trekking through the caves, and the excitement on the water, our tummies are beginning to growl, and thoughts of food take precedence over scenery.
How punctual our boat is! We board and make our way to the restaurant, where we find plenty of empty seats. The place seems almost deserted. Food is just being laid out along the aisle. Surely, we have arrived at just the right moment!
But suddenly, all hell breaks loose. Like a swarm of locusts descending upon a field, two large groups descend upon the buffet. In a frenzy of activity, they noisily drag chairs, call out to friends, stake their claims on tables, swoop down on the tureens and pile their plates with food at astonishing speed. We watch, stunned, as the peaceful restaurant transforms into a scene of organised chaos.
Will they leave anything for those of us who have chosen to be courteous and wait our turn?
We wait. And wait. The queue barely moves, and there isn't a gap in sight. Then I spot our Chinese gentleman deftly wedging himself between two seasoned buffet-goers and emerging with a generously loaded plate. He turns, spots me still rooted to the spot, my disbelief written all over my face, and tries to nudge the women aside to make room for me.
But alas, I'm not quick enough to seize the opportunity.
Will there be anything left for us by the time we get our turn? Suffice it to say, the food refills also disappeared as quickly with a few pickings left for us. Personally, it is the behaviour that unsettles us more than the food for we do not binge on sea food.
Time to relax.
Many of our fellow travellers have opted to climb the hill that is Ti Top island for its panoramic viewpoints. It looks steep. We are waiting for the sun set but without much hope. We have had drizzles every now and then and now a mist has arisen. Still the open deck is inviting with its deck chairs and all. The cool breeze brushes by. We enjoy the views when the clouds separate and people watch, including those clampering to swim along the short and narrow sandy beach.
Our climbers return. It is hard, not only because where there are steps they are slippery but also because the unpaved paths with steep inclines did not seem worthy of the effort.
And just as the sun is about to set the sky clears and we are rewarded with the sun setting behind Ti Top mountain.
Vibes of the city
Ha Long city's neon lights and that of Bay Cai Bridge shimmer on the waters as we make our return journey. Our van is unable to drop us at our pick up point in Hanoi because the approach street has been pedestrianised for the weekend! We are in the thick of things as we wade through the throngs. Saturday is pedestrian zone day!
Bitter-sweet
As much as we enjoyed the adventure, what bothered us most was the sheer scale of mass tourism. Granted, the Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and its breathtaking beauty is bound to draw visitors from all over the world. But the consequences are hard to ignore. Hundreds of boats ply its waters, polluting both the air and the sea. I am not exaggerating when I say that, even with the engines switched off while we were moored, the fumes around us were unmistakable.We cannot help but wonder about the sheer volume of garbage generated by these large floating restaurants.
We console ourselves with the thought that, at least, we are only here for the day thereby keeping our carbon footprint somewhat lower, albeit by a negligible margin in the grand scheme of things.
Such extraordinary natural beauty deserves to be experienced, yet one wonders at what cost. Still, despite these reservations, we came away grateful for the experience, deeply impressed by the Bay's splendour and satisfied that we had witnessed something truly remarkable.
Fun fact:
The bamboo boat is a common mode of transportation. The smaller boat is chiefly for moving people while the larger one is used to convey goods, and even an entire house!
Pearl factory:
As all tour agencies do, there is the obligatory visit to a pearl farm.
Admittedly it is one of the best demonstrations I have seen in Asia.
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